The Osney Story: 0 Gauge Cameos and Dioramas

[JeffP]

yes, it's very nice.

I'm looking forward to the butterflies arriving......

 

And I wonder what the two people in the shelter make of a mucky old coal train reversing into their platform?

[rcf]

yes, it's very nice.

I'm looking forward to the butterflies arriving......

 

And I wonder what the two people in the shelter make of a mucky old coal train reversing into their platform?

 

They should be concerned as it may be a long wait until a passenger train arrives. It could be a toss up between the train arriving and the butterflies.

[JeffP]

LOL, my money is on the butterflies now, it will pray on your mind, you know it will.........

 

Peacocks...you KNOW you want them.!

[rcf]

Osney's entire fleet of mineral wagons lined up for inspection by the bemused couple in the shelter. Not a sight that is likely to be repeated.

 

 

 

 

I have been trying out my new airbrush and have discovered one thing. Tim Skackleton in his book on weathering says that cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to airbrushes, and he is right! I thought I had cleaned mine well but obviously not so and have just spent a happy hour stripping it down, learning how to put the trigger back when it comes out, and cleaning everything I can clean. It now seems ok but not an encouraging start. Will have to improve my performance before moving on to the next challenge, the passenger stock.

 

Rob

Edited June 15, 2022 by rcf
Photos added

[Buckjumper]

Which paints are you using through your airbrush Rob?

[rcf]

Which paints are you using through your airbrush Rob?

 

That was quick! I'm using Humbrol Enamels, in this case Leather and Metalcote, it may be a combination of the two that caused the difficulty. Perhaps I hadn't mixed them well enough. When I used them individually I didn't have the same problem. Any advice would be most welcome.

 

Rob

[Buckjumper]

Good-o - I can talk about enamels; acrylics I've not yet mastered in the airbrush...

 

It's possible the mix wasn't quite thin enough and that particles of paint simply dried in the internals requiring a full strip down, or maybe a build-up of deposits (which you thought had been properly cleaned out) which finally tipped the balance. I'm naughty and mix in the cup as I go, but if you're not careful and haven't stirred the paint sufficiently it can bung up the brush. I warm enamel tinlets on a radiator for about 10 minutes before shaking and stirring which helps to break down the thick gloop of pigment.

 

I always blow through with cellulose thinners between colours until it flows clear, and then squirt through with Liquid Reamer which is a xylene/acetone solvent, and at which point you find more colour flowing out! It's incredibly dangerous stuff if breathed in, but will shift dried deposits from the internals where cellulose fails. That should be enough for a colour change, but isn't enough if you want the airbrush to work without fail next time.

 

After an airbrushing session I always run through with cellulose until clear, run through with Liquid Reamer, strip the brush and clean the parts with xylene on some kitchen towel or using these brushes, lubricate if necessary and reassemble so next time it's ready to go. I think the first few times I stripped my Iwata it took nearly an hour, but I've become so familiar with it, and which parts need most attention, that I'm down to about 15 minutes or so.

Edited December 12, 2012 by Buckjumper

[rcf]

Good-o - I can talk about enamels; acrylics I've not yet mastered in the airbrush...

 

It's possible the mix wasn't quite thin enough and that particles of paint simply dried in the internals requiring a full strip down, or maybe a build-up of deposits (which you thought had been properly cleaned out) which finally tipped the balance. I'm naughty and mix in the cup as I go, but if you're not careful and haven't stirred the paint sufficiently it can bung up the brush. I warm enamel tinlets on a radiator for about 10 minutes before shaking and stirring which helps to break down the thick gloop of pigment.

 

I always blow through with cellulose thinners between colours until it flows clear, and then squirt through with Liquid Reamer which is a xylene/acetone solvent, and at which point you find more colour flowing out! It's incredibly dangerous stuff if breathed in, but will shift dried deposits from the internals where cellulose fails. That should be enough for a colour change, but isn't enough if you want the airbrush to work without fail next time.

 

After an airbrushing session I always run through with cellulose until clear, run through with Liquid Reamer, strip the brush and clean the parts with xylene on some kitchen towel or using these brushes, lubricate if necessary and reassemble so next time it's ready to go. I think the first few times I stripped my Iwata it took nearly an hour, but I've become so familiar with it, and which parts need most attention, that I'm down to about 15 minutes or so.

 

Hi Adrian (?)

 

Many thanks for the advice. I think I was probably cleaning it, but not enough. I will also try thinning it a little more. I can also strip the air brush down a lot quicker than when I started.

 

Thanks again for the fast response.

 

Rob

[marc smith]

Good luck with that airbrush

One thing I can say from experience, is don't spray etch primer with it...

Good job I just used a cheapo airbrush to try that!!!

 

Enamels will need thinning quite a bit, if you're used to brush painting with them...

 

Acrylics I found a little harder to mix,

but if you use a decent acrylic thinners (no, it's not just water)

 

Alternatively, for weathering you can use pre-mixed, airbrush-ready paints,

like the ones Tensoscom do.......

 

The wagons look great, sat on the layout Rob

 

Cheers

Marc

[Barry Ten]

Tim Skackleton in his book on weathering says that cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to airbrushes, and he is right! I thought I had cleaned mine well but obviously not so and have just spent a happy hour stripping it down, learning how to put the trigger back when it comes out, and cleaning everything I can clean. It now seems ok but not an encouraging start. Will have to improve my performance before moving on to the next challenge, the passenger stock.

 

Rob

 

I don't think you can ever clean an airbrush enough. I'm about to give one of mine a go and it hasn't been used for a year, so I fully expect several hours worth of fun and games trying to de-clog it, even though it would have been well cleaned after the last usage. The only solution I've found is just to use them regularly, so that the paint never gets a chance to really harden...

[rcf]

Thanks for the comments and advice, Marc and Barry Ten. I'm beginning to realise that for every few moments of air brushing I am going to have to allow much longer to clean up. None of this, I'll just put a quick coat on this before I go out!

[rcf]

I have come up against a problem, this time not airbrush related, but about Osney itself. As you will be aware by now, my aim is to present a picture to the viewer where everything blends with everything else. The scale of the various items is therefore important in achieving an overall balance and this includes the rolling stock. On any small layout it is important to keep train length short, otherwise the size of the layout is immediately obvious. I now think I have built Osney the wrong way round! That is the platform should be facing the backscene and the colliery line should have been at the front of the layout.

 

This revelation came about when I got out my shiny new autocoach and put it on the track. Although this is smaller than the one I used on Osney Town, its a Lionheart, it straight away looked huge in a way that the rake of seven mineral wagons didn't. On Osney Town this was not apparent because the train was behind the platform and was partly obscured by the station building. On Osney the train will be at the front of the layout and totally on view.

 

As I see it I have three options. The first is I learn to live with it, which is not easy when you find something which is not to your liking, secondly I could try and mitigate the problem. It may help when I have weathered the coach, as it will not stand out quite so much, and I could also try and beef up the foreground so that it breaks up the outline of the coach when it is in the platform. This is not easy as I only have about and inch to realistically use. The last option is a re-build, but this isn't really an option at this stage but could be the subject of Osney 3 at some time in the future.

 

Any suggestions for the foreground would be gratefully received and in the meantime I will get on with weathering the autocoach to see if that helps.

 

A disgruntled Rob

[cromptonnut]

Is a couple of inches extension along the front of the layout out of the question? I realised my boards were too narrow part way through construction so have added another 4" on the front, which gives me enough space for a couple of little huts etc which break up the view slightly.

[DLT]

As I see it I have three options. The first is I learn to live with it, which is not easy when you find something which is not to your liking, secondly I could try and mitigate the problem. It may help when I have weathered the coach, as it will not stand out quite so much, and I could also try and beef up the foreground so that it breaks up the outline of the coach when it is in the platform. This is not easy as I only have about and inch to realistically use. The last option is a re-build, but this isn't really an option at this stage but could be the subject of Osney 3 at some time in the future.

A disgruntled Rob

Hi Rob,

 

I would suggest extending the foreground to the railway boundary and adding a fence. Peco's new Iron Spearpoint Railings would be just the job, http://www.buffersmo...GoogleBaseFeed1 or Scalelink if you prefer the etched brass variety.

Your existing foreground slopes downwards away from the line, extend it as far as you can (even one inch would make a significant difference) and put the fence along the edge, or as close to the edge as is practical.

Alternatively, slope the ground upwards away from the railway, and then put the fence along the top. Either way it would reduce the "In yer face" effect that you describe.

Visually a fence gives a definite boundary to the scene and keeps you looking into the layout, rather than letting you eye wander down the front of the baseboard frame. Much the same effect as a backscene has at the rear.

 

Hope this helps!

All the best,

Dave.T

Edited December 16, 2012 by DLT

[mudmagnet]

Hi Rob,

 

I can see where you are coming from. Not an easy thing to come to terms with and probably something that you would not have noticed before.

Of course you have to feel comfortable with what you present.

 

I would agree with the other comments above. A removable section along the front would be straight forward solution, without having to rebuilt / remodel the great work that you have completed.

In addition, you could create a convex curve along the front, which would have the added effect of drawing the viewer into the scene and 'loosing' the straight edge along the front. This would also fool the eye a little taking away some of the 'in yer face' as DLT puts above! (I couldn't have described it better myself!)

 

Whether the slope up or down depends upon the effect that you want to achieve - either looking up or down into the scene - or perhaps giving the impression that the station / railway is in a 'valley' (with buildings behind) or in ground that rises up towards the rear buildings. I hope that this makes sense?

 

What ever you decide will enhance the scene.

 

Richard

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I have come up against a problem, this time not airbrush related, but about Osney itself. As you will be aware by now, my aim is to present a picture to the viewer where everything blends with everything else. The scale of the various items is therefore important in achieving an overall balance and this includes the rolling stock. On any small layout it is important to keep train length short, otherwise the size of the layout is immediately obvious. I now think I have built Osney the wrong way round! That is the platform should be facing the backscene and the colliery line should have been at the front of the layout.

 

This revelation came about when I got out my shiny new autocoach and put it on the track. Although this is smaller than the one I used on Osney Town, its a Lionheart, it straight away looked huge in a way that the rake of seven mineral wagons didn't. On Osney Town this was not apparent because the train was behind the platform and was partly obscured by the station building. On Osney the train will be at the front of the layout and totally on view.

 

As I see it I have three options. The first is I learn to live with it, which is not easy when you find something which is not to your liking, secondly I could try and mitigate the problem. It may help when I have weathered the coach, as it will not stand out quite so much, and I could also try and beef up the foreground so that it breaks up the outline of the coach when it is in the platform. This is not easy as I only have about and inch to realistically use. The last option is a re-build, but this isn't really an option at this stage but could be the subject of Osney 3 at some time in the future.

 

Any suggestions for the foreground would be gratefully received and in the meantime I will get on with weathering the autocoach to see if that helps.

 

A disgruntled Rob

 

Hi Rob,

 

I know the feeling - I have often been there with my model-making!

 

All of the other fellas have come up with some really great (and useful) points, yet I would like to add the following, for an easier solution in the first instance;-

 

IMHO I would weather the Auto-Coach and see if you can live with it, and/or the layout, for 2-3 months, then if you cant, you may have some tough decisions to make. Sometimes when I eg weather a model, I end up not seeing the wood for the trees or not being quite happy with it (perhaps in isolation and not in context), so I pack it away for 2-3 months, then see how it looks at the end of that time and how I 'feel' about it. If I am still not sure then I change it (because its never going to be 'right' for me), yet sometimes I look at the model again and view it in context with the whole and all is well with the world. There is of course the third/middle way and at times, with my newly moded/built/weathered model, when such is just about 'okay' to my eyes, and the weathering/detailing makes it neither stand out too much or too incogruent, I can then just live with it and move onto the next project!

 

I hope that helps.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited December 17, 2012 by CME and Bottlewasher

[rcf]

Hi All

 

Well, I am slowly emerging from my sulk in the corner, not least because of all the helpful advice you have been giving me.

 

I will try and do a general response rather than reply individually, but first, like Richard I love Dave's comment about 'in yer face' which sums up the problem perfectly. As regards extending the board in some way, Cromptonnut and Richard, this is not really on, as space in the car is critical already. Osney Town just fitted in and I now have an extra fiddle yard and more stock boxes to fit in as well.

 

That leaves the fore ground and I think a solution as described by Richard and Dave could provide some sort of answer. I had considered a fence of some type and the new spear fencing from peco might work. I have seen photos but not the real thing yet, so that is a possibility, thanks Dave for the link. The only problem might be keeping it off the edge as it would be very vulnerable to damage.

 

I haven't mentioned CME's comments yet but I like this measured approach. I have used this idea in other areas and it can be very effective. To a degree I have already gone down this route but in a slightly different way. I am leaving the coach on the layout and it is there 'in my face' every time I enter the room, I have also put some light weathering on to reduce the shine. Heavier weathering will follow as and when.

 

I think I was shocked at the shiny new coach when I put it on the layout for the first time but have recovered sufficiently not to rush in to anything to extreme. It may grow on me ,as CME suggests.

 

I have attached two photos to illustrate the 'problem',

 

 

 

 

I appreciate everyone taking time to comment.

 

Regards, a calmer Rob.

Edited June 15, 2022 by rcf
Photos added

[cromptonnut]

Accepted that there isn't room in the car for extra boards - but looking at the second photo it appears the embankment drops somewhat for the couple of inches between rail and board edge - could this be rebuilt into a small embankment above rail height instead?

[gardenwall]

How about a couple of saplings (thrown apple cores?) give you height to help break up the 'slab' of the coach, saplings need not be too bushy (deep) especially if branches growing towards the track are 'likely' to be lopped off. Could be either plug in or built whipy to avoid damage. If they were 8-9ft they would not hide the coach but would break it up and could still be legitimately skinny. Alternatively - telegraph poles.

[DLT]

I think I was shocked at the shiny new coach when I put it on the layout for the first time but have recovered sufficiently not to rush in to anything to extreme. It may grow on me ,as CME suggests.

 

Yes I see the problem!

My immediate reaction is that the coach is much too bright and shiny, it doesnt match the subtle and subdued tones of the rest of the layout.

I would go so far as to suggest that it needs a repaint, but this may not be an option if you've just shelled out a shedload for it.

Hmmm,

Dave.

[gwrman]

Hi Rob, I've not tackled enamels I went the other way and I do all mine with acrylics, I find them really easy to work with. I've even given this stuff a go which thins with water

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50ml-Acrylic-Enamel-Airbrush-Paint-5pc-Pick-frm-15-cols-/260777034250?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item3cb785c20a

it took longer to dry than normal acrylic but once dry OK.

Nigel

PS. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

[rcf]

Accepted that there isn't room in the car for extra boards - but looking at the second photo it appears the embankment drops somewhat for the couple of inches between rail and board edge - could this be rebuilt into a small embankment above rail height instead?

 

Hi Cromptonnut,

Yes I think you are proposing something a bit like Mudmagnet and I am looking at this to see what I could do without causing to much damage to what is already there.

 

How about a couple of saplings (thrown apple cores?) give you height to help break up the 'slab' of the coach, saplings need not be too bushy (deep) especially if branches growing towards the track are 'likely' to be lopped off. Could be either plug in or built whipy to avoid damage. If they were 8-9ft they would not hide the coach but would break it up and could still be legitimately skinny. Alternatively - telegraph poles.

 

Vegetation is certainly another possibility, probably in combination with fencing. Telegraph poles might be abit vulnerable near the edge but you are right about something vertical to break up the slab.

Yes I see the problem!

My immediate reaction is that the coach is much too bright and shiny, it doesnt match the subtle and subdued tones of the rest of the layout.

I would go so far as to suggest that it needs a repaint, but this may not be an option if you've just shelled out a shedload for it.

Hmmm,

Dave.

 

To be fair to the coach it is a poor photo. The background is dark and the colour is more red than maroon, must be the lighting,and now it has some weathering it does look better. When I am happy with the weathering I will post some more photos. It was only a small shedload!

 

Thanks all for the continued interest.

 

Rob

[rcf]

Hi Rob, I've not tackled enamels I went the other way and I do all mine with acrylics, I find them really easy to work with. I've even given this stuff a go which thins with water

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3cb785c20a

it took longer to dry than normal acrylic but once dry OK.

Nigel

PS. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

 

Hi Nigel,

 

All the best to you for Christmas and the New Year. You can rest easy that despite all the discussion, Osney will be ready for May!

 

I was put off using acrylics as they tend to dry very quickly and as I was just beginning using the airbrush I thought I would have more time to correct mistakes if I used enamels but as I get more confident I may give them a try.

 

Regards Rob

[DLT]

Just had a look at the pictures on Lionheart's website http://www.lionhearttrains.com/modeldetails.php?page=models&mid=4 and they all look far to bright.

Of course that maybe the photo colours being over-saturated.

Dave.

[rcf]

Just had a look at the pictures on Lionheart's website http://www.lionheart...ge=models&mid=4 and they all look far to bright.

Of course that maybe the photo colours being over-saturated.

Dave.

 

Yes, I had a look and see what you mean. The colour really is alot better than the photos suggest.