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Bachmann Jubilee


Lochinvar
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Only that the tender should really be the shorter 3500 gallon version :senile:

 

Sorry. I'll get me coat!!!

 

Would the crimson LMS Patriot or Crab tender do? 

 

In any event models can have tender swaps, the real railways did it often enough!   :)

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Would the crimson LMS Patriot or Crab tender do? 

 

In any event models can have tender swaps, the real railways did it often enough!   :)

That's what I'm working on. Also anybody that I know well enough to see my train set wouldn't know that the tender is wrong. I certainly didn't.

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You could use the chassis off a Fowler tender.

 

I did read the section on Jubilees in Essery & Jenkinson's bible on the subject.  I discovered that the Stanier 3500 Gal tender was indeed fitted to Nelson from new.  Most of the others were assigned Fowler tenders, from Scots, and another few were assigned Stanier 4000 Gal. tenders, some rivetted and some welded.  I don't have details on this particular tender so I wouldn't want to assume anything.  I also note that Gibson shows a Stanier 3500 Gal tender kit in stock.

 

John

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A potted hstory: 5664 kept the same tender most of its life (stanier 3500 gallon number 4647) but received a 4000 gallon tender (9838) sometime after 1960 and carried it to withdrawal. It kept crimson lake (code A6) until painted plain wartime black in the early 1940s. It stayed unlined black until painted BR green in November 1950. It received its Gill Sans BR number in November 1948, but kept the wartime LMS on the tender. In May 1949 the tender lettering was blanked out and it was left blank until it got the BR emblem when painted green in 1950. It was sent to Derby when new in 1935 and was withdrawn from Holbeck in 1965, but served at 11 other sheds during those 30 years.

For those interested in a detailed discussion of LMS tender types, the new LMS Review periodicals are doing a series on them, authored by John Jennison of Brassmasters.

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There were fifty 3500 gallon Stanier tenders built to go with Jubilees 5617-5666. They had curved tops similar to the more common 4000 gallon type but the same length as the Fowler type of tender. They had pan-head rivets but the rows were slightly different to those on the 4000 gallon type. In later years the 3500 gallon tenders moved around somewhat among the Jubilees and with some ending up on 8Fs. There was even a Royal Scot with one. One of the 3500 gallon tenders is preserved with 48305 although (to me) the underframe looks more Johnson than Fowler (the LMS were known to fit new bodies to old underframes).

 

I'll see if I can find a photo to re-size and post.

 

It is interesting to note that when the Jubilees were first built, all those allocated to the former Midland lines were fitted with short wheelbase tenders of various types.

 

Edit: I must add that in my trainspotting days, I didn't appreciate the differences between 3500 and 4000 gallon types.

Edited by Poor Old Bruce
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In the E&J bible, they state that the locos needed a reduced overall wheelbase for the Midland lines to suit short turntables.

 

A very interesting discussion and it has highlighted a tender type that I wasn't really aware of before (...and I daresay there are others).

 

John

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In the E&J bible, they state that the locos needed a reduced overall wheelbase for the Midland lines to suit short turntables.

 

Quite, although I think the situation was resolved before WW2 started as there are photos of Jubilees with 4000 gallon tenders on Midland lines in 1939.

 

Here are some pics of the preserved 3500 gallon tender taken at the Churnet Valley Railway in 2004.

 

post-7238-0-00651400-1420821866.jpg

 

post-7238-0-56659600-1420821877.jpg

 

post-7238-0-51633500-1420821890.jpg

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Thanks for these.  I did a search on here and came up with an old thread about these tenders.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/20376-lms-stanier-3500-gallon-tenders/

 

In it, you mention 48305 and Chris Higgs says that this is a composite tender built from a Fowler chassis.  So, modelling the actual tender needs to be carefully done.

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
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Hi alan did you ever finish your LFB. I was wondering which way you thought was the best in the end. Also what is the best paint is the closest to the paint used by Bachmann on there jubilees. I would rather like to just paint where I need to rather than a full paint job.

 

Anyone think the Bachmann folwer tank chassis will work for the stanier 3500 gallon. As a starting point.

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Hi farren,

You're making me feel guilty!   I seem to remember that I only 99% finished them before I got distracted by something else and put them away in their boxes.   Hence they were never photographed - I will try to do something about that some sunny day.   I think the second method was slightly easier but you really need to have done the first in order to get the surplus section to be grafted in.   I expect I used Precision BR green and I think I redid the boiler band decals because the Bachmann ones are underscale.   I think, if I were doing it again, I would scrape off the bands and just use the decals.

Alan

Edited by benachie
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Yes sorry I did mine fowler I am in two minds which way to go about producing some jubilees at the moment. I have two Bachmann LF jubilees and couple of Bachmann SF's plus HongKong as herself. Have just ordered a book on the class and also tracked down essery's book. Also looking at the brassmasrter site. So lots to do plus as Leicester was a very good stomping ground for the jubilees, so should have a good choice to pick from. May end up with a few models

Edited by farren
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  • 1 year later...

Hey, I have the Bachmann Jubilee 'Falkland Islands' and I was wondering what glue should be used to attach the second set of windows.  I've read that super glue can make them cloudy and I want to avoid that.  I bought UHU glue from antics and that's worked so far in attaching most of the detail parts.

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Hey, I have the Bachmann Jubilee 'Falkland Islands' and I was wondering what glue should be used to attach the second set of windows. I've read that super glue can make them cloudy and I want to avoid that. I bought UHU glue from antics and that's worked so far in attaching most of the detail parts.

 

For anything clear ii use canopy glue very sparingly.

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Hey, I have the Bachmann Jubilee 'Falkland Islands' and I was wondering what glue should be used to attach the second set of windows.  I've read that super glue can make them cloudy and I want to avoid that.  I bought UHU glue from antics and that's worked so far in attaching most of the detail parts.

I use a smear of Delux materials glue and glaze. Dries clear, holds secure but easy to remove if needs be. Good for nameplates too.

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  • 2 months later...
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After 4 years+ since I first read this topic I finally got round to giving it a go. It needs a weathering to help tone it done. And to add all the Bachmann detail pack. New Windows etc. But I'm pleased. And I have a body and spare to try the second method. My be a dome lose one next.

post-12485-0-28231800-1467213171.jpg

post-12485-0-87473300-1467213216.jpg

Edited by farren
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  • 2 months later...

 

It's been a long time coming but I finally finished my tender conversion to the 3500 gal tender.

 

 

 

P1010003-003.JPG.e40ad480a57640f3e9efb79ea89fcf58.JPG

 

P1010004-001.JPG.2931d3ea91151341a19b2b8b523b8a64.JPG

 

I used the AGW tender kit. It was not the easiest to assemble but obviously, if I can do it, quite feasible. The paint I used was Badger DM & IR Maroon (for those overseas who can't get paint from the UK). Comparing the finished kit to the Bachmann model, Bachmann might just be better - there's very little in it in any case. It struck me that a few years ago, a kit like this would propel a model to another dimension - today, the RTR models are at least as good. You can't see it, but the brake rigging is pretty crude being wire soldered together. The detail pack includes very well moulded and accurate (I assume) brake rigging.

 

Looking at the Brassmasters kit pictures the other night, I can see that this would be a better option, having more and better detail. It does cost more mind but you pays your money...

Edited by brossard
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LOL give me a break Pete, it took me nigh on 2 years to do the tender. The loco is as it was out of the box. I shall watch this thread to see your progress - it'll be interesting to see how the Brassmasters kit compares. I did actually take pics of the build as it progressed.

 

I transferred the Bachmann electrical gubbins into this tender.

 

John

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