Mr Pegasus Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Hello Marc, I just have to say that you're dead right! I've been hovering over the attractions of 0 scale for some time now, having been 'into' N for years and not getting anywhere. I think I would still like to build a tailchaser in N but have a shunting layout in 0 as well. The best of both worlds, perhaps? What is the provenance of your 08, please? It's lovely! Harold. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Hi Mr Pegasus, It's the first wagon kit that usually does it! Once you have built one in O, there's no going back Well, actually, there is - I still model the smaller scales too.... Yes, an n gauge tail chaser has been in my thoughts too Or possibly a small-ish circular layout... I find that in O, I'm happier to take in the detail in a more leisured look, and am happier with less Certainly, DCC sound has added to this I like to just start the 08 up, and listen to it ticking over... Oh the simple pleasures Regarding the Skytrex sentinel It was supplied as is I'm not sure of the origins of the motor could well be based on the old Lima type I have merely added decals & weathering.... The 08 is a Bachmann brassworks model They are still knocking around second-hand Particularly the unpainted versions BLack Rat told me at Taunton, He'd seen an 08 and 03 in his local shop, painted, for £250 each ..... and didn't buy them! Suffice to say, someone else did! BTW. The Bacchy 08 draws so little current, it only needs an OO scale size decoder to run it Caroline at South West Digital informed me of that, and she's right.... another cost saving Cheers all any more questions, don't hesitate... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted May 15, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 15, 2012 I don't usually like photo backscenes, but the way you've used this particular one is a triumph. Have you tweaked it in any way? It's has the blue haze of distance off to a tee. Regarding the Atlas diesel and its Anglicisation, have you considered something like this Kerr Stuart. I have a similar style 6w HO Bachmann chassis (now in EM) that awaits time and plasticard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Marc I loved your previous minimum space O gauge layout and having seen (and heard!) Poynton Sneer at Taunton, I absolutely adore it. Beautifully detailed and everything looks just right. This is yet another really inspirational layout from you and demonstrates just what you can do in O gauge in a small space. You've just raised the bar ........ again! Stephen 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 I don't usually like photo backscenes, but the way you've used this particular one is a triumph. Have you tweaked it in any way? It's has the blue haze of distance off to a tee. Regarding the Atlas diesel and its Anglicisation, have you considered something like this Kerr Stuart. I have a similar style 6w HO Bachmann chassis (now in EM) that awaits time and plasticard. Hi Neil, Thanks for your kind words - I'm blushing now, because as you know, I've long admired your fine layouts. "Shell Island" still ranks as an all time favourite That's enough cheesiness! I know what you mean re photo backscenes - they can actually draw attention, and somehow highlight the fact that what's in front of them is a model.... .... if you know what my early-morning logic is trying to explain... This background is from the Gaugemaster range, and is allegedly the OO version - also available in N It has a blue hue anyway - much too blue, in my opinion It's also quite glossy or at least "lustre" in finish Backgrounds should contain more blue than the foreground this is what is known as "atmospheric perspective" But as I was saying - this one was a rather strong blue Firstly, I sprayed some aerosol acrylic matt varnish over it Then I sprayed it with white acrylic matt - to fade the strong blue cast Then I applied a further coat of matt varnish It seems to have worked fairly well, but I feel it still needs more matt.... To those wishing to use a photo backscene BEWARE - I have experimented with several and different adhesives have different effects on them... Walpaper paste and PVA glues can make them expand, when wet and the paper then shrinks + contracts as it dries out - which can be disastrous I found the best method, is to first stick the backscene to lining paper (£1 per roll) using photo-mount adhesive spray. I then stuck this to hardboard... BUT first, I primed the hardboard with white undercoat - this worked fairly well but I still had some "bubbles" of air - so I used the iron, to flatten them out "While that iron is hot......." she said Cheers folks 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 The "fading" of the backscene also seems to work well in Black & White.... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artizen Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 My backscenes are only 1200mm long but 420mm high so i have used double sided tape along the top edge only and magic tape (neutral pH) at the sides where any future potential damage might occur. This allows the paper to move in changes with temperature and humidity but can also create slight ripples in the surface if you are not careful. I always add the backscene last from behind so this technique is quick and simple. They are also removable so I can work on my dioramas from any side. Luckily if any damage occurs, I simply print another one on my 44 inch inkjet! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) My backscenes are only 1200mm long but 420mm high so i have used double sided tape along the top edge only and magic tape (neutral pH) at the sides where any future potential damage might occur. This allows the paper to move in changes with temperature and humidity but can also create slight ripples in the surface if you are not careful. I always add the backscene last from behind so this technique is quick and simple. They are also removable so I can work on my dioramas from any side. Luckily if any damage occurs, I simply print another one on my 44 inch inkjet! Hi, yes I've made the backscene on this layout removable as well It is stuck down onto hardboard, but that is just held in place with a few screws It seems to hold together firmly enough I quite like the idea that Sandhills on this forum uses - he makes diaoramas with no fixed backscene he can then take the layout / diorama outside, select a suitable backdrop, and photograph his models against any natural backscene..... Cheers again EDIT: Do your backscenes ever get damaged, when fixed in this fashion? On Hendre Lane, I made my own backscene, which I was quite happy with, but I left a gap between the backscene and scenery I did this to enable me to drop in other backscenes..... I only used this once or twice - I slid in some black card, to photograph a "night scene" but the card buckled too easily when placing / removing it Edited May 16, 2012 by marc smith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 It is I think my 5th layout since Hendre Lane, some 4 years ago Don't bother applying for the RMWeb Procrastinators Group, you wouldn't be allowed in Good to see you are still producing some very inspirational 7mm layouts!! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artizen Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Hi Marc... you asked a question on 16 May about damage to the backscenes when mounted to the layout from behind. Yes, I have damage to one of the backscenes when I took the diorama to a show about 50km away and the usual sloppy road surfaces in Australia shook it half to death. It suffered from ink being removed from the surface where it rubbed against the back of a wall on the layout. Usually once I am happy that the diorama is complete I bolt the backscene into place and add wooden rubbing strips at each end to stop damage when transporting. I have a removable roof so I can still access the innards of the diorama. Because I only print onto cheap bond paper in a roll, it can be easily damaged if roughly handled. If that happens, I can always reprint. All my dioramas have the same backscene photo either running from the left or from the right depending on how it works better with foreground details. So far no-one has picked that particular trick when viewing it. When I sold ID backscenes, I remember it coming in something that looked like thick wallpaper. I really wish I could source that material for my own backscenes! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Hi Marc, I really like this. I think it is the way you've got a wealth of detail in a small space without it feeling at all crowded. In 5' in O that is no mean feat. As someone who is teetering on the edge of starting something with foam, can you give some details of how you constructed the board? Did you brace it underneath, or is it just faced with timber? Is there any chance of a photo of the underside? Thanks for sharing and keep the photos coming! All the best, Rob. Apologies for forgetting to respond to this question earlier…. Ooops - sorry Rob T! Anyhow, I hope these photos & diagrams illustrate roughly how I use the foamboard to make baseboards. This is the pink insulation board, made by a company called “Knauff†B&Q and other DIY stores make their own versions. Here’s a brief description of my technique; 1. Cut insulation board to shape & size 2. Cut battens to run front to back I use light planed wood, around 25-30mm by 10-12mm Approx 1 batten per foot – depending on design / shape of board… 3. Glue battens in place – I use PVA, with 1 or 2 dabs of “no nails†Leave to dry with heavy-ish weight on top of board (e.g. toolbox) to ensure all stays square 4. Glue mounting board onto top surface – adds strength & rigidity, acts as Ballast shoulder, without adding too much weight. Also made height sufficient to marry with fiddle / sector plate 5. Low-lying foreground – I cut the middle foreground piece away, added an offcut of insulation board to underside around the area. This has given me a good difference in levels at the front. 6. Cut backscene / end boards to size. I used hardboard – lighter than MDF or Ply. Can be strengthened using off-cut strips of hardboard. 7. Insulation board is delicate, so protect front with strip of hardboard, or MDF, if you prefer. This has resulted in a very lightweight, strong structure. But don’t get any Superglue or solvents near it, until it is “sealed†8. Board cuts easily to contour required. Use thin coat of DAS, mixed with PVA to form ground /earth. Coat with thinned down textured landscape paint (green scenes) to required colour. Hope this is clear? Cheers Marc 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Great to see another quality layout from you Marc, and its O Gauge, compact, and scenic, looking forward to seeing it at Stafford. All the best Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted May 21, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 21, 2012 Cracking layout Marc, as usual. Nice to see it's not raining this time... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Cracking layout Marc, as usual. Nice to see it's not raining this time... Ah, but it was raining last time I had to take the layout in and out of the car! Perhaps I'll make the next layout windy? Cheers Marc 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted May 22, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2012 Perhaps I'll make the next layout windy? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lapford34102 Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Hi Marc, Would you please refrain from posting any more pics of your layout. I am finding it most distracting! Here am I trying to get my head around "N" and you put this up......... Really excellent and hopefully I'll get a chance to see it for real one day. You might have mentioned it somewhere and I've missed it but is it a sound chip in the 08? Cheers Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob T Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Apologies for forgetting to respond to this question earlier…. Ooops - sorry Rob T! Anyhow, I hope these photos & diagrams illustrate roughly how I use the foamboard to make baseboards. This is the pink insulation board, made by a company called “Knauff†B&Q and other DIY stores make their own versions. Here’s a brief description of my technique; 1. Cut insulation board to shape & size 2. Cut battens to run front to back I use light planed wood, around 25-30mm by 10-12mm Approx 1 batten per foot – depending on design / shape of board… 3. Glue battens in place – I use PVA, with 1 or 2 dabs of “no nails†Leave to dry with heavy-ish weight on top of board (e.g. toolbox) to ensure all stays square 4. Glue mounting board onto top surface – adds strength & rigidity, acts as Ballast shoulder, without adding too much weight. Also made height sufficient to marry with fiddle / sector plate 5. Low-lying foreground – I cut the middle foreground piece away, added an offcut of insulation board to underside around the area. This has given me a good difference in levels at the front. 6. Cut backscene / end boards to size. I used hardboard – lighter than MDF or Ply. Can be strengthened using off-cut strips of hardboard. 7. Insulation board is delicate, so protect front with strip of hardboard, or MDF, if you prefer. This has resulted in a very lightweight, strong structure. But don’t get any Superglue or solvents near it, until it is “sealed†8. Board cuts easily to contour required. Use thin coat of DAS, mixed with PVA to form ground /earth. Coat with thinned down textured landscape paint (green scenes) to required colour. Hope this is clear? Cheers Marc Marc, Just seen your kind reply. Thanks VERY much for this! The level of detail is exactly what I was hoping for. Your effort in putting this together is much appreciated. Please keep the pictures coming, this is inspiration of the highest order... In fact, you've inspired me to clear some time at the weekend and make a start on a test piece using your techniques. Thanks again and keep up the good work. Rob. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Hi Marc, .......You might have mentioned it somewhere and I've missed it but is it a sound chip in the 08? Cheers Stu Hi Stu, You'll find it a tad trickier to get a sound chip in an n gauge 08 Yes, the 08 is sound fitted I used the SWD chip, and a large circular speaker (about 2.5 inches diameter?) Caroline from SWD assured me the Bachmann 08 draws so little current, I could use the OO gauge version of the chip - which was cheaper than the O version This turned out to be quite correct, and it seems to run fine The sound is nice & loud through that large speaker too.... I also play ambient sounds, as I usually do with my 4mm layouts I put these together myself, and have them playing in the background on a cd player, via some PC speakers.... All the sounds I use (except on Wales, Rails, Rain & Steel) are free to use searching online, sites like "sounddogs.com" have free, downloadable sound effects; birdsong (many different species) cows, sheep, car horns, tractors starting up, factory noises, and shunting yard sounds.... etc etc These sounds are free to use, in low-quality 8 bit form If you want higher quality stereo versions of the sounds, you can purchase them however, for these sort of purposes, the low quality version is absolutely fine! I edited the sounds, using the free software "Windows Movie Maker" which usually comes pre-installed on your PC It's quite easy to do, and the difference it makes is subtle, but effective It's free, a bit of fun to do, but can make a difference The number of people I've seen at shows, looking around for the sparrow who has just flown in.... For me, sound just seems to add a dimension Cheers again 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 The number of people I've seen at shows, looking around for the sparrow who has just flown in.... Marc Yes, that was me at Taunton! If it hadn't been pouring with rain outside, I would have been convinced that was where the sparrows were coming from. :-) The sounds are very effective and add an extra dimension to the layout. Stephen 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr2 Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Hello Marc, just stumbled across this thread from a link posted elsewhere - & glad I did as you've created yet another gem of a layout! When I first saw the pics I was convinced that you'd used some of your own pics from Knuckle Yard as the backscene! Hope you don't mind but I've sent you a PM. All the best Keith 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 Yes Mr Warspite, I recall seeing you, and one or two others looking around When I played the rain & thunderstorm effects with "Wales, Rails, Rain & Steel" last year... It positively sent shivers down the spines of onlookers .... or maybe that was my aftershave Keefr, of course I don't mind a pm from you sir, as long as you don't mention which team you support Cheers Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 Marc, Your work never ceases to amaze me. When will you be exhibiting Down Under? Cheers, William Thanks William, I will exhibit down under as soon as I get an invitation.... Dunno what customs would say about me taking a layout on an aeroplane tho Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted May 25, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 25, 2012 Dunno what customs would say about me taking a layout on an aeroplane tho its been done...but its the miniature emergency toolbox that shows up on the X-Ray that gives the most fun... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Very nice work, I only wish Peco made smaller points then a lot of my planning stage problems (that I'm still stuck in) would have been solved a long time ago. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 Very nice work, I only wish Peco made smaller points then a lot of my planning stage problems (that I'm still stuck in) would have been solved a long time ago. Couldn't agree more! Mr Peco, are you listening? .... there'll be a demand you know, when the Dapol 08 is out...... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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