llamafish Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Hi all, I need to gain access to some of my closed wagons, such as vans and brake vans, mainly Bachmann models. I need to gain access to the inside of them so I can add something to act as ballast so that they don't derail as frequently as they do, due to them being too light. I've tried various methods to shift the lugs on the bottom (attempting Bachmann 20T NE Brake Van - Oxide livery, but as of yet, I haven't managed to remove the body. Can anyone suggest anything I can do to get the body off, without breaking it? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted December 26, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 26, 2009 I used to cut them off (flush with the chassis floor), ballast the wagon and then glue the body back on - on some previous (not seen recent ones) models the lugs were actually visible Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Thanks, but I want to try and avoid that if possible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 I've tried various methods to shift the lugs on the bottom (attempting Bachmann 20T NE Brake Van - Oxide livery, but as of yet, I haven't managed to remove the body. Can anyone suggest anything I can do to get the body off, without breaking it? Methods of attachment vary greatly dependent on manufacturer and age of model but if that's the Blue Riband model (with the end platforms, not the old 'shorty'), I'd pick something else because it'll also be attached by the handrails Most of Bachy's current 10ft wheelbase stock is pretty simple once you've unscrewed the coupling mounting pillars Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Yes, unfortunately it is attached by the handrails as well, I'm trying different wheels from different manufacturers, to see if a smoother ride will make any difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 is there no room to fit a sheet of lead between the solebars ? The lower the weight the better/more effect it will have on stability. Are you sure they are derailing because of poor weight and not due to poor B2B ? The other alternative is to drill a hole up from underneath and pour in some liquid lead and then plug the hole so it doesn't pour out again - not a great solution as the liquid lead will slosh around inside. But possibly still better than cutting the solebars off with potential visible damage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Excuse my ignorance, but what is B2B? In my previous experience, adding weight to the wagons seems to stop them derailing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Back to back the measurement between the backs of the wheels on an axle which is often incorrect on axles and if it is really bad will cause wagons - especially bogie stock - and lightweights to fail to negotiate point crossings - or if really bad - fail to negotiate curves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Back to back the measurement between the backs of the wheels on an axle which is often incorrect on axles and if it is really bad will cause wagons - especially bogie stock - and lightweights to fail to negotiate point crossings - or if really bad - fail to negotiate curves. I see, thanks for clarifying. Do you reckon if I can find some suitable wheels in my spares box or from other wagons, and attach them (if from other wagons that run well) to the derailing wagon it wil stop it, and I won't need to add ballast weights? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Or do the above and whilst poring in some liquid lead, pour in some dilute PVA glue.....should stop the lead shot from sloshing about inside the van B) PVA + liquid lead doesn't seem to be a good combination, judging by the letters in various recent issues of the MRJ. Something to do with the acetic acid in the PVA attacking the lead and causing it to expand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 I see, thanks for clarifying. Do you reckon if I can find some suitable wheels in my spares box or from other wagons, and attach them (if from other wagons that run well) to the derailing wagon it wil stop it, and I won't need to add ballast weights? Actually Kenton is on the right track here, RTR wagons on non-finescale track should reaally behave OK - weight is a factor in good running, true, but more so with light kitbuilt stock Swapping wheels is a peculiarly complicated way round the problem - just get a back-to-back gauge (or Vernier caliper) and adjust the ones you have Cue next question... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Swapping wheels is a peculiarly complicated way round the problem - just get a back-to-back gauge (or Vernier caliper) and adjust the ones you have Ironically, I disagree with you there, I find it much easier to swap wheels around, then buying a gauge or adjusting the originals! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 A few thoughts about wagon disassembly; find the seam between parts first and having found it make sure that all detail bits, brake rigging and such have been separated so that your brake doesn't break . A thin bladed screwdriver or palette knife can help to pry bits apart, sharp craft knives or scalpel blades can be a bit iffy here :icon_e_sad: above all take your time. As far as wheels go, assuming you are in 00 gauge an NMRA gauge can be very useful for checking wheels, not sure of availability in the UK though. HTH David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Ironically, I disagree with you there, I find it much easier to swap wheels around, then buying a gauge or adjusting the originals! Fair enuff Dan, I can see how this is going to go and I wont rush to advise you again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Ironically, I disagree with you there, I find it much easier to swap wheels around, then buying a gauge or adjusting the originals! Me thinks you will soon run out of wheel sets to substitute or end up with a large pile of rejects. Quite good digital verniers are available for relatively little investment and they are a very handy tool to have for all sorts of model making measurements. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 I have plenty of wheels for the moment! Hopefully these wagons will run fine after some swapping around, if not, I'll have to try and ballast it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 Fair enuff Dan, I can see how this is going to go and I wont rush to advise you again I note the addition of "I can see how this is going to go", makes your reply seem better! Incidentally I did a quick and easy wheel swap between 5 wagons (2 Hornby and 3 Bachmann) with: Bachmann Brake running on Hornby spoked wheels Bachmann toad I think is now running on same wheels as the Hornby open Bachmann open running on Hornby spoked wheels Hornby Open donated its wheels, running on Bachmann spoked wheels recovered from the above Hornby van awaiting replacement wheelsets that I can slot in! (I feel another wheel swap coming on soon!) This means from an original 3 wagons that derailed, I now have 0 that derailed, all were tested in various rakes behind a Hornby 8F on Hornby R607 and 603 track, at full speed, both backwards and forwards, and none of the vehicles came off the track once, so fingers crossed I've solved the problem, and have ordered a pack of Hornby spoked wheels so I can hopefully solve more "troublesome trucks"! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
llamafish Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 It may well be something to look into in the future. If I notice something is out of the B2B measurement, how would I go about adjusting the wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Solly Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Or do the above and whilst poring in some liquid lead, pour in some dilute PVA glue.....should stop the lead shot from sloshing about inside the van I tried that with new the Cattlle wagons. Lead shot went in OK, diluted PVA leaked out & gummed things up - couplers & axles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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