brian daniels Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Did anyone who went to Warley, mention to the Heljan guys about the problems with the '40's? Don't worry, they know! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 47107 Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Don't worry, they know! And no doubt they'll take their usual course of action about it -- nothing ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Were the Hymeks done to US NMRA specs, what's their back to back? On the Hymek I bought a long while ago the back to back was tight on two of the axles. Once adjusted out the loco became a very reliable runner. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted December 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 11, 2014 Last night I had some spare time so I widened my pony truck axle back-to-backs to 29.2mm (ish)- it was only about 0.5mm per axle but it has made a significant improvement - I think I could probably remove the slip on plastic tube collars I added to keep the wheels pressed out against the bogey frames but its just as easy to leave them. I did a few other little jobs - headcode disk fitting is interesting given the position of the lamp brackets... Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I'm glad all is working well chris, please post some pictures of the loco once all the decorations are on Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted January 12, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2015 I'm glad all is working well chris, please post some pictures of the loco once all the decorations are on Had a little play today.. Apologies for the tweezers holding up the street lamp in the foreground -I was just experimenting with locations! Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
les101975jud Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Sorry I am a bit late to this thread. I only test ran my two Class 40s last night after receiving them late last year on their release. I am a bit disappointed after experiencing the derailment problem on both of them. A fellow member at the club rooms informed me of this thread. It's a shame that such a fine looking model which in my view captures the look of the class very well is let down by such a simple issue. Yes, I can check and adjust the back to back on the wheels and do something about any excessive side play but should I have to when the model is sold as RTR? I should say that I have four other Heljan locos and they have all run very well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic17 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 I just thought I'd post up a few photos of my 40068 GD. It has been a modification/enhancement project for a few months now and is finally pretty much complete. Whilst the Heljan 40 is a lovely model I've always thought (see previous postings!!!) that they messed up somewhat with the angle of the front windows as they were too vertical and they just didn't do it for me. When I got into O guage diesels it was always my intention to try and enhance my models as best I could so I had to do a bit of drastic work here which meant cutting the cabs off!!!. A few of you have been asking how I was getting on so here we are...... The bodywork around the front windows was carefully cut using a fine saw at the bottom and top (roof) and sides to release. These were then glued back in place at the correct angle to the vertical (after studying various photos etc) and everything fillered, sanded and then painted into BR Blue to match the rest of the loco. It sounds easy here but it did take some time to get it all smooth etc. I really should have taken photos as the project progressed! Various other bits have been added too, namely:- SevernMill worksplates DJParkins headcode discs (the open discs) - the closed discs were the original Heljan ones refettled to sit closer to the body BR arrows removed and smaller new ones (Fox) added at one end only to represent 40068 in 1980 HJ Seam lines have been smoothed off so a bit of repainting was needed around the nose ends Replica railways numbers/Precision TOPS panels added 'Bodywork' at the bottom of the nose end front doors was filed down as it was a litttle bit too deep Extra warning flashes added in the positions carried by 40068 4 new drivers side windows made (using part of the previous windows) - had to do this due to the new angle of the cab windows Weathered using Railmatch enamels with various enhancements here and there. The 3 front windows at each end were split up and filed individually to get a more flush glazed effect. So was it worth it? - for me yes - it certains looks even more like a 40 now and has been a fantastic project over the winter months. Just need to fit DCC Sound now!.....there's always a job on the model railway front...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 I just thought I'd post up a few photos of my 40068 GD. It has been a modification/enhancement project for a few months now and is finally pretty much complete. Whilst the Heljan 40 is a lovely model I've always thought (see previous postings!!!) that they messed up somewhat with the angle of the front windows as they were too vertical and they just didn't do it for me. When I got into O guage diesels it was always my intention to try and enhance my models as best I could so I had to do a bit of drastic work here which meant cutting the cabs off!!!. A few of you have been asking how I was getting on so here we are...... The bodywork around the front windows was carefully cut using a fine saw at the bottom and top (roof) and sides to release. These were then glued back in place at the correct angle to the vertical (after studying various photos etc) and everything fillered, sanded and then painted into BR Blue to match the rest of the loco. It sounds easy here but it did take some time to get it all smooth etc. I really should have taken photos as the project progressed! Various other bits have been added too, namely:- SevernMill worksplates DJParkins headcode discs (the open discs) - the closed discs were the original Heljan ones refettled to sit closer to the body BR arrows removed and smaller new ones (Fox) added at one end only to represent 40068 in 1980 HJ Seam lines have been smoothed off so a bit of repainting was needed around the nose ends Replica railways numbers/Precision TOPS panels added 'Bodywork' at the bottom of the nose end front doors was filed down as it was a litttle bit too deep Extra warning flashes added in the positions carried by 40068 4 new drivers side windows made (using part of the previous windows) - had to do this due to the new angle of the cab windows Weathered using Railmatch enamels with various enhancements here and there. The 3 front windows at each end were split up and filed individually to get a more flush glazed effect. So was it worth it? - for me yes - it certains looks even more like a 40 now and has been a fantastic project over the winter months. Just need to fit DCC Sound now!.....there's always a job on the model railway front...... Any chance of highlighting the cut and shut lines, I can't work it out from your description. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic17 Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Any chance of highlighting the cut and shut lines, I can't work it out from your description. Thanks. Hello - I'm not quite sure how to draw lines on my photos - but basically with the cab side windows removed a cut was made across the top of the roof from one side of the loco to the other side ( a few mm's behind the top of the windows) and then a cut was made in front of the 3 front windows from one side of the loco to the other side (a few mm's in front of the wipers). I then had to cut sideways on each side to join the 2 cuts and hence release the 3 front windows together as a one piece. A bit of fiddly work was needed to repair the rainstrip when all was fastened back together. I'm suppose I'm glad you can't see the cuts I made - I must have made a reasonably good job of fillering and sanding etc! I am thinking of doing a similar modification to a Heljan 37 at some point using the better detailed windows from a spare class 40 bodyshell - next time I will take some photos as I go! Thanks for your interest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wychcan Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 I am sure by now someone has installed a sound chip into these locos. Well i am looking to install a esu locsound. But when it comes to the head code lights i am stuck, as they are all on one circuit board, do i have to replace this with led's? Any suggestions and or photos would be much appreciated thanks Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard carr Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I am sure by now someone has installed a sound chip into these locos. Well i am looking to install a esu locsound. But when it comes to the head code lights i am stuck, as they are all on one circuit board, do i have to replace this with led's? Any suggestions and or photos would be much appreciated thanks Nigel I would say yes you will need to replace the lighting board I can't see any way that you can control them individually. It might be possible to cut the pcb circuit and rewire but equally why would you want to. Use the discs to hide the lights you don't want showing. RIchard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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