RichardJones Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Printed in FUD, with underframe and buffers - and it all printed! Even the teeny door handles have come out. Just need to clean the wax up now and see how much of the rivet detail has survived. My one concern is the roof height, I think I may have made an error in vertical dimensioning somewhere, it seems a little tall! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardJones Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 Well I've today cleaned it up firstly with IPA and then a good scrub in warm water and fairy liquid with an old toothbrush. I've also managed to give it a dusting of paint to see what detail actually printed. The ends are great, but the sides are going to require some cleaning up. Still I'm pretty happy with how it turned out overall. From a distance it looks very good indeed. Some painted pics: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 That seems to have come out quite well. I'd be happy with that. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAustin Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Do you have any prototype info on this wagon (and the other ones you've got on Shapeways), e.g. sample numbers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 That's come out really well! You have a right to be very proud of those! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardJones Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 It is based on No. 951, although the end detail is wrong. There is no drawing so it's based purely on estimation from a photo in Cambrian Album. There is another similar wagon shown in a photo of Llanidloes station, so I have also made a model of that, and have altered the end detail based on Dragon Models' 7mm kit. (I have no idea where they got their protortype info from, but it's no doubt much more accurate than mine!) It looks even better once scraped and painted matt black: It's been a useful test, I've amended several things on the new files, like recesses for the pinpoint bearings and the 2 plank features thinner W Irons. There are now rooves as well on the vans. I'm just working on a coach to add to the collection, then I'll print the lot together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 It looks even better once scraped Yes it does. Care to expand? Did you smooth the models on the sides or just emphasise the plank grooves? When printed end up the ends tend to come out quite well but the sides not as crisp as they might. This is quite obvious when you study closely on my own models now I have them in the top coat and looks similar to the finish on your earlier painted photos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardJones Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 Rich - it was a bit of both. I had only made the plank grooves 0.2mm deep, so after scraping the sides down to what felt smooth (it's impossible to see the lines once the paint is breached) I ran the blade through the plank grooves as well to remove any paint. It would have been better accomplished with a scriber point rather than knife blade however, still I know now for next time! This is the Cambrian Brake/Luggage van I'm now working on: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 On the wagons I've produced (in 2mm), I too have made the plank gaps 0.2mm deep (into the side), by 0.15mm high (i.e. the width of the gap). That seemed to come out OK on all of the wagons I've done so far. Images of the Outside Framed Van that I've done can be seen in my gallery. I'm currently trying to get some of the cattle wagons completed that were the subject of a blog entry here > http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1009/entry-10020-2mmfs-gwr-cattle-train-in-fud/ Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardJones Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 I'm very much looking forward to seeing the results of your wagons, if you do make them available to the rest of us I'd certainly be looking at having a few. My plank gaps are 0.1mm wide, and on the revised drawings are now between 0.3 and 0.5mm deep, depending on the thickness of the section. The open wagon has had to remain at 0.2mm as it has thin sides. What I can't work out is how my luggage van has come out cheaper to print than the 6 ton van! I guess I must have really gone OTT on the wall thickness for the van! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Richard, If you can make the gaps between the planks 0.5mm deep then your sides are somewat thicker than mine! I can't remember (so I'll have to check my drawings), but I think I made the sides (and ends) of my wagons 0.8mm thick before the framing was added - hence only wanting plank gap depths of 0.2mm. On the W1 / W3 cattle wagons, I even thinned the material at the edges of the ends to minimise the perceived over scale thickness in the openings in the sides of the wagon. The FUD material is remarkably strong (although brittle - as I have found out with some of the springs that I had drawn up, but then they are only 0.5mm thick and about 0.3mm at the thin end where they meet the "box support thingy" that holds them on the solebars). I look forward to seeing luggage van. I do intend making my models available to others, but from Shapeways only - I don't intend bulk buying then trying to sell them on. Before I do though I want to complete my own set - I've already discovered a minor issue with the W1 / W3 cattle wagons as I intended melting the bars in the openings into the material of the door frames from the back only to find that FUD is remarkably heat tolerant - my soldering iron makes next to no impression on it!! (Annoyingly, the outside framed W2 cattle wagon that I drew first has a recess drawn into the back of the door frames to accomodate the bar - I thought that it would provide a weak point so elected not to employ that method on the later cattle wagons!) I've nearly finished one each of the W1 and W2 cattle wagons so will be providing an update to my blog shortly to let anyon interested how I got on. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardJones Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 I look forward to seeing the finished article - and yes you're right about the strength of FUD, I was surprised at how much abuse the buffers on the van took before I chipped one of them! Transparent detail is considerably weaker, but becomes flexible when heated. Yes the van has 2mm thick walls at their thickest, but it's only about 0.6 at the thinnest. The luggage van is 0.8mm all along, which I hope will be tough enough. So much am I impressed with FUD that I have just set a challenge - an underframe for Association RCH 5 planks in one piece with brake gear, but based on Gloucester RCW practice unlike whatever the etch represents. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 It seems to be possible to go down to about 0.5/0.6mm quite happily providing there are curves or struts along it to stop it warping. On the strength side I've had some problems with things like the top of lamps - it seems FUD is very strong providing each bit is printed in contact with a reasonable amount of other material (like a buffer head) but useless for stuff like thin cylinders and pipes where the joining surface is small. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwinewt Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Richard - That van could be a good start for printing the extremely rare n-gauge 4-wheel coaches... Would you be willing to share the files? Nate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR-Fanatic Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I must say that I am most impressed with what I have seen here. What I'd like to know though is if locomotive bodies could be easily produced, as I am interested in acquiring a 3D printer at some point in the future to create my own Cambrian locomotives, a railway company of which in my opinion is greatly overlooked by the main stream modelling companies, not to mention various items of GWR stock and their locos that are also overlooked. What I would also be interested to know is what source of information for the model did you use (i.e. blueprint, photographs or other item), as I would assume the dimensions have to be completely accurate before production takes place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 What I'd like to know though is if locomotive bodies could be easily produced As easily as anything else can be printed. There are many examples of locomotive bodies in this section of the forum. I saw the subject of this blog post earlier today and they looked every bit as good in the flesh. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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