RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted November 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2020 19 hours ago, Stephen Freeman said: Mike, if you use the link you posted above and go to his Exeter page there is a picture there. Only of the tubular steel version 9unless I'm looking in the wrong place?) - I had in mind the timber post structure that replaced which had two main uprights. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Steve Hewitt Posted February 28, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted February 28, 2021 Now for something totally Off Topic........ I've recently taken a break from Signal building to pick up again a project I started more than a decade ago! I'll not go into the constructioin details, but here are a few pics of the result to date. Since I have no facilities to use this at home, I've had to ensure it can be safely transported. Opening the Box..... LMS Black 5 of 1936. I had completed the Tender several years ago but the Engine I have built since Christmas. Final details still to complete, but it is now running. I hope it still runs after Painting etc. Back to Signals shortly. Steve. 15 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted March 1, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 1, 2021 Certainly has a great presence about it, Wonderful looking build, Excellent stuff build thread anyone! Cheers Ade 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted March 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 1, 2021 Very nice Steve! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbine Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) Back on topic, I'm sure I've seen it mentioned here somewhere but 51 pages is too much to recap. Can I ask how you would fix a brass signal arm pivot tube into the centre of a whitemetal post? I am a little hesitant to go in with solder but prepared to give it a go. Likewise the balance arm of course. Edited March 13, 2021 by woodbine spelling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 14, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2021 Hi Woodbine, Thanks for your question. First rule is if its Metal to Metal I always try solder. With white metal/brass I use Carrs 100deg. solder. (It doesn't require the Brass to be pre-tinned.) If you're not comfortable with that, I suggest using Loctite Retainer, so long as the Brass Tube is a good fit in the White Metal Post. The balance arm is likely to be held in its own bearing, mounted on the surface of the Post. If solder is not your choice then Super Glue is OK. Again the two parts must fit together quite snuggly. In this case, on final assembly, the Lace Pin I use as the pivot for the Weight Bar should be fixed into the Post with Solder or Loctite to re-inforce the joint. (Careful not to solder/glue it all up solid.) I hope this helps...... Steve. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Steve Hewitt Posted March 23, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2021 Back on Topic again..... During the Lockdown I've managed to complete a set of signals for a model of Kirkby Stephen being built at home by a local (Lancashire) modeller. There are two Home and two Starter signals. One Lattice Post and three Round Posts: These follow my usual methods and materials being LED/Fibre Optic lit and servo operated using GF Controllers. There are also four LMS/BR Ground Discs: These are built from Palatine Models etches. Again LED/Fibre Optic lit, servo operated with GF Controllers. Quite tiny. About 12mm tall. More soon.... Steve. 11 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Very nice signals Is the fibre optic white shining through coloured spectacle on the disc or is it a red and a green coloured light from below? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 2 hours ago, Steve Hewitt said: Back on Topic again..... During the Lockdown I've managed to complete a set of signals for a model of Kirkby Stephen being built at home by a local (Lancashire) modeller. There are two Home and two Starter signals. One Lattice Post and three Round Posts: These follow my usual methods and materials being LED/Fibre Optic lit and servo operated using GF Controllers. There are also four LMS/BR Ground Discs: These are built from Palatine Models etches. Again LED/Fibre Optic lit, servo operated with GF Controllers. Quite tiny. About 12mm tall. More soon.... Steve. Aw Steve, those ground signals are absolutely gorgeous. Beautiful work JF 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 24, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2021 22 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said: Very nice signals Is the fibre optic white shining through coloured spectacle on the disc or is it a red and a green coloured light from below? Hi Michael, The light is an "Off White" and the colour is given by the the coloured spectacle. I use a Warm White LED and add a touch of Amber glass paint to simulate the oil lamp colour. The spectacles are coloured with the MSE material. Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 24, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2021 Another Lockdown project....... This next signal is for the GWR "square post era" layout I've contributed several signals to in the past. Having left the terminus at Edgeware Road, the next station down the line is Acton Wells and this is one of the Down Home signals for that station. It is a balanced bracket signal with three dolls. From the left, there is a short centre pivot arm controling access to a siding. The centre doll controls access to a platform and has Fixed Distant below. The right hand doll controls the access to the mian platform and laso has a Fixed Distant below. More soon.......... Steve. 8 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 25, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2021 4 hours ago, Steve Hewitt said: Another Lockdown project....... This next signal is for the GWR "square post era" layout I've contributed several signals to in the past. Having left the terminus at Edgeware Road, the next station down the line is Acton Wells and this is one of the Down Home signals for that station. It is a balanced bracket signal with three dolls. From the left, there is a short centre pivot arm controling access to a siding. The centre doll controls access to a platform and has Fixed Distant below. The right hand doll controls the access to the mian platform and laso has a Fixed Distant below. More soon.......... Steve. Steve, I believe that the fixed distant lamps should have yellow lenses as they don't have spectacles. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted March 25, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2021 You might not see it in an unlit photo, but the two Fixed Distants have yellow ends to the fibres. They are treated to a drop of Amber Glass Paint. Steve. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Steve Hewitt Posted March 26, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) Time for some more Southern Signals............... The railway is Tony Teague's "Churminster and Stowe Magna", which Tony's topic on RMweb tells us all about. Having built but not yet delivered the semaphores for Churminstaer due to Covid restrictions, I am making a start on the Stowe Magna signals. Tony has recently posted design information for the first couple which are both Rail Built. If you click on the little arrow top right above, you will see the drawings. As usual, I will start by gathering together many of the components and sub-assemblies required for these two signals. The first items I tackled were the Rail Built posts. These are made from SMP Code 70 Bullhead Rail. The spacers are Nickel Silver wire. This is the Single Post. The Post for the Bracket signal comprises of four rails, two pairs made like the Single Post. These are held to the correct spacing by scraps of etch soldered across them. The gap between them is some 7inches on the prototype, which I set to 2.4mm using a couple of suitable sized drills. The two pairs will eventually be held in position by the signal's foundations and the bracket work. The front or rear face of the post. A side view of the post. Followers of this Topic will know that I like to provide solid foundations for my signals, usually featuring a turned brass item into which the bottom of the post is fixed. This item also ensures the foundations are truly vertical to the baseplate. With a four rail post I decided to support its base both internally and externally. Looking vertically down on the baseplate, the brass turning has a hole which is a very close fit on the outer edges of the four rails. Centrally through the turning is a brass tube which has a diamter that is a close fit in the inner edges of the four rails. This tube prevents any tendancy for the bottom of the post to collapse due to sideways pressure on the post. The hole through the tube allows the optical fibres from the signal lamps to pass through the baseboard. Hopefully the photos show what I mean........ The three small tubes will eventually guide the operating wires down to their servo motors. The guide tubes are soldered to the turned item for support. The large brass tube is 1/2in dia, and will locate the signal in its position on the railway. The servo assembly will also use this tube for alignment when it is fixed under the signal. A very similar approach has been taken for the two rail post. This time the turning just fits closely to the outer edges of the two rails, and a smaller tube suports their inner edges. This time there are only two operating wires to guide. The post on its baseplate. Finally for today, a shot of the brackets and dolls being prepared for future assembly. The bracket etches, from MSE, have been beefed up by the adition of 1x1mm brass angle along the top edge, and 1x0.5mm N/S strip along the other edges. More soon............ Steve. Edited March 26, 2021 by Steve Hewitt Spelling correction. 12 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Steve Hewitt Posted March 27, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted March 27, 2021 Assembling the bracket.... The purpose of the bracket is to support the Dolls. Like the post, the dolls need good foundations , and these foundations will also strengthen the bracket. I like to support dolls by slotting them into something rigid, but that's not easy with lattice dolls. I have chosen to provide a short spigot for each doll which will locate it accurately and give a good basis for soldering. As seen previously, a 2.4mm dia rod is a good fit inside the main post and I will use a tube of that diameter to locate the main doll. For the other two dolls, I measured the diameter of a spigot which will be a good fit for each. Since the Bracket sections need to be held as wide apart as the main post, I measured this at 4mm. The two spigots were turned from 4mm square brass bar, and drilled through 0.9mm for the optical fibre. Into my well used piece of Tufnol I drilled three holes to suite the spigots and at the correct spacing of 25mm centre to centre. The two turned spigots together with a length of Silver Steel ready to assemble the brackets to the Main Post. Here the Silver Steel has been replaced by a short length of brass tube to form the spigot for the main doll. The assembly ready for soldering. Ready for the handrail stanchions. The stanchions are made from 0.45mm dia Lace pins. Each has been given a characteristic joggle. Beams to support the stanchions are made from 1.0 x 0.5 mm brass strip, drilled 0.45mm for a pin at each end. The Tufnol block was used agoin to hold the signal while the beams were soldered in place. The stanchions will be fitted next. Each of the dolls will now be fitted with Lamp Brkt, Bearing and Lamp using a 3D printed item. They will also get their weight bars and bearings before fitting to the signal. I will also need to design, make and fit the Cranks for the operating wires. Which is for later........... Steve. 13 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Superbly engineered as usual Steve. Lovely stuff JF 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Steve Hewitt Posted April 3, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted April 3, 2021 Continuing the assembly........... I have previously prepared several sub-assemblies, such as the stanchions, the dolls with fittings etc. First I fitted all the handrail stanchions Fitting the dolls to the bracket was fairly straight forward, keeping an eye on alignment. The design of this signal is based on Pryers Plate 103, so I added the tie-bars which help spread the load of the overhanging bracket. I also fitted the ladders at this stage I was unsure about when to fit the actual handrail as it can make subsequent installation of the operating bits and pieces quite fiddly. Eventually I bit the bullet and fitted it now. Cleaning, polishing, bath in Cellulose Thinners then painting............ Steve. 17 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 7, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2021 Back from the Paintshop............. I almost forgot to take any photos before adding the moving parts: I have already installed the three optical fibres. You can see them routed up the structure. This rear view shows the "Backlight" effect where the optical fibre is turned sharply into the rear of the Lamp. The LED is fitted into the 3D printed connector and supplied with 9volts from the PP3 battery. The three fibres are fitted into the connector, which is a bayonet fix into LED holder. The heat shrink is for visibility and protection. Any damage to a fibre will almost certainly require its replacement which can be a right p.i.t.a. On with the moving parts now. This is when the signal comes to life...... Steve. 9 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Steve Love the LED/optical fibre set-up, who supplies the LED holder/connectors. Also do you use a resistor between the battery and the LED? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 8, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2021 20 hours ago, gz3xzf said: Steve Love the LED/optical fibre set-up, who supplies the LED holder/connectors. Also do you use a resistor between the battery and the LED? The LED to Optical Fibre connectors are available from Les Green's shop on Shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/product/QRZ3TDVSC/led-connectors-for-printing-v4?optionId=74139707&li=shops Yes, I put a 1k ohm resistor in line with the feed. This is suitable for supply voltages from 9v to 15v. On installation I recommend using a 12v ring to supply all the signals on a layout. Hope this is helpful. Steve. 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Steve Hewitt Posted April 11, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted April 11, 2021 Moving on............. The moving parts are in two sections. The first are those parts of the signal "above ground" which the observer sees, and which I attempt to represent the prototype as closely as possible. True scale modelling isn't feasible because gravity and strength don't scale down at the same rate as linear dimensions. The means that to achieve reliability and durability the moving components are of necessity over scale. This applies particularly to the operating wires, which have to Push as well as Pull. Consequently, connections of wires to cranks etc. have to be beefed up a little. I have standardised on 0.4mm dia. Nickel Silver wire for all the above ground links to weight bars, cranks, signal arms etc. This is blackened with "gun blue" and formed to shape with pliers and fingers. The first arm on this signal is reached directly, but the other two require cranks to transfer the pull across the bracket. Planning ahead for once I installed the two cranks during initial construction: The two cranks share a common axle, one operating between the trimmers and the other on the facing side. This shot was taken prior to cleaning and tidying up of the soldering! The cranks are from a Masokits etch and are well designed for smooth operation. The outer crank which connects to the right hand doll. The connection from the inner crank to the centre doll can be seen here, as can the connection to the signal arm. The second section of "Moving Parts" concern the Below Ground items which are focussed on ease of Installation of the model, and quality and reliability of signal movement. Final assembly of the signal is done on the Transport & Test Frame, which represents its location on the layout as far as baseboard thickness is concerned. This means the signal can tested on receipt and easily transferred to the layout. Here is the basic frame: It is sized to be a tight fit in an A4 Really Usefull Box. The baseboard is 13mm thick, so I have added 0.5mm plastic to the top of the 12.5mm thick MDF surface. The operation of the signal is by small servo motors, for which I make a bespoke mount: These servos are 3.7gm Digital Servos. The svervos have to positioned accurately below the signal, which you will recall is built on a 1/2in dia Foundation Tube. I therefore prepare a small "sub-board" which will be located accurately by the Foundation Tube: The sub-board ready to be screwed underneath the baseboard. The completed servo mount. Alignment of the parts is by "rack of th' eye". A further piece of 1/2in tube is used to align everything during construction. Aligning the servos with the Foundation Tube. The signal is transferred to the T&T Frame: I have previously described how I strenghten the operaing wires where they pass below ground by sleeving the 0.4mmN/S in 1/32in Brass Tube. This in turn being a sliding fit inside the Guide Tubes built into the signals foundations. The three 1/32in tubes, each containing one operating wire. The first has the connection to its servo being tried for size. It is made from 1/16in Brass Tube. The horn of the servo motor is drilled 1/16in to be a good fit on the tube. The servo is set to "Safe" i.e. mid-throw, and the signal arm set between On and Off prior to soldering the joint. Repeat for the other two servos/arms: Ready for operational testing. The signal in its Box: Just waiting for a mate or two before delivery. I'll try to take some video of it shortly. Steve. 11 1 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 13, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 13, 2021 Here's the video........... Steve. 10 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingEdwardII Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 On 11/04/2021 at 21:59, Steve Hewitt said: The servo is set to "Safe" i.e. mid-throw, and the signal arm set between On and Off prior to soldering the joint. Steve, I'm curious to understand why you follow this procedure when attaching the control rods to the servos. I would have thought that it would be simpler to have the servo at one end of its sweep - e.g. the end corresponding to the signal being in the "stop" position (horizontal). Clearly I am missing something here. Yours, Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 15, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 15, 2021 Hi Mike, It's all to do with ensuring the servo and the signal are in a position from which adjustments can be made. The maximum throw of the servo is very large compared to the amount of throw required to operate the signal. The servo has some fine movements at the end of each opertion. Starting from Danger, the movement is slow, with a pause for the signaller to adjust their grip. When the Clear prosition is reached, the servo travels a tiny amount beyond the end point and then sets back to simulate the signaller releasing their pull on the lever. To return to Danger, the servo first moves the tiny amount of "overpull" before returning to Danger quite quickly. This simulates the signaller pulling the lever to ease releasing the catch. When the signal reaches Danger, there is a small amount of Bounce built into the software. Some don't like it, but the majority do. The "Bounce" and "Pause" feature is switchable in the GF Controller. If the servo travels to the end of its throw, these fine movements are (or can be) lost. In order to protect the signal from excessive movement which can be quite damaging, the "Safe" or Mid-throw position is selectable in the GF Controller and I recommend it is used whenever the signal is removed from the layout. The software also minimises any "Twitch" at power up, which can be a problem with some controllers. Hope this makes everything clear? Steve. 5 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 19, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 19, 2021 More for Stowe Magna....... With the bracket signal completed, I've decided to deal with the other signals as a batch. I have progressed as far as the "static" assemblies: I showed the Rail Built post previously when describing its foundations. Here it is ready for cleaning etc. prior to painting. The other three signals are ex-LBSCR square posts with SR Upper Quadrant arms. The posts are 3D Printed by Shapeways - from Les Green's Shop : https://www.shapeways.com/product/P6AYJMKN5/2015-11-05-square-signal-post-v2?optionId=58364585&li=shops as are the Lamp-Bracket-Bearing These posts are hollow to allow the optical fibre to be concealed. The other components are from MSE/Wizard, Masokits etc. Just one Westinghouse Ground Disc to add before cleaning, painting and adding the moving parts.......... Steve. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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