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Semaphore Signals - 4mm Scale (Mainly)


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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Back on topic, I'm sure I've seen it mentioned here somewhere but 51 pages is too much to recap. Can I ask how you would fix a brass signal arm pivot tube into the centre of a whitemetal post? I am a little hesitant to go in with solder but prepared to give it a go. Likewise the balance arm of course.

Edited by woodbine
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Hi Woodbine,

 

Thanks for your question.

 

First rule is if its Metal to Metal I always try solder.

With white metal/brass I use Carrs 100deg. solder. (It doesn't require the Brass to be pre-tinned.)

 

If you're not comfortable with that, I suggest using Loctite Retainer, so long as the Brass Tube is a good fit in the White Metal Post.

The balance arm is likely to be held in its own bearing, mounted on the surface of the Post.

If solder is not your choice then Super Glue is OK. Again the two parts must fit together quite snuggly.

In this case, on final assembly, the Lace Pin I use as the pivot for the Weight Bar should be fixed into the Post with Solder or Loctite to re-inforce the joint. (Careful not to solder/glue it all up solid.)

 

I hope this helps......

 

Steve.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Steve Hewitt said:

Back on Topic again.....

 

During the Lockdown I've managed to complete a set of signals for a model of Kirkby Stephen being built at home by a local (Lancashire) modeller.

 

There are two Home and two Starter signals.

One Lattice Post and three Round Posts:

 

1357939107_KirkbyStephensignals.jpg.471af2c4107d075e0a4b1679c8c43483.jpg

These follow my usual methods and materials being LED/Fibre Optic lit and servo operated using GF Controllers.

 

There are also four LMS/BR Ground Discs:

 

RIMG0484.JPG.698ad6ab8e254227ffa68f60e3ccd1d5.JPG

 

These are built from Palatine Models etches.

Again LED/Fibre Optic lit, servo operated with GF Controllers.

 

RIMG0454.jpg.c3f041c6bee45e2e056b7934123f878e.jpg

Quite tiny.

 

RIMG0452.jpg.1b3b559bcdbe485da945f104f1e3cc99.jpg

About 12mm tall.

 

RIMG0451.jpg.4259609cc0661a8edcf12d00e88a51d2.jpg

 

More soon....

 

Steve.

Aw Steve, those ground signals are absolutely gorgeous. Beautiful work:imsohappy:

JF

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22 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

Very nice signals :)

Is the fibre optic white shining through coloured spectacle on the disc or is it a red and a green coloured light from below?

Hi Michael,

 

The light is an "Off White" and the colour is given by the the coloured spectacle.

I use a Warm White LED and add a touch of Amber glass paint to simulate the oil lamp colour.

The spectacles are coloured with the MSE material.

 

Steve.

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Another Lockdown project.......

 

This next signal is for the GWR "square post era" layout I've contributed several signals to in the past.

Having left the terminus at Edgeware Road, the next station down the line is Acton Wells and this is one of the Down Home signals for that station.

 

It is a balanced bracket signal with three dolls.

From the left, there is a short centre pivot arm controling access to a siding.

The centre doll controls access to a platform and has Fixed Distant below.

The right hand doll controls the access to the mian platform and laso has a Fixed Distant below.

 

RIMG0482.JPG.0dc5bd838bcdd9c5f8ea0de1bb5ebb86.JPG

 

More soon..........

 

Steve.

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4 hours ago, Steve Hewitt said:

Another Lockdown project.......

 

This next signal is for the GWR "square post era" layout I've contributed several signals to in the past.

Having left the terminus at Edgeware Road, the next station down the line is Acton Wells and this is one of the Down Home signals for that station.

 

It is a balanced bracket signal with three dolls.

From the left, there is a short centre pivot arm controling access to a siding.

The centre doll controls access to a platform and has Fixed Distant below.

The right hand doll controls the access to the mian platform and laso has a Fixed Distant below.

 

RIMG0482.JPG.0dc5bd838bcdd9c5f8ea0de1bb5ebb86.JPG

 

More soon..........

 

Steve.

Steve, I believe that the fixed distant lamps should have yellow lenses as they don't have spectacles.

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Back from the Paintshop.............

 

I almost forgot to take any photos before adding the moving parts:

 

20210406_155738.jpg.6d42bacc8ec631ceadad55e0ee55dde8.jpg

I have already installed the three optical fibres. You can see them routed up the structure.

 

20210406_155820.jpg.94f96feaa59e77ead357f46d5f89c5fb.jpg

This rear view shows the "Backlight" effect where the optical fibre is turned sharply into the rear of the Lamp.

 

20210406_155916.jpg.2f3d1048a227c1e1436ca4a2c413273c.jpg

The LED is fitted into the 3D printed connector and supplied with 9volts from the PP3 battery.

The three fibres are fitted into the connector, which is a bayonet fix into LED holder.

The heat shrink is for visibility and protection. Any damage to a fibre will almost certainly require its replacement which can be a right p.i.t.a.

 

On with the moving parts now. This is when the signal comes to life......

 

Steve.

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Steve

Love the LED/optical fibre set-up, who supplies the LED holder/connectors. Also do you use a resistor between the battery and the LED?

 

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20 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

Steve

Love the LED/optical fibre set-up, who supplies the LED holder/connectors. Also do you use a resistor between the battery and the LED?

 

The LED to Optical Fibre connectors are available from Les Green's shop on Shapeways.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/QRZ3TDVSC/led-connectors-for-printing-v4?optionId=74139707&li=shops

 

Yes, I put a 1k ohm resistor in line with the feed.

This is suitable for supply voltages from 9v to 15v.

On installation I recommend using a 12v ring to supply all the signals on a layout.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

Steve.

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On 11/04/2021 at 21:59, Steve Hewitt said:

The servo is set to "Safe" i.e. mid-throw, and the signal arm set between On and Off  prior to soldering the joint.

Steve,

 

I'm curious to understand why you follow this procedure when attaching the control rods to the servos.

 

I would have thought that it would be simpler to have the servo at one end of its sweep - e.g. the end corresponding to the signal being in the "stop" position (horizontal). Clearly I am missing something here.

 

Yours, Mike.

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Hi Mike,

 

It's all to do with ensuring the servo and the signal are in a position from which adjustments can be made.

The maximum throw of the servo is very large compared to the amount of throw required to operate the signal.

The servo has some fine movements at the end of each opertion.

Starting from Danger, the movement is slow, with a pause for the signaller to adjust their grip.

When the Clear prosition is reached, the servo travels a tiny amount beyond the end point and then sets back to simulate the signaller releasing their pull on the lever.

To return to Danger, the servo first moves the tiny amount of "overpull" before returning to Danger quite quickly. This simulates the signaller pulling the lever to ease releasing the catch.

When the signal reaches Danger, there is a small amount of Bounce built into the software. Some don't like it, but the majority do.

The "Bounce" and "Pause" feature is switchable in the GF Controller.

If the servo travels to the end of its throw, these fine movements are (or can be) lost.

In order to protect the signal from excessive movement which can be quite damaging, the "Safe" or Mid-throw position is selectable in the GF Controller and I recommend it is used whenever the signal is removed from the layout.

The software also minimises any "Twitch" at power up, which can be a problem with some controllers.

 

Hope this makes everything clear?

 

Steve.

 

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