LULFAN Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Hi all After many many years of thinking about it (45+ years)! I have started to get moving and create my first layout I am very lucky I have a spare room 12ft x 11ft to do a shelf railway around the room 2ft deep Some time ago I did buy a card model of Elstree south but I have now lost it so if anyone has a spare they would like to sell please get in touch I am thinkng Peco 100 track + code 60 for the 3rd and 4th would be the way to do the track, does anyone have any comments on that? What do others think the minimum radius curve should be for track on show ( I hate to see trains going around curves looking like street trams or light rail Is anyone here near DN17 who might like to help with the basebord construction 12 x 11 is a lot of woodwork to do alone My wife is keen to get involved with the scenery stuff but is no good with a saw There would be a drink in it if anyone can help But before that I still have to have a good look at anyrail to see how to and south woodford and East Finchley into the plan !! It is nice to find this group to meet other LUL modellers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Metr0Land Posted May 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 14, 2012 I am thinkng Peco 100 track + code 60 for the 3rd and 4th would be the way to do the track, does anyone have any comments on that? Sounds good to me: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/39422-4-rail-oo-without-to-many-tears/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Hello Dave, Welcome to the forum, 'fraid I can't help with the card kit. Good luck, Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Hi Thanks for your answers Your 3rd an 4th look fab can I ask how did you do the ballast? I have looked at the delta ballester and gaugmaster ballast underlay any thoughts? I have got the baseboard kind of sorted my pal next door suggested using wicks contact kitchen base units and putting mdf on the top I like that 'cos I would get loads of cupbords to store stuff and loads of support for the MDF or do you guys use something else like sundella He will also make a removable bit to cross the door into the room It is really nice to have things moving now Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Metr0Land Posted May 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2012 My baseboards are 2" x 1" timber (which is practice is somewhat smaller than that). It's topped off with insulation board (which most people say is risky but I had loads left over from previous house). By making bracing pieces and keeping each supporting 'square' approx 1ft x 1ft I haven't had any problems with sagging and it deadens the noise better than some harder boards. Sundeala tends to warp in my experience so I'd never use it. Ballsting is tedious but worth the effort IMHO. I use tracklay under the track: http://www.tracklay.co.uk/ This gives you a sticky top surface onto which to spread ballast. For the side, you need to run a snails trail of pva to get the shoulder and then sprinkle that with more of the ballast. For ballast I mix my own. I did say it's tedious but worth it! In order to get a period look of weathered ballast I mix 50pct buff, with 25pct dark brown, with 25pct grey (sprinkled by hand - don't get too impatient to vacuum the excess -wait for pva to dry). Did I say it was tedious but worth it? Try some test areas first, Once you've got something you like, you'll never be happy with a uniform grey or uniform brown colour that's sold commercially. I MAY some time in the future give it a THIN wash of track colour but I don't want it too uniform. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted May 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2012 I have got the baseboard kind of sorted my pal next door suggested using wicks contact kitchen base units and putting mdf on the top I like that 'cos I would get loads of cupbords to store stuff and loads of support for the MDF or do you guys use something else like sundella He will also make a removable bit to cross the door into the room It is really nice to have things moving now Trouble with the kitchen base units is that they will tend to be in the way a bit when you need to get to the underneath of the boards (wiring, point motors, etc.). You might want to make the layout in sections which you can turn on their sides to work on. I have not come across the card kit that you mention but you will have seen that Bachmann now do several "ready to plant" buildings of Underground appearance. Although tube trains are a lot shorter than many BR mainline trains, they still do not look too good on tight curves. Aim for no less than 30" (36" would be better) on visible sections. Plenty of opportunity though with Underground stations to hide curves by modelling just one end of a station - the other end disappearing below a road and/or building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
L49 Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 The Elstree South kit has been off the market for a while, but it has been replaced by a more accurate Holden booking hall kit. Here's the link to the website. http://cdcdesign.webplus.net/ltb.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 afternoon All Once again terrific advice from you all A couple of things though "insulation board (which most people say is risky" why do people say that? I would like my tube stock to dive under as in this model Has anyone any idea what the gradient is for the train to go down to the tunnel That ballast idea looks good That was a good point about using kitchen bases but SWMBO is keen to get the cupboard space they would give It is so nice she is keen on the railway I do not want to spoil things for her As ever thanks everso for all your comments Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Metr0Land Posted May 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2012 Insulation board tends to sag if not supported at close enough intervals (and indeed is more prone to sagging in damp conditions like a garage but neither apply to me -so far!) Good idea to keep SWMBO onside. It's prob worth the extra effort on baseboards early on to make them manageable and accessible and keep the storage space. You prob want to get something running effort early on will almost certainly pay didvidens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 HI is it easy to pin into the insuation board? If so I guess I could put that on top of worktop that would stop it sagging Yes SWMBO is keen she even watched a bit of the central line cab ride (1995) this afternoon to look at ballast!! I am not going to put her off as that will kill the model stone dead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted May 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2012 Kitchen units are usually sold separate from the worktop. So I would suggest that you just buy the base units (to keep missus happy with storage) and then support proper baseboards on the units. If you just use worktop (which is expensive anyway) or worktop + insulation board, you have nowhere to run wires or put point motors out of sight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Thanks very good points there Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Metr0Land Posted May 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2012 is it easy to pin into the insuation board? If so I guess I could put that on top of worktop that would stop it sagging Yes! Also helps to have SWMBO onside when you need to buy those 'must have' items that don't fit your era but you want them anyway eg Beattie Well Tank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Hi all Well things have stopped here at the moment SWMBO does now feel that £700 ish for the kitchen base units is not good value and we have now decided to build a timber frame round the room Even taking into account the cost of the mitre saw and other bits we need the cost is a lot less than £700 I have spent 2 evenings with Anyrail and still cannot come up with a track plan that looks good so is there anyone out there that likes planning layouts that have a LUL presence ? If there is I would like to hear from you Oh well back to Anyrail for another go tonight Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Have you checked out the cheap take-away range of kitchen cupboards from B&Q? They are a bit cheap and cheerful, but they would do the job and should be a lot cheaper. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted May 17, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 17, 2012 The Elstree South kit has been off the market for a while Interesting - did it sell out, or not sell at all, I wonder. Perhaps a fantasy station, albeit based on the drawings of the era, was more than the Underground modelling community could cope with. The Bushey Heath extension always fascinated me. Just like the missing link between Chessington South and Leatherhead, abandoned for the same reason. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Have you checked out the cheap take-away range of kitchen cupboards from B&Q? They are a bit cheap and cheerful, but they would do the job and should be a lot cheaper. Jeff Hi yes I did B&Q want £53 for a 1000m base with no doors, Wickes charge £58 with doors and that was who I used to price up the units I could not find anyone selling bases for less just my luck wickes will not do a deal on the units I need The cost of 44mmx44mm timber came out at about £110 vs £750 for base unit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
L49 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Interesting - did it sell out, or not sell at all, I wonder. Perhaps a fantasy station, albeit based on the drawings of the era, was more than the Underground modelling community could cope with. The Bushey Heath extension always fascinated me. Just like the missing link between Chessington South and Leatherhead, abandoned for the same reason. It sold out, and I wanted to have a crack at doing something a little more impressive and obviously 'Holden' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Interesting - did it sell out, or not sell at all, I wonder. Perhaps a fantasy station, albeit based on the drawings of the era, was more than the Underground modelling community could cope with. The Bushey Heath extension always fascinated me. Just like the missing link between Chessington South and Leatherhead, abandoned for the same reason. Hi I did have one of the models but I got it years ago and have now lost it It looked really good you can see pics of it here http://www.metromodels.net/streetlevel_elstree_south_completed_kit.jpg http://www.metromodels.net/streetlevel_elstree_south_passimeter_ticket_machines.jpg I guess it is a but small but I think is has much more of a underground look than the new model http://cdcdesign.webplus.net/wpimages/wp5eb646e1.png It is good but just lacks something that the old model had Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 My baseboards are 2" x 1" timber (which is practice is somewhat smaller than that). It's topped off with insulation board (which most people say is risky but I had loads left over from previous house). By making bracing pieces and keeping each supporting 'square' approx 1ft x 1ft I haven't had any problems with sagging and it deadens the noise better than some harder boards. Sundeala tends to warp in my experience so I'd never use it..... Hi LULFAN, And welcome to the forum.... Here's hoping you find much inspiration, help and advice on rmweb Personally, re baseboards, I agree with the above quote I now use foam insulation board every time Just ensure you make a light wooden frame for it and don't get any solvents on it - untill it is sealed, landscaped, painted etc and even use with caution then.... Don't know where you can find the card kit, sorry but you can post a "wanted" notice on this forum If the kit is out of production, it may be difficult to source but try keeping an eye on ebay..... Worth a look - just don't pay silly money Alphagraphics make quite a number of card kits, not sure that I've seen the one you want though Anyway, good luck and keep us posted Cheers Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LULFAN Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Hi Marc So your are welsh then are you? It is a small world my late farther in law was from Cardiff I never had a chance to meet him but my wife is really interested in things welsh Though she cannot speak welsh she watches Ponb le comb the welsh soap on S4C everyday on freesat with subtitles in english she loves it Talking of her I will have to keep up the model progress as if she looses interest things will stop Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Helo na Lulfan, Yes, guilty as charged - well part English / Irish too Don't let the wife stop you if she loses interest.... Get her involved & making buildings, or wagon kits - ho ho Cheers Ooops, "Hwyl" Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TravisM Posted May 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 18, 2012 Hi there LULFAN, like you, i'm new on this forum and I have found it very helpful. I am using Peco Code 75 as I think it looks better with PECO Code 60 rail for the conductor rails. If you are going to attach the layout to the walls, why not use insulation foam board and metal right angles? I was going to use that idea but as my layout will have to be part dismantled after a operating session, I abandoned that idea. Keep up the good work and look forward to seeing how you progress on here. Julian Sprott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted May 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 18, 2012 Hi yes I did B&Q want £53 for a 1000m base with no doors, Wickes charge £58 with doors and that was who I used to price up the units I could not find anyone selling bases for less just my luck wickes will not do a deal on the units I need The cost of 44mmx44mm timber came out at about £110 vs £750 for base unit You want 75mm x 25mm (nominal) i.e. 72mm x 22mm timber. Much stronger vertically which is what matters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted May 18, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 18, 2012 Hi all I have spent 2 evenings with Anyrail and still cannot come up with a track plan that looks good so is there anyone out there that likes planning layouts that have a LUL presence ? If there is I would like to hear from you Oh well back to Anyrail for another go tonight PM me with a wishlist of what you want to include and I will have a go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.