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As with soldering small detail parts, so with glueing plastic ones, the problem is often holding them in place whilst the joint is made. On the MOGO a number of very small parts need to be added. You can't use a finger - that would be to invite the dreaded etched fingerprints. I found the easiest way to hold down the door hinges whilst applying a brushload of solvent was with the point of a scriber.

 

P1050735-2%20488%20x%20600_zps4shwx7x3.j

 

A 0.8mm drill in a pin-chuck just enlarged the hole for the peg in the back of the part slightly - making for an easier fit. Avoid too much pressure with the scriber - it will either mark the part or send it pinging into the arms of the carpet monster.

 

These blocks, which supported the drop-down flaps with a curved cut-away to rest on the buffers are tricky to fit.

 

P1050736-2%20600%20x%20328_zpsq2d3g6nc.j

 

I found gentle pressure with the scriber just caused them to flop over so it was a bit easier to hold them with tweezers.

 

These two clips are what the door catches would engage with when the doors were folded right back.

 

P1050737-2%20600%20x%20498_zps7txl2m9z.j

 

I used the scriber again to hold these in place whilst they were welded with solvent.

 

The scriber in this photo' is pointing at the lamp-iron.

 

P1050739-2%20600%20x%20595_zpsrenpl7i2.j

 

This was also kept in position with the scriber.

 

The Parkside instructions are not particularly helpful on the exact positioning of these parts but a photo' of the real thing sorted it all out. Those hinges are a bit vulnerable and it will be interesting to see if they stay put when the van is in service on Dock Green. I will also need to put some packing under this end of the van when I invert it to detail the other end, otherwise some detail, particularly the hinges, might be dislodged or damaged.

Chaz

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MOGO progress this morning.

 

First forming the small handrails that fit in the ends. Parkside suggest that you do this around a 2mm drill. Try this in your hand and you may struggle (I did). So I worked the drill into an offcut of balsa (any thickish material would do) and held it in the soft-jaws of my bench-vice with just the plain shank showing.

 

P1050740-2%20600%20x%20480_zpstduu3qdf.j

 

I did check a photo' of a MOGO and these handrails were (are?) semi-circular.

 

P1050742-2%20600%20x%20406_zpsjouavcqb.j

 

I drilled the 0.5mm holes right through. It is easier to fit the wire in the holes if you cut the "legs" to different lengths.

 

Here is the van propped up on its buffers with a piece of packing to protect the details on the lower end so that I can detail the other end.

 

P1050743-2%20600%20x%20484_zpslzyuym1k.j

 

A piece of cloth is under the sprue whilst I release a tiny part with several very light slices with the scalpel. deny the carpet monster - these parts are tiny.

 

MOGO assembly nearly finished...

 

P1050745-2%20600%20x%20452_zpsmeb6pnwx.j

 

Photo' shows a plastic spacer in place in between the sides to protect them from a squeeze when being handled (no trace of the sides bowing with this kit). The holes in the spacer? They just happened to be in this offcut - hidden away inside the van they will be of no consequence. You can also see the ends of those two semi-circular handrails, two holes in the floor to allow any solvent fumes to escape and the piece of lead ballast fastened in place with a couple of self-tap screws.

 

It's almost ready for the paint shop, I just have to add the white-metal brake hoses and to fix the roof in place (Buffer rams and couplings will be fitted after painting).

Chaz

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I will also need to put some packing under this end of the van when I invert it to detail the other end, otherwise some detail, particularly the hinges, might be dislodged or damaged.

Remember the sheets of craft foam that I showed you at the Reading Trade Show?

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Remember the sheets of craft foam that I showed you at the Reading Trade Show?

 

I do indeed, and they would certainly have served for this job, however I completed the detail work on the second end without damage with just a plain packing piece to lift the detail away from the worktop.

 

There are always lots of ways to remove the fur from the moggy... :nono:

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Chaz

 

You set me thinking, with your holes in the floor of the van - is MEK vapour more, or less, dense than air?

 

I checked the Wikipedia page and concluded "much denser than air", (about 2.5 times), so presumably holes in the floor are as appropriate as they are easy.

 

I guess if the ventilators actually ventilated, it would be no bad thing.

 

The Mogo's great, and coming together very well - I do like Parkside kits.

 

Best

Simon

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I prefer to fit the roof as the very last step of the assembly of a van. By putting the model upside down on some packing you can avoid it rolling about on the curve of the roof while you work on the underframe.

 

"Attach the vacuum pipes onto the buffer beams using super glue...." say the Parkside instructions. What are the chances of them staying put? I prefer a slightly more robust fixing.

 

P1050746-2%20600%20x%20555_zpssjxj6vhg.j

 

I have drilled the floor either side of the pipe and fitted a staple formed from brass wire.  Once that is glued in place there should be much less risk of the brake pipe coming adrift.

 

Chaz

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I have drilled the floor either side of the pipe and fitted a staple formed from brass wire.  Once that is glued in place there should be much less risk of the brake pipe coming adrift.

 

 

I did think about drilling the bracket part of the casting and fitting a wire pin as well, but the white-metal is so thin and narrow that a hole might well weaken the  joint, not strengthen it.

 

Attention should now switch to the Slater's BR 12T van...

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I prefer to fit the roof as the very last step of the assembly of a van. By putting the model upside down on some packing you can avoid it rolling about on the curve of the roof while you work on the underframe.

 

"Attach the vacuum pipes onto the buffer beams using super glue...." say the Parkside instructions. What are the chances of them staying put? I prefer a slightly more robust fixing.

 

P1050746-2%20600%20x%20555_zpssjxj6vhg.j

 

I have drilled the floor either side of the pipe and fitted a staple formed from brass wire.  Once that is glued in place there should be much less risk of the brake pipe coming adrift.

 

Chaz

A neat solution to an irritating problem that I shall copy.

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Guest Isambarduk

Good plan, Chaz. 

 

I always 'pin and glue', rather than just glue, whenever I can.  A thin pin is unlikely to weaken the component - or, if it does, the component is far too weak already - but it provides a mechanical joint and a greater area for the glue to adhere to.  I often leave the gluing until after the painting stage (makes life easier) and the pin provides a positive location.  In brass, I would usually opt for a 12 BA screw; here is an example of a steam heat pipe and a vacuum pipe on a Stanier 3500 gallon tender:
 

3500gUFrames02.jpg


Note that the axlebox/spring castings are also screwed in place; this makes spray painting and lining the frames in lake and straw, and spray painting the axlebox/spring castings in black, so much easier.

David

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yesterday I did an hour or so on the BR 12T standard van, here are some points which you might find useful.

 

Adding the V hangers to the solebars is easy enough as they locate on moulded pips...

 

P1050753-2%20600%20x%20410_zpspboijjl3.j

 

...but to hold them firmly in place I used the scriber once again.

 

Trying the vacuum cylinder in place it proved to be a slack fit between the frame members.

 

P1050754-2%20600%20x%20462_zpsblwpcfqb.j

 

Probably caused by some slight distortion in the frames or solebar. I welded a scrap of 10 thou' HIP to the mounting on one side. I left this to harden off overnight and then trimmed it to shape.

 

The Moreton brake cam is fixed to the cross wire. I prefer to solder this, using a wood block to keep it square on the end.

 

P1050755-2%20600%20x%20518_zpsbrvtrlm0.j

 

Slater's provide a length of 0.9mm wire to go right through and the cam, brake levers and V hangers need holes to match. There is a useful sketch in the instructions that is worth referring to to get the cam the right way round. It is much easier to drill the cam before you remove it from the fret. In the photo' too much wire protrudes - this was pushed in a little before soldering. The brake lever on the cam side V hanger fits onto a small mould pip on the V - I prefer to drill the V and solder a wire into the handle.

 

P1050756-2%20600%20x%20267_zpsou34ux0q.j

 

The wire can cut to a short peg once it has been soldered. It only need to be just long enough to fit the V hanger. Next task is to fit the brakes. These need to be tried in place and the shoes adjusted until the wheels spin freely.

 

P1050759-2%20600%20x%20411_zpsgbmfcypk.j

 

I found the brakes rubbed on both wheels so I filed some plastic from the shoes with a half-round file - you could use a needle file but I prefer a 4 inch bastard for this job. Of course you need to do both sets of brakes but I do one side at a time so that it's clear which shoes are rubbing and need filing. I marked this set with a black pen so that I can put it back on the same side. In the photo' you can just make out that the RH axle is spinning. You can also see that I have trimmed the packing piece on the vacuum cylinder and welded it in place.

 

Another soldering job is the lever that sits over (sorry - under!) the vacuum cylinder.

 

P1050762-2%20600%20x%20584_zps4qxwsdmg.j

 

I folded this up as per the instructions and then solder the two halves together with a minimum of solder, holding the part in tweezers. Once the flux has been washed away the edges can be filed to remove the tab. Here are the brakes and that lever assembled on the tube which has been cut to length to fit between the V hangers.

 

P1050764-2%20600%20x%20384_zpss7gwhou9.j

 

The brakes need to be drilled 1.6mm to fit on the tube. You can use a cutting broach to make sure the ends of the tube are clear to allow the wire to slide in. The hole in the lever can eased very slightly with a larger cutting broach until it will slide onto the tube - but be careful there is not much metal around the hole and it's easy to tear the brass with too much pressure. I found the easiest way to fit the brakes is to put them on the cross tube (not forgetting that lever goes between them!) and then ease them passed the wheels pushing the moulded spacing blocks firmly against the solebars. The tube can be eased into place between the V hangers and the wire slid through. If you have soldered the cam make sure it is on the right side. Now is the time to check that both axles spin freely - if they don't it's much easier to adjust while the brakes can still be dismantled. I turn the van right way up and roll it on its wheels - this is after all the most important aspect.

 

Chaz

 

PS I don't know if I have mentioned this before but now might be a good time to repeat it.

 

All my photographs have been taken with a Panasonic Lumix compact (so much easier to use than my "serious" Nikon DSLR) and are edited in Lightroom and compressed using PIXresizer. They are hosted on Photobucket.

 

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Chaz,

 

Great job on the wagon. Can you please shed some light (when you get there) on how you intend to paint the wagon. I've just completed my first wagon and feel theres room for improvement on the way I did it. 

 

Dave

 

Yes, David. I will carry the story of the MOGO, the BR 12T van and at least one of the three JLTRT vans right through to completion. You may need to be a bit patient as I intend to paint all five of them as a batch so this will not happen until they are all assembled.

 

Chaz

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Good plan, Chaz.

 

I always 'pin and glue', rather than just glue, whenever I can. A thin pin is unlikely to weaken the component - or, if it does, the component is far too weak already - but it provides a mechanical joint and a greater area for the glue to adhere to. I often leave the gluing until after the painting stage (makes life easier) and the pin provides a positive location. In brass, I would usually opt for a 12 BA screw; here is an example of a steam heat pipe and a vacuum pipe on a Stanier 3500 gallon tender:

 

 

 

3500gUFrames02.jpg

Note that the axlebox/spring castings are also screwed in place; this makes spray painting and lining the frames in lake and straw, and spray painting the axlebox/spring castings in black, so much easier.

David

Hi David,

 

Lovely clean work as usual, could you please tell me where you acquired that small fine chain from , the one that's on the steam heat pipe. I usually resort to some very fine fuse wire twisted a few times, but that chain looks just about spot on .

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

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I have a Slater's van already assembled, which I have either forgotten to add weight to or the weight is insufficient. The roof is too securely fixed to remove without damage but I do want to make it heavier. Is there any reason why I shouldn't pour some fine lead shot (sold as "Liquid Lead") into the van through a hole in the floor and then seal the hole with a patch. Of course the shot will be free to move about inside the van but does that matter? The van has been assembled for a while so any solvent fumes should be long gone and sealing the the ballast inside should not cause a problem. What do you think?

 

Chaz

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Having made a similar oversight some two years ago I used shot embedded in Milliput which I inserted through a (largish!) slot in the floor.  This enabled me to 'tamp' it down, whilst still sticky, and I haven't had any nasties happen to it so far!

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Alternatively cut a hole large enough to thread a condom inside, leave the end out so you can pour the shot inside, tie it off and seal. If you can get a little 5 min Araldite on the floor inside using a right-angled scraper then as the condom settles it'll stick to it and not move around.

 

Chose your condom carefully and you could replicate fresh fruit traffic into Norf Lundun; at exhibitions you might have viewers exclaiming, 'I can actually smell strawberries...!' ;)

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Guest Isambarduk

Thank you, Martyn

" ...could you please tell me where you acquired that small fine chain from ..."
 
Well it's been a while but I seem to recall I bought some at an exhibition, where is was intended for model ship building, but see also www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/model-chain because I think I also bought some this way and, at only £1/m, it lasts a long time. 
 

$_12.JPG

 
For real model boat chain, there is here: www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft_modernchains.html but it is more expensive.
 

65422_01.jpg


Searches on the internet will bring you a good deal of choice; happy hunting.

 

David

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Guest Isambarduk

"Is there any reason why I shouldn't pour some fine lead shot ..."

 

Well, it's your van, Chaz, so you may do as you wish!  However, I would find that rather unsatisfactory and I would prefer to cut up bits of lead flashing to fit within and between the frames and solebars of the van.

 

David

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I now have an image of Chaz's van overrunning on shunts as the shot rolls forward. Probably wouldn't happen but I do think when handling it could weaken one of the body joints. Since for opens I have used small bit in the chassis frame I would do the same for the Van.

Don

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I fear loose shot would be an unmitigated nuisance. It would be noisy, and I guarantee it will get out, and then it'll be all over the place.

 

Options that could be considered are

 

Mix it with PVA and pour it into the van through a smallish hole, I'm sure you won't fill the van, so if it does expand, it'll have room, and shouldn't dismantle your van. You can block the hole with blu tak or plasticine whilst the glue sets, and then remove the bung to leave a ventilation hole as previously discussed. You'll obviously want the van the right way up whilst the glue sets, or its centre of gravity will be unfeasibly high.

 

Ditto but use casting resin or epoxy. (See my PD thread, loco weights for the King, somewhere in the late summer)

 

Either of the above, but restrict your application of the resultant goo to the spaces between the solebars.

 

Cut a fairly large hole in the floor, insert chunks of lead (tyre weights, flashing?) and glue inside wagon - probably epoxy I guess.

 

Best

Simon

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"Is there any reason why I shouldn't pour some fine lead shot ..."

 

Well, it's your van, Chaz, so you may do as you wish!  However, I would find that rather unsatisfactory and I would prefer to cut up bits of lead flashing to fit within and between the frames and solebars of the van.

 

David

 

Well I have gots lots of lead flashing having grabbed a couple of big offcuts when we had some work done on the roof ("I'll have those, as I have paid for 'em!"). However it's going to take quite a lot of work to do it your way. I should have said the van is an insulated one (a white one), without ventilators, so that apart from the two breathing holes which I drilled in the floor to allow those naughty solvent fumes to escape it is a sealed box. I can't see any real problem with the shot being loose inside, I just wondered if there might be an unforseen one - I think I will go ahead and try it - if it is a disaster I can open up one of the holes and shake out the ballast.

 

Chaz

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I fear loose shot would be an unmitigated nuisance. It would be noisy, and I guarantee it will get out, and then it'll be all over the place.

 

Options that could be considered are

 

Mix it with PVA and pour it into the van through a smallish hole, I'm sure you won't fill the van, so if it does expand, it'll have room, and shouldn't dismantle your van. You can block the hole with blu tak or plasticine whilst the glue sets, and then remove the bung to leave a ventilation hole as previously discussed. You'll obviously want the van the right way up whilst the glue sets, or its centre of gravity will be unfeasibly high.

 

Ditto but use casting resin or epoxy. (See my PD thread, loco weights for the King, somewhere in the late summer)

 

Either of the above, but restrict your application of the resultant goo to the spaces between the solebars.

 

Cut a fairly large hole in the floor, insert chunks of lead (tyre weights, flashing?) and glue inside wagon - probably epoxy I guess.

 

Best

Simon

 

"I fear loose shot would be an unmitigated nuisance. It would be noisy, and I guarantee it will get out, and then it'll be all over the place."

 

OK Simon - I accept the challenge! Noisy? Only if I use the van to play maraccas - an unlikely event.  Will it get out? We will see! If it does I will certainly 'fess up on here.

 

After a previous disaster I won't be using a lead shot and PVA combination for anything - once bitten...

 

Chaz

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Alternatively cut a hole large enough to thread a condom inside, leave the end out so you can pour the shot inside, tie it off and seal. If you can get a little 5 min Araldite on the floor inside using a right-angled scraper then as the condom settles it'll stick to it and not move around.

 

Chose your condom carefully and you could replicate fresh fruit traffic into Norf Lundun; at exhibitions you might have viewers exclaiming, 'I can actually smell strawberries...!' ;)

 

Hang on, my leg is quite long enough already, thank you!

 

Sorry - I did ask - I know, but I couldn't see a problem arising and just wondered if anyone else could. Simon's suggestion that it might leak out could be one - it remains to be seen.

 

Chaz

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I did wonder at the "aroma of strawberries"...

 

I think my preferred option would be liquid lead and epoxy, only on the underside, between the solebars.

 

I do think loose shot will be irritatingly noisy, but I guess you'll find out early :)

 

Best

Simon

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