mattog Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 I seem to have no problem creating slightly aged concrete, but the pale, bone coloured concrete of the Southern lineside huts has me beat. I don't have access to modelling paints other than humbrol and Tamiya so have been playing around with these a bit. I start with a spray of tamiya grey primer, sprinkle with talc, dust off then prime again. This gives me a great texture but from here dunno what to do other than the usual dirty wash. Like I say, I get good results with this but not the one i'm after. Any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattog Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 I don't know if this is the sort of effect you are after - but this is Humbrol concrete (!!) colour, dry-brushed with a sort of grey/green and then talc applied and blown off..... Nice, unfortunately Humbrol 95 Concrete has long been discontinued! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 If you can get hold of Plastikote Suede Touch (Tan) it does a fine job - http://www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Product/pcode---4669/pccode---3620 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattog Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 If you can get hold of Plastikote Suede Touch (Tan) it does a fine job - http://www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Product/pcode---4669/pccode---3620 I'm hoping it's available here in Australia. Everyone raves about it. Any Australians here that know where I can get it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted April 9, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2012 Your base preparation sounds good and should give you a similar surface to the Plastickote Suede mentioned above. For a Skytrex concrete hut that I've been painting for Somerset Lane (see link below my signature - thou no pics of it there yet), I've been over painting with Tamiya acrylics - White/Medium Grey/Buff in roughly 3:2:1 ratio (where's Dusty Bin?). I put all three colours on a palette and mix as I go to get some variation. It is very easy to get it too dark so keep the white content up over 50%. I've been trying to emulate the finish on stuatp's shed http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/4428-portwilliam-a-port-road-twig-in-the-1960s/page__st__75 but not got it as good..............yet. Try it on a piece of scrap plasticard first and see what you think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattog Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Your base preparation sounds good and should give you a similar surface to the Plastickote Suede mentioned above. For a Skytrex concrete hut that I've been painting for Somerset Lane (see link below my signature - thou no pics of it there yet), I've been over painting with Tamiya acrylics - White/Medium Grey/Buff in roughly 3:2:1 ratio (where's Dusty Bin?). I put all three colours on a palette and mix as I go to get some variation. It is very easy to get it too dark so keep the white content up over 50%. I've been trying to emulate the finish on stuatp's shed http://www.rmweb.co....0s/page__st__75 but not got it as good..............yet. Try it on a piece of scrap plasticard first and see what you think. This sounds pretty good to me and your reference is spot on. I'll stock up on the Tamiyas and give it a go. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruciethefish Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 The thing that really gives these huts their typical look are not only a certain amount of exposed aggregate in the concrete, but also the mosses & lichens that quickly colonise concrete surfaces. To get this effect, paint a fairly pale grey basecoat, then get an old, stiff toothbrush, and a pallette of brownish green, grey-green, pale green, orangey & brownish yellow paints. Place your project on a sheet of newspaper, get some of your paint on the toothbrush, aim it at the job about 12"/30cm away, & pull a ruler or similar towards you through the bristles. This will flick tiny splatters of paint onto the surfaces (make sure you turn the job, & remember that the side facing North will be a bit greener than the rest) Work your way through each colour in turn until you get an effect that you're happy with. Remember that a comparatively new structure will only have a light coating of small colonies, while older ones will have quite large patches in some places, as well as higher plants such as stonecrops and wind-borne weeds growing from joints.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gresh Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 If you want the colour and texture of concrete the best (in my opinion) is this, paint your object in watered down pva glue and sprinkle cement onto it. This may sound barmy but it really works. I bought a small 1kg bag of cement NOT the premixed stuff with sand in, painted some pieces of card with it and sprinked the cement over and allowed to dry. It looks EXACTLY like concrete! Ive done a wooden diesel depot with it and it looks brilliant. Beware though I wouldnt use it outside on a garden layout though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Hi Mattdog I too use plasticote suede - heres a pic of how it looks (after weathering) HTH Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretsquirrel Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I can vouch for the Plasticote suede, it's a good concrete colour and takes weathering powders and dry brushing a treat. Perfect for a SR hut- of which I have done a few using this method, very quick, easy and gives a great effect! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattog Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Damn. Suede is the one paint Plastikote don't have here in Australia. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted April 23, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 23, 2012 I have had some success with the paints from Games Workshop (usual disclaimer) once I learnt to 'see through' their colour naming scheme. For a concrete finish on styrene I brushed one coat of ‘Dheneb Stone’ (foundation paint), followed by a layer of ‘Bleached Bone’ dry brushed on top, and was very pleased with the result. This was for an inspection pit ... I am not sure whether the 'bone' in the name of the paint is relevant to the colour of the Southern lineside huts. GW show a presence in Australia on their web site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Damn. Suede is the one paint Plastikote don't have here in Australia. The main site says they do distribute to Australia, I would re-check at that end and email the main company to confirm. Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaneofFife Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 try Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan acrylic - i find it superb if very toxic and smelly........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rivercider Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 As Bruciethefish has said, lichen takes a liking to concrete. Here are a couple a of pictures I took at Whimple on 23rd Feb this year, I think this little hut is a product of Exmouth Junction Concrete Works. Pictures taken at Whimple, 23/2/12 cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 As well as the Tan Suede paint, another method that I find works really well is one that Chris Nevard uses. Spray a base coat of grey primer, then using black, brown and white sprays give a light dusting of each from a distance so that the paint lands on the object in bigger globules, it takes a few practice goes on some scrap to get the hang of it and which colours need more spray but once done and with a bit of weathering looks good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Celticwardog Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Ah concrete. Some great tips but thought I would share my method. Checks pics, rather harsh close ups but the very hut (I think) you are referring to but after years of neglect. 1) prime and add texture if you feel it is needed (suede coat as Andy R does work, as does dusting with talc and oddly even flour). 2) base cost of either humbrol enamel 84 (probably the best concrete colour as it has a greenish tinge) or humbrol acrylic 94. 3) high contrast dry brushing of which ever colour you have used but with white added. I find a more than usual amount added and while you dry brush the raised areas you also need to "stab" flat areas to create colour variation. it will look a bit odd but gets toned down. This must be allowed to be totally dry. 4) now, a black/green wash of ENAMEL (acrylic dries too quickly for this) is applied all over the whole thing. You then wait until its "visually dry, around 1/2 hour. I say visually cos it wont be dry at at all. Then take a brush that is moistened with spirit/thinners and begin to manipulate the wash and take it off in some areas. I call this wet brushing and is very effective. I simple stab will take off some of the applied wash and instantly add age and interest. Another affect as to intro duce some kind of particulate effect now. Talc and flour. Particles will attract the wash and add further interest. If it hasnt worked the wash will come off with spirit soaked bruch and you can try again. 5) any further aging can be applied after it is actually dry. Hope this makes sense. I find the black/gey/white from a distance does work but only works for the type of concrete where you can still see the aggregete it was made from, say on a concrete post and some floors. this is not always the case (as in the substation and the hut) so isnt always relevant, in my humble opinion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Williams Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Humbrol 84 is marked as 'Mid Stone Matt' and the colour swache shows it as a very definite brown with a hint of Olive. Is that the correct colour as it looks much too dark compared with your first photograph, even accounting for subsequent washes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Celticwardog Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Humbrol 84 is marked as 'Mid Stone Matt' and the colour swache shows it as a very definite brown with a hint of Olive. Is that the correct colour as it looks much too dark compared with your first photograph, even accounting for subsequent washes? Yep definately the right colour. As I said though this is followed by high contrast dry brushing i.e. the 84 again with a lot of white added. I don't have any pictures of this at this stage but it a lot brighter thatn you might think. Working on something now. Discovered I had run out of 84 so used 187, Very similar and worked just as well. Just so you know so this didnt look boring I have used 3 colours for 3 different types on concrete. The 187 on the main upright things, acrylic 94 on the small pedastal things and the ground was first "stab" brushed with acrylic 64 (don't know what else to call it lol) and then enamel 121. Whole thing washed and maniplulated as described, then touches on model mates green and rust on the exposed break. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Williams Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Thanks for the clarification. I did contact Humbrol some time ago and suggested that they may consider re-introducing their concrete colour as an aerosol. Personally, I think it would be a winner as when painting something a concrete colour, it is very often a decent area to be covered such as a retaining wall or an entire bridge. Previously, I have used the Plastikote suede. With it having a slight texture to it, I find it does take washes very well as they leach over the texture nicely. I have also considered using the Plastikote as a base and then using Dulux matchpots as they do such a range and a number look very 'concretey'. Haven't experimented yet though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Celticwardog Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Yes sounds good idea, and with matchpots being so cheap good money saver too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Celticwardog Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Complete (well, this bit). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumblestripe Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 On the subject of applying lichen spots to concrete, you should be aware that lichen does not colonise an exposed surface for between twenty and thirty years (or more accurately, it does, but it does not start to grow during that period) it then grows at approximately 0.5mm per annum, then slows down after about a century or so. It varies between species of lichen but this technique (lichenometry) is used in archaeology and other disciplines to date material of otherwise indeterminable age. In other words if you are modelling a structure that is less than thirty years old - no lichen spots! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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