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Weathering Locos and Wagons


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Hi Andrew,

 

Like the 9f, just starting one myself.

 

What did you use for the wheels / coupling rods ?

 

Bit of a pig getting the coal moulding out as well !

 

Regards,

 

Dave.

Hi Dave, the wheels and coupling rods were just powders but with the tip of a fine brush diped in water and then wiped on a tissue before dipping in the powders, a bit like water colour painting using block paints.

 

As for the coal, yes you need to cut away the old motor housing and then cut out the imitation coal and make a new box to put the coal in. I you are putting in a good coal load the the box dose not need to be acurate.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi Andrew,

 

Some really great advice on here - many thanks.

 

I've commented on some of your (many) layouts I've seen on here over the last few years (Glen Roy is a real favourite) and I can't believe I never noticed Kingsmill in your E-signiture.

 

I admired that in a magazine I bought (and still own somewhere) some time ago. Small world!!

 

All the best,

James

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Thanks Dave and James for you nice comments, Kingsmill was in Model Rail in 2008 and Railway Modeller in 2009 unfortunately when I came to move it I had not done a very good job of the base board joints and the track was a bit distorted so in the end it was scrapped which was a shame BUT I have learnt from the errors made back then and I am much more carefull on board jpoints. Any way enough of that some more weathered wagons and locos for you including a 7mm Heljan 47.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Andy

 

I am slowly getting round all your threads, it has become obvious that everything you have had to do in the past I will have to do myself, again you & your fellow posters supply a never ending manual of how to do it.

 

Have you tried the new Humbrol (maybe not so new) or seen their videos

uch as

 

I am currently looking at eBay for stuff to practice on & was thinking of going down the Humbrol route but I see their are other options and materials available, some that I may already have laying around the workshop shed

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  • 1 month later...

Fantastic thread Andy, very inspirational. I've got a fair few new locos that will need weathering, and this has inspired me to crack on and get it done whilst I wait to be able to start my layout project. :)

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In the February 2012 Railway Modeller I produced an article on how to weather wihout the use of an airbrush. My pallett contains just enamel and acrylic paints and Carrs wathering powders, plus pencils, talcom powder and chalkes. One of the secects of brush weathering is not to mix paint or powders on the pallett but to blend on the subject. Here are a series of photos showing how I did my Bachmann Limpet, As I said in my article you must first decide on the period modelled and how old the wagon or loco would be, i.e. how worn It is; and what it would carry, it also worth remembering that wagons do not go through the wash so dirt builds up very quickly even on a fairley new wagons.It is also worth remembering that Chassis are NOT BLACK, and cerinly not shinny plastic. Do try on an old wagon first and if over done, a wash of thinners will generally remove most of the paints or powders with a tisue. good luck but do not blame me if it goes wrong.

Some food for thought here Andy, when I get round to wagon building I'll make sure I refer to this for my weathering.

                                              Simon

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Cheers all I had forgotten about this thread, As for sealing them I have never bothered but as Humbrol now have Acrylic Varnish I may give that a try.

 

Here is an Ivatt that I have just done for Railway Modeller and my Diesel Loco Weathering is out in the next Issue of RM (11 July) again all powders and dry brushed. and also another 9F that had deen sprayed matt Black when I bought it s/hand and I have just used powders on it.

 

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And the 9F

 

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Andy, alias Bodgit

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As for sealing them I have never bothered but as Humbrol now have Acrylic Varnish I may give that a try.

Try on something you've not done much work on - in my experience, varnish over powders just causes them to disappear.

 

I use MIG powders because they stick like the proverbial to a blanket and don't generally need sealing at all.

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