Black Sheep Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 If you want to find out about availability of different types of solder the 2mm guys could be worth talking to as its a tighter space they work in so might be some tricks to be known. What I used to love about Ivor is the fact that the scenery was always the same. They used to make sure that the line side features used to be seen in the same order, for example to get to the gasworks you'd go through the station, past the town, over the viaduct and then the gasworks, always the same order. Ivor was intended to be realistic except for one thing only, that Ivor wanted to sing in the choir and had a pet dragon. Everything else was as it could be found in real life. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Finally got around to wheeling the box van. Got all the parts I need from Connessieur alonng with the necessary tools, although does anyone know where on the high street I can get flux? I fully intend on have at least a rolling, possibly motorised chassis by next week. Thinking ahead, I may as well fit a DCC chip while I'm at it, can anyone recommend a chip? This is a bit of a pilot project until the Ivor etches are ready, but I'd like to try sound etc on this as a test bed. Finally, will my SPROGII be enough? I strongly recommend waiting for a prompt delivery of this:http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52 It's a water-based safety flux. 'Suitable for use with whitemetal, brass & nickel silver. Does not have the same aggressive corrosive properties as acid based fluxes usually used by modellers. Brass stays cleaner during construction. Does not cause nickel silver to turn green overnight. Does not cause steel wheels to rust overnight. Kinder to soldering iron tips.' They despatch very quickly too. Usual disclaimer Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 I strongly recommend waiting for a prompt delivery of this:http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52 It's a water-based safety flux. 'Suitable for use with whitemetal, brass & nickel silver. Does not have the same aggressive corrosive properties as acid based fluxes usually used by modellers. Brass stays cleaner during construction. Does not cause nickel silver to turn green overnight. Does not cause steel wheels to rust overnight. Kinder to soldering iron tips.' That has to be one of the most misleading bits of advertising copy I've ever read Water-based? What does that mean? It's a dilute solution just as pretty much all other liquid fluxes in common use. "Does not have the same aggressive corrosive properties as acid based fluxes usually used by modellers? Try reading the "product safety data sheet", it contains citric acid and other compounds and is listed as corosive. What I think they are doing is making a comparison with the more nasty and unsuitable plumbers' fluxes like Powerflow and other agressive substances like Bakers fluid, neither of which are ideal for modelling. I, and many others, use phosphoric acid based fluxes, typically around 10% solution in water and this is no more corrosive, doesn't turn anything green or make steel rust. Take a look at some of the many topics on soldering here and you'll find that, whilst there are some that insist on using plumbing fluxes, many more recommend phosphoric acid fluxes (e.g. Carr's yellow). Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 I don't intend getting drawn into a technical discussion on the relative merits of various fluxes. The OP asked for a recommendation and I provided a link to a product that I am prepared to endorse. End of. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Isn't "citric acid" basically lemon juice? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 I don't intend getting drawn into a technical discussion on the relative merits of various fluxes. The OP asked for a recommendation and I provided a link to a product that I am prepared to endorse. End of. Sorry, Dave, but if you post on an open forum you must expect a response. Had you read my post rather than immediately diving in with a defensive response, you would have noticed that I was not commenting on the relative merit of this product, just the misleading way in which it is promoted as somehow superior to "acid based fluxes usually used by modellers" when it is in fact an acid-based flux. I've no doubt that a combination of zinc salts and citric acid is an effective flux. Indeed, I use citric acid fluxes, in paste rather than dilute form, for silver soldering in the 400-600 degree range. Nick ps. Yes, lemon (and lime) juice contain citric acid, as do all citrous fruits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Fortunately the solder I had in stock seems to have done the trick nicely. I've got a rolling chassis now, but the wheels are a bit stiff, and not quite level. I'm going to get a fully functional chassis before I make headway onto the body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Whilst it's not really recommended as a fix for poor alignment, the rocking axle compensation described in Jim's instructions lessens the requirement for getting the chassis absolutely spot on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 I think one of the joints was a bit dry and has come away. Should be an easy fix. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 I meant to post this the other night. Its a quick video highlighting some of my aims and whats going on. http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Some proof I actually got off my backside and did some modelling the other day. Upon inspection I've got two dry joints and stiff wheels, which may be related. It doesn't seem to sit quite flat neither. Need to re-do those joints and see how it is. Oh, the siderods are only fitted temporarily. crop by Coldgunner, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnw1995 Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Looks great! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 I'm not particularly satisfied with the running plate I've put together. It didn't help that the side skirts got bent while cutting them from the etch I think I've made a bit of a mess quite frankly, nothing seems to be going together right at the moment. Am I better sticking with what I've got and using some filler, or ripping apart and starting again? Its a bit disheartening... DSCF4298 by Coldgunner, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 GAH! I've managed to lose 2 washers for the wheels! Does anyone know of a suppliers for such small bits? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 EXPO? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Call Jim at Connoisseur and I'm pretty sure he'll send you some either for free or very little cost. What sort of iron and flux are you using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 This stuff http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=DCDCS-S145 Seems to melt quite well. Though I'm going to strip the frames and re-do them completely as they are bad. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Frames are stripped back to their component parts. I've got as far as mounting the motor on the axle now. Need to figure out how it is correctly kept in place though as I haven't got any pictures showing how the mounting should be. I'll do a power test on the single axles then. The additional weight seems to have helped smoothen out the wheels and they sit "almost" flat. I need to re-think my approach to building the body though, as I'm treating the chassis and body as seperate projects at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Thanks for the advice Paul, I discovered the culprit in that it was a dry joint that had come away. I sometimes wonder if I've bit off more than I can chew, but I take heed of the old adage in that the best way to learn is to get stuck in. The chassis itself is in pretty good condition. I loosened the bushing though as I felt that it seemed more forgiving, which is a good thing. Wheels are about the same with the rods on or off. I'm going to re-evaluate the chassis later one as I feel I need a break from the 'engineering' side and should work on the cosmetic side a little bit (painting some detail parts like the back head and figures). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 ps. Yes, lemon (and lime) juice contain citric acid, as do all citrous fruits.Yes, but they also contain sugar and other organics - for heaven sake DO NOT USE for soldering. The sugar becomes a sticky carbonised mess and is almost impossible to clean off soldering iron and the job. Yes, I have been stupid enough to try it! Purchase phosphoric acid from your local chemist (or citric acid) both are available and depending on how friendly your chemist is they may charge a premium. Bertidog did a very good topic somewhere in the bowels of RMWeb that went into great detail on alternative fluxes. It is not that the (plumber's) powerfluxes don't work, it is just that they are too aggressive and will eat away at your soldering bit and become a real pain to keep the build clean. They continue to chemically react with the brass as they are very difficult to remove from the nooks and crannies. The easiest option is one of the Carr's fluxes (I use red for just about everything) but the others will do - a simple 5-15% dilution of phosphoric acid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Thinking ahead towards the livery. I'm going to do it in a freelance livery of some description. Something rather simple, but realistic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 I was a bit rusty on the soldering front and the first couple of joins I did were lacklustre and probably not at full temperature, hence the break. I've grown more confident with it and actually got the running plate mounted now. I did a power test last night and it ran a lot better than I expected. I've picked up a bit of confidence in myself now and this is what the point of doing this kit before I starter 'Ivor' is for. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Thinking ahead towards the livery. I'm going to do it in a freelance livery of some description. Something rather simple, but realistic. I did at one point know what typeface had been used as I replicated it myself, unfortunately I'm not sure if my old job wiped my computer when I was let go, I'll try and contact my ex-colleague and see if he can e-mail the logo I created from it if it would be of use? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 I'm not quite sure yet whether to make it look a bit rough, but if you've got an example to look at it make give me ideas at least, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Well, like buses you wait so long, then it all comes along at once... DSCF4308 edit by Coldgunner, on Flickr Need to wipe some of the excess solder away, but its all coming together reasonably well. A little bit of filing here ane there, and I'm yet to figure out how to install the plunger pickups, but the chassis has been powered and moved with the single driving axle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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