Guest JRCModelRailways Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I am planning a layout, which will be around 4ft by 2ft and this will be my first layout so I wanted a small layout to build on my skills and see where I need to improve. But I do not know what the best type of wood to use for a baseboard. I have look at various sources but they all say different types, and I wanted to know what you guys have used for you layouts. Could you also tell me if your have had any problems with the type of wood that you have used please. Thank you for reading this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 It is not just a simple choice of what wood for the baseboard surface you need to also consider the frames. Also if you just want a completely flat surface or you intend to have some conours and then consider if it is better to use an open frame design (only have the flat bit under the trackbed). However, plywood of 9mm is usually the best and preferred wood to use. But I have used 6mm MDF with success. But would steer well clear of Sundeala and chipboard. The former because it is rubbish the latter because it is heavy and for a portable layout that is not what you need. Hardboard is good for backscenes but is useless for the baseboard (too hard, too flexible). But there are other options other than wood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted June 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 4, 2012 You could make a simple frame from 3"x1" braced at 1 foot intervals topped with your choice, or you could use 9mm ply cut into 100mm strips and screwed together with blocks. As Kenton has already typed, it comes down to what you want to do on top that matters, think of your track plan first then that will decide for you whether a board of "flat earth" will suffice or you need an open frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I would agree with the above, 6 or 9mm ply is good [if quality ply is used], but I have also used 6mm MDF with no problems. Both have there plus sides, and it also depends on the support used. If it is 'normal' constuction, then approx 2" x 1" should be ok. If you want 'open' type, then look at 'L' girder construction. I would recommend sealing the finished board before starting the layout, especially if it is to be used for exhibitions, as the constant changes of temp and humidity won't do it any favours. Good luck, Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodshaw Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 My current layout is made from 6mm ply braced with 2x1. I have also used chipboard (because I had some in the garage) - flat as a pancake, didn't warp - and 3/4 inch thick balsa wood. Balsa is expensive but I like it - light but sturdy (oddly, it's classed as a hardwood). But I could only get it in 4 inch strips, so I had to put several pieces together lengthwise, braced with further strips laterally. It's easily cut and drilled, and takes pins and PVA glue well, but you can't reliably screw things into it. I might well use it again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 I only use 6mm exterior quality ply (flat earth),pinned, and glued with 'Resin W' and nothing else. Sealed with sanding sealer, any thing else is just too susceptible to damp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 My experiences will go largely against the run of other opinions I suspect. I use 5mm ply, sourced from the local DIY superstore, braced with softwood batons. My baseboards are kept in the garage and I've never experienced warping or any damp problems. I think your comment about sources all saying different types will be mirrored here - everyone has their own preferences and experiences. You could always move away from wood and consider foamboard or even cardboard. Just consider what sort of factors you need to take into account - damp, lightness, what you're going to put on it, etc, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted June 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2012 I too find 6mm or even 4mm ply fine. I have also found that 33mmx18mm softwood bracing is fine provided you reject any warped bits. However I do find diagonal bracing essential to stop twist. One thing with ply store it flat, leaving resting against the wall is a recipe for twist and once in the ply it is hard to remove. The picture shows the underside of a baseboard for 0 gauge. I have found that wood from a builders merchant tends to be better from B&Q. Do make sure it is exterior quality ply. The frame size is 4ftx2ft6in max Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted June 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2012 The 4ftx2ft module I took to SWAGday was topped with 5mm ply (sealed both sides) with a 3"x1' (nominal) softwood frame at sides and ends only and with a couple of 2"x1"(nominal) stiffeners set underneath at at an angle to each other. It was fully twist resistant before anything else was added but the roadbed was also 2"x1" timber which further stiffened it up. Seen below with diagonal bracing being glued in and heavily weighted while the glue sets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWales Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I only use 6mm exterior quality ply (flat earth),pinned, and glued with 'Resin W' and nothing else. Sealed with sanding sealer, any thing else is just too susceptible to damp. Agreed! Use 9mm marine ply here as it's cheaper! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I'm planning my new layout on 16mm ply from an old wardrobe I dismantled, that just happens to be the right size. I was thinking of building the real thing on extruded polystyrene, but I'm very tempted to use the ply as it's so solid. It's heavy, but I don't think there will be many opportunities to take it to exhibitions where I live. It certainly wouldn't need much bracing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
£1.38 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 With the rising cost, weight and the risk of warping of ply, I am surprised that foam is not considered more often these days for baseboard tops. It is very smooth and warp-free if properly supported, easy to cut and very light. There seems to be a very strong resistance to using materials other than wood, which I don't understand. My experience with ply suggests that anything under 9mm will droop, unless you put lots of bracing underneath. Even if it does not droop under its own weight, it definitely bends under the weight of trains and scenery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Perhaps if you buy cheap plywood from the likes of B&Q, otherwise good quality ply very rarely warps if treated afterwards. Used it now for 30 years on about 6 layouts so far no trouble.In the past I'd always used marine ply, but on my last visit to the local wood merchant ( frequented, and recommended to me by all the local good quality master-builders), he advised me that the new exterior ply he had in was just as good, if not better, than marine quality. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRealistic Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I'd really like to try out the extruded polystyrene, but after exhaustive attempts I haven't been able to track any down locally (30 miles radius). What 'concerns' me is how you attach turnout units/motors underneath. Ply is nice 'cause you simply screw 'em safely in place. How have you managed £1.38? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
£1.38 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Perhaps if you buy cheap plywood from the likes of B&Q, otherwise good quality ply very rarely warps if treated afterwards. Used it now for 30 years on about 6 layouts so far no trouble.In the past I'd always used marine ply, but on my last visit to the local wood merchant ( frequented, and recommended to me by all the local good quality master-builders), he advised me that the new exterior ply he had in was just as good, if not better, than marine quality. My problem with ply is not warping due to dampness, but natural settling that 6mm ply seems to have and bending under the weight of scenery, trains etc, unless supported at frequent intervals. 9mm ply seems to be far more self-supporting and requires less support from underneath, so the underside of the baseboard is clearer for point motors etc. I'd really like to try out the extruded polystyrene, but after exhaustive attempts I haven't been able to track any down locally (30 miles radius). What 'concerns' me is how you attach turnout units/motors underneath. Ply is nice 'cause you simply screw 'em safely in place. How have you managed £1.38? Several suppliers deliver by carrier. Any DIY store should have foam panels for roof insulation. For point mechanisms, just make a small recess in the foam and stick a piece of ply in where the motor has to go, with No More Nails or PVA. It worked very well on my old layout and I fully intend to do the same with the new one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRealistic Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Several suppliers deliver by carrier. Any DIY store should have foam panels for roof insulation. For point mechanisms, just make a small recess in the foam and stick a piece of ply in where the motor has to go, with No More Nails or PVA. It worked very well on my old layout and I fully intend to do the same with the new one. You must be lucky, as, as I said, none of the DIY stores sell the 'right stuff' down here... nor even builder's merchants. I've tried the lot! Not really after much, as I'd like to try it first, so having an odd board delivered isn't on... ... but from what you say about attaching point mechanisms underneath, this does seem a lot of hassle with more than 20 points involved and probably doubling the potential for misalignments along the way! Thinking I'll be a 'traditionalist' and stick with 9mm marine ply! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7APT7 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Hi All I agree with those that have said to use 9mm marine ply... especially if it is to go out on the road to exhibitions...etc for the home, I would try and put it where temp's are more constantly levels give or take the odd Decree... Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Q Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Two Things,, B&Q now sell Polystyrene that is mostly grey and claims to be treated against fire and secondly, Is this the type of foam that was being recommended http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__Polyurethane_Foam_Sheet_417.html. If so they Deliver, I've used this company many times and found them to be very reliable, and normally cheap. though I've not compared the prices for this type of foam The Q Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 With respect, the OT did ask, what is the best wood material for a baseboard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.