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Brian Madge 'Alice' class quarry Hunslet - Velinheli


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I've been documenting the build of this wonderful little kit over on the NGRM and 009 Society forums, and have now finally got around to doing so on here (don't ask me why I didn't just do it in parallel, as I don't know!)

 

Anyhow, this is a brand new kit from Brian Madge and is complete apart from paint, tools and time! There are not really a great many tools required, a set of small screwdrivers for the valve gear and a few files and other general tools are all that's required. You can of course go all-out and constuct the main body with solder, but the instructions do say it's not a necessity. I have used solder thus far for all the nickel and brass components.

 

So enough waffle, on with some photos; first off is the contents of the kit itself, with a 30cm ruler for scale

 

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And once the chassis unit is assembled, it looks something like this

 

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Once that was tested and running, the main frames were built up and the cranks added, along with the first set of rods, the body is in place to add weight for test running, as it's a nice heavy whitemetal casting!

 

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While the chassis was being tested I made a start on the piston rods and one side has been assembled, but not yet finished

 

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And finally a couple of photos of the detailed body resting on the footplate to give a decent impression of the finished article

 

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It was notice after these photos were taken that the castings for the chimney, filler cap and whistle were a little out of true (the cruelty of photography!) but Brian had already realised this and some re-cast replacements were already in the post, now that IS customer service for you! He has also turned me a brass dome, like the real Valenheli has which will be fitted after painting.

 

I've found the valve gear to have a bit of a tight spot when running forwards (but not backwards) and am currently investigating how to cure this before the rest of the rods are fitted as I'd like it to run smoothly (for obvious reasons!). The motor drives a lay-shaft to both sets of wheels, so the rods are not doing any of the power transfer which should make it easier. I'm pretty sure they are near-as quartered properly so I don't think that has anything to do with the problem.

 

The next step (other than the valve gear) is to build the rest of the superstructure, namely the cab side and back sheets and other small details, and fit some couplings.

 

If anyone would like any other photographs of either tha basic components or the loco's progress please don;'t hesitate to ask, as I have taken plenty of them!

 

Any comments are welcome

 

Cheers

 

J

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I think I've finally got on top of the tight spot, and it only involved de-soldering the rods, taking them off and reaming them out a bit more! It now has a bit of a waddle as it moves forward, but no discernable catch so fingers crossed that's that problem solved!

 

As mentioned before some replacement castings were on the way, well they have arrived and have been fitted. I've also done a bit of work on the cab area. The firebox details have been added (super-glue was used on these fiddly bits!) the steps have been soldered to the frames and the side and back sheets fitted, this time with low-melt solder.

 

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The cab side sheets have etched overlays with the rivet details, but I will glue these on, because, despite my attempts, I just could not get them to stay soldered on. Once I had one piece sweated on, heating it for the other one just resulted in the first one coming away and me getting cross! That'll be done once the current frames/cab assembly has had a good clean in my ultra-sonic bath and a scrub to get rid of asny nasties that might not work with the glue.

 

Cheers

 

J

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Thanks guys, It really is a cracking little kit to build, and Mozzer, don't let me stop you!

 

Test fitting of the first cylinder/motion assembly has now been done, and it looks great as it moves! It actually seems to have purpose now!

 

Since these photos were taken I've also rpaired the damage done when I knocked it onto the floor (I wasn't very happy about that!) Ive also trimmed back the bolt on the crosshead, and adsded the actual piston rod (from the NS rod, not the steel pin, as I thought a soldered joint would be stronger) The cylinder has also been fixed to the frames and the rod to the crank on the rear driving wheel. I just need to get the other side done now and that's all the moving bits sorted!

 

Also in the photos can be seen the driver figure (from Brian) just held in place with blu-tack at the moment but it really does give a feel for the finished loco!

 

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Cheers

 

J

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  • RMweb Gold

I very much like this - especially the use of a kind of 'motorised bogie' for the main power unit.

 

Out of interest, does anyone remember (or, indeed, has anyone got any photos of) an assembled Saltford Models / Merlin Loco Works etched kit for one of these in 009, dating back to the early 1980s (designed and produced by Brian Clarke)?

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You're making a nice job of it so far Jaymz.

These aren't my favourite class of n.g. loco but I could really be tempted to build one.

 

Out of interest, does anyone remember (or, indeed, has anyone got any photos of) an assembled Saltford Models / Merlin Loco Works etched kit for one of these in 009, dating back to the early 1980s (designed and produced by Brian Clarke)?

 

I remember seeing an unbuilt one during a visit to Brian's house, possibly in the early nineties during a 'small engine rally', - Brian commented that he kept it a secret that he still had one as if word got out he would be inundated with offers for it!

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I've not thought of it as a power bogie before, but I'm aiming to have it completely removable for the inevitable maintanance. It'll be fiddly to re-assemble, but I'm not aiming to have it in bits regularly (touch wood!)

 

I've had a small disaster, while fitting the piston rod to the second crosshead, some of the solder got inside and seized the whole thing! So it has been dismantled and will be cleaned up, then re-assembled with some vaseline on the pivot to try to keep it from getting all clogged up again!

 

I did surprise myself when it happened though, I just calmly uttered a naughty word, de-soldered the assembly and tidied everything up and left it to cool. No hint of a temper tantrum or an attempt to repair it while it was still hot and making myself crosser! That's more progress than building the whole loco!

 

Cheers

 

J

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for that Penrith, certainly a few detail photos in there that will be useful (even though it's a different clss Hunslet, there are a lot of similarities!)

 

A new set of crosshead/rods and associated 14BA nuts and bolts arrived in the post on Tuesday (Thanks ever so much Brian!) and I have managed to assemble a second coupling/piston rod and fitted it to the chassis (of course I knocked the other pistom rod off in the process, so that will be glued for ease of both the job and my sanity!)

 

I have tested the chassis and it still seems to run as it did before so the second cylinder assembly was soldered in place and tested again, I was shocked that nothing had gone wrong!

 

So the next step is to finish off the body detailing and fit the couplings, followed by a good clean up and then into the paint shops!

 

Here's a couple of photos of the valve gear in place

 

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Cheers

 

J

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No need to apologise Penrith, they are the same class just a cabbed version (which I understand is the next release planned by Brian). I thought Holy War was one of the smaller Hunslets so it's my mistake!

 

Richard, I'm not able to give you an indication of scale as I don't have the measurements of the real thing to hand, but I shall investigate. Different locos within the class did have detail differences such as chimney height and boiler fitting arrangements, so that could affect the scale appearance.

 

Cheers

 

J

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And once the chassis unit is assembled, it looks something like this

 

...

If anyone would like any other photographs of either tha basic components or the loco's progress please don;'t hesitate to ask, as I have taken plenty of them!

 

Been away and missed the start of this topic. Great build.

I am an admirer of Brian's kits and especially the drive units.

I have one question and that is regarding the attachment of the rods to the wheels. They appear to be plain and undrilled in the photo did you have to drill them for crank pins? also looking at a chassis here I can't imagine how you would get the pins ( 16BA bolts? ) set in them as there seems to be no clearance behind the wheels.

I have to admit that I am surprised that this little unit has the precision to be able to drive rods and the valve gear.

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Thanks for your questions, and for reading!

 

ScotsRegion. Its not too bad, as long as you take your time and read the instructions thoroughly as you go. Some basic soldering skills are recommended, if only for the frames, the rest should be possible to glue together (although maybe not as strong).

 

Kenton, the rods were already drilled for the 14BA bolts which were ready fitted in the cranks. Both wheels are gear driven internally, so there isn't actually any drive provided by the rods which make construction a little easier!

 

I hope this helps, feel free to ask more if needed!

 

Cheers

 

J

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After a coat of grey undercoat my plan was to post some 'works grey' photos, but then I got to thinking that there is never just grey on a loco, the smokebok at the very least would be black, so I set about adding a bit of colour. The bright red parts have been painted (buffer beams, cranks, wheels, and inner frames) and then I started double checking reference photos for which bits should be black and have ended up adding some detail bits instead. These include the tool hooks on the tank, a bit of relief detail on the springs and something to represennt the boiler under the tank, the coal bunker, the whistle, the (what I presume is) guard bar at the front and the pipe and actuation gear for the vacuum brakes.

 

So here are a few pictures to illustrate said additions

 

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Full side profile with vacuum brake gear under cab, regulator between cab and smokebox, whistle on smokebox and spring/gap filling.

 

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The brake gear in close up, made from offcuts of N/S sprue and some brass wire, the regulator was also made from the same N/S fret, from a 'Knightswork' kit

 

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The guard bar from a piece of Evergreen square section and the brass wire vacuum pipe are visible here

 

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Into the cab showing the coal bunker, which may not be 100% correct, but the best I could do from the photos I could find. The tool hooks are als visible, also from a fret from a 'Knightswork' kit, they started life as rings, but had a section cut out, and I'm rather pleased with them, as I don't know how I would've made them otherwise!

 

I've also painted the driver figure, and here he is ready for action, although what sort of action with a pose like that, I'm not sire. He is designed to fit into the cab with his hand on the regulator, and does so splendidly, and looks much more comfortable there too!

 

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So now it's time to get some black paint on and maybe press Velinheli into some test services, rather than posing on my photo plank!

 

Cheers

 

J

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Dave, it is much appreciated!

 

I've taken a few photos of Velinheli in works grey livery, although not yet in service, as the dome is yet to be fitted! I also intend to order some worksplates from Narrow Planet (but not the nameplates as these are in the kit, and very good they are too!)

The more observant may notice the firebox that has been fabricated below the footplate, this is just three bits of plasticard to represent the three more visible sides of the firebox and glued to the underside of the footplate, carefully avoiding the drive mechanism and still allowing removal of the drive unit.

 

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I think a brass smokebox door dart will be fitted once I've got one, but that can wait as it's do-able after everything else!

 

I gave it a bit of a run again this afternoon and since painting (although I'm sure not related) the loco has developed a limp when running forwards. I'm not sure how to fathom why it's almost sticking in one direction and not the other, I've checked the cranks and the quartering doesn't seem to've shifted at all so I don't think it's that. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be glad to hear them!

 

Cheers

 

J

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  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi Jaymz,

 

Did you ever sort out the running on this loco? Also have you finished her and put the nameplates on etc?

 

I've just re-read the thread as I'm about to start building mine. So far I've painted the driver and ordered some works/nameplates from Narrow Planet.

 

Look forwards to an update.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

 

 

 

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I'm afraid I haven't really done much in the last month, I've ordered the worksplates from Narrow Planet, and judging by the artwork, they look good!

 

I had a bit of a look at the valve gear to check for any inconsistencies, and after a bit of a tweak it ran a bit better, still not 100% but its getting there!

 

When the plates arrive I'll get them fitted and update my photos!

 

Cheers

 

J

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for the reply Jaymz.

 

Sounds as if you're getting there with the running properties of this kit which is good to hear.

 

I'll start a thread on my blog once I get going on the build.

 

The Narrow Planet nameplates are beautifully made. I'm just awaiting confirmation from Steve on the etch.

 

I look forward to seeing your kit finished.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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