The ?100 Project ? A complete layout build described in 9 days

[JCL]

I feel like I've turned up to the party as the dishes are being washed and put away! This was a great read from start to finish, and well done getting in under the hundred pounds.

[Kaian]

Well done, I have really enjoyed your thread.

It has given me things to think about.

 

I have recently just thought about starting a layout after not getting any where a few years ago due to work commitments, I won't be sticking to £100 as I have already spent way more than that but I can see how using other every day items can be used instead of buying lots from the model shops.

 

Thanks

[SXHALL]

Dave,

 

Don't knock yourself!

The thread, idea and finished layout have all contributed to making it such a great thread and read!

It really is amazing what you can do, when you put your mind to it.

It's also given some great inspiration to all of us, that we can get a layout built which doesn't have to be huge or expensive.

I have noticed a number of comments from other members on it being a good challenge idea.

 

I've actually thought of a slightly different challenge idea though:

 

 

 

The OO and N gauge Setrack starter sets.

 

Both contain virtually the same elements which will make the same oval layout with a couple of sidings.

 

OO contains

 

 

7 x ST-226 No 2 Radius Double Curve

2 x ST-255 No 2 Radius Standard Curve

5 x ST-201 Double Straight

3 x ST-200 Standard Straight

1 x ST-240 Right Hand Turnout

1 x ST-241 Left Hand Turnout

1 x ST-202 Short Straight

2 x ST-270 Buffer Stop, Sleeper Built

2 x ST-271 Decoupling unit

1 x ST-273 Pair Power Connecting Clips

1 x STP-OO Plan Book

 

N Contains

• Plan Book with instructions for the system
  
• 6x Standard Straights
  
• 3x Double Straights
  
• 5x No.1 Radius Standard Curves
  
• 6x No. 1 Radius Double Curves
  
• 1x Right-Hand Point
  
• 1x Left-Hand Point
  
• 2x Sleeper-Built Buffer Stops
  
• 2x Power Clips
  

Now I'm not saying you need to go out and buy this set, but what we could do is try to build a layout using no more than what comes in this set!!

I think it could be quite an interesting challenge in itself!

 

Cheers

 

Ian

 

This would be a superb challenge for next year, only use what is in the box. I had a hope that the 2012 challenge may have been best use of an oval track to tie in with the athletics at the Olympics stadium.

 

All in this is a superb build which defeats all of the three bridges to cross (that I always see anyway) in actually building something....

• Not enough space - defeated
  
• Not enough time - defeated
  
• Not enough money - defeated
  

This is what made such a good thread to follow for me. I am now sitting at home with a box of bit's and a plank of wood......!

 

Note: plank of wood is an actual plank, not a reference to a person!!!!

[fender]

another +1 to a great and very inspirational thread.

[dseagull]

Just to add my twopennyworth, and much the same as others, I found this incredibly inspiring.

 

Also, a tip for others - Wickes have a permanent 'buy one, get one free' on tester pots of emulsion. Very useful for 'cheap modelling' of all kinds - you can use it as base cover, primer... - at only £1.35 for two, it's a bargain.

[18B]

well,

 

I think I can say that this thread has been the most influential and stimulating modelling articel I've ever read, and after buying circa 15 years of modelling mags - I've read enough to know.

 

It's the exact rolling stock I'd use, the era, the style, the look, everything!

 

thank you Dave777!

[keefr2]

As usual I'm late to the party, but I really wanted to add my thanks for such an excellent thread! Just sat down & read it from start to finish & it's really inspiring! And the watercolour weathering is brilliant - just itching to try it now, but stuck staying with my daughter 120 miles away from my models until Sunday!!

 

Thanks again, brilliant thread!!

 

On the subject of cheap baseboard materials/wood etc. I can recommend finding a local hardware/DIY store (the High St not the warehouse kind). We have one just round the corner who stocks and cuts wood for you any size etc. and has loads of offcuts piled up outside with nominal prices pencilled on. I picked up 6'x1'6" piece of 12mm ply for less than a tenner, which I think is a bit of a bargain!!

 

I wouldn't dismiss the warehouse kind of DIY store, if it has a timber cutting service. Every time the Household Management drags me to B&Q I check their offcuts bin - over the summer I have got 3 x 48 inch long offcuts of 6mm MDF (2 x 18 inch wide & 1x 21inch) for 50p each, & a 48inch x 18 inch piece of 9mm MDF for £1!! With a couple of pieces of their smooth planed timber (checked for straightness by holding it against their steel racking!) for about a fiver for cross braces, some foamboard I already had in stock (but which I think would have cost another fiver at most) I've got 12 foot of strong, light baseboard for no more than £11.50. And a spare 4 foot piece of 9mm MDF...!! Now all i've got to do is put a railway on them...!!

 

Keef

[mike knowles]

Just out of interest, how much could DIY track and points be built for with the same approach?

 

Ed

 

I did this some time ago (hence some of the prices may be out of date) - see attached.

 

Track cost comparison 4mm.xls

 

Track cost comparison 7mm.xls

 

Whilst it showed that hand built pointwork could be domne for less than the cost of RTR Pco points it was still way above the budget restrictions of this thread.

 

Great thread by the way, as others have said the weathering in paricular is really excellent.

[Class 37 37427]

A very good read, and very inspirational. I'm on a tight budget with my own plans for a model, So it has definitively given me some worthwhile idea's.

[Ramblin Rich]

I did this some time ago (hence some of the prices may be out of date) - see attached.

.........

 

Whilst it showed that hand built pointwork could be domne for less than the cost of RTR Pco points it was still way above the budget restrictions of this thread.

 

 

Mike - thanks for posting these comparisons. What's obvious too that the cost of plain Peco track is way cheaper (& obviously faster) than hand building if you go for fully chaired track.

Edited November 1, 2012 by Ramblin Rich

[David41283]

Great thread, I have to say that finding second hand bargains and doing them up in the same way as your wagons has become a favourite aspect of modelling for me. Buying a dated, but sound wagon for £2-£5 at a second-hand stall and making something decent with a bit if paint and some spare parts is immensely satisfying.

 

I have managed to put together my entire stable for my Plymouth area layout (inc Bachmann N, Hornby M7, Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2, Bachmann Warship, Hornby 08, Hornby 14xx....) via e-bay and 2nd hand, and I can proudly say I've spent no more than £50 for any loco, all pretty much brand new and boxed with detail packs etc. It certainly makes me happier about re-painting, weathering and renumbering an engine if I've not spent £100+ on it!

 

Although this is an extreme example it shows what can be achieved with a bit of ingenuity.

 

Great job!

[Andrew P]

Hi Dave, just re read this again and it is an insperation for my next project, KISS, (keep it simple stupid,) It works every time and stops the old problem I have of an over crowded layout that dose NOT look like the real thing, Well done

 

Andy.

[keefr2]

Great thread, I have to say that finding second hand bargains and doing them up in the same way as your wagons has become a favourite aspect of modelling for me. Buying a dated, but sound wagon for £2-£5 at a second-hand stall and making something decent with a bit if paint and some spare parts is immensely satisfying.

 

I have managed to put together my entire stable for my Plymouth area layout (inc Bachmann N, Hornby M7, Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2, Bachmann Warship, Hornby 08, Hornby 14xx....) via e-bay and 2nd hand, and I can proudly say I've spent no more than £50 for any loco, all pretty much brand new and boxed with detail packs etc. It certainly makes me happier about re-painting, weathering and renumbering an engine if I've not spent £100+ on it!

 

Although this is an extreme example it shows what can be achieved with a bit of ingenuity.

 

Great job!

 

Ditto that, this thread made me re-look at second hand stuff too! What also helped was that I was staying with my daughter in Hampshire while I read it & Alton Model Centre have recently opened a new second hand section! The very helpful owner ran both a blue & green Hornby Class 29 that he had in stock for me. While the blue one did look decidely used the green one looked like it had hardly ever been out of its box. And while the blue one ran pretty well straight away (at least for an old Hornby 29!) the green 'un wasn't that good. However after about 5 minutes running up & down his 8 feet or so of test track it really had improved markedly. So I bought it, & while I really need a 22 not a 29, & while I know of the inaccuracy of the Hornby model in depicting even a 29, at £27.50 I feel confident enough about either trying to improve it as a 29 - or even have a go at 'converting' it to a 22....!! Bit cheaper than a new Dapol one....

[Brake Compo]

I only found this inspiring thread recently - one of the most uplifting and inventive articles that I have seen in a long while.

 

The idea of £100 2013 challenge is exciting - I for one am keen to prove that it can also be done in 7mm scale for £100!

[rodshaw]

All the more challenging given the likely increase in the RPI over the year, making £100 worth about £96!

[Guest Linthorpe]

Having only just arrived in RMWebland I noticed this pinned at the top which in it self is obviously a great idea as I suspect it would soon have slipped into no mans land.

 

Anyway back to the point, what a great achievement. Whilst not wanting to go quite to this extreme I am very limited in my budget, although thankfully I already have the major items, but I do see myself building a 1980's layout using very much 1980's techniques.

[marc smith]

What a great thread, and one I haven't read nearly enough!

We all think of railway modelling as an expensive hobby,

and of course, it can be....

However, you have proved that this needn't be the case

 

I myself find I am trawling the boxes of secondhand bits, underneath the tables at shows

It can throw up some interesting, useful odds & ends

and if it's something that looks like it needs a lot of work, make an offer!

 

Re your cardboard baseboards, I've seen a few articles on them,

and a few examples "in the flesh" - not many, granted

but again - it can be done!

 

For anyone considering this type of baseboard, I would add;

try looking on building sites, for offcuts of foamboard....

(I believe Naturol's super "Castle Works" circular OO steelworks was built on a free offcut)

 

Several pieces (the same thickness, obviously) could be sandwiched

between hardboard, and/or cardboard - to form a laminated baseboard

light, but very strong

 

Even small offcuts of insulation foamboard can be useful for adding height to the landscape

It's easily carved into shape, and much lighter than chicken wire and plaster bandage....

 

Also, try your local B&Q for offcuts of wood....

It's surprising how many people buy a sheet of wood,

get it cut to size, and leave a perfectly useable sized offcut....

I've got several pieces, picked up for around 50p - £1

out of sight of SWMBO, of course

 

Great thread, and a nice read

If you had gone over the £100 target

I still think it would have been a huge success

 

Well done Dave

Edited November 6, 2012 by marc smith

[8752]

I read about this layout first in November`s BRM and, as my old Gran would`ve said, was "fair wondermazed!" The thread was even better. I knew how it would turn out but the photos were so much more informative and the constant input from other members fascinating. I acquired a panelled door from a DIY store a few years ago, cheap because it had a small hole in one side, with a view to using it as a baseboard. Time it came down from the garage roofspace!!

As an aside, does anyone remember an RM article many, many years ago on a modeller who had built a complete stud of SR locos mainly from cardboard?

[invercloy]

What a refreshing layout thread! It's really made me think about how much I spend on things and what alternative materials I could use to achieve the same results.

 

Definitely worthy of exhibiting all round the country to inspire others. Don't worry about 5 wagons or point operation, it really ought to inspire lots of people to get building.

 

Thanks for one of the most enjoyable threads I've ever read on any version of RMweb!

[andytrains]

Another way of obtaining cheap material is from Skips. Worth asking if you can take the item as just taking stuff out of skips, is technically theft. (I know pathetic isn't it?).

Also do it when the weather is dry as any wet or damp material may warp.

[Removed a/c]

Another way of obtaining cheap material is from Skips. Worth asking if you can take the item as just taking stuff out of skips, is technically theft. (I know pathetic isn't it?).

Also do it when the weather is dry as any wet or damp material may warp.

 

So this tip is not for UK readers then :D

Edited December 14, 2012 by thebritfarmer

[PatB]

What an excellent thread. Very reminiscent of 1950s magazine articles when discretionary spending money was tighter than today and the available range of ready to use modelling specific materials much smaller.

 

One thought on the cardboard baseboards. If I were looking to use cardboard, I'd consider laminating several layers together with the "grain" at 90 degrees in alternating layers in the maner of plywood. I've tried this for other purposes and the result can be immensely strong, stiff and light. Above all, because the base material is free or nearly so, the cost is not significantly increased. You do require a flat surface to construct it on, though (kitchen table ?) and, ideally, something flat and portable to weight the sandwich while setting (inverted coffee table?).

[Class 108]

excellent piece of work. I am new to modelling. When I read about this in nov brm I was inspired to get on with my first layout using stuff from the garage and scraps of cardboard, polystyrene and paper mash on a a wooden baseboard. I will try to model on some card boxes to practice my scenery skills. Nice one mate.

 

[MrWhippyO]

I have followed this with interest, and I have to say, it's is a fantastic layout you have created Dave. I will be using as many of these techniques as I can on my layout!

 

Keep up the good work!

James

[TheAlchemist]

Such kind comments - thanks everyone.

 

7 - Scenery

 

So it’s time to transform the Martian landscape. There’s an enormous range of scatters, turfs and static grasses out there to help the modeller create the ideal greenery on a layout. I use quite a few of them myself, but my main product I use is the one I’m going to apply here – hanging basket liner. You can buy this in a variety of formats (I use a big roll of the stuff), but the limited amount I need for this layout means a mere £1.49 at Homebase will secure you a suitably sized circle.

 

s5.jpg

 

s6.jpg

 

 

There’s two ways that modellers use this – some stick it directly to the layout, backing side down, whereas others like me prefer to stick it ‘hairy’ side down with the backing facing up.

 

One problem with PVA glue is that it creates a ‘shine’ when dry, so a tip I leant off a fellow RMwebber (and I can't remember who it was ) is to add ordinary talcum powder. Sounds weird, I know, but trust me – it does work. So here I’ve applied a PVA:water (+ talc) mix to the landscape and stuck the hanging basket down.

 

s7.jpg

 

s8.jpg

 

 

Next morning, give the backing material a careful but firm tug and away it comes, leaving the hairy grass on the baseboard.

 

s9.jpg

 

s10.jpg

 

 

Couple of tips – firstly, don’t throw away the liner you removed as typically it’ll have lots of grass still on it. You should definitely be able to get a second application out of it, and I’ve even managed a third on occasion (this is also one advantage over the method of sticking the liner directly to the baseboard, backing side down, as with the method I’ve employed you effectively double the area you can cover).

 

s16.jpg

 

 

Secondly, improve the finished look by removing any oddities as there’s typically some strange pieces of string, rope and plastic all mixed in there.

 

s13.jpg

 

s14.jpg

 

 

At this stage it will be really hairy...

 

s12.jpg

 

s11.jpg

 

...so give it a bit of a trim with some kitchen scissors.

 

s15.jpg

 

 

You’ll see in these photos that to add some texture to the ground I covered any remaining exposed parts with more PVA:water (with talc) and then sprinkled on some earth from the garden. To obtain this, I simply took a few plastic cupfulls of earth straight out of the flower bed, sieved it, and then washed it in a bowl with soap & water (washing dirt to remove dirt – too weird). Then drain off the water and leave the sludge to dry on newspaper and soon you’ll have free, earthy scatter material.

 

s1.jpg

 

s2.jpg

 

 

You can use a kitchen bowl and sieve for this, so I’ve not costed either of these up, but it’s probably a better idea purchasing a cheap bowl and sieve specifically for modelling purchases (you may be able to make out my ‘no food’ writing on my only-for-modelling-purposes bowl). I have also read of people microwaving their earth obtained in this way to kill off anything that may be present in it, which sounds sensible.

Sprinkle this liberally onto the glue and once dry your ground should have a decent texture and colour to it. Vacuum off any remaining or loose material and you’re done.

 

s17.jpg

 

s18.jpg

 

s19.jpg

 

 

To add a bit of variety to the embankments I decided to make my own ‘ground foam’ or ‘turf’. I purchased some ‘value’ scourers from the local supermarket for 14p. Taking off the scourer part I cut up the foam underneath into small pieces, continually cutting and cutting again until they were the right size (with hindsight, I should have gone smaller). To colour them I mixed them up with some green enamel from my eBay-purchased collection, left them to dry, and then stuck them in place using PVA.

 

s3.jpg

 

s4.jpg

 

 

It’s not going to give Woodland Scenics any sleepless nights but for the small outlay it adds some additional texture to the grassy areas.

 

s21.jpg

 

s20.jpg

 

 

My fuel depot needed to go in next. The fuel tank itself is a toilet paper roll that's had the circumference reduced a bit by cutting it lengthways, rolling it tighter and then gluing. The ends were made from card. I then covered the tank with masking tape and scored some sections into it.

 

s22.jpg

 

 

The box structure next to it is made from card, with plastic drinking straws and card scraps used for the pipework and pumping controlling box thingy (this is the back, showing how I just shoved the straw through)

 

s22b.jpg

 

 

A coating of primer, weathering and finally some dials printed out from the interweb provided the finishing touches.

 

s23.jpg

 

 

I've no idea how the entire contraption is meant to work, and there's an air of cliché about it. I’d recommend referencing some prototype photos to anyone else attempting this - there were plenty of straws left over which I could have used to add additional pipework. But like many other aspects of this layout - given the time restraints - this is about suggesting what can be done.

 

Spends:

Hanging basket liner - £1.49

Scourers - £0.14

Straws - £0.18

Earth scatter material - free

 

 

Nearing the end now, next up it’s time to add some details.

The concept of mixing talc with your PVA has its origins in industrial practice. At one time various 'extenders' were used to 'knock the gloss off' paints and varnishes, with the use of barytes, calcium carbonate and/or silica being in common use for many years. The economics of manufacture and the ability to stir-in talc in the final colour matching phase to adjust the final gloss level became widely used. Fortunately talc does not contribute achange the paint or varnish colour beyond that which can be adjusted at this late stage

The Alchemist.