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Kernow Models D6xx Update


Andy Y
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1 minute ago, TimP said:

well thanks all for your helpful advice  - seems like it has survived.

 

I obviously missed the lecture on coreless motors: but having re-read all of the blurb that came with the loco I can't see anything that warns the average idiot (me) that they shouldn't do this.

It's always good practice:

 

- to try the loco on DC before fitting the decoder.

- after fitting the decoder, to try the loco on a programming track, which limits the maximum current draw, before applying a full-strength DCC supply.

 

Equally, it's always bad practice to put an out-of-the-box DC loco straight on DCC - irrespective of the motor type.

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3 hours ago, TimP said:

well thanks all for your helpful advice  - seems like it has survived.

 

I obviously missed the lecture on coreless motors: but having re-read all of the blurb that came with the loco I can't see anything that warns the average idiot (me) that they shouldn't do this.

But even I know you dont put a DC loco on a DCC layout.

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24 hours later,  this loco seems to have near star qualities, almost on a par with the SLW 24s I have. Impressively, the couplings mate first time with the rake of coaches it was attached to. I like the way the coupling is pivoted. A well thought out model with good dcc combination of motor and decoder. So far so good.

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5 hours ago, TimP said:

well thanks all for your helpful advice  - seems like it has survived.

 

I obviously missed the lecture on coreless motors: but having re-read all of the blurb that came with the loco I can't see anything that warns the average idiot (me) that they shouldn't do this.

 

You can fit a DCC to DC converter which removes the second 'C' and protects non-chipped loco's running on DCC layouts. ;)

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4 hours ago, 7013 said:

Also, I always run my locos in minimum of 30 mins each way on DC light engine to bed everything in.

 

Has anyone else read the instructions - only a 6 month warranty.  Seems a little low compared to the usual year, or in occasional cases two!

 

At nearly £180 they should be good for much longer than 6 months.....

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I suspect they will be good for much much longer, and given Kernows excellent track record in customer care if anything did go wrong after six months they would give good service.

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IIRC statutory rights extend out to however long would be considered reasonable for something to last, with a minimum of something like 2 years(?).

 

The following show the statutory position as at 1st October, 2015 (from Citizens Advice):

 

For goods ordered at home: https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/Global/Public/Campaigns/cra/ConsumerRightsSummary-GoodsOL.pdf

For goods bought in a shop: https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/Global/Public/Campaigns/cra/ConsumerRightsSummary-GoodsF2F.pdf

Edited by Ian J.
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18 hours ago, 7013 said:

Also, I always run my locos in minimum of 30 mins each way on DC light engine to bed everything in.

As recommended in Kernow's instructions.

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Ark Royal now sold out!

 

I am both pleased and sad at this! Pleased obviously for Kernow that this whole enterprise has, (hopefully), been a commercial success; a little sad because I had hoped I might raise funds from Ebay sales for a second loco. to renumber/name. D604 is still available but the vertical grills push it later than I would like, hopefully all variants sell well and CT will consider a re-run of some??

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

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Have just ran my D603 in on DC (30 mins each direction) ran faultlessly. Inserted decoder, again runs like a dream, ran it with my normal five coach load, again no problems. Will probably sound chip it in the future, but for now enjoying a superb loco.

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My D602 arrived today. It is just on the rolling road at present, running in. After that, I have a Dapol Imperium decoder I could fit, or a Zimo MX 638D, which can easily be switched to MX638C if required (I'm not sure which version suits the Warship yet). The Dapol class 22 I did a few days ago required the MX638C to operate all of its lights correctly.

I do rather like the blue small yellow panel version too, but unfortunately, that one is also D602, and I really don;t want to rename and renumber the green one. Lovely as these models are, I think I'll stop at just the one for now. Yes, Kernow have done a great job with these models. I'll post a picture later, as long as no one objects (there are plenty on this thread already! :D ).
 

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OK, decoder now fitted! I opted for the Zimo MX638D, which is a fully functioned budget decoder. I discovered that it did, indeed, need to be converted to an MX638C, by the simple expedient of programming CV8 to a value of 3. All lights now work under independent control.

F0 has the reversible marker lights - single white for forward end and single red for the trailing end - pictures 1 and 2 below (the red barely shows in the photo, but it is quite bright ... that's another job to do: dim all of the lights).

47942363318_60628863b4_b.jpg
P_20190527_214353_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

47942380586_0cf0d149a5_b.jpg
P_20190527_214423_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr


F1 operates the forward cab and F2 operates the rear cab (forward and rear simply refer to the closer and further ends in the photos, of course).

 

47942362233_4239f378c1_b.jpg
P_20190527_214408_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

 

47942343277_0caaeccf93_b.jpg
P_20190527_214501_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

 

 

F3 and F4 operate the headcodes at each end (only the forward end shown here, together with the marker light on F0).

 

47942360583_5afb95f647_b.jpg
P_20190527_214436_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

Edited by SRman
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I fitted a Zimo MX638D, directional lights work fine, however cab lights only work in one cab. Question? If I convert my decoder to an MX638C will that solve the only one cab light working? I am not going to lose any sleep if it does not because I rarely if ever switch cab lights on.

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On 09/05/2019 at 22:21, St Enodoc said:

Perhaps I missed it, but does anyone know the maximum permissible motor current? That seems to me to be what the polyswitch is there to limit, irrespective of whether we're suing DC, DCC sound or DCC no sound (another question: does the polyswitch respond differently to DC and DCC current?).

We have been running ours round our Demo Layout at shown now for 8 weeks with no problems, we have two now, but the second one is slightly jerky on moving off for some reason, both are fitted with ESU Version 5 Sound decoders ansd have the DCKits/WT sounds fitted with the followung functions:

Function Key Layout for ESU/LOKSOUND V5 Sound Decoders.

F0 Lights On / Off  

F1 Sound On/Off.  

F2 Playable High Note Horn.

F3 Playable Low Note Horn.

F4 Buffer Clash(when moving slow) and coupling hook sounds.

F5 Air Brake (Active Braking Enabled).

F6 Emergence Brake Application.  

F7 Compressor.  

F8 Drive Hold (DriveLock)

F9 Speed Dependant Automatic Flange/Wheel Squeal.

F10 Despatch Whistle.

F11 Unfitted Wagon Buffer Clashing.

F12 Radiator Fan. 

F13 Sanders.  

F14 Engine Pre Start Procedure.

F15 Uncoupling Mode.

F16 Heavy Load.

F17 Shunting Mode.

F18 Track Detonators (Press again for different sounds).

F19 Aux 1. (cab lights)

F20 Aux 2. 

F21 AWS Bell.

F22 AWS Horn.

F23 Carriage Door Slams (Press again for different sounds).

Overall they are an excellent model and compliment the Dapol Class 22 & the New Bachmann Class 43.  Whell done Kernow.

 

charlie@dckits.co.uk.

 

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5 hours ago, 7013 said:

I fitted a Zimo MX638D, directional lights work fine, however cab lights only work in one cab. Question? If I convert my decoder to an MX638C will that solve the only one cab light working? I am not going to lose any sleep if it does not because I rarely if ever switch cab lights on.



Converting to MX638C should fix the lighting. If it doesn't, you can restore the decoder to MX638D by assigning a value of 4 to CV8. 

For anyone doing this to MX634 or MX638 decoders, note that putting these values into CV8 doesn't actually change the value of CV8 itself, which is the manufacturer's code. there is some magical trickery involved where it recognises what the values are doing.

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On 26/05/2019 at 13:45, TimP said:

well thanks all for your helpful advice  - seems like it has survived.

 

I obviously missed the lecture on coreless motors: but having re-read all of the blurb that came with the loco I can't see anything that warns the average idiot (me) that they shouldn't do this.

Ironically the one part that has been giving a few people greif has probably actually saved you. 

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On 28/05/2019 at 09:39, Dvt Dweller said:

Ironically the one part that has been giving a few people greif has probably actually saved you. 

Yes I have read through the thread on the fuse thing - hmmm seems like a bit of a gotcha, but as you say may well have been what has saved me - I think I'll wait for Kernow to say something before splashing out on a YouChoos / Zimo decoder.

 

In the meantime anyone fitting Kadees? I am not mad keen on the Dapol couplings as they have horrible droop - I am not sure even a shim will do.

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16 minutes ago, KJC said:

Has anyone fitted crew into their warship? Any advice would be appreciated.

Two posts on my own thread that include links back to earlier posts on here:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94350-mid-cornwall-lines-1950s-western-region-in-00/&do=findComment&comment=3535695

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94350-mid-cornwall-lines-1950s-western-region-in-00/&do=findComment&comment=3536704

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Many thanks St Enodoc. A search of the site strangely didn’t reveal any info and I didn't fancy removing the two small screws behind the buffer beam without some confirmation. Off to have another attempt now! The body is a tight fit on the chassis isn’t it.

 

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8 hours ago, KJC said:

Many thanks St Enodoc. A search of the site strangely didn’t reveal any info and I didn't fancy removing the two small screws behind the buffer beam without some confirmation. Off to have another attempt now! The body is a tight fit on the chassis isn’t it.

 

The body isn't too bad except for getting the corners of the chassis to tuck into the body when reassembling the loco. Otherwise the only tricky bit is breaking the seals on the lamp housings to free the cab interior mouldings.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi has anyone changed the CV settings for the Dapol Imperium Decoder? My 3 loco's run fine but seem a bit "abrupt" on slow down, just wondered if anyone can suggest any changes that they have made?

 

Thanks

 

Trev

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1 hour ago, Trev1073 said:

Hi has anyone changed the CV settings for the Dapol Imperium Decoder? My 3 loco's run fine but seem a bit "abrupt" on slow down, just wondered if anyone can suggest any changes that they have made?

 

Thanks

 

Trev

Can't help with the settings I'm just plain DC, but that is one of the disadvantages of coreless motors and needs careful throttle control. Adding more inertia control I expect would be the DCC answer.

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