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West Kirby Town: narrow gauge may be coming to town.


Dmudriver
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Rod

 

In Chaz' Dock Green thread, he's talking about using a relay to provide frog polarity switching in a similar circumstance to yours, that up is that the. Tortoise is difficult of access.

 

Might be easier (if more expensive) than the u-switch.

 

HTH

Simon

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Rod

 

In Chaz' Dock Green thread, he's talking about using a relay to provide frog polarity switching in a similar circumstance to yours, that up is that the. Tortoise is difficult of access.

 

Might be easier (if more expensive) than the u-switch.

 

HTH

Simon

Hi Simon.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I follow Chaz's thread and had seen he's planning to use a relay. I've also just seen his wiring diagram. However, as I've got this switch, I'll use it and see how it goes. I hope the point hand levers will hide them eventually.

 

Rod

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Re frog juicers.

 

I've not come across them before though I've had a quick look at Simon's link. I haven't read it in depth but I'm not sure about the logic of the frog changing polarity but the point blade not changing. It would certainly lead to derailments with Tortoise motors. On my layout if something does short because of a point not changed, it doesn't take a lot of working out where to find it as there's no more than 2 trains moving at a time. I think for the moment I'll stick to my microswitch but thanks for the suggestions.

 

Rod

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???????? What's the link meant to be, Simon? I just get gobbledygook. Or am I missing something?Rod

The link works fine for me, and I certainly would not want to get my hand caught in it !

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For those who can't see the link, it is a whopping great steam hammer (and I do mean "whopping") (and it works for me, here & now - though the first link I posted & subsequently edited, was "odd")

 

And tho' it rather strains the joke, my point (sorry) was that an electronic frog juicer would be serious overkill (and expensive) for one Tortoise where the switch doesn't do what it should for whatever reason.

 

Sorry for the confusion

Simon

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For those who can't see the link, it is a whopping great steam hammer (and I do mean "whopping") (and it works for me, here & now - though the first link I posted & subsequently edited, was "odd")

 

And tho' it rather strains the joke, my point (sorry) was that an electronic frog juicer would be serious overkill (and expensive) for one Tortoise where the switch doesn't do what it should for whatever reason.

 

Sorry for the confusion

Simon

For those who can't see the link, it is a whopping great steam hammer (and I do mean "whopping") (and it works for me, here & now - though the first link I posted & subsequently edited, was "odd")

 

And tho' it rather strains the joke, my point (sorry) was that an electronic frog juicer would be serious overkill (and expensive) for one Tortoise where the switch doesn't do what it should for whatever reason.

 

Sorry for the confusion

Simon

Hi Simon.

 

Curiously, I could open the link on my Hudl, but it still won't do it on my laptop!! But at least I've seen what you mean and I do agree a frog juicer would be overkill in this situation.

 

Rod

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Hi Simon.

 

Funny enough, I've just been teaching my 7- and 4-year old grandkids how to drive locos using DCC. They operated the point and signal switches (on my instructions) but the meaning of signals is a bit advanced for them yet. Maybe session 3?!!

 

Actually, the 7-year old shows some promise: the 4-year old was doing it because she wanted to be like her brother!!! And, ...... there was no running through points!!

 

Rod

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Why so? You can have them in singles, or multiples.

Why not go the whole hog and replace all the micro switches etc with juicers? Then drive to the signals or hand signals...?

Thanks, Simon, but no - it works fine as it is!! I'm not looking for extra work - I've enough to do as it is!!!

 

Rod

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I've decided to go down the Hex Frog Juicer for Talyllyn, well just one of them on the main junction, I will be using the frog switch on the Cobalts for the crossovers and the turnout at the tunnel.

I've only chose this to simplify the 3 frogs on the 3-way and the two on the slip.

 

I'm looking at signalling at the moment. I will have them built but I'm considering working routes with the turnouts. It should be reasonably straight forward as there were only a few routes through the station.

 

Jinty ;)

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Hi all.

 

After a frustrating few hours with a playing-up computer, it's now settled itself so I can comment on what I've been doing. First, I've laid the ballast over the areas I said needed it last time. They've been glued with dilute PVA and are now ready for weathering. Pics:

 

post-7571-0-54111800-1438466455_thumb.jpg

 

post-7571-0-00482700-1438466480_thumb.jpg

 

As the scenery bug has now grabbed hold of me, my thoughts turned to the outside section. At first this was going to be a part of a golf course, but in a depth of just a few inches, I didn't really think it possible. (The line from West Kirby to Hoylake runs alongside the golf course). So the plan is to have a tee cameo, with golfers driving off down a fairway behind trees alongside the line.

 

The outside area needed tidying up a bit first - there were wires all over the place - cue pics:

 

post-7571-0-44238000-1438466520_thumb.jpg

 

post-7571-0-93988400-1438466545_thumb.jpg

 

I bought some 16mm square conduit on Friday so fitted that tonight and, I must say, the effect is quite remarkable. Cue more pics:

 

post-7571-0-63132000-1438466586_thumb.jpg

 

post-7571-0-35847200-1438466593_thumb.jpg

 

So much tidier!! I'll box in the signal control unit and associated wiring and that section behind the tracks will then be all trees - making sure I don't obscure the signal!!

 

The other end, at the shed wall, is where the tee will be. The remaining wiring will be hidden behind a curved backscene and the tee will roughly take up the space up to just beyond the blue and purple wires.

 

The black insulating tape covers a couple of pieces of chocolate block which join the bus bars and wouldn't fit into the conduit. The top wires now need boxing in, too and I think I'll fix those below the top wooden strip.

 

I was a bit nervous about electrical interference with all the wires being jammed in together but I tried a loco up and down, using the signals, changing points and running on all the fiddle yard roads and everything seemed OK. I only thought later I should have turned the sound on, too, but I'll try that tomorrow.

 

So, more progress - oh, and by the way, the papier mache is much drier than it was: still not all dry, but getting there!!

 

More soon.

 

Rod

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Evening Rod, some nice tidy house keeping there, and the signals & ballasting look good, have you thought any more about you extra storage lines ?

 

Best regards

Craig.

Hi Craig.

 

Yes, I have, but I'm not going to alter anything. I'm sticking to taking surplus stock off the layout.

 

Rod

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Rod

If I may, your signal lights seem just a little too brilliant....

Might be better if a little dimmer?

Best

Simon

I agree, they doo look a bit bright and I built the things! I maybe should have used a higher value resistor but to be fair digital photography does accentuate the brightness a lot. As I don't bother masking the lamps when I spray them white any more now possibly a blob of white or cream paint on the lens would calm things if necessary.

JF

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