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2mm scale SECR dropside


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I know that it's probably down to personal choice, but the 2mm scale wagons I've had printed (for example http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1009/entry-10173-2mmfs-gwr-w1-cattle-wagon-3d-printed/ and http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1009/entry-9258-2mmfs-3d-printing-gwr-outside-framed-van-part-3/) have been drawn up as complete vehicles rather than as a sprue of parts.

 

Hopefully having them in the flat like you have done will yield a better print than some of mine turned out - one of the outside framed vans had a very dodgy print quality on one side.

 

The image you've posted does look very promising though. Just out of interest, have you drawn the plank detail on the inside of the sides and ends too?

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Ian

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If this was printed horizontally, in grey prime by materialise or by Chris Ward, it would produce a very smooth finish, like a plastic kit.

Shapeways FUD can have variable results, especially with complete models.

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If this was printed horizontally, in grey prime by materialise or by Chris Ward, it would produce a very smooth finish, like a plastic kit.

Shapeways FUD can have variable results, especially with complete models.

 

This is pretty much what I am hoping for. I'd much rather have to assemble a kit of parts if the detail is crisp, than have a complete model but requiring all the cleaning up of print lines etc.

 

Ian, the "B" sides are as flat as possible,and have the plank gaps only, no strapping or bolt detail. I've a feeling this would be best for printing, and add detail if necessary afterwards with strip. I dont know what the inside of one of these looks like actually. I think at least one is preserved on the IOW.

 

This is my first post in this group, but I have been following with much interest since the beginning. I'm particularly inspired by all the vintage freight rolling stock in 2mm scale.

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The argument here is of course which is easier: Building a kit or cleaning up print lines?

 

I'm open to both, All my wagons thus far have been one piece with brake gear to be added separate, but I also have an experimental artwork for an underframe with full brake detail to go under Association RCH bodies.

 

I think a solution as above would be good for my Vans, which are rather expensive to print as they are.

 

What would you stick them together with though?

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That's a good question Richard. I'm hoping that superglue will work. Otherwise some trials will have to be done. Any advice would be welcome.

 

edit: PS I think probably one day we will be able to get designs printed affordably with perfect resolution on all sides, so perhaps one piece designs like your vans are more future proof than the kit option.

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I've tweaked the spring and axlebox area a bit. The axleboxes are still overscale to allow room for the bearings, but have slimmed down a touch from the first pic. hopefully they wont look so simplified in 2mm scale. I decided not to try and represent the leaves in the springs. Next step is to actually join the 2mm scale assoc., buy the parts that I'm intending to use in this project, and make sure that the project will fit the parts.

post-2980-0-24422600-1347190661_thumb.png

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I've tweaked the spring and axlebox area a bit. The axleboxes are still overscale to allow room for the bearings, but have slimmed down a touch from the first pic. hopefully they wont look so simplified in 2mm scale.

 

You can file the top hat bearings a long way before you run into problems. For the association etched RCH axle boxes you file them back to the thickness of two etch layers (0.020") and then put the axle boxes on the flat area produced. I dare say you might be able to go a bit further, but I never measured up or tried it. If you could file down to one thickness (0.010"), the W irons, then it would be possible to have whatever size axle box you like.

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Richard, I hope so, Atso has reported in this group detail at .1mm successfully printed in PG.

 

Rich, that's worth knowing, thanks. I've been working from the diagram of recommended standards for freight stock on the 2mm scale assoc. website.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A progress report on this project. I have joined the 2mm Assoc, and had a selection of parts delivered, very quickly, less than 48 hrs for the parts in fact!

 

Shown is a complete sprue for one wagon, although I intend to print in pairs. The vertical projection from one area of sprue is to meet I materialise's minimum size requirements, following advice from Richard Jones.

 

Mission for this week is to get the model accepted for printing. It seems that this often involves a bit of trial and error, and I'm grateful to those who have gone before and reported back in this forum.

 

The big question in my mind now is, assuming the model gets accepted, how much of the detail will print? I'm prepared to use society castings for the springs and axleboxes, but if the rivet and plank detail on the body parts is a fail then it's back to the drawing board. Theoretically it should work, based on what others have achieved, but we shall see.

 

Cheers, Eddie.

post-2980-0-98668600-1349009334_thumb.png

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Eddie,

 

The springs and axleboxes you have drawn should be fine. I have used Shapeways and had my models printed in their Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD), the image below shows one of my completed cattle wagons, the axleboxes and springs are also my designs printed in FUD.

GWR W2 Complete (Brake Side)

 

Ian

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I can't wait to see the results of these, I had done my LNWR cattle wagon artwork for printing in prime grey as well, but as I kept adding stuff it became clear it would have to be done in FUD, which necessitates a massive supporting cage to ensure it gets printed the right way round!

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Thanks for the interest Gents. I hope so Ian, that cattle wagon looks fantastic btw.

 

Cheers Richard, and good luck with that^! "massive supporting cage" sounds like expensive hassle?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Unfortunately I have to report a fail with this project. As anyone who has read AJ427's thread will now know, I materialise won't print sprues of parts. To get each part printed seperately would end up costing far too much for such a tiny model. I would probably still give it a shot if I was certain of a good result, but it also seems that orientation of the parts can't be specified for certain, which kind of pulls the rug out from under the whole idea.

 

I'm nearly done drawing a SECR/LBSC "Hurst Nelson" 12t side door mineral, as a complete wagon body, for printing at shapeways. I'll put up some pics shortly.

 

Cheers, Eddie.

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