RMweb Gold Trofimow Posted January 22, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2014 Alan - a possible idea for you - you say that there isn't room for a switch, so the motor will still consume power? Is there room to fit a magnetically operated reed switch that can be operated by a magnet from outside the vehicle to turn it off? Just a thought There is the usual master slide switch to turn the power off, mounted in the trailer floor as shown in the pictures. It has not been possible to mount the usual Faller magnet biased reed switch that is intended to respond to stop magnets in the roadway. It would have to be mounted low down, which would mean inside the cab, and this is filled by the front wheel assembly, so there is no room for it. What this means is that for now, there is no means of remotely stopping the vehicle at junctions, etc. This does not matter as in due course I will be fitting a DCCar decoder and the computer will be able to control it by DCC via the embedded infra red control system. The only disadvantage then of having no reed is that when the vehicle is parked for any length of time, as in a goods yard or parcels depot, it will have to be held by the IR system and consequently the decoder will still consume battery power during this time. I would normally have installed a magnetic stop in locations where a vehicle would stand in this manner as this could be arranged to switch off power to both the motor and decoder when activated. I have used this method in the bus station as shown earlier in the thread. I suppose it would be possible to mount the reed higher in the side or roof of the trailer and conceal the stop magnet in some roadside structure, but in this instance, I am not sure it would be worth the bother. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brightspark Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 How about placing the reed switch in the roof of the trailer and the actuator in the roof of the goods shed or valance? edit; to put in the missing words. Typing faster than I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy crockett Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Alan are there any more updates in the offing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trofimow Posted March 11, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2014 I wish! There's been no hobby time since January, I'm afraid. It's at the end of a very long list of demands on my time unfortunately. Work and the needs of elderly relatives continue to conspire to keep me out of the railway room and are likely to continue to do so at least in the medium term. I'm getting withdrawal symptoms! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Spoons Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Excellent work there Alan; I know some people have looked at N scale applications, well I am considering this method in a larger size as I am currently scratch-building a London trolleybus in 1/43, and being plasticard the finished thing should be quite light; lighter I would say than a 1/72 diecast..... I like the idea of this as the components are discreet and small enough to have no visible parts, and I'm not then tied to creating working overhead - although one option I guess if I do go down the live overhead would be to plunder the guide-by-wire-and-magnets idea for steering and take juice from overhead.... Food for thought there. Looking forward to your future progress David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean hpw Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Love this thread, I am now looking if i can emulate the the system cheaper! Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brightspark Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Hi Sean, Cheaper is good. What are you planning? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeH_83 Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 out of interest, How long do the vehicles roughly last before needing to be put on charge? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy crockett Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 out of interest, How long do the vehicles roughly last before needing to be put on charge? About 8 hours. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Love this thread, I am now looking if i can emulate the the system cheaper! Sean hope you'll start a topic when you've got something in progress Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEAMYAKIMA Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Am planning to use the Faller system .... Can anyone comment on their experience of cars crossing a train track. I plan to only use the LWB van chassis and would like to cross HO code 83 track at an angle ie not at 90 degrees .... any comments please? Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trofimow Posted September 30, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 30, 2014 In my experience, the closer to 90 degrees, the more reliable the operation. Crossing the track at an angle requires the road/rail interface to be as smooth and level as you can get it. Even then, there is a risk of the vehicle steering getting bumped off line as the wheels cross the flangeway one at a time, particularly with smaller wheels. Fitting angled catch guide wires can help to bring errant vehicles back on track. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 In my experience, the closer to 90 degrees, the more reliable the operation. Crossing the track at an angle requires the road/rail interface to be as smooth and level as you can get it. Even then, there is a risk of the vehicle steering getting bumped off line as the wheels cross the flangeway one at a time, particularly with smaller wheels. Fitting angled catch guide wires can help to bring errant vehicles back on track. Alan Sound advice....it is possible but smaller wheeled vehicles do struggle a bit. I couldn't get a Transit chassis to do what's shown below. Plenty of catch wires help too....and obvious but not always thought of avoid steel rails. Quick video of something similar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOLLYGAULTON Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Hello, As a novice I can only respond to your question with a further question...sorry. I notice your pictures of the road vehicles are English types, I always thought Faller only produced continental vehicle types. Am I wrong? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trofimow Posted January 19, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2016 Hello, As a novice I can only respond to your question with a further question...sorry. I notice your pictures of the road vehicles are English types, I always thought Faller only produced continental vehicle types. Am I wrong? You are correct. The UK vehicles on this thread have all been converted from static die cast or plastic models, using Faller Parts. I've given blow by blow accounts of how I did mine earlier in the thread. One day, I'll have the time to do some more.... Many other modellers have done similar conversions, see Red Devil's video of his exhibition layout in post 113. He has a thread on here as well. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted March 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2018 Just reactivating this old thread with a couple of queries to those with experience of the car system: When charging a vehicle, should the switch be in the on or off position, assuming it matters? Should I expect the charger to get a little warm during the process? At the moment I am struggling to charge a vehicle and the charger seems to be cold, which suggests it might not be working. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy crockett Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Just reactivating this old thread with a couple of queries to those with experience of the car system: When charging a vehicle, should the switch be in the on or off position, assuming it matters? Should I expect the charger to get a little warm during the process? At the moment I am struggling to charge a vehicle and the charger seems to be cold, which suggests it might not be working. Best to have vehicle switched off, and yes a 8 hr charge does warm the charger a bit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted March 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2018 Thank you! Do you happen to know the output characteristics of the charger? I can't find out if it's plain DC, AC or whatever. I've contacted Faller's technical center but haven't got far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy crockett Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Thank you! Do you happen to know the output characteristics of the charger? I can't find out if it's plain DC, AC or whatever. I've contacted Faller's technical center but haven't got far. Will have a look and report back in 20 mins Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy crockett Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 2-8 volts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted March 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2018 I gave it an overnight charge last night, but still no joy this morning, so next I have to figure out if the charger is broken or the vehicle. Just out of interest, when the vehicle is at the end of its charge, does it stop quite suddenly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I gave it an overnight charge last night, but still no joy this morning, so next I have to figure out if the charger is broken or the vehicle. Just out of interest, when the vehicle is at the end of its charge, does it stop quite suddenly? Mine seemed to slow down rather than stop, that said I haven't got any pure Faller vehicles now, as I generally either build my own or if using a Faller chassis do away with onboard charging and just use a 1,5 v AAA or N battery in a holder as the lower voltage slows them down quite a bit which suits me. Easy enough to pop a new or re charged battery into the vehicle rather than charging the vehicle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy crockett Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I gave it an overnight charge last night, but still no joy this morning, so next I have to figure out if the charger is broken or the vehicle. Just out of interest, when the vehicle is at the end of its charge, does it stop quite suddenly? Barry try putting a meter on the charger terminals to see if you have any current, batteries do die i have changed a few over the years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted March 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2018 Barry try putting a meter on the charger terminals to see if you have any current, batteries do die i have changed a few over the years. I've been trying that, but (opening another can of worms) my multi-meter is acting up. I'll try a small pre-wired LED later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted March 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2018 Problem solved, hopefully. There was a bit of grit between the gears of the car - that's why it stopped suddenly, and why charging it wasn't having any effect. Luckily there doesn't seem to have been any damage to the mechanism. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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