RAY NORWOOD Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 That is looking fantastic George. I us Halfords gray eched primer 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 58 minutes ago, RAY NORWOOD said: That is looking fantastic George. I us Halfords gray eched primer lovely stuff Ray, OO or O dries quick and looks good every time... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted August 15, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2020 I've really enjoyed catching up with your thread, George. Cracking stuff as always. Best wishes, Nick. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Brinkly said: I've really enjoyed catching up with your thread, George. Cracking stuff as always. Best wishes, Nick. Thanks very much Nick, Welcome aboard... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted August 15, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2020 Looks stunning George! Halfords grey primer works a treat in my experience. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 3 hours ago, mudmagnet said: Looks stunning George! Halfords grey primer works a treat in my experience. The red primer is great too.. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PeterBB Posted August 15, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2020 Looks like my next primer will be Halfords! Have been having a bit of a time with grey primers so thanks al of you. Peter 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 (edited) On 15/08/2020 at 21:22, PeterBB said: Looks like my next primer will be Halfords! Have been having a bit of a time with grey primers so thanks al of you. Peter You wont go wrong with Halfords primer Peter, promise... Edited August 19, 2020 by georgeT 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 Getting on with the chassis starting with the plunger pick-up from JPL, then fit all the wires to a pick-up board on top of the chassis.. 10 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 WHY oh WHY did l use such a thick gauge wire on the plungers ???? so l have replaced the lot with a lower gauge wire, much better.. 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted August 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2020 Absolutely right George, the springs are quite low force! Discovered same on my 4mm efforts! Kind regards, Richard B 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Major Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 (edited) George, I see what you mean about the wire. Another potential issue is that the wires being soldered in to the ends of the plungers and lying "straight on" means the two wires will interfere with each others movements. My approach would to bend the wire at 90 degrees at the point that they meet the plunger. The route them back parallel to the underside of the chassis towards the wire holding the brakes then bend at 90 degrees down towards the other holes which are either side of the fixing nut. This will give a sort of swinging arm effect that will offer the least resistance to the plunger movement and avoid the wires interfering with each other. I use Slater's plungers which use a little tag on the end of the wire which itself is held on by two nuts. This arrangement automatically gives the first bend mentioned above. The down side to the Slater's version is they are a faff to assemble plus the tag needs insulating else it is liable to short to adjacent parts of the chassis. The type you are using are much neater. What make are they by the way? Keep up the good work. Ian. Edited August 23, 2020 by Ian Major 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 1 hour ago, georgeT said: WHY oh WHY did l use such a thick gauge wire on the plungers Now I was going to mention that, George, but I didn't wish to sound critical. I use old transformer wire that is insulated with shelac/varnish; it is very thin, easy to work with and rather unobtrusive. In fact it, need be no thicker than the wire in the motor armature windings. I use 24swg (0.02" 0.56 mm in diameter) but it's not critical. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 11 minutes ago, Isambarduk said: Now I was going to mention that, George, but I didn't wish to sound critical. I use old transformer wire that is insulated with shelac/varnish; it is very thin, easy to work with and rather unobtrusive. In fact it, need be no thicker than the wire in the motor armature windings. I use 24swg (0.02" 0.56 mm in diameter) but it's not critical. David Hello David, Good tip with the wire you use l will try to obtain some, Thanks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 58 minutes ago, Ian Major said: George, I see what you mean about the wire. Another potential issue is that the wires being soldered in to the ends of the plungers and lying "straight on" means the two wires will interfere with each others movements. My approach would to bend the wire at 90 degrees at the point that they meet the plunger. The route them back parallel to the underside of the chassis towards the wire holding the brakes then bend at 90 degrees down towards the other holes which are either side of the fixing nut. This will give a sort of swinging arm effect that will offer the least resistance to the plunger movement and avoid the wires interfering with each other. I use Slater's plungers which use a little tag on the end of the wire which itself is held on by two nuts. This arrangement automatically gives the first bend mentioned above. The down side to the Slater's version is they are a faff to assemble plus the tag needs insulating else it is liable to short to adjacent parts of the chassis. The type you are using are much neater. What make are they by the way? Keep up the good work. Ian. Hello Ian, l don't know why l used the thick wire, l was plodding along happily before l realised, also the thick stuff inhibited the movement of the plungers some what, still its sorted out now and the plungers work much better, take care... (the plungers are from Dave at JPL he sells them at £1.35 each)... 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Now l have replaced the thick wires with a smaller gauge wire, they work perfectly now.. 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 That looks neater George. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Andrew P said: That looks neater George. Thanks Andy, The plungers have very light springs, l don't know what l was thinking about (Hahahaha), but got there in the end. thanks for the helpful pointers guys... Edited August 24, 2020 by georgeT 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Major Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 8 minutes ago, georgeT said: ..., l don't know what l was thinking about .... George, You will have to be like me. I gave up thinking, it hurts too much! That wiring with those plungers looks good. Ian. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Hello lan, l know just what you mean, thinking really hurts these days, l have been building loco / stock kits for years like yourself, and l always use plastic brake blocks glued to the hangars to ease the shorting problem, works great, but did l do it on the N class ?, NOOOOO Hahahahaha. Stay safe buddy. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 (edited) This might be of interest to some modellers, its a JLTRT model of 10001 kit being built by Mark Owen, a friend who has asked me to help out in mainly in the painting and over see what he is doing, all l have done so far is some grey priming, he has done the rest, and a nice job he has done so far.. Edited August 26, 2020 by georgeT 14 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) Having a little break from the N Class for little a while, and have started a very old kit l bought cheap a while back, and that is a ex GWR 2251 by Jim Harris (Acorn) / Alan Bullock (Javelin) many moons ago, unfortunately there are no instructions to follow, so should be fun. Edited September 9, 2020 by georgeT 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 26 minutes ago, georgeT said: Having a little break from the N Class for little a while, and have started a very old kit l bought cheap a while back, and that is a ex GWR 2225 by Jim Harris (Acorn) / Alan Bullock (Javelin) many moons ago, unfortunately there are no instructions to follow, so should be fun. You'll need loads of reference pics then mate, Good luck with that. What could possibly go wrong? haha 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 What in deed ? Hahahaha 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Major Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) George, I am looking forward very much to this build. I don't recognize a 2225 class. Is it a Collett 0-6-0 tender engine? If so it will be a 2251 class which will make a lovely model. It should be very sale-able as well since they were very versatile - they were used for local passenger, light goods and banking. So it would easily fit in to most small or large GW layouts. 2225 was one of these but does not appear in my 1960 Combined ABC book. I you wanted to you could go to town with the tender. Some had ex Aberdare tenders. One of the Worcester 2251s had the tender from a withdrawn Robinson ROD 2-8-0. Only 3205 has made it to preservation. My Mother loved railways and enjoyed riding on the Glous & Warks Railway and was keen to have a trip on it when the line was extended to Cheltenham Racecourse. She was not well at the time so I took her ASAP for a trip along the line. The engine that pulled us on that occasion was 3205. She died a few weeks later. Hence I have a particular affection for that loco! Ian. Edited September 9, 2020 by Ian Major 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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