MarkNewZealand Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hi All Finally I have the space (although limited) and the time to get started on something i've wanted to do since i was a youngster back in the UK. Well after many months of reading, looking at the fantastic pictorials of everybodys work and finding out where things can go wrong I've embarked on my first ever layout. It's purely fictional and artistic licence will be used so apologies in advance for the purists out there. The available space was minimal and was broken by a door access and the wife needing to park the car in the garage. After starting out designing a narrow shunting shelf layout I felt it wouldn't offer enough longevity. I settled on a wall mounted fold out design comprising of two main boards, a drop in joining based board and a bolt on revolving fiddle yard (enter/exit left end of layout). It will be DCC running all track operations and point motors. The aim is to have signals and lighting run on DC. It really has been a steep learning curve so far and my old woodwork teacher would be amazed at my progress, but i'm loving every minute. More too come. Cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Construction started in March 2012 and my biggest fear was cutting square joints and mitres using a block and handsaw. Without accurate woodworking I knew it would be an uphill battle. So without too much arm twisting to myself I purchased a friendly little helper made by Ryobi. So far it has been an absolute god send. The original plan for the wall box construction was to have two girder plates to hang the box on (as per the pictures). During construction using 18mm MDF I decided that their was too much weight. I came to the conclusion that by using legs to support the weight I could also add some shelving for storage. The storage legs were made from 44mm * 44mm PSE and the left over run-throughs of MDF were used for the shelves. Once the legs and shelves were completed I removed the top girder as it was no longer required. To secure the box frame to the wall i used 50mm L shaped brackets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Construction continued and the second girder support and shelving got underway. The two walls were slightly out so using the string ensured proper alignment. The second wall box frame was constructed with a little help from the wall girder. The box frame joints were pre-drilled prior to gluing and screwing, this stopped the MDF ends from splitting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 The first baseboard was constructed using 40 x 18 PSE with a 12mm plywood top. An adjustable mitre frame was used to ensure the outer frame was held square while it was pre drilled, counter-sunk, screwed and glued. The plywood top was then fitted and by the same method as the frame. Next step was to install the cross braces using the same technique. One thing that was top of my mine was the issues members had when fixing cross-bracing then finding out it was right underneath where a point motor should go. Using Anyrail i constructed a grid over the layout plan to work out the correct positions. The legs were constructed using the same 40 x 18 PSE with cross bracing to give stability. Foot brackets were on order from Stationroadbaseboards.co.uk but hadn't arrived by the time of construction. They would allow baseboard to sit level. I'm still working out whether to use a detachable rod or chain to hold the legs in the correct position. The baseboard was then attached to the box frame using 50mm baseboard butt hinges. Shortly after completion all of the track components, point motors and wiring arrived from the Hereford Model Centre (My old home town). Things were now really starting to take shape. Thoughts then started turning to underlay or no underlay. The forum was full of differing opinions but I finally settled on cork. Finding cork on a roll was proving difficult so i ended up using 4mm cork tiles from Bunnings (A DIY shed). pics to follow in next post. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artizen Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 This is clever. Is there any way of closing the gap between the base and the walls of the storage frame? Dust in my garage would kill any layout left out there for any length of time. Maybe extend the top roof section forward slightly to keep stuff from falling into the layout area? How wide are the baseboards? 1200mm? Too many questions! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 I don't have an issue with dust so that wasn't a concern in the setup but i totally undertsand what you mean. Thinking about it what you could do is create a rebate in the base of the box frame to incorporate the plate and the hinge itself. I believe that would close up the gap. In saying that though you'll always have a small gap all around. To close off the gap you could look at a narrow flat bristle strip used for excluding draughts. That would create a nice seal all the way around. The baseboards are 1000mm wide. That was based on the available space/arc between the horizontal track for the garage door and the front frame (as in the picture) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Interesting concept and look forward to seeing it develop. Are you going to have anything to keep the legs in place when they're "in use"? Or are the hinges strong enough to stop them moving about and the board possibly collapsing? That interesting power tool for cutting square timber ends - what's it called please? Woodwork is definitely my weakest point too so anything that can assist in square joints might well be a good investment - and I have a birthday coming up soon... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
witherbrow Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 fantasic carpentry there Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Interesting concept and look forward to seeing it develop. Are you going to have anything to keep the legs in place when they're "in use"? Or are the hinges strong enough to stop them moving about and the board possibly collapsing? That interesting power tool for cutting square timber ends - what's it called please? Woodwork is definitely my weakest point too so anything that can assist in square joints might well be a good investment - and I have a birthday coming up soon... I have added some adjustable feet brackets which i have purchased from stationroadbaseboards.co.uk They have definately made the legs stable as they have round feet that pivot to take any changes in the floor. I'm currently tossing up between a chain to limit the leg movement or a removable steel rod or plate that will lock the legs in place. I'll take some pictures of the baseboard feet tomorrow and post them. The power tool is called a compound sliding mitre saw. It can cut to a width of 305mm and 80mm depth. It can cut square and angles from 0-90 degrees. It can also do bevel cuts 0-45 degrees. When you are doing a lot of cuts it's an absolute god-send. I would never have got the consistent results i've achieved without it. I would recommend that you get a sliding instead of a fixed one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 fantasic carpentry there Thanks for that. The carpentry was my 2nd biggest fear after wiring, but following a lot of research on the internet and a talk to a carpenter I knew i felt more confident. As per my previous email, the purchase of the sliding compound mitre saw has certainly made a mediocre woodworker look pretty good. Makes a change from the workman blaming the tools. Cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Something like this? http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb239msw-254mm-double-bevel-sliding-mitre-saw-230v/61027?cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Tools-_-Erbauer%20ERB239MSW%20254mm%20Double%20Bevel%20Sliding%20Mitre%20Saw%20230V&gclid=CNvzmcGo5LACFUdItAodNglPuw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hi Mark, What a fascinating concept, good on you! You've taken the "no room for a layout" moan and turned it on it's head with so unique a design for baseboards & storage, I wonder how many will have the courage to borrow your ideas? I shall enjoy observing your progress, Cheers, John E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve O. Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hi Mark, Looks great. Very impressed by the structure and 'finding room' for a layout. Before you start laying track, I recommend that you run through some train movements to get an idea of how the operation will 'flow'. The one that caught my eye was that the kick-back road 'D' leading to the bottom half of the plan is a lot shorter than the oil roads 'E' and 'F' so you may have a lot of back and forth. Another may be to add a cross-over to form another run-around loop just below the factories top right. Will follow with interest, Cheers, Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Something like this? http://www.screwfix....CFUdItAodNglPuw Yes, that's the sort of thing. Perfect if your freehand sawing isn't that great, like mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Some excellent carpentry there Mark, and a very good use of space. Nice track plan to. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hi Mark, What a fascinating concept, good on you! You've taken the "no room for a layout" moan and turned it on it's head with so unique a design for baseboards & storage, I wonder how many will have the courage to borrow your ideas? I shall enjoy observing your progress, Cheers, John E. Hi John Thanks for your post. Well you know the saying 'where there's a will theres a way'! I went through quite a number of design scenarios using inspiration from this site and model rail publications. The concept was developed from how people use lift up access boards. It's just lateral thinking on a design solution already in place. One thing that has come as a spin off from the design is the ease of wiring the first board up. After soldering the droppers on to the underside of the rails they can be fed through the baseboard. After doing a run of droppers i can flip the board back up and lock it in place. Attaching the droppers to the bus wires is easy and as a bonus no crouching and the resulting sore back and neck. Pictures to follow. Cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hi Mark, Looks great. Very impressed by the structure and 'finding room' for a layout. Before you start laying track, I recommend that you run through some train movements to get an idea of how the operation will 'flow'. The one that caught my eye was that the kick-back road 'D' leading to the bottom half of the plan is a lot shorter than the oil roads 'E' and 'F' so you may have a lot of back and forth. Another may be to add a cross-over to form another run-around loop just below the factories top right. Will follow with interest, Cheers, Steve. Hi Steve Thanks for your observations. It's always good to get a fresh pair of eyes offering some pointers. My thoughts were that instead of having long rakes of oil tankers i'd have 2 or possibly 3 smaller ones. They would come in to the sidings B & C and then be taken to the oil terminal sidings by shunter. The loco/s would then go off for refuelling. The shunter would then take them back to B & C for the loco/s to take them out again. I have to confess i'm not an oficianado when it comes to train operations, so at this stage a bit of back and forth is what i'd planned. Maybe in reality it might drive me nuts? Cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Some excellent carpentry there Mark, and a very good use of space. Nice track plan to. Graham. Cheers Graham I appreciate your comments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 With the baseboard completed it was time to start marking out the track position using peco templates and some freehand drawing skills. The diesel shed lines and fuel lines did change alignment a couple of times. I have also added a single track at the front which will be modelled as an overgrown disussed siding. This will act as the programming track. Please correct me if i'm wrong. but my understanding is that the programming track doesn't actually have to be part of the layout? From what i have read it has to be isolated from the main operating track, so what i've done is pretty much the same? I can't find rolls of cork in NZ so the cork bed are tiles which i purchased from a DIY chain. After marking them out i have bevelled the edges using a scalpel to reach the desired effect. I believe it will give a nice defined shoulder to the ballast once applied. Track pics to follow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve O. Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hi Mark, ....ah, I see. The maunline loco - to - shunter 'hand-off' makes sense. Looking forward to more updates! Cheers, Steve O. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D802 FORMIDABLE Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Not bad for a kiwi Seriously, really nice work mate and i quite like the trackplan. Looks like she will be a lot of fun. Cheers Anthony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Yorkshire Pud Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thats a really good idea Mark !! ...... very clever concept and use of available space. I look forward to following your progress mate. Cheers !! Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Looks like a very nice start Mark. Looking forward to watching the layout develop over the comings weeks. Regards Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Not bad for a kiwi Seriously, really nice work mate and i quite like the trackplan. Looks like she will be a lot of fun. Cheers Anthony Cheers Anthony. Just to give you a bit more ammunition I'm English as well!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNewZealand Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Cheers Yorshire Pud and Brit Farmer. After the initial trepidation of 'where do i start?' I've really been enjoying it. Keep watching for more updates. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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