two tone green Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Is Heljan on comparison website. Nice line up of 40's though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Should be !! Although I'm not given away free meerkats Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Leeks by any chance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR_Blue_1986 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Are they all yours? I need your job! Lol. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 These things do tend to multiply 016 by rothburyuk, on Flickr 018 by rothburyuk, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Are they all yours? I need your job! Lol. No not mine, I'm just the supplier Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR_Blue_1986 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 It's certainly a nice line up though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delticfan Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Received mine from those nice chaps at Howes, it looks stunning I'm not a 40 expert so don't notice these errors everyone is on about to me it looks like a 40. I' m happy I paid about 50 quid more than a kit costs and mine has wheels, motors, lights and is painted. It really doesn't bother me that much and I have a running model, good effort Heljan wish you would do Kestrel! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted October 26, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2014 Blue class 40 now partially weathered. the more I look at it, the more I like it as a model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delticfan Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 I agree with you, it really is a heavyweight in appearance and feel. I ran it in properly and it is so smooth due mainly to its weight. You don't see the errors there are too many good things to look at. I love the TImken printing on the roller bearing covers, the buffer beam detail is fantastic. Your weathering is spot well done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Gentlemen Now that the long wait is over I have got my hands on one, albeit temporarily and, yes it does look extremely good. However, has anyone else had any major derailment problems with theirs? There were three running at our club's monthly open day last Saturday and all of them derailed at one particular point on the layout. Bad pointwork you may say. But no other locos derail there. Last night we ran two and they derailed like crazy on other points which hadn't been tried on Saturday. Watching them trying to negotiate a handbuilt double slip was quite comical as all of the wheels seemed to have a mind of their own and went down whichever road they fancied. I have borrowed one of them and it really thumps over the all-Peco pointwork on my small layout. It seems to me that that the problem may at least partially lie in the back-to-back measurement of the wheels. I don't have the benefit of digital calipers so can't express the measurement to three decimal places, but using a crude set they appear to be approximately 29mm. apart so are striking checkrails and frogs. Just sitting a pair of Slater''s coach wheels next to the pony wheels shows the discrepancy too. I'll try and post a photo later on. At frogs on the straight the wheels thump and choose the correct road, on the curved section, and on double slips it's a bit of a lottery. Commendably, the pony trucks themselves have side control built in but this is completely negated by the fact that the axles can and do move a very long way sideways across the truck. It looks like the axle needs fitting with a collar each side of the pony truck to take out the massive sideplay. I can't believe the three locos were isolated examples but I'm surprised not to have seen any mention of this issue anywhere else. I'm sure there is a solution but the owners of the three locos are a little disappointed. But it does look great! Any comments?Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 The back to backs have been an issue for Heljan models before so I would say it is worth checking them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Steve They are out by about 1mm. on the narrow side, not good and a shame too! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard carr Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Having converted several Heljan locos to S7 it is very easy to adjust the back to back of the axles. Just unscrew the bogie cover plate and the wheels sets will drop out, carefully twist the wheels and one of them should start to move, you will then be able to move it to the correct position of 29.2mm. Pop the wheels back in, make sure the bearings are seated correctly and then screw the cover plate back on. It should n't take more than half an hour even if you have never done it before. If the back to back is narrow your loco will only derail going through point work, if they are slightly wide you should be fine. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Richard Thanks for that, was going to be my next experiment, starting with the pony wheels. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Update Getting the pony wheels out was not easy! I ended up breaking the post that they pivot on, it's a bit like a gimbal. This meant I had to strip down the entire bogie to access it and make a replacement, altogether several hours' work. The good news is that, having done one end so far, that end sails through Peco points and my Peco double slip. I will try to find an easier way to do the opposite end... I'm hoping to get away without having to widen the bogie wheels, though, as Richard says, that's fairly easy. I wasn't impressed by how difficult it was to remove a power bogie from the model, anyone wanting to DCC/sound fit is going to struggle to access the inside. I shouldn't have to do things like this on a new model. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Is it not possible to just lift the body off having removed the screws holding it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 There aren't any.....looks like the body has to be prised off but as it's not mine and there's no need for me to access the interior I'm leaving well alone! Dropping a power bogie out was very difficult and I wouldn't have had to do it if I hadn't managed to break the bogie pivot post. My fault. Investigating the derailment problem further, I think that one of the issues is that the pony truck arms are just too short, meaning that the wheels can 'crab' along the track: when they reach a point frog they can travel either way. From wide experience of building 2-6-0 steam locos, the longer the pony truck pivot the better. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 No screws, that's different from all the other O gauge locos they have produced. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard carr Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Jeff I was extracting my class 40 wheels last night and I think I have done just the same as you with the pony truck it appears to have snapped off on one of the bogies, the other end came out fine. They certainly are a bit of bu**er to remove. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted October 29, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 29, 2014 Jeff I was extracting my class 40 wheels last night and I think I have done just the same as you with the pony truck it appears to have snapped off on one of the bogies, the other end came out fine. They certainly are a bit of bu**er to remove. Richard The body is easily removed - though I actually had to read the instructions to learn how! Between the body and the bogies are 8 plastic representations of the metal bogie-support brackets on he prototype. Four of these double as covers for the body screw holes, and so have to be removed (with a pair of tweezers) before the screws can be accessed. But once done, it is easy peasy, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Thanks for the info. RTFM is key to success Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Read instructions? But I'm a bloke..................Seriously though, thanks for that uk_pm. Richard, what I did to repair my bogie involved first of all dismantling the entire bogie to remove the detached 'gimbal' (PITA), then drilling the end of the truck casting to accept a short 10 BA bolt, with a small washer under the head. This can then be trapped in the housing for the bogie. On the second bogie all I did was to prise off the bogie sideframes and twist the wheels by hand, awkward but preferable to the palaver I had with the opposite end! I've also found it beneficial to add a collar made from brass tube to the axle on each side of the pony truck casting. Otherwise, the wheels move across the casting and negate any of the side control that is built in. Hope this helps. The 40 runs much better over pointwork now but is still not infallible. I set the back-to-back using a gauge that was supplied years ago by the Gauge O Guild. Jeff PS Forgive my ignorance. What is RTFM? Is it Read The ******* Manual? (Educated guess.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Its worrying that purchasers of the Class 40 are discovering problems when running theirs over propriety track and turnouts 84B Oxley can I ask, has your alteration of the pony truck solved that problem in as much as it no longer creates derailment's but despite your work on the rest of the wheel back to backs the problem of derailments remain Are these solely caused by the wheel flanges riding over the point frogs My only Heljan is a much reworked Deltic which showed no such back to back problem on our clubs O gauge layout track and pointwork Regards Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Good guess, spot on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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