trisonic Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I'm preparing a small photographic diorama and to save scratch building want to try the "Small Engine Depot" - which can be built "one stall" or two. Are these kits worthwhile? They seem pretty cheap but I don't see any alternative kits for modern facilities that are also small. Unless you know better.... Cheers, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetuk Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Pete If you go back to my 'Galatia' thread the loco depot I've used is a single stall Pikestuff kit so you can get an idea of what they can look like made up (as well as T&W Land & Feed industry for that matter) Big advantage is they are v flexible and are perfect for kitbashing into other configurations with door / window openings half moulded in the insides. The moulding on the wall / roof panels and doors and windows are nice an crisp and make a good base to add further detail as you see fit e.g. Walthers or Unit Models aircon units. My one bit of advice having put a couple of kits together is a) read the instuctions to fully understand how the roof / gutter arrangement works and B) build it with plenty of bracing and, ideally and plasticard floor to keep the walls straight - as always patience pays dividends Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 They aren't bad, they represent that metal sided type of building very well, they are very modular, so customising options are good. The tooling is pretty sharp as well considering they've been around a bit. I'd agree with Dan on the bracing too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reitbok Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I would agree with all of the above, and would only add that they appear cheap because they have been around awhile and haven't had the price increases of newer kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted June 27, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2012 I have built and 'bashed' these kits. I certainly can confirm the need for bracing on larger models. Another tip is when cutting out doors and windows use a very sharp knife and change the blade frequently, a blunt blade will tend to wander and even a sharp blade will dull very quickly. I now use a box cutter with 'snap-off' blades for the type of plastic used by Pikestuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Many thanks, guys! I'll give it a go (probably put in a false ceiling or triangular braces as it will be a single stall). Cheers, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted June 27, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2012 One last tip, use liquid poly (unless you intend to dismantle it at any time). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Phil, Even for the bracing? Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1 Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Phil, Even for the bracing? Best, Pete. Yes. steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Thanks! Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I'm working on a Pikestuff 3-stall shed at the moment... except it'll be a one-track freight depot with 3-dock truck terminal next to it by the time I've finished... P.S. They may be cheap across the Pond; here they suffer from VAT & Shipping, and limited availability, even via Ebay.... ho hum..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 I use good quality artist's mounting board (cardboard) for all my interior bracing and floors. I had warping issues with plasticard bracing after a couple of years of taking the layout out of the cellar and taking it to warm exhibition halls. Ventilating the building (open window, tubular chimney, hole from under the baseboard) will also help with air circulation and reducing warp factor 3 Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted June 28, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2012 I used off cuts from the cutting out of doors and windows for bracing. On the larger kits Pikestuff provide strips of ABS plastic for use as reinforcement, I have never had any problems with warpage. It is essential to get the building 'square', to do this I assemble the models on a piece of glass over a sheet of graph paper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetuk Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 In the UK Modern Stuctures in Miniature have had a good decent range in the past Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxmoore Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Here's some Pikestuff kits that I used to build a car repair facility on Steve Smith's modules. From experience, I braced them really well, top and bottom, with square styrene rod that runs along the bottom of all the walls, and which is cemented onto the styrene "concrete" base. Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Pete, have you thought about building your dio to the uk freemo/RS Tower modular standard. That way, if you ever do come back to the UK, you could use it as part of a proper railway Ps, hope your wife is enjoying the football! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Ooh, may do, Jon. I'm planning on a mainline segment - single track - but at a higher elevation crossing at a slight angle (just for interest), a small MOW Dept (or anything really) forms the main part... Where do I get the specs from? Only issue is that this will be a "found" layout using bits of timber from around the house..... Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Module specs are here: http://rstowerfreemo.wordpress.com/module-info/module-specifications/ or can be accessed from the links in Martyn(GloriousNSE)'s sigs. Essentially they only relate to Module end plates and "main track" specs, as well as electrics and height stuff that you could reasonably ignore until needed. Gives much freedom on shape etc, so using "found" timber as a source shouldn't be a problem. Anyway, have a look and see what you think. Some idea of what can be achieved is here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/58086-rs-tower-modules-exeter-mrs-2324-june-2012/ http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57511-grunge-street-crossing/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
signalmaintainer Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 They aren't bad, they represent that metal sided type of building very well, they are very modular, so customising options are good. The tooling is pretty sharp as well considering they've been around a bit. I'd agree with Dan on the bracing too! Ditto for me, Pete. They're quite versatile for kitbashing, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted June 30, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 30, 2012 I kitbashed one of their factory kits to a low relief factory/warehouse that is almost two feet long. Sorry no photographs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted June 30, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2012 P.S. They may be cheap across the Pond; here they suffer from VAT & Shipping, and limited availability, even via Ebay.... ho hum..... ...Also there's the very variable 'duty/handling' charges raised by Royal Mail for packets from the US. I've been charged GBP20+ (almost the cost of that particular item!) or not charged at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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