cnw1995 Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 I've gotten the same inspiration in the top right-hand corner of Illinois. I've begun redoing my formerly 'Thomas the Tank Engine' o gauge layout into one inspired by Ivor. Would you mind some images? Here is the signal box, semaphore, water tank and beginnings of Ivor's shed I'm going to convert Lionel's Percy into Ivor. Here he is at Dai's station which is a Marx Girard station and Lionel passenger platform with a siding. In the background is Smoke Hill, with circling dragons and in the corner, Grumbly Town... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 Nice work, I wish I had that kind of space to play with! The shed and water tower is an area I'd like to explore modelling at some point, as it wouldn't look out of place on a regular model anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnw1995 Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Thank you. I am fortunate to have 29 ft by 11 ft. on this raised crawlspace. I envy the shows and kits you can access though when I thumb through the back of BRM. I've been looking for the old Locolines Ivor for a while, but kitbashing Percy will be fun. Of course this is much more primitive. I've been inspired by the Ivor the Engine application for the iPad, especially the map and timetable it includes, and the films themselves I could find on YouTube. There are some nice sound files I'm using here: http://www.smallfilms.co.uk/ivor/ and of course, the map is also here: http://www.smallfilm...uk/ivor/map.htm - It inspired my scene progression: Ivor's shed, water tank, signal and signal box, then Dai's station, then Pugh's Pit, Mrs. Porty's manse, Dimwiddie's gold mine, a long tunnel, Smoke Hill with the moving, circling dragons (i'm adding a flickering light), Grumbly Town, then a single engine shed and siding, Pugh's Farm and back to the junction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 Been building the JLTRT NE van kit but I have an issue. The axle boxes are not at their full depth and not deep enough to fit the bearing. Will the whitemetal take the strain of a drill, or am I better trying to cut down the bearing to compensate? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Whilst I'm not specifically familiar with the JLTRT kit, I think it's fairly normal to have to ease the bearing holes in axle box castings. It's certainly been the case with the the Connoisseur wagon kits I've built. It's been no problem to drill them out a touch with a suitable bit in a pin-chuck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I agree, just take it gently but drilling them out is the 'normal' procedure. David aka DLOS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 After putting some work back into Greslington, I'm going to return back to the O gauge projects, as I really enjoy building them! I often wonder if I'm trying to do too many things at once! Next thing is to sort those axleboxes and re-bore the buffers, I'm thinking of just having the buffers fixed rather than sprung, is there any problems like to arise from that in future? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 "I'm thinking of just having the buffers fixed rather than sprung, is there any problems like to arise from that in future?" Probably not. The only likely problem is traversing sharpish curves with short coupling links where compressing the buffers would prevent a build up of tension in the coupling that might drag a wagon off the road; that said, if the buffers are sufficiently lightly sprung to allow this, then they will probably compress unrealistically whilst propelling. However, there is something very satisfying in nicely sprung buffers and the relative smoothness with which stock comes together. In has been 'normal' to spring buffers in 0 gauge for decades now and rigid buffers rather smack of vintage tinplate, I would suggest. Give it a go, it's not difficult and I think you will be suitable satisfied. David aka DLOS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnw1995 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Can anyone hazard a guess as to the 'time period' of M&L RTC? I thought it corresponded with the time the shows first aired (1958) but the Ivor iPad app contains a detailed timetable that dates from May 1925... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 The local fire brigade's appliance looks late 1930s to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Guys if you want to ask there is an email address on this site: http://www.smallfilms.co.uk/ivor/ I'm sure they will pass your question on to Peter Firmin if they cannot answer it. They are very helpful. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 You know, a project I thought initially may not get off the starting blocks is really starting to pick up. I know its taking a while and I greatly appreciate the patience of you guys who are following it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Surely IvOr the Engine? XF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnw1995 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Great idea, Pete. Going right to the source. I'll do so. I hadn't much luck with the developers of the Ivor app. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 A wagon I need to tackle is the hopper wagon for Bluebell, along with Bluebell herself. I found that I can get a Donkey figurine in 1:43 from S&D, but its a saddled example. Bluebell doesn't have a saddle in any reference images and I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find one? I also need a suitable hopper, but that should be easy enough. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 There are donkey sanctuarys which would probably sell little donkeys. (google donkey models) http://www.utterlyhorses.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=donkey&x=30&y=10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnw1995 Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Could you adapt one of these? http://www.sceneryexpress.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MP6174 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Is there a leek in Ivor's boiler? XF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Surely IvOr the Engine? XF Strictly speaking should be Ifor the Engine as there's no "v" in the Welsh alphabet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 Well, I'm on the edge of the diving board ready to jump in for a little paddle. While waiting for production on the Ivor kit to come to pass I've opted to have a go at the 0-4-0 starter kit in the meantime and have a dry run so to speak. Order sent to slaters for the wheels and the plunger pickups I opted for. Going by the photo's and drawing, plunger looked like a better, more discreet option. Very odd send off an order form by post, I can understand why some prefer the old ways though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Just telephoned my order, I must say the chap running Connessieur was an absolute pleasure to speak to! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Trying to keep on the ball and keep this thread going. Added a 20T brake van kit to the stable, this will be a weekend job. More importantly I'm expecting the 'Nellie' kit in the coming days and I'm keen to get onto that as soon as possible. Been studying the online instructions and 'bricking it' in anticipation. Hopefully jumping in the deep end like this will reap greater rewards. Theres a lot of terms I've got to learn, along with discovering that its not one solder to rule them all, and in the darkness bind them! I'll try to keep a regular 'production' diary on this very thread, with some bits on the youtube channel to show models operating (fingers crossed). Stay tuned! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Well, it all arrived! I was reasonably suprised with the weight, but I've been studying the instructions and it looks like it will be a challenge, but not an impossibility. At least if I get something wrong I can de-solder and try again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Finally got around to wheeling the box van. Got all the parts I need from Connessieur alonng with the necessary tools, although does anyone know where on the high street I can get flux? I fully intend on have at least a rolling, possibly motorised chassis by next week. Thinking ahead, I may as well fit a DCC chip while I'm at it, can anyone recommend a chip? This is a bit of a pilot project until the Ivor etches are ready, but I'd like to try sound etc on this as a test bed. Finally, will my SPROGII be enough? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Unfortunately there is no high street source (that I know of) for the sort of non-corrosive/low corrosion fluxes that are generally used in modelling these days. An electronics specialist may be able to help but also may not. Otherwise you're stuck with the specialist model trade. If you're prepard to do some extra work, you could use either a zinc chloride flux, such as plumbers use, Baker's Fluid being the most well known, or phosphoric acid, which can be obtained from the likes of Halfords as rust converter. Jenolite is, IIRC, the main brand name in the UK. If you use either of these, though, you must decontaminate the model and your tools after every modelling session (I scrub everything in hot water/detergent and then leave to soak in a bath of bicarbonate of soda or sodium carbonate (washing soda if I've been using acidic fluxes) as they are highly aggressive and corrosive. Skin contact is also not recommended and you really don't want any in your eyes. Overall, given the additional faff and the potential for corroding things you don't want corroded I'd say you're better off finding a mail order or local specialist who can sell you some of the proper stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.