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Lift out baseboard section


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Go for belt and braces construction. This is one area where old-fashioned two-by-one, or even three-by-one timber framing is better than currently trendy plywood or MDF because it will come in for rougher treatment than "normal" baseboards.

If you have a choice, I would also advise a hinged flap rather than a complete lift-out section. A hinged flap can get dropped (hence the need for belt and braces construction) but it cannot get dropped onto the floor, which a lift out section can.

Finally, rig up a microswitch or something that cuts power to the track approaching the flap when it is raised so a train cannot inadvertantly be driven into a yawning chasm.

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Having built one a few weeks ago have a look at this , it may be of use .

 

As it will not be part of the scenic area it was built with 2x1 and 4mm ply .

 

The four bolts are fitted in such a way as to be a slightly force fit in the housings

to effect a good alignment

 

Power transfer through the push fit type blocks and wired such that when the board is not in

position the approach tracks are dead , so no nose diving of loco's and stock .

 

I had to have the track on a slight curve to get the required radius in , the copper clad was laid in two strips

up to the joint and fitted as tightly as possible , then the track was laid with the reqired number of sleepers removed ,

then it was all soldered up , and finally the track was cut with a razor saw to minimise any gap .

 

So far it has worked perfectly with no derailments despite the curve .

 

 

The photos should show how it was done but if you need any more info just shout .

 

post-6765-0-39472900-1340910929.jpg

 

post-6765-0-14027300-1340910860.jpg

 

post-6765-0-40318200-1340910957.jpg

 

post-6765-0-30930900-1340910978.jpg

 

post-6765-0-95799400-1340911010.jpg

 

post-6765-0-69040300-1340911035.jpg

Edited by Sidecar Racer
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Many years ago the loft layout had a removable section above the access hatch. Power was via brass strips. The board was about 1" thick. For the distance perhaps a solid thick board is better than a thin one with framing.

 

If I did it now as I'm DCC the locating bolts would be used to carry power feed to the moveable board. For DC use a multiway plug and socket - have plug on moveable section so that there are minimal loose cables on it.

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Thanks for the info & photos. Mine was going to be part of the scenic section albeit fairly short in width so was aiming to make it as lightweight as possible but as you've all stated this might not be a good idea given the knocks it might have to take.

Regards,

Andy

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Always fix the track on one side only , on t' other leave so it can be tweaked slightly by using a washer and screw on the last few inches. any movement in the wood may need adjustment facility. computer 'D' plugs always useful for connections rather than strip connectors. Beeman.

Edited by beeman
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Beeman can you explain further how the washer and screw are arranged for tweeking? I have had difficulty in the past with the tracks going out of alignment over time, and you may have the solution to my problem.

 

Thanks

Colin

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I am assuming you will use lengths of flexi track. or at least would need around 6ins or more at the ends when a small screw and washer is used to screw down with the washer clamping the last couple of sleepers.make sure its small enough on diameter NOT to foul wheel flanges, or file 'flats' on oposing sides.. This will allow some lateral movement for alignment if adjustment is needed. you are only looking to move fractional mm max. But sufficient to stop derailment. This would perhaps be best on the drop down, fixing the track 'permanent' on the actual baseboard. It is surprising how things move slightly due to temp/humidity. If you ballast/PVA your track, generally it wont shift once setting solid, not tried the Copydex option myself but users suggest it makes quieter running, resilient rather than solid. worth doing a few sample tests to satisfy which you feel happy with. Re the pics posted by Mike,, I would fit the two battens on which the bridge 'sits' a fraction low, always easy to adjust the bridge up/down with a bit of thin card on the batten, the bolts where there is no need to have to disguise if wanting to scenic the bridge. and why fit the baseboards inside the frame edge supports rather than on the top. This means if intending to scenic there will be TWO joints to hide rather than one. Sorry, just advising. we often learn by mistakes. Cheers Beeman.

 

Attached a pic of the 'adjustment' capability fitted to my VSU. . using both washers and plates, hope it helps

 

Edited by beeman
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This is a topic that is occupying my thoughts somewhat. Most of 'The layout that is to come' is likely going to be the final major project, and I would like to be able to operate it for as many years as I am allocated. So while at the moment happy with a 'duck under' access, I am going to build in provision for a lift out section to provide upright walking access should the spinal bendiness fail in later years. My thoughts are tending to 'battleship' construction for the support pillars either side of the door opening, supporting relatively lightweight ply box construction for the track base either side and as the lift out bridge section. (The game plan is to install a permanent pulley system to lift the bridge out and in.) What I won't do is cut through the rails, until such time as lift out becomes a necessity.

 

While the stuctural elements will move with temperature and humidity changes, provided the track base sections are of uniform constructional style, they should move in like fashion thus maintaining alignment between themselves. Having the approach sections supported by, but not attached to the support pillars either side of the door, should mean that any movement there is taken up evenly over all three pieces. I have used an inferior form of this construction on my hastily thrown together present trial layout, and it has coped while the building was uninsulated over a temperature range of 55C, and a roof leak which more than dampened a third of the construction, and the OO trains have stayed on the track nonetheless. But the rails are continuous of course, perhaps I ought to solder the rail ends to brass screws set in the track support, and the cut the rails, then test through a year of thermal and humidity cycling...

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  • 7 years later...

I'm sorry to dig up old posts but I'm at a loss as to why ensuring current is passed to the track section that's mounted on the removable section seems so complex.

 

Providing everything is level and that the two ends of track neatly align when the removable board is in place, why not simply use a fishplate, one that's been fettled to slide up and down, and one which can be slid back over the cut joint each time?

 

Thanks.

Edited by Will Hay
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10 hours ago, Colin_McLeod said:

Getting current to the movable board is easy. The complication is arranging that there is no current on the approach tracks when the removable section is 'removed' .

 

Ah, I see.

So if I'm only using the track when the removable section is back in place, I have no problems?

 

Why would anyone run locomotives around a track with a section missing?

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15 minutes ago, Will Hay said:

 

Ah, I see.

So if I'm only using the track when the removable section is back in place, I have no problems?

 

Why would anyone run locomotives around a track with a section missing?

On DCC, very occasionally a loco will take off unexpectedly! Sometimes at high speed! 

 

It happened to me but fortunately didn't reach the lift out section which was removed at the time.  Now I just insert pegs (actually quite chunky cork board pins)  into the track centres just in case.  But Colin's idea of creating an isolated section would be better.  I will look into doing that, cheers.  

 

Edit:  Just to clarify, I mostly operate my layout as an "end to end" but have a lift out section by the door so I can have the option of it "roundy roundy".  Nice sometimes just to sit an watch trains go by!

Edited by cravensdmufan
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Hinge section using ¼" jacks as hinges and conductors

(10mm ply with central bracing (not visible in photos)

804916096_Hingesection1.jpg.45b236360e3b62202c5e1ffd6e59bef5.jpg

 

With a microswich to cut power:

1569490772_Hingesection2.jpg.f65e852f6acc020416e4c55eba71333e.jpg

Edited by melmerby
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Alternative at a different part of layout:

20mm solid timber

Home made hinges

 

420224747_HingeSection4.jpg.5ad6bfd39ba783372f8f333e1f5e9083.jpg Contacts:1362259611_HingeSection5.jpg.baf60ecc00762e27a815730f2953ae71.jpg

 

 

Cupboard door hinges

Phosphor bronze wire contacts to brass strip

1860542514_HingeSection3.jpg.12e3680abc0daa5f016b879403ccbfa0.jpg

 

The hinges need to lift the track away as it rises to stop binding

 

(there is another microswitch)

 

Edited by melmerby
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Thanks all.

 

So, in short, if I'm only using the layout when the removable board is in place and as long as I engage the power after the section has been laid, the slidey fish plates are fine? 

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Mine is a simple rest in place piece with eye ball line up. Power is via a couple of leads with on off switches so engines cannot node dive off if piece missing. Built a simple shelf to store it. 

3443D9AA-69DD-4675-8518-B8A0A5FEDD9E.jpeg

F1DA58B0-A843-4212-ADF3-79E724E17C5B.jpeg

Edited by enginelane
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2 hours ago, Will Hay said:

Thanks all.

 

So, in short, if I'm only using the layout when the removable board is in place and as long as I engage the power after the section has been laid, the slidey fish plates are fine? 

No.

If they slide then they are less likely to conduct current, at least not consistently. So you'll have intermittent running problems.

And it would be extremely tedious to slide 8 fishplates into, or out of, position if you have 4 tracks crossing your lift-out section every time out open or close it.

The most convenient and reliable solution is to build something that automatically makes a good connection when the section is in place (e.g. springy copper contacts) or just a simple flying lead that plugs in.

 

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Depending on how often you intend to keep lifting it in and out, I actually think it's a good idea to have sliding fishplates to align the rails but as Phil says it would be necessary to have an additional method of conducting the power as using sliding fishplates to do that just wouldn't work well.  As I only rarely use the lift out section as a bridge, I will try the sliding fishplates.

 

I am actually going to re-engineer my lift out section hence my interest in this thread.  Despite having the privilege of having the layout in a spare bedroom in the house (thanks Mrs CDF!) the lift out section has always given problems with derailments owing to fluctuations in temperature and atmospheric conditions, something which I hadn't considered when I made it out of 2x1 topped with the dreaded Sundeala!  I'm forever adjusting it, and clamping it, wedging it etc!  Despite soldering the rails to copper clad both sides of the gaps it's not great.  It's the substrate that shrinks and expands slightly and it is that which  needs replacing.  I'm now thinking of thick plywood.

 

Power to the rails was never a problem - I use plug in choc bloc connectors. 

Edited by cravensdmufan
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Never have had the need to align the rails, the lifting sections themselves are aligned by the hinges at one end and guides at the other.

The gap varies between rail ends depending on temperature but never causes derailments.

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46 minutes ago, melmerby said:

Never have had the need to align the rails, the lifting sections themselves are aligned by the hinges at one end and guides at the other.

The gap varies between rail ends depending on temperature but never causes derailments.

I see your baseboards either side of the gap are 10mm ply and 20mm solid timber, much better engineered than mine which is is soft Sundeala. :mad:  Also I made the mistake of soldering the rails to copper clad thereby stopping the temperature gap that you mentioned from fluctuating, I reckon that's why the slight rail movement is sideways rather than lengthways, hence derailments.  Will now re-engineer.  Thanks for providing useful photos and info.

Edited by cravensdmufan
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