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Modelling Spam Cans (Bulleid Pacifics)


roundhouse
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There seems to be a fair amount of interest in these locos in a number of different topics so thought it might be worth while opening a thread for photos of models of these for anyone to post. Lets see if between interested RM webbers if we can get at least one photo of each member of both the light Pacifics and Merchant Navy classes in model form.

To start off here are a few of mine unrebuilts - not the best of shots as taken a few years ago but hope to post some newer shots in the near future:

34007 Bude - This used the Hornby model of Bude in British Railways ex Southern malachite green with the LMS tender which was swapped for the correct cut down Bulleid tender. This has had the Hornby split ash pan replaced with Albert Goodhall cast white metal ones (now available through RT Models)
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34019 Bideford - Modified from a Hornby WIlton with new nameplates. This one laso has the ashpan replaced.
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34033 Chard - Another ex Hornby WIlton. This one has since had the drain off pipework added and weathered.


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All have been fitted with decoders


Ian

Edited by roundhouse
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Oh Ian, this could become a long thread...

 

Here are a few of my West Countries for starters, see if you can spot the differences

 

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BoB's and MNs may follow in due course...

Edited by Graham_Muz
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Ian

 

With the exception of 21c121 (which is a Margate version with a Crownline detailing kit, just noticed one set of pipes is missing) all my cylinder drain pipes are from RT Models. I have also now have a box of his latest lost wax brass front steps at home awaiting painting and fitting to replace the Hornby plastic ones.

Edited by Graham_Muz
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Thanks Ian

 

I have a couple more light pacifics not yet photographed and two more Merchant Navy's on the workbench, one of which will be finished in war time black livery.

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Hi Graham,

 

Have you not thought about doing one of your Merchant Navy's in the blue with white stripes colour scheme that BR tried to introduce, as it was thought they were one of the few types that actually suited that colour scheme. I have several Bulleids myself, including the 'Fighter Command' Battle of Britain in photographic grey that Much ado about toys brought out several years ago, but none of them have been touched yet, but probably will do in the near future!

 

Colin

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Colin

 

I have to say that I have been tempted, my modelling period is 1946 to 1949 so the first couple 35017 and 35026 being outshopped in July 1949 might get a look in at some stage.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a couple more photos today of spam cans.

First up is 34 102 'Lapford'. This was modified from a Hornby WEYMOUTH and has the RT models drain pipes at the front.
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Next is 34 067 'Tangmere' with plates from Fox Transfers
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Ian

Edited by roundhouse
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  • 1 month later...

Hmm, I fancy doing a Lapford. It would have to be in the 1960 condition were the tender still has it's raves.
Does any one have an idea as to which Hornby Tender I should use?

Meanwhile here are a couple of shots of my Coombe Martin.

post-4587-0-70523400-1341698867_thumb.jpgpost-4587-0-48025700-1341698654_thumb.jpgpost-4587-0-98982700-1341698681_thumb.jpgpost-4587-0-28702000-1341698711_thumb.jpg

This started life as a Hornby Wilton, but was converted to Coombe Martin using ashpans and R/H pipes by Albert. (well before Hornby bought out their Coombe Martin)
The loco was also converted to EM and was used to prove that the EMGS conversion sheet made sense.
If I can do then anyone can.



Edit: to add on extra photo and to openly thank Jim Corbett and Douglas Smith for their help and encouragement in doing this conversion.

Edited by brightspark
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Roundhouse - you appear to have modified the ashpan/grate on 34020/67 but not the others. Can you tell us what you have done, or is it merely photographic/weathering?

 

JE

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I have used Alan Gibson white metal castings. However I couldn't get more of them to do some of the locos until very recently when RT Models took on all these ex Albert Good hall detailing bits. I I now have quite a few sets of ash pans to do the rest of the un rebuilt.

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I have a batch of the RT models drainpipes to fit to some of my Bulleids. From the experience of those that have fitted them, how much does this limit the minimum curve radius they can go round? I'm hoping 30" as that is likely to be the min on the layout I've not yet started...

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I presume that 'Combe Martin' runs on Swaynton: she certainly looks nice!

JE

Yes. But she doesn't get an outing very often having been the back up loco for the Belle.
I have just changed the headcode so that she can run on the interegional. A task that she seemed to be doing in 1960.
I found that she was spotted and timed on the interegional on 4th June 1960 (Locomotive Performance site).
And found a picture taken on the same day on flea bay
This is right in the target date for Swaynton, May/June 1960.
The writter of loco performance has also published his trainspotting logs. These record engine, length of train and time! Almost enough information to replicate not a typical day, but a specific day! However that would be getting off subject.
I guess that I should add the numbers onto the headcode disc and open the sand covers.
Is there a canvas cover between tender and the cab? I can never quite make it out on the pictures. Edited by brightspark
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I have a batch of the RT models drainpipes to fit to some of my Bulleids. From the experience of those that have fitted them, how much does this limit the minimum curve radius they can go round? I'm hoping 30" as that is likely to be the min on the layout I've not yet started...

 

I have put a bend in them so they curve round the inside of the steps but bend the pipes outwards slightly where they come out of the cylinders.

They go round some of the sharper than 3ft radius turnouts I have. I guess they are about 30" radius.

post-1557-0-90753000-1341767242_thumb.jpg

Edited by roundhouse
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Being an S&D modeller, I too have a Hornby Combe Martin (from the set), and I found that compared to Wilton, the body sat too high at the cab end. The cab roof was much higher than the tender roof. This may have been due to Hornby modifying the chassis. Wilton has the sprung rear axle whereas Combe Martin dosn't. I fixed this by filing out the top of the holes in the boiler backhead within the cab where the chassis lugs poke through. This allows the body to sit a bit lower at the cab end and the rooves now line up.

 

Also, as I model the '60s era, I've mounted an AWS battery box above the buffer beam, together with it's protective cover which I made out of thin brass sheet.

 

Now comes my question.

 

Combe Martin was one of the locos that had the 'West Country Class' scrolls mounted higher up the body side than where Hornby have placed them, and being a bit fussy, I want to correct this. I've managed to remove the Hornby scrolls cleanly without any body damage and I've got some LFC etched brass ones to replace them, but they are tiny and difficult to handle and manipulate with fingers or tweezers.

 

Can anyone suggest how to best fix them to the body side without making a mess ! My thoughts are either super glue or gloss varnish, but there's bound to be a smear of it left on the body side when positioning them. Will it 'chip' off when dry ?

 

Alternatively, does anyone know of a supplier of transfers for these instead.

 

I've noticed from the pictures above that some of you gentlemen look as though you've managed this successfully.

Edited by Combe Martin
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Actually all the Hornby unrebuilts that I have bought including 'Wilton's all sit too high but it probably is more noticeable on the later ones with less spring in the rear driving axle.

I have modified them all the same way as you have.

 

With regards fixing the etched scrolls, I position them on the bodyside, hold them down with a small screwdriver then with a piece of fine wire in the other hand, dipped in superglue, apply the glue to the bottom edge of one corner of the scroll. When that has gone solid I can then do the same to the rest of the scroll.

 

I do the same to the nameplates then spray the whole body matt varnish afterwards. This hides any gloss from the superglue and also helps reduce the edges of the plates which can be caught by fingers and ripped off when handling.

 

These days I tend to use the Fox nameplates. The scrolls come off the etch a bit easier than others but still just as easy to lose!

 

Ian

Edited by roundhouse
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