RMweb Premium Crepello Posted April 8, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2012 I thought it best to start a new topic rather than continue under the Presflos heading. Good news is that the 10 feet chassis vans appear to be an easy job; I've fitted the American couplings to the 12t ventilated van with planked sides and plywood doors; I think it's safe to assume all the other 10 feet vans have an identical chassis and coupling fixings; of course the imminent GN type have a new chassis so I'll report on these when Hattons oblige. So, to summarise, success has been achieved on the Presflos, conflats, LNER-style brakes, HAAs (Minitrix as well), wooden opens including coke wagon and 14t tankers. Success has evaded me so far on all the 9 feet chassis mineral types. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I must confess that to close gaps I've tended to run Farish wagons in fixed rakes coupled by hook and loop couplings, preferably attached through holes drilled in the existing coupler pockets. Having now gone from a large group layout with a long close-coupled rake of presflos to a pair of smaller projects where presflos are inappropriate I'm rather glad I did, as returning them to near original state has at least allowed me to box up those that came in boxes and get a half-decent price for them. However this is only good for trains that spend their life on the roundy-roundy parts of the layouts concerned....... All the very best Les Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted April 9, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2012 I must confess that to close gaps I've tended to run Farish wagons in fixed rakes coupled by hook and loop couplings, preferably attached through holes drilled in the existing coupler pockets. Having now gone from a large group layout with a long close-coupled rake of presflos to a pair of smaller projects where presflos are inappropriate I'm rather glad I did, as returning them to near original state has at least allowed me to box up those that came in boxes and get a half-decent price for them. However this is only good for trains that spend their life on the roundy-roundy parts of the layouts concerned....... All the very best Les Hi Les, My method is totally reversible, providing you keep the original rapidos. Regards, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 "American couplings"- do you mean MT1015? All the best Les Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted April 10, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10, 2012 I think he is refering to the Bachmann non-automatic knuckle couplings that fit into a rapido mount. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted April 10, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10, 2012 I'm referring to American Bachmann dummy knuckle couplers (item 42532) which replace rapidos in 'plug-in' mountings. They are obsolete but I tracked some down at Trainworld in new York. Pity British Bachmann don't offer these as an alternative, like they do with the short NEMs. You'll see my photos under the 'Farish Presflos' thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygif Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 I couldn't find any 42532's so went with the variety pack 42531's. Through packet says 3 pairs long, medium and short only 2 of the pairs are T shanks though last one just has a small hole at the end of the shanks. Seem to work quite well for close coupling mk2s, when one of each of the t shanks are used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygif Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 it was all going so well till i added some of the old mk2s, the short T shanks couplers barely shows past the end of the coach. They can be made to couple but don't do corners at all well. Changed to longs all round which still gives a closer coupling than the original rapidos. Long to short might work better on my bufferless mk3s in the hst, this will have to wait till i get some more free time from she who must be obeyed todo list. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted April 23, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 23, 2012 I can now add the Farish original Freightliner flats to the list of successes--a very easy job to fit the 42532s, unless the bogies are marked 'CP1413' when it seems impossible; they'll give you that critical extra centimetre or two per train to fit in that loop or siding. Still to experiment further with the minerals--removing the body first may be the answer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted May 7, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 7, 2012 Success with one mineral at last! The secret is indeed to remove the wheelsets and body first; I also painted the front of the door banger white before removing the body to assist with re-fitting it in the right manner. The coupling housings can then be removed quite easily by pushing them out from the chassis top with a small screwdriver. Once the spring and new coupling are inserted, the housing can be wiggled back into position and the body refitted; this must be done very carefully to avoid any distortion of the coupling housing 'legs'; the door bangers can be replaced before the screws are re-tightened. I should mention that one of my previous mineral failures had an impossible-to-remove screw possibly due to glue used to hold the weight in position. I should also mention another failure--with a Dapol gunpowder van used as a test-bed for the Dogfish--you have been warned! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 As well as the Bachmann couplings, the similar Red Caboose/Unimate T-shank couplers can be used for fixed rakes (unfortunately they are out of production, but packs do turn up). Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygif Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 it was all going so well till i added some of the old mk2s, the short T shanks couplers barely shows past the end of the coach. They can be made to couple but don't do corners at all well. Changed to longs all round which still gives a closer coupling than the original rapidos. Long to short might work better on my bufferless mk3s in the hst, this will have to wait till i get some more free time from she who must be obeyed todo list. I've actually finished one HST set, using the short couplings from 42531 triple back, and they work really well. Very close coupling. I've got a lengthy post on the NGauge forum about my exploits with various coupling systems. http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=5355.msg60167#msg60167 wish the bulk packs of the 42532's were still available. will just have to make do buying up the remaining stocks of 42531's instead..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaneofFife Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 those switchbacks really dont suit Mk3 vehicles. the lateral overhang is huge with the gangways running out of line although the close coupling set up does work. would look much better with large radius points. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted May 19, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 19, 2012 Another addition to the ''success list'' :-- the new Steel Opens! It might be wise to keep a Rapido at one end of these as they're ideal as barrier wagons for low-flashpoint tankers (the early 14 tonners and the later TTAs). Also the 'Eastern' vans are ok too. Both these models are more fiddly than other 10ft chassis type due to the wheelset retainers or whatever they're called. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted October 31, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2012 Just a conclusion to this thread--from me anyway; I've given up on the 9ft chassis mineral types--only the one success and a couple more ruined this morning! Although it's easy to remove the coupling housings by pushing the pegs out from the exposed top of the chassis, it's just too difficult to get them back! Life is too short to pursue close-coupling with these any more--a pity, as they're superb models and the 42532s are such a neat solution. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted November 12, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 12, 2012 I have now close-coupled my rake of TTAs; I found the alternative short/long NEM rapidos led to a dog's breakfast in the Eastbury Loops marshalling/fiddle yard (code 55 small-radius points) so the Dapol NEM buckeyes (supplied with locos and rolling stock) were substituted--result was buffers close but not touching and the perfect solution. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygif Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 I've mentioned this site on the Ngauge forum, so i thought i better mention it here too. http://www.peho-kkk.de they've got some nice NEM pockets and close coupling system for N gauge/scale/spur/spoor. I'm trialing a pair at the moment, nice use of a small super magnet and tiny ball bearing for the self centering rather than using a spring. Downside is of course just like the new Dapol NEM pocket solution, you have to hack off the existing pockets. Not tried this yet for boggie stock, but i wonder what would happen if i turn the boggie 180 degs after removal of the coupling hook, will the remaining pocket foul up the running Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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