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RAF Kinloss MRC / Halfords Paint List - 2012 Version


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I have a question regarding Halford primers and I decided to post it here rather than start a new thread.

 

When priming plastic models, is it necessary to use the special plastic primer or will the normal primer suffice?

 

I tend to use Halfords grey primer straight onto any plastic body, be it painted or unpainted.

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I tend to use Halfords grey primer straight onto any plastic body, be it painted or unpainted.

 

Interesting, does that mean the primer can be used over a RTR paint job without having to strip it? I have a Hornby Shark that I want to respray from Departmental Olive into Black, whilst leaving the roof and veranda areas as they are. I was pondering doing a carefull stripping job, but if I could just remove the transfers and then apply the Halfords primer it would save a lot of time.

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Interesting, does that mean the primer can be used over a RTR paint job without having to strip it? I have a Hornby Shark that I want to respray from Departmental Olive into Black, whilst leaving the roof and veranda areas as they are. I was pondering doing a carefull stripping job, but if I could just remove the transfers and then apply the Halfords primer it would save a lot of time.

 

Same here. I just rub down transfers/lining with T-cut and/or fine wet and dry as appropriate to the situation. No need to take modern RTR paint jobs back to bare plastic. Once you've used Halfords grey primer you won't go anythere else unless it's Halfords white or red oxide!

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Help if you rough up the original factory finish - primer like a rough surface to grip to. It then acts as a sponge for the colour coats.

 

Not too harsh a rubdown tho - you don't want gouge marks.

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Just thought I would write my first post . I have been a coachbuilder/painter for over 40 yrs and modelmaker longer and would suggest never to regard colourcharts as accurate as they are limited by the print process and best way to check a colour is to make testcard using the same primer as you intend to use on your model and apply topcoats tocover when fully dry check it for a match in the sort of light you will br veiwing the model. Hope this is of s

some help .f

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  • 1 year later...

Talbot Jonquil and Peugeot Antelope Beige are discontinued at Halfords. However, I can recommend Auto Paints St Helens. http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/

 

Their online ordering system requires make, model, year etc so I used their 'contact us' link to enquire whether they could mix Talbot Jonquil without all of this info. In no time at all, Martin replied that they could mix it on the colour name alone. I placed the order, inserting 'not known' in all of the above fields, and next day but one the aerosols arrived! Just sprayed, and the coach sides look GREAT.

 

The price (400ml compared to Halfords 300ml) was very reasonable and they didn't stiff me on carriage either.

 

So, name your auto paint colour, and the guys in St Helens will deliver :). Usual BBC caveat - other paint suppliers exist.

 

PS. whites and creams look considerably different depending on the light source. Under kitchen 'warm' halogen lights the colour looks, well, WARM. More like GWR cream. Under LED lights it looks spot on. So, the colour will look right under LED, fluorescent and daylight, but not under tungsten - what are you modelling for?

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  • 3 months later...

Hi, I have been "surfing" now for 2 hours, I have probably glossed (pun intended) over it somewhere as my eyes slowly turn square..... 

 

BR Grey.....  does anyone know the car paint colour for that?

I have a Class 124 DMU that I dont want Green, as I wasnt born then  :sarcastichand:

 

Right... time to back away from the laptop....  

 

Ta

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The original Railfreight grey and Red Stripe grey is matched with a Rustoleum colour, dark grey I think. Pretty good match. I'm trying to find matches for the triple grey Railfreight colours tho if anyone's got any ideas. NSE blue (not sure which one though) can be covered by Ford Capri blue

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  • 2 months later...

I'm going toneed a BR crimson topaint a BR (SR) ex LSWR push pull set. These two paints from the list on page 1

 

 

BR Coach Carmine :- Ford Rosso Red - Vauxhall Carmine Red (both too “fire engineâ€)
BR Blood/Custard (approx colours) :- Ford Venetian Red - Talbot Jonquil

 

 

Seem to be possible, but I'd struggle to believe Rosso red wasn't too bright, does anyone have an opinion on other possibilites?

 

 

I'm also going to need to paint BR/SR green onto a number of GUVs and CCT - again any suggestions from the Halfords range? I had a railmatch aerosol lined up for that, but when I tried it all I got was covered in green spots.

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

Jon

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  • 3 months later...
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Dmu green bs 381c 224 deep bronze green. That's the later one. I painted the class 127 dmu at the midland railway in this colour.

 

Bs381c 226 Middle Brunswick green. This is the lighter green as used before the darker, the 114 dmu at butterley is painted this colour.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

I'm going toneed a BR crimson topaint a BR (SR) ex LSWR push pull set. These two paints from the list on page 1

 

 

BR Coach Carmine :- Ford Rosso Red - Vauxhall Carmine Red (both too “fire engineâ€)

BR Blood/Custard (approx colours) :- Ford Venetian Red - Talbot Jonquil

 

 

Seem to be possible, but I'd struggle to believe Rosso red wasn't too bright, does anyone have an opinion on other possibilites?

 

 

I'm also going to need to paint BR/SR green onto a number of GUVs and CCT - again any suggestions from the Halfords range? I had a railmatch aerosol lined up for that, but when I tried it all I got was covered in green spots.

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

Jon

Jon, did you ever find a green that was suitable for you BR SR stuff?

I thought I had found a good generic 'BRSR workaday coach look Green' with Carplan Green No 15. When I tested it on an old Hornby Dublo coach it went on well. Then I used it on the coach I had prepared for weeks. I bu**ered it up and had to strip the thing totally. I considered that the CarPlan was spraying a bit too thick for 4mm stuff.

Today I tried another test spray and the can just wont spray correctly despite shaking, angling and shaking some more! I'll give it one more test go tomorrow or Friday but I'm not risking my precious coach unless I get a perfect test result. So I was off to Halfords but read the above comments and have put that on hold.

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  • 4 months later...

I have a question regarding Halford primers and I decided to post it here rather than start a new thread.

 

When priming plastic models, is it necessary to use the special plastic primer or will the normal primer suffice?

 

Absolutely NO.  The normal Halfords primer is absolutely fine. I have  used it on plastic locos/rolling stock for years with absolutely no problems whatsoever.

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I confess to being generally rather bemused by this thread. Other than the Halfords primers (which are absolutely fine provided they are applied very sparingly), and the matt black (which actually dries with a bit of a sheen), I would not recommend rattle cans of any kind for painting railway models for the simple reason that car paints tend to be ultra-high gloss, which just does not suit railway models.

 

Much better in my opinion to use a decent quality air brush with properly matched Precision or Railmatch paints, which are a joy to apply and dry just right. More to the point, the spray is also very much finer and infinitely more controllable. Finally, the colours from the above two manufacturers are carefully researched, avoiding the need to find a 'similar' car paint. 

 

Other than for priming, I am at a bit of a loss as to why anyone would want to use car paints and rattle cans in the first place on a precious model which may have taken many, many painstaking hours to build.....after all, everything is in the finish - and if we are talking locos here, a decent airbrush probably costs less than the model.

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Without sounding like I'm criticising, which I'm not, what's wrong with ultra high gloss finish? From pretty much everything I've read on painting, ultra high gloss is what suits transfer application the best. I paint all my locos and stock with aerosols, and I've never had a problem as they are run over with satin varnish after to seal everything in and give it my preferred finish

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Car Aerosol paints if they are correct shade are cheap and give superb finish when applied correctly. Airbrushes are a pain to get to work and can be erratic in the end finish result and a lot of cleaning up as well.

Precision sell aerosols of their paint as well , sadly not of the quality of Halfords aerosols. 

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Strangely, I find the 'railway specific' aerosols are pretty much useless. The 'big nasty uncontrollable' car aerosols are much better with an even finish from the start to the end of the can, and they're cheaper. Just wish someone had painted their car in rail blue! People who can use airbrushes are masters, they can do magic with their skills, but I think as long as the outcome of the finished product is what's required, I don't think it really matters how you get there

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