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Can anyone please identify these 5 pole motors?


Simon G
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I acquired the motors in the picture as part of a batch of largely X03/X04 and Airifx motors, but havent a clue what they are. Someone did suggest that they might be Anchoridge ones, but wasnt sure.

 

Thanks in advance!

post-9029-0-69469300-1335643501_thumb.jpg

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Many thanks for the DS10 identification - that is spot on, having googled DS10 and found some pictures.

 

I dont think that the other is an X03/4 replacement, as it is only 2/3rds the size of an X03/4. Even with the long shaft, it is only just as long as an X04. I would require a special mount or some careful work to get it to replace an X03/4.

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Top is definitely an Anchoridge DS10 and the other is an Anchoridge Dll

Many thanks also - I must have clicked 'Post' on my reply to Butler Henderson a few seconds after you posted the D11 identification! Have googled D11 and it is the same as my motor.

They both run nicely, so just need to find a use for them, or sell them on.

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While open-frame motors seem to have fallen out of favour these days, I find the DS10 (still available as an H1024) a useful unit as it fits comfortably between most 'OO' loco frames, & is usually quiet in operation. The D11 was also a superb unit in it's day, & I still have some saved for my own use;- It's a good idea to make up a solder tag for the 'live' brush-holder if you decide to use it, as I've seen a good many otherwise servicable motors ruined by getting solder inside the brush spring, or melting the insulation. Spares are, regretfully, no longer available....

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OT really, but I recently passed on to a fellow club member a Farish 5-pole motor in its original box, don't know if they fitted them into RTR locos.

 

 

(Graham Farish locos were to have 5-pole motors in 1969-1970 according to the 1969 GF "manual".)

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OT really, but I recently passed on to a fellow club member a Farish 5-pole motor in its original box, don't know if they fitted them into RTR locos.

 

It also says in the 1969 Farish book that the motors sold "solo" would not fit Farish locos.

 

I think the loco motor was "built in" to the frames, probably the shaft bearing was part of the frames?

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  • 2 weeks later...

My 5-pole replacements for Triang motors look exactly the same as the original except with a 5-pole armature.

 

Keith

 

D11 is smaller than XO4. I have several new in boxes along with D13's as well. I found the D11 to be a better motor than it's big brother.

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  • 4 years later...

Many people feel these open frame motors are old hat these days as can type motors have far better characteristics like higher torque at lower revs, totally enclosed armature, threaded fixing holes on front for widely available gearboxes or simple mounts.  I think the max revs of the D11 and D13 were something like 28000RPM whereas the equivalent can is around 12000 RPM and the torque is in a much better range for model loco use. I standardised on around 50:1 ratio with most sizes of cans and if you think about the wheel size, an express loco would go at twice the speed as a small wheeled shunter for the same motor speed. I've never had a quality can motor 'burn' but I have had a few D11s do a core meltdown due to insufficient gearing, at least though the brushes and springs are easily replaceable unlike the cheap can motors I have seen on Ebay, okay the motors are cheap enough to replace but one may need to strip the chassis down to get at it.

 

Dave Franks

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When soldering wires to D11s and D13s be careful as there is a small hole in the brush retaining screw and solder can infiltrate soldering brush spring solid. If this happens as the carbon brush is eroded electrical contact will be lost; the motor will lose power and eventually cease to work. In the past I have come across a number of these cases. MG Sharpe use to sell replacement brush holders, but replacement brushes can be made from suitable pencil lead. From memory the D13 had only one of the brush holders insulated making the motor live to the chassis, causing problems with some instillations.  On the other hand on the D11 both brush holders are insulated.

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When soldering wires to D11s and D13s be careful as there is a small hole in the brush retaining screw and solder can infiltrate soldering brush spring solid. If this happens as the carbon brush is eroded electrical contact will be lost; the motor will lose power and eventually cease to work. In the past I have come across a number of these cases. MG Sharpe use to sell replacement brush holders, but replacement brushes can be made from suitable pencil lead. From memory the D13 had only one of the brush holders insulated making the motor live to the chassis, causing problems with some instillations.  On the other hand on the D11 both brush holders are insulated.

 

The soldering went ok and the motor is working fine. My D11 only has one insulated connector.

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  • 3 years later...
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6 hours ago, leopardml2341 said:

Resurrection of an old thread, but wondering if anyone can help?

 

I have a DS10 where one of the pole pieces gas 'come adrift' - any suggestions as to what to use to bond it back in place please?

 

TIA

Perhaps try a contact adhesive, which gives a bit of time for final adjustment. No idea how successful it will be as it needs to be concentric, or it will run very badly.

Might be time to look for a replacement, if it fails.

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  • 2 months later...

Interestingly as I said in another post where I request info on a seven pole motor( no answers yet) I am going through my kit built logging what motors they have in them, during which I have looked  at a old W and H catalog where these same motors are sold as tenshodo ? You know the same people who made spuds.

who or what name came first

Edited by Graham456
Spellchuck changing things P.I.T.A
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  • 1 month later...

I have a seven pole motor I bought quite a few years ago, quite similar to the design Kato supply with a 5 pole armature which is quite a bit smaller. It has a couple of threaded holes on the base but I am not aware of any commercially available motor mounts. Looks to have the same shaft diameter as the older Romford gears

 

I am sold on gearboxes, especially High Level and you need an appropriate motor for them with either a 1, 1.5 or 2mm shaft preferably with mounting screws the same as the Mashimas

 

There is at least one chap on eBay importing Chinese motors selling I think for under a tenner

 

 

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