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Mayshill - GWR


Jules
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Hi Jules, great to see all the progress on your layout. I really like the shunting sequence above.

 

Your attention to detail makes all the difference, I think. Eg the point levers, which actually makes the points look like points!

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Mayshill looks like a lovely layout. I am just about to restart my railway modelling also. Like you, I have a love of those bucolic GWR settings and don't give a monkeys about the naysayers! Having dithered for too long and with a history of N, O and EM modelling [not to your high standards,] I was persuaded to build with 00 Fine scale using Peco code 75 since reading an article stating that there aren't many folk who can distinguish between 00FS, Em or P4. I have to say that your track looks spot on, particularly the ballast and weathered rails. I will follow your progress with interest. Thank you for taking the trouble to post your super work.

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:blush:  Thank you both for those jolly nice words - although I am generally quite pleased with the way the layout looks, I do look at it and see a quite lot of things i would like to improve (probably the next layout!!).  All of the stock could do with a bit of weathering (nothing to grubby mind, this is the GW after all!), and there is still work to do such as adding more trees and shrubbery, notice boards, a few more people, finishing off the signalling etc.  Hmmm perhaps I'd better make a proper list and get on with some of those tasks :) 

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 All of the stock could do with a bit of weathering (nothing to grubby mind, this is the GW after all!).......

 

Don't be taken in by that myth Jules.

 

The GWR looked pretty filthy and tatty in places durin the 1930's/40's.  Have a look at some of Norman Lockett's work from that period.  You'll see what I mean.

 

Beautiful layout though with a nice eye for detail.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Jules

 

I like the way you've mounted the crane on the brick base, looks good. From the angle of the photos it looks like you have created some useful space - room for a few odds and ends perhaps?

 

Les

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Hi Les,

 

Thanks for the comment, there is indeed a bit of space there now.

 

I think the area needs a bit of finishing off to take away the overall greyness, and a bit of clutter/boxes/whatever, although I don't want to overdo it and make it too cluttered, if that makes sense!  I think maybe a horse-drawn cart waiting to be loaded/unloaded might add something a bit different.

 

Cheers

 

Jules

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Hi Jules, I have just found this and had a quick look through, the pics look very nive and I do like the idea of the yard crane on the plinth.

 

Superb modelling, well done.

 

Andy

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 I don't want to overdo it and make it too cluttered, if that makes sense!

 Prefer the plinth for the crane.  Looks great.  It does need clutter and clutter is no cliche - things in the middle of open spaces "attract" clutter and people.

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  • 1 month later...

Another small improvement has taken place!  I haven't touched the layout for about four weeks, the combination of the heat making being outside preferable, a weeks holiday and other interruptions have left little time for modelling, and when I did have some time I wasn't in the mood.

 

So, as it was a bit wet on Sunday, and I had a bit of motivation, I thought I would tackle one of the jobs on the improvement/to do list.

 

After adding a couple of signals (see earlier posts if you missed the excitement!), I believe it was Captain Kernow who pointed out that the starting signal off the end of the platform was a bit too tall (bit like me!), as shown in the pics below.

b2.JPG.203fc6d1d956b65b641dc0b4186c58ee.JPG

 

b1.JPG.c1d55fb9c1a2433f191505b8432f95b3.JPG

 

 

I found I had a spare signal lying around in a box, so chopped the post down a bit to reduce the height, as shown in the following pics.

s2.JPG.c067710631984b3a102b941bfafd9e63.JPG

 

 

 

s1.JPG.a5d48cdb273d5ee2b36f185d60f7d583.JPG

I think it might still be slightly too tall, but I think it is an improvement on the previous signal.

Edited by Jules
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I haven't done anything on the layout since the last update - I've just been enjoying operating it.

 

What I have done recently is an attempt to improve the Hornby Railroad GW brake coach, inspired by a post on here - I think it was on Wencombe.

 

It basically consists on slimming down the black ends so they fit between the sides rather than on the end of them, replacing the long molded handrails with wire and replacing the roof vents.

 

I found in my box of bits a couple of vacuum cylinders, brake hangers and dynamo, so add ed those.  It was only after fixing them in place I realised my schoolboy error - the floor is lowered at that point for the weight!  So the actuating arm had to be removed, but I have left the rest even though it hangs a bit low.  I also replaced the buffers.

 

attachicon.gifcoach1.JPG

 

attachicon.gifcoach2.JPG

 

attachicon.gifcoach3.JPG

 

After studying a few pictures, it looked like the footboards along the length of the coach should be a bit higher, not along the bottom edge, so I removed the molded ones and added new ones about two thirds of the way up.  They looked quite level without the body on...

 

attachicon.gifcoach4.JPG

 

However, once the body was on, it shows a rather obvious bowing towards the centre - the other side is worse so I'm not going to show that!

 

attachicon.gifcoach5.JPG

 

attachicon.gifcoach6.JPG

 

I have yet to do the end hand rails - I've had two attempts but failed to get them right, so I will return to them.

 

So, was it worth the effort?  Parts of it!  I think doing the ends, handrails, roof vents and buffers makes a difference.  I think the rest is perhaps wasted effort, especially as I messed it up a bit.  Still, it's all good experience...

Sorry I missed this Jules I'm glad a I inspired someone to have a go. Just miffed you've done more than I did and a better job. Well done. Sometime I might have a go at the restaurant car.

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Alan,

 

Thanks for the compliment!  

 

As I said in the post you have quoted, it could have been better if i had realised the underframe in the centre was lower to accommodate the weight, which made all the new white metal fittings sit too low, and if I'd got the replacement footboard straight rather than having a gentle curve.  But apart from those issues, I am fairly pleased with it, although I still need to fit the hand rails to the ends, once I have successfully created some!

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Thanks for all the likes :)

 

Thank you Alan and '81C' for the two pointers re the corridor connections.

 

When I was doing the coach Ii thought that they ought to be replaced as well.  I have a horrible feeling that they will be somewhat harder to replace now that the ends are well and truly stuck to the bodies, than if I had done it when the ends were still separate.  Live and learn!

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Thank you for the compliment, I'm glad there might be a few ideas in here that could inspire you!

 

I did the changes to the station building to make it a bit different to the suggested style.  My impression from various pictures of ex GW station buildings is that the largest proportion had flat canopies, and slate roofs, rather than the Castle Cary style.  I still need to finish it off with signs for the booking office, waiting room etc - the Tiny Signs (I think thats who I used for the other signs) didn't include these, there was a Gentlemans Waiting Room and Booking Office/Waiting Room which seemed a bit of an odd selection.  I need to experiment with the printer to try and print some.   

 

Another task to add to the 'finishing off list', which seems to keep growing!

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Hi Simon

 

Thanks for the compliment.

 

You have described the cassette operation perfectly!  I have attached a couple of pics that show what you describe.

 

This pic shows the cassette butted up against the layout - the wires taking power to the croc clips can also be seen.

post-148-0-60106700-1376829445_thumb.jpg

 

View along the layout showing the croc clips on the end of the cassette.

post-148-0-09005300-1376829438_thumb.jpg

 

I want to replace the cassettes, as they are a bit too narrow, which makes changing wagons a bit fiddly.  I leave the coaches and loco on the cassette and just lift the whole cassette and turn it, being careful not to catch the curtain!

 

The wood on all bar one of the cassettes has warped slightly, so under the end that connects to the layout, there is a strip of removable card to ensure the rails are as close to the same height as possible, although one rail usually ends up a bit higher or lower than its adjacent one.

 

I did think the croc clips might mangle the rail ends, but there is very little damage in almost four years of use.

 

Cheers

 

Jules

 

Edited by Jules
Images lost - not on HDD
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An alternative cassette system uses aluminium (or brass) angle section attached to wooden boards.

 

The angle sections are spaced apart the same as the rails (Gauge, 16.5mm for OO) with the raised parts of the "L"on the outside. The inside faces of the sections being used as the running "rails".

 

If small enough section is used, the raised parts only come part way up the rolling stock, meaning that the cassette side walls (if there are any) can be spaced further apart, making stock shuffling a bit easier.

 

The crock clips on wires can be still used, OR, two short sections of angle are attached to the ends of the layout rails, both mechanically and electrically. Then "Bulldog" type clips can be used to both align and connect the power to the cassette.

 

A variation of this latter system using track between the angle sections, has been used on an OO gauge model of the Chester Model Railway Club, Beeton Hough. (I saw this layout earlier this year, a very interesting method...)

 

http://chestermodelrailwayclub.com/Beeton%20Hough.htm

 

This view just about shows the cassettes...

 

http://http://chestermodelrailwayclub.com/yorkeroad1.jpg

Edited by Sarahagain
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Hi Simon

 

As mentioned in my previous reply, the only problems I have got is some slight warping  of the wood, and the part they are a bit too narrow.  I don't think I would want them any longer than they are (3ft), as they are a bit unwieldy to rotate.  If/when I remake them, I would make them a bit wider, and probably make the sides a bit lower, I don't think they really need to be that high.  

 

After saying all that, I have been using them for almost four years as built, so there's obviously nothing inherently wrong with them else I would have modified them by now!

 

There are other methods (as Sarah has described in her useful post above), but mine were quick to make - the base strip and sides were straight from B&Q, bit of glue on each side of the base, a couple of pins through each side, whack whack and the sides are attached!!  Leave to dry, pin the track down and off you go!

 

Hope that helps,

 

Jules

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