Semaphore Signals - 4mm Scale (Mainly)

[Steve Hewitt]

In use ... Just like that............

 

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

 

The fibres have been installed, but not terminated at the LED end as I'm waiting a delivery from Shapeways of the 3D printed bayonet fittings I've started using.

 

More details when they arrive, and then a little video.....

 

Steve.

 

And here's the video:

 

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Whilst waiting for those connectors........

 

I have been making good progress on another GWR signal.

This one is from the Round Post era, and is based on a Swindon West Up signal.

 

The basic structure comprises a bracket from M.S.E. with post and dolls of Brass Tube.

 

 

 

The Weight Bar assemblies were fabricated from Brass Sections and MSE etches:

 

 

 

Other components were prepared:

 

 

 

 

The lower signal on the shorter doll is a "Calling On" arm.

The Bearing and Lamp with Bracket has been produced for me by Les Green as  3D Print in resin:

 

 

Les also produced the etched arm,

 

 

which ensures the lamp and spectacles are in alignment.

 

 

More soon,

Steve.

 

 

 

 

 

[Steve Hewitt]

More progress. but few pics.........

 

As happens when you get your head down, I forgot to pick up the camera to record what I was doing

 

The only shot I have between the previous post and the paint shop is this one:

It shows the crank which will transfer the "Pull" of the signal wire across the bracket to the outer doll.

The pivot tube is soldered into the bracket work, and can just be seen in the first of the earlier photos.

In that photo you can also see the holes on the dolls/post where the fibre optics for the lighting will eventually pass.

 

So, leaping forward in time......

 

Here are some shots taken during the mechanical assembly stage:

Things are a bit tight - some of the links have to be outside the hand rail stanchions.

 

 

 

By now the wooden staging has been added.

 

 

 

Fairly complete at this stage:

 

 

The lighting tests:

 

 

 

 

 

A shot which might be difficult when the signal is on the layout:

 

Showing the balance weights interleaved.

 

A little video will follow shortly,

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Here's the video.............

 

 

Steve.

 

 

Apologies for not being able to spell "Serrrrrrrrrvo"

Edited March 25, 2016 by Steve Hewitt

[Ralph R]

That is very impressive Steve.

 

Can I please ask you one question about the weight bar assemblies? The part that fits around the post, I wonder if you could please show a shot of the metal section before you start work on it and the stages to reach completion - I am not quite sure what you are using for that. It certainly works well and it is one of those things I have always struggled with.

 

Thanks,

 

Ralph

[Steve Hewitt]

That is very impressive Steve.

 

Can I please ask you one question about the weight bar assemblies? The part that fits around the post, I wonder if you could please show a shot of the metal section before you start work on it and the stages to reach completion - I am not quite sure what you are using for that. It certainly works well and it is one of those things I have always struggled with.

 

Thanks,

 

Ralph

Hi Ralph,

 

I'll do a "photo story" showing the whole process, but it might take a little while.

In the meantime, the brass section I use is just square bar.

 

Steve.

[Ralph R]

Thanks Steve. There must be a lot of metalwork on a small piece of brass bar and I look forward to learning the process when you have time.

 

Ralph

[Jon Fitness]

Here's the video.............

 

 

Steve.

 

 

Apologies for not being able to spell "Serrrrrrrrrvo"

Utterly brilliant work Steve. I'm learning to love those GW signals, and it's only when I look at what etchings are available and compare it with the signalling books I have I realise so much more remains to be offered by the manufacturers to help us. The MSE weight bars on the larger etch have always been upside down too!

Cheers

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

A Co-acting Distant.............

 

This next signal is a partner to the Swindon Up West bracket shown above. (i.e. its for the same railway)

It is based on the Astrop distant shown in Vaughan's book on GWR Signals.

 

The main characteristics are similar to the Astrop signal, but the heights are different.

The upper arm is a four foot all steel type, normally fitted to round post signals.

The lower arm is a four foot wooden arm as used on square post signals.

To accommodate the extra thickness of the post at this height, such repeater signals normally used a special arm with the lamp mounted on the left of the post. Not in this case however.

In order to get the lamp behind the spectacle, I've had to move the arm bearing a little.

 

The signal is already at the pre-painting stage:

 

 

The lower arm is provided with a Sighting Screen - which will be Black in this case to show up the Yellow arm.

 

 

The main post is made from two "Masokits" etches, joined to get the height.

 

 

You can see the join in this rather fuzzy shot - sorry

I made the two etches up as designed, the upper part is a normal signal post, the lower section is a main post for a bracket.

I carefully measured the size of the bottom of the Doll, and found the corresponding place on the Base Post, where it was trimmed.

The two parts were then joined with some internal splints to strengthen the joint.

 

That nice long ladder is made from two MSE 30ft etches, joined with the 0.4mm N/S wire I use to strengthen all my ladders.

 

I think that's all the "static" components, except the finial, ready for the paint shop.

The moving parts are also ready:

 

 

More in a while, when the paint has dried

 

Steve.

 

[Dave Holt]

I bet that ladder whipped about a bit when climbed to light the lamp! Lovely model, as always.

Dave.

[Steve Hewitt]

And now back from the paint shop.......

 

Fibres fitted, and all the mechanical bits joined up:

 

 

 

 

I've mounted the two GF Controllers on a mini-panel with the operating switches for both these signals:

 

 

You can just about make out the "interlocking", achieved by wiring the multi-pole switches to prevent an incorrect combination of arms being "pulled".

 

The owner can transfer the switches and controllers and copy this wiring directly onto his layout.

 

 

A little video will follow.

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Here's the little video..........

 

 

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

The bracket signal is lovely but the co-acting distant is just wonderful!

Could a signal be elegant ? That one certainly looks it to me.

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

That is very impressive Steve.

 

Can I please ask you one question about the weight bar assemblies? The part that fits around the post, I wonder if you could please show a shot of the metal section before you start work on it and the stages to reach completion - I am not quite sure what you are using for that. It certainly works well and it is one of those things I have always struggled with.

 

Thanks,

 

Ralph

Hi Ralph,

 

Sorry for the delay, but here is a "picture story" of the post fittings.

 

First the Weight Bar bearing or other item to be fitted to a Post or Doll:

In this case its an MSE Etched bearing.

 

The material for the fitting is square brass bar, next size up to the Post or Doll diameter.

In this case with a doll of 2mm dia (5/64in) the bar is 2.4mm (3/32in).

 

Give the end few mm. a good tinning:

 

Solder on the fitting.

(Just hold it in place with pointy thing, and use the iron to apply heat to the Tinning which will melt to form a good joint)

 

Clamp the bar in the lathe chuck.

The four jaw self-centring chunk was my Chrissy present a few years ago - really useful.

 

Face of the end to the correct length, level with the top of the fitting:

 

So:

 

Centre drill the end of the bar:

 

Then drill a few millimetres at the Doll or Post dia. 

2mm in this case, deep enough to go beyond the fitting.

 

Set the Parting Off tool to just clear the bottom of the fitting:

 

Part Off, being careful not to lose it:

 

We now have:

 

Use the Drill or Doll material to set it level in the vice, gripping what will be the front face:

 

Like so:

 

Use the Piercing Saw to cut down through the brass section, leaving the "straps" at each end.

 

Like so:

 

Carefully turn the saw blade through 90 degrees and cut out the centre bit:

Don't forget to ALWAYS lubricate your Piercing Saw blade - I wipe mine across a wax candle which I keep on the bench just for

lubricating Saw Blades and Taps

 

We now have:

 

Use Needle Files to clean everything up, the round off the sqaure corners:

 

To get:

 

Try it out:

 

Just a bit more TLC and it will be OK.

 

Hope that all makes sense

 

Steve.

Edited April 11, 2016 by Steve Hewitt

[Ralph R]

Thanks Steve, that is most helpful and shows perfectly how you achieve such a perfect job. I will have a go at that thanks.

 

Ralph

[Steve Hewitt]

And now for something completely different.......

 

After that 50ft tall co-acting distant, the next signal measures just 2ft 6in 

 

I've made models of the S.R. Westinghouse Ground Discs before, but they have been assembled from the MSE etch.

 

They make up very well, but can be quite difficult with the main structure being assembled from five minute brass etches, one of which is folded double.

The resulting "H" section then has to be drilled through the web for the Disc Pivot.

 

My success rate was better than 50% but even so, I decided an alternative might be better.

 

Step in Les Green and Shapeways.

Les has produced many components for me in the past.

Some delightful etches and several 3D Prints.

 

Working from the prototype drawings in Pryer's book, Les has made this:

 

This is a one piece 3D Print for the whole structure, with holes in place for the Disc and Weight Bar bearings and also for the fibre optic lighting and the operating wire.

 

All the moving parts are straight from the MSE etch:

 

The "guide tube" is a short length of 1/16 brass tube:

 

The features are more visible with a coat of paint;

(Must try to polish the printed surface)

 

The Disc is painted:

 

and glazed:

 

and the Fibre Optic fitted:

 

Assembly starts with the Weight Bar threaded onto the operating wire:

 

With the Operating Wire threaded into the Guide Tube:

and a Lace Pin pivot slipped in place.

 

Slide the Disc pivot shaft through the signal body, and locate it on the forward projection of the operating wire:

 

Add the Back Blinder to keep it all together:

 

Connect up to a "Gas Light" LED:

 

 

Just like that.

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

More for Woodford Halse............

 

I've still got two more bracket signals to make for Woodford Halse, so I've made a start on one of them:

 

This is a LH Bracket, with lattice post and two dolls.

The left hand doll is the taller of the two, with one Home signal.

The right hand doll is shorter with both a Home and Distant.

 

The main structure will use mainly MSE etches, with a few extra bits as necessary:

 

First the main post was made up as per the instructions, but with added Angle section on the corners:

 

 

You can see that I've used the new MSE etch for the bracket work.

This is much finer than the original version, but it lacks the "Zig-Zag" cross bracing which I'll have to add later.

 

I'll be using 3D printed resin Dolls, made by my friend Les Green.

 

Being hollow, they will easily take the Fibre Optics for the lighting.

They're actually cut down posts, with the bottom turned down to give a location spigot.

 

To locate the dolls, I've made sockets from Turned Brass and Square Tube :

 

 

To ensure these were correctly positioned and square etc. I made this little jig from wood and two drills:

 

 

This is how they were used:

 

 

 

That's all for now, more soon.

 

Steve.

 

 

 

[Steve Hewitt]

.....continued

 

I don't usually use etched "timber work" preferring to use real wood.

However, these very fine bracket etches require serious strengthening to survive handling, so I've decided to use this etch:

 

 

This will also give me a good mount for the handrail stanchions, when their time comes.

 

The holes for the stanchions needed drilling 0.45mm dia.

I often drill such holes by hand, using a pin vice or similar because my Proxon Mill/Drill won't hold drills less then 0.5mm dia.

Previous attempts at holding a fine pin chuck in the drill chuck have ended in tears, due to a lack of concentricity.

Whilst visiting the Stafford exhibition earlier this year I managed to buy yet another fine pin vice which looked to be better made than most others I've seen.

Happy is the modeller whose purchase proves its value:

 

 

The drill ran perfectly true first time, and drilled all the holes without trouble.

 

The Staging soldered to the bracket:

 

 

You can see that I've used more angle brass to support the outer two planks, and I've soldered some fine etched N/S strip to the edge of the curved etch.

 

Finally for now, I've added the "zig-zag" strengtheners between the front and rear brackets:

 

 

More soon......

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

.....continued

 

I don't usually use etched "timber work" preferring to use real wood.

However, these very fine bracket etches require serious strengthening to survive handling, so I've decided to use this etch:

 

RIMG2515.jpg

 

This will also give me a good mount for the handrail stanchions, when their time comes.

 

The holes for the stanchions needed drilling 0.45mm dia.

I often drill such holes by hand, using a pin vice or similar because my Proxon Mill/Drill won't hold drills less then 0.5mm dia.

Previous attempts at holding a fine pin chuck in the drill chuck have ended in tears, due to a lack of concentricity.

Whilst visiting the Stafford exhibition earlier this year I managed to buy yet another fine pin vice which looked to be better made than most others I've seen.

Happy is the modeller whose purchase proves its value:

 

RIMG2516.jpg

 

The drill ran perfectly true first time, and drilled all the holes without trouble.

 

The Staging soldered to the bracket:

 

RIMG2517.jpg

 

You can see that I've used more angle brass to support the outer two planks, and I've soldered some fine etched N/S strip to the edge of the curved etch.

 

Finally for now, I've added the "zig-zag" strengtheners between the front and rear brackets:

 

RIMG2519.jpg

 

More soon......

Steve.

Lovely work Steve!

I must admit, I prefer wood for staging but sometimes that causes problems for location of the stanchions. I sometimes use copperclad for the staging so I can solder everything to it underneath. then glue a bit of thin ply above.

Bracing the etched brackets seems the best thing to do as well not only for strength but appearance too. I do wish the main providers of etches would expand their ranges and upgrade their older ones with a bit of details. Things seem to have stagnated rather in recent years..

Keep up the good work as you seem to have developed the technology to update our signal modelling!!

Cheers

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

A little more progress..........

 

The good weather recently has had an adverse effect on my modelling.

A weekend in the caravan, some gardening etc. etc. have been very enjoyable, but have kept me out of the shed.

 

However, I've managed the following:

 

 

The ladders are all made, and the dolls have their various fittings attached.

 

 

The main ladder and the stanchions for the handrails have been added, as have the bearings for the weight bars.

 

 

The Foundation tube and guide tubes for the operating wires have been fixed along with the baseplate.

 

Most of the other bits and pieces have been made or withdrawn from "Stock" made earlier:

 

 

More soon, I hope........

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Further assembly........

 

Dolls, Upper Ladders, Handrails all in place:

 

 

Off for a scrub in Cif, then a good rinse in Cellulose Thinners en-route to the paint shop.

 

 

Where its all drying overnight....

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Doesn't time fly............

 

 The lack of reporting has corresponded with genuine lack of activity  

A couple of weeks away in the caravan in Norfolk.

Unfortunately, that part of the country isn't served very well with mobile phone services, so no Wifi for the laptop etc.

 

Back again, but a 'orrible cough kept me out of the workshop.....

 

However, I have a couple of pics to share:

 

Back from the Paintshop, and all the intricate bits added.

 

And connected to the servos.

 

Its been tested and everything works OK, but I'll not make the video until the next signal for the same railway is complete.

 

I've made a start on that and will show progress soon I hope.

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Another signal for Woodford Halse.........

 

This next signal is being made from a photo provided by the layout owner:

 

The photo is dated 11th September 1966 which believe is less than a week after closure.

Signal arms already gone, and some track lifted  -- sad.

In this enlarged section you can see the main characteristics quite clearly.

It is a "LMS Welded Stem Bracket", for which there is an excellent drawing in Warburton.

 

Scaling from the photo and guided by the Warburton info, I've made this drawing as a basis for the model:

 

 

I'll try to detail the construction as I go along.....

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Making a start.....

 

The prototype main post is constructed of two 15inch by 4inch steel channels.

These face each other and are held in position by 12inch wide steel plates welded to each channel.

 

My stock of Brass Channel sections included some 5mm by 2mm, which required reducing to 1.3mm to get the look correct.

I superglued the two lengths of channel to some flat timber and mounted it in my Milling Machine vice.

This allowed me to remove the surplus material quickly and accurately.

 

A drawing of the main post was then made on thin card and covered in double sided tape.

The 4mm N/S strip for the plates was tinned and fixed down with wooden supports for the channel.

Once separated, this will give the two sides of the main post, ready for assembly.

 

More soon......

Steve.