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The ?100 Project ? A complete layout build described in 9 days


Dave777
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Blimey! What a compelling read. Totally amazed by the techniques and straightforward way that all of this is explained in. Superb Dave. I also have to hand it to you for managing to pick up an Airfix 2D for £6 which I think is very good... given their rarety. However, alternatiev stock can easily be picked up for less and I've managed to pick up some old (Lima and Hornby I think) Mk1s for no more than £5 at collectors fairs so I think that the pricing is still totally valid.

This is a wonderful thread Dave... and I agree with Pete, and although I never subscribed to the "24" hype, I'm hooked on this one. Good luck with the rest of the project.

Jon

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Really good Dave. I used the hanging basket liner on my boys layout but didn't add it this way, and I like the idea and will give it a try on some of the other bits that are left to do. The speed of the project is really encouraging too. Superb. Roll on instalment 8

Jon

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Great stuff. The hanging basket liner is very effective - I must try that - and the earth is a neat trick.

 

The tank looks very good, the masking tape sections worked well. I don't know much about such installations but I do have a few suggestions:

- The supports need to be much, much fatter (6-8mm), and you'd need 3 or 4 for that tank. There's no visual reference for size but if it were say 3m diameter by 10m long it would weigh something like 60 tonnes...

- The tank needs to be inside a walled area - a "bund" - which will catch any leak. I can't remember the exact rule but the volume of the bund should be more than that of the tank, so it would probably need to be 10-12mm tall.

- An inspection hatch would be provided, usually a round "manhole" on the top. There might be a ladder or walkway too.

 

In addition the ends of such tanks are usually domed or reinforced, but they look OK (just say it is a cover over a domed end!). Also no I'm sure the pipework wouldn't look like that, but it is better than no pipework! Anyway I hope those tips are useful.

 

Looking forward to tomorrow!

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Really brilliant stuff Dave.

 

A brilliant read and inspirational to boot!

 

As Pete as mentioned-on par with 24. Cue 24 'ticking' music!

 

Look forwards to the next instalment.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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- The tank needs to be inside a walled area - a "bund" - which will catch any leak. I can't remember the exact rule but the volume of the bund should be more than that of the tank, so it would probably need to be 10-12mm tall.

 

 

The Oil storage regulations came into force 2001 - I'm not sure if there was anything prior to that. Presuming that this layout is in the 1970s (BR Blue) then different regs may apply - but even the Health & Safety at work act was only 1974.

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The Oil storage regulations came into force 2001 - I'm not sure if there was anything prior to that. Presuming that this layout is in the 1970s (BR Blue) then different regs may apply - but even the Health & Safety at work act was only 1974.

 

I was doing my HNC in motor vehicle engineering and management in the early to mid 1970's (I looked out of the window of Watford College on to the WCML and saw a fantastic variety of trains including the APT), and bunds were a requirement for oil and fuel storage tanks-petrol tanks had to be underground with much more rigorous requirements which was one reason why many fleets were deisel (another was that hardly anyone ran a diesel car by choice so there was little theft!)

 

Ed

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Just out of interest, how much could DIY track and points be built for with the same approach?

 

Ed

 

With PCB sleepers and bullhead rail probably pretty cheaply but with a big trade off in terms of time spent.

 

David

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With PCB sleepers and bullhead rail probably pretty cheaply but with a big trade off in terms of time spent.

 

David

 

The other thing to think about is if its your first time building trackwork you'll need track gauges, they can be costly at first plus tools to file rail, split the copper clad and soldering supplies.

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I have also read of people microwaving their earth obtained in this way to kill off anything that may be present in it, which sounds sensible.

Personally, I'd dry the sludge by baking it in the oven - it dries faster and you'll also kill off anything that might be present, such as slime moulds that you really don't want on your layout. Heating it to over 63 degrees C for 30 minutes will kill any organisms.

 

BTW - This is top stuff Dave!

Edited by Pugsley
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Still as interesting as day 1 and I must applaud the quality too, cheap does not have to mean poor! Ground cover is great, I have some hanging basket liner like that and it's also good for making hedges, brambles and if you are careful the finer branches of wire framed trees.

The use of earth to represent earth is really obvious now I think about it! Are dried tea leaves going to make an appearance for foliage or scatter? What about fine sawdust too, that can de got free as well.

The cheapest method for tree making is multi core household cable, off cuts from skips are rare now copper is so valuable, but can be got from dead household appliance cables. The downside is you have to add strength to the trunk, either with tape or solder. I also use beading wire, which is about £1.50 a reel.

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The progress you have made is spectacular. How much time did this take? I know you have been working on it every day but was it an hour or two here and there or were you going like the clappers?

 

Hi Stephen, way back on the first post I mentioned that the layout is actually complete, so what we're seeing here isn't strictly a day by day account as such - more of a retrospective :)

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