Stockrington - Mojo ignited. Thanks, Heljan!

[jukebox]

Nibbles rather than large bites these last few weeks...

 

Now that I've determined the "edge of the world" I was able to get on with the grassing, and adding landscape details:

 

 

The big hill is now getting closer to completion - some low shrubbery and bald patches to break up the monotony of the slope...

 

 

A fence along the top, and another hedgerow in progress.

 

The "canvas" for the shots looking back from the bridge is now alive.  Trainspotters view:

 

 

..and a slightly more elevated perspective:

 

 

Some PVA and spot applications of static grass will disguise those glue piles anchoring the fence.

 

I've working on the riverbanks now - the coloured flock/sawdust is going down:

 

 

Static grass over the top will match it to the materials on the other side of the railway.  I still have some long dry grass and some textures to add, to break up the monotony of the embankments...

 

The other thing I'm liking is the view from the hilltop. The fence forms a nice frame:

 

 

That "trains in the landscape" feel is coming alive - although the creation of the right hand side of the cutting in the middle ground will block almost all the view all the way to the far end...

 

 

A little lower, and the railway becomes harder to spot (I took this in a hurry - when I stage a shot from here, I can frame things a bit better)

 

 

Back behind me, I have been tidying the big river crossing up - flocking the grass, and blacking out the areas between the rocks with paint, prior to adding lichen:

 

 

Once I have the lichen glued on, I'll start to think about how to treat the grass... and maybe even the river banks.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

 

[jukebox]

I didn't like the hedgerow that I was making for the hilltop - despite spending a lot of time, and materials, trying to get it "right", it didn't quite work.  It felt like it was overpowering the hill.

 

I knew I needed to make some post and wire fencing down near the river, so thought the distant hill top might be a good place to build a test section, as it's a bit further away from crucial eyes i.e. mine.

 

So I looked at a match in a matchbox - it seemed undernourished - and instead I went down to Officeworks, and bought a bag of craft matches.

 

Taking a batch of these, I squared them up in file against a ruler, then marked three lines across the platoon, so that I'd have all holes equidistant apart.

 

I then used a 0.3mm bit in my Dremel, and set up a manual drill press - my wrist, wedged on some paperbacks.  I quickly had a pile of 50 or so drilled matchsticks.  It's not a task I'd want to do with a thumb-drill...

 

These were dipped in a wash of slate grey paint and left to dry.

 

 

In the meantime, I took an 800mm long length of spare DCC bus wire and stripped it off.  Three strands were unwound and I methodically threaded the posts on, trying not to cross the wires.  I still did.  Twice.

 

This is an offcut from the length I installed on the layout:

 

 

And here's how the hill area looks now.

 

 

A close up the first test fence:

 

 

To install the fence I drilled holes in the plaster, and then filled them with Liquid Nails.  I will come back and smear PVA on those piles and static grass them to disguise them.

 

I painted the shiny wire brown to age it - but that has made the strands almost disappear!  Lifelike, but almost frustrating as my efforts are somewhat invisible.  I'm sure in the right light / from the right angle, they will be okay.  I couldn't leave them polished steel, anyway.

 

Happy with the result, I set to on one of the river fences:

 

 

I really like the way that fenceline curves around to the bridge.  There's some railway fencing missing that will complete the scene, and it still needs a 10mm pour of casting resin to fill the river.

 

 

On the weekend, I dyed some lichen, and static grassed the right hand side on top of the cliff.

 

 

This is about 80% complete now - I won't add the fill of lichen below the bottom row of rock until I've grassed the valley floor - those colours there now are just flock, as a base and guide to what I will do to bring it to life.

 

I'm not 100% happy with this side of the valley - it feels very fictional.  But it's the probably the most compromised of all my terra-forming - the way the corner joins two scenes, and the valley floor needs to drop away, but also hide the storage tracks, always meant this wasn't going to be realistic. I can live with it, but I suspect it I'll tend not to train the camera on it too much once I am done.  The far bank has gentler slopes, and less rock, and even without ground cover yet, feels more natural.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited October 30, 2018 by jukebox

[jcredfer]

Hi Scott,

Like the progress.  The penultimate picture above shows the wires clearly.  Most fence wire seems to be a dull alumium colour, or just plain rusty.  I rather assumed you didn't want the grey colour, or you would have painted it  ... grey.  I wonder if touching some paler redder-rust colour in patches might make it a little more visible for you.

 

The new work on the cliff is a transformation, just delightful.  :sungum:

 

Kind regards

 

Julian

[kandc_au]

 

This is about 80% complete now - I won't add the fill of lichen below the bottom row of rock until I've grassed the valley floor - those colours there now are just flock, as a base and guide to what I will do to bring it to life.

 

I'm not 100% happy with this side of the valley - it feels very fictional.  But it's the probably the most compromised of all my terra-forming - the way the corner joins two scenes, and the valley floor needs to drop away, but also hide the storage tracks, always meant this wasn't going to be realistic. I can live with it, but I suspect it I'll tend not to train the camera on it too much once I am done.  The far bank has gentler slopes, and less rock, and even without ground cover yet, feels more natural.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Scott,

Two things come to mind when I look at the last pic, that you say looks fictional.

!) The rocks look to grey to me, and I wonder whether if they were toned down possibly with a brown, whether it wouldn't help.

2) On the R/H side it almost looks like the rocks have been cutoff with 1 piece further down.

BUT: Overall I reckon the scenery is looking brilliant and natural!

 

khris

[jukebox]

Hi Scott,

Like the progress.  The penultimate picture above shows the wires clearly.  Most fence wire seems to be a dull alumium colour, or just plain rusty.  I rather assumed you didn't want the grey colour, or you would have painted it  ... grey.  I wonder if touching some paler redder-rust colour in patches might make it a little more visible for you.

 

The new work on the cliff is a transformation, just delightful.  :sungum:

 

Kind regards

 

Julian

 

Thanks Julian.  I was picturing a fairly ramshackle fence when I set about modelling it, and that meant aged grey posts and rusted wire.  Funnily enough, I've gone back and looked at reference photos now, and in may of them... you can't see the wires!   Mission accomplished.  (I *do* like that it's subtle, and a detail that you notice only on second glance)

 

The cliff is okay.  I'm my own harshest judge.  It'll be fine once I finish it - I'll post a before and after picture from when I just bedded in the rock castings to when I am done, and that will remind me it has come up okay.

 

 

Scott,

Two things come to mind when I look at the last pic, that you say looks fictional.

!) The rocks look to grey to me, and I wonder whether if they were toned down possibly with a brown, whether it wouldn't help.

2) On the R/H side it almost looks like the rocks have been cutoff with 1 piece further down.

BUT: Overall I reckon the scenery is looking brilliant and natural!

 

khris

 

Thanks for the kind words, Khris.  The colour of the rocks was one I pondered for quite awhile.  It's one of those subjects I'm wary about the difference between the grey weathered sandstones I am accustomed to seeing here in Australia, and the shades of rock that may or may not exist in North East England.  I did "pale them down" a lot from my initial effort, and while it took three goes, I did end up with a shade I was comfortable with.  In one of my earlier posts, you can see a sample rock casting I did "brown up" and it looked lovely - full of wonderfully real tones - but I couldn't remember what I did, so couldn't replicate it en mass.

 

That front-on view of the rock face is a little deceptive - the face is very vertical for 2/3 of the way, then it opens out into a 45 degree slope at the bottom - hence the intention to use grass cover.  It wasn't a terribly planned effort - I just hung the chicken wire over the wooden frame, and hung the plaster cloth over it however gravity wanted it to fall, and let it dry. Then my ethos was only to add rock castings where nature would not have let grass grow.  The result was some of those lovely slopes up top, that I was able to flock up and use to bring the fields above the tunnel part-way down the hill.   That's also why there's a single rock on the right - I ended up with a small vertical slope just there, that grass would not have grown on.

 

I'll be very generous with the lichen and coarse foam on the right hand side once I screw the facia on, and it should all become homogenous.  The West bank will be a lot less green - in fact only the flood plain at the bottom will be green on that side - as I work up the hill, I want the yellows and browns to dominate, suggesting the industrial side of the world...

 

Thanks both for your feedback - much appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[jukebox]

Change of pace, as I decided I wanted to spend some time on the big river valley.

 

First up, I flocked the west bank:

 

 

I started with a lush shade by the water, and worked my way up the slope, into yellower and darker tones:

 

 

I was trying to explain the shape of the contours on the East bank, so took this photo - it shows the way there is a very vertical section, which I've "rocked", and a toe that has a gentler slope, which will be "grassed".  Also it's one of those won't-be-seen-again views where you can see the structure of the viaduct reaching down onto the L-girder frames:

 

 

Looking at the river, and seeing the cost of casting resin, brought lumps to my throat.  So I'm filling in some of the depth with cardboard:

 

 

I've done this in a couple of layers to form submerged contours, and then will cover it with plaster cloth, to ensure I have a fluid-tight bathtub to pour the resin into:

 

 

I've made up some stone walling strips and will paint them up to represent a mossy riverside like this view of the Tyne:

 

 

***

 

Around the corner, I added some railway fencing, and then static grassed the base.  I will need to add another post-and-wire fence running off to the right to finish the scene:

 

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

[jukebox]

So I was doing some research, looking for mossy dock walls.

 

Dunston Staithes:

 

 

Tyneside:

 

 

and again:

 

 

and then I saw some marvellous low tide photos like this one:

 

 

and this one:

 

 

 

This becomes important, because I'm predicting a problem.  If my two river banks sides, and front and back, are not almost perfectly level, when I add a 20mm layer of river water using casting resin, the finished top of water will not be parallel to the moss marks or may pond deeper at one end than the other.

 

But if I were to model the river at low tide - including that gentle tidal mud sloping away - 1) I'd use a lot less resin, and 2) the resin would not come up to the moss mark, so any error would be less obvious. 

 

I shall be giving it some thought.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

[jcredfer]

Hi Scott,

The lower water idea is very sound logic and may be useful to others out there.  Just a thought, if you do go for the lower water level, it would be easier to add the moss mark after the water and that would be easier to adjust, as it won't encroach on the top of the water.

 

Kind regards

 

Julian

[jukebox]

It's a bit chicken and egg, Julian. 

 

If I choose the low tide water level, then I can apply the moss beforehand, as the edge of the resin won't be near enough to the walls to be able to be compared, and anything that isn't parallel wont be too obvious.

 

If I choose high tide, then the water will need to come to within 10mm of the moss - my walling is only 3 courses high - and so if it is grossly out of parallel it will look nonsensical....

 

Trying to moss-up approx. 6ft of riverbank walling in situ would be rather fraught - water or not.

 

My current thinking - there's a tidal joke in there for the observant amongst you - is that I'll moss the walls on my workbench, apply them to the banks, and then model the mud flats using plaster cloth, and see how effective they look. 

 

I can then add the first large batch of water to represent low tide.  If after it hardens, I find it looks twee, I will then commit to topping it up to high tide with a second pour of resin.  I could also use this 2nd pour to tweak the tone of the finished water, if I'm not happy with that. 

 

So hopefully starting by modelling at low tide will give me a heads-up how close I will be to level.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited November 7, 2018 by jukebox

[jon_1066]

A couple of thoughts (great progress by the way) if the river is like in your reference photos - muddy - why are you pouring it so thick in resin?  Surely you can make up the level with a thin pour on top.  That water in the photos is not exactly what you would call transparent.  A muddy brown colour would hide whatever depth you use. 

 

Second is will it match the back scene?  That looks pretty choppy and fast flowing in the back scene.  Are you going for waves and turbulent water or something more like the sluggish muddy estuary?

[runs as required]

I think the low tide idea is great - one of the shocks really about coming late to the north east -   just how did they launch ships into such a tiny stream at low tide? They didn't - they launched on high spring tide dates.

( I arrived at post just as Mrs T was selling off the really promising Wearside innovative building of modular ships in great indoor sheds and simply welding however many modules together as the orders came in.

There was the usual protest - which I and my uni colleagues played a part in - against the closure and sell off of the IP to Korea  but North Sea oil was the great windfall panacea of the 1970s.).

 

One idea I can send you photos of is how the skeletons of earlier ships (like keels on the Tyne) get exposed in the mud close to the shore at low tide .

 

2 (after edit)

  ...will it match the back scene?  That looks pretty choppy and fast flowing in the back scene.  Are you going for waves and turbulent water or something more like the sluggish muddy estuary?

It seems a bit of an old wives' fallacy that it's always windy & choppy at High water.

I've ridden my bike around the tidal reaches of the Tyne on stormy wet days at Spring Low tide when there is barely a trickle; the weather is just as s**t.

 

The project is looking really great now

dh

Edited November 7, 2018 by runs as required

[jcredfer]

 

It seems a bit of an old wives' fallacy that it's always windy & choppy at High water.

I've ridden my bike around the tidal reaches of the Tyne on stormy wet days at Spring Low tide when there is barely a trickle; the weather is just as s**t

 

The Trent through Staffs looked just the same, thick almost black with all sorts of undesirable stuff, making swimming an unwelcome prospect if nor downright dangerous.  Low water would be almost bereft of the effects of the wind, in anything less than a Yachtsman's Gale. {Force 6, to the few land-lubbers out there}  It is a wonder there were ever any waves at all, such was the viscosity, although the inrush of Sea Water at High Tide would have thinned the river stuff enough for a ripple or two then.

 

Kind regards

 

Julian

[jukebox]

A couple of thoughts (great progress by the way) if the river is like in your reference photos - muddy - why are you pouring it so thick in resin?  Surely you can make up the level with a thin pour on top.  That water in the photos is not exactly what you would call transparent.  A muddy brown colour would hide whatever depth you use. 

 

Second is will it match the back scene?  That looks pretty choppy and fast flowing in the back scene.  Are you going for waves and turbulent water or something more like the sluggish muddy estuary?

 

Hi Jon

 

The prototype rivers I have in mind - the Tyne and Wear - certainly wouldn't win any eco-awards - especially in the 1950's and 60's, so muddy/coaly/slimy is the order of the day. 

 

You are correct about minimising depth, which is why I started to infill with cardboard and will then skin with plaster cloth - I didn't want to fill a space approx. 600mm x 600mm x 40mm with resin!  But at the same time, I would like to develop a sense of depth - which really won't be seen in any photos I take of the layout, but would be visible to me as an observer when I look at the scene in the flesh.

 

The beauty of the tinted resin is that it does allow this - the thicker the pour, the more the visibility is reduced, just like the real thing.

 

Your comments about matching the backscene are appreciated.  Resin will set very glassy - unless I then treat it with further scenic product.  I'd not thought about how that relates to the backscene, but there's clouds and silver linings;  the silver lining is that a glassy finish will likely reflect a lot of the backscene from some angles - mainly square on - keeping the illusion of continuity.  The cloud: I'd not contemplated is how a low tide river in 3D would appear against a high tide back scene...

 

The backscene is impressionistic, and not supposed to be choppy, but rather suggest reflections on the water.  I've never been a fan of hyper-realistic painted backscenes unless they are photographs, as I prefer them to suggest an out of focus environment and not draw the eye's attention.  That's just a personal choice.

 

The potential glassiness of the water doesn't bother me - look at those photos above, of the King Edward VII Bridge at low tide - but the high/low tide mismatch might, and sort of swings me back to perhaps choosing high tide.

 

I should also confess I'm not wedded to resin just yet - I *will* use it in my small river, and the ease/difficulty that experience delivers will guide me.  I have been looking at some other methods for recreating water here on RMWeb, that have a lot more texture to the end product, so there's still some mileage to be covered yet...

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[jukebox]

I think the low tide idea is great - one of the shocks really about coming late to the north east -   just how did they launch ships into such a tiny stream at low tide? They didn't - they launched on high spring tide dates.

( I arrived at post just as Mrs T was selling off the really promising Wearside innovative building of modular ships in great indoor sheds and simply welding however many modules together as the orders came in.

There was the usual protest - which I and my uni colleagues played a part in - against the closure and sell off of the IP to Korea  but North Sea oil was the great windfall panacea of the 1970s.).

 

One idea I can send you photos of is how the skeletons of earlier ships (like keels on the Tyne) get exposed in the mud close to the shore at low tide .

 

2 (after edit)

It seems a bit of an old wives' fallacy that it's always windy & choppy at High water.

I've ridden my bike around the tidal reaches of the Tyne on stormy wet days at Spring Low tide when there is barely a trickle; the weather is just as s**t.

 

The project is looking really great now

dh

 

I noticed these "skeletons" when doing my internet search, dh!   It certainly would add a bit of interest to a rather plain vista.

 

I also like the idea of rivulets where the receding water has washed away sand.  An old car body, up turned shopping trolleys, car tyres....  all of the latter would certainly anchor the scene in the 1960's...

 

There's a great shot in a Steam Railway magazine supplement on the North East, showing a K1 in silhouette, crossing the Tyne, with oil slicks running in the water below.  I'd love to recreate that!

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

edit - I got home and pulled that booklet from my shelves; it's actually a shot by Malcolm Dunnett of an A1 on the High Level Bridge.  The K1 shot I was thinking of, is also the HLB, but the water is rather pristine, as it's from the preservation era.

Edited November 8, 2018 by jukebox

[Two_sugars]

There's a great shot in a Steam Railway magazine supplement on the North East, showing a K1 in silhouette, crossing the Tyne, with oil slicks running in the water below.  I'd love to recreate that!

 

And the oil scum so thick that   coal dust and soot . . . always coal dust and soot, ,  coated the surface  in anything but the roughest of weather.

 

 

John

Edited November 8, 2018 by Two_sugars

[Toftwood]

 

There's a great shot in a Steam Railway magazine supplement on the North East, showing a K1 in silhouette, crossing the Tyne, with oil slicks running in the water below.  I'd love to recreate that!

 

And the oil scum so thick that   coal dust and soot . . . always coal dust and soot, ,  coated the surface  in anything but the roughest of weather.

 

 

John

 

 

If anyone went into the Tyne in that era.....and survived, were straight to the RVI for a stomach pump at minimum!

[jukebox]

I did post this on another thread, but as actual layout work has been a bit slow, this is a bonus mid-week posting.

 

Until last week, I didn't have any A3's on Stockrington - only some LNER liveried A1's.  Hatton's had a mega sale, an the price was very right, so...

 

 

 

A bit of ski jump action on the footplate ahead of the cylinders, so I'll need to have a fettle and see if I can get that down a bit.

 

An imposing beast.

 

Excellent service from Hattons - under 10 days signed for airmail delivery from Liverpool to Australia.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

update - following some advice from Steve/sjp23480 of this parish, I removed the clear plastic spacer washer from beneath the screw holding the body to the front of the chassis:

 

 

I reckon that's a pretty darn good result!

Edited November 13, 2018 by jukebox

[manna]

G'Day Folks

 

Just ordered a 'Westernized' ROD, 53 pounds, can't turn that down, I'll refit it to LNER .

Love the scenery.

 

manna

[jukebox]

Bits and bobs of not terribly exciting stuff going on on the background, but  some work today I thought worth posting:

 

I'm working my way down the river valley now, and today grassed the East bank.

 

I start by wetting the flock where I want to put the drier grass.  This gives me a bit more working time as it slows the setting of the glue:

 

 

Next, slosh a good layer of diluted PVA onto that area:

 

 

(I used some tissue to mop up the excess that was ponding...)

 

Then, out with the first static grass - a blend of shades to suggest a less lush area that is growing in shadow.

 

The go back, and slosh glue over the remaining area: 

 

 

and apply a more lush blend of grass closer to the water's edge:

 

 

From a more oblique angle

 

 

The eagle eyed of you will see my riverbanks have been detailed with the mossy sides, and also some overscale (paving) work. I really didn't have the patience to make 8ft of hand made footpaths to scale, but didn't want to just have a painted plasticard surface, so compromised with pavers that equated to about 1m square.  It doesn't really look wrong... unless you think about it.

 

I will add some lichen, and details to the grass to break up the monotony, once it's all dry.  Then move to the West bank.

 

***

 

The other work I am onto is the fascia that butts into the Eastern hill.  These two fascias will have water features cast against them, so I was keen to get them sorted and mounted - but do need to finish the scenery (except the water) first.  In this view you can sort of see how the panel I am varnishing now will sit in front of the hill to the right of frame...

 

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited November 27, 2018 by jukebox

[JZ]

For the brown seaweed below the mossy bit, I have used cheap kitchen towel soaked in suitable wood dye, torn up and pasted on with PVA.

[jukebox]

I really do need to name the river. Something Tyne/Wear/Tees-y. Tear? Wyne? Tyes?

 

I need to name it, cos it sounds silly saying I'm working on The Big River, which I have been...

 

Previously, I'd used cardboard to form up the rough contours.  Last night, I glued some old tee shirt to the riverbed, to give myself a bed to plaster and terraform:

 

 

Up front, I screwed a thin temporary end stop, that I can form and pour against, as I didn't want to make a mess of the fascia.  I covered that in cling wrap, to make it easy to remove afterward.

 

 

But before I did that, I finished landscaping both valley sides. As promised, I have extended the lichen down to the valley floor, and also added some different undergrowth textures using the Woodland Scenics foams.

 

 

On the west bank, the palette is a lot more subdued, in line with the feel of that side of the room - more grimy, and industrial.  Less lush.

 

 

I do like this side more, but the limits of space, even in a room filling layout, meant I had to compromise the east bank.  Regardless, I'm pleased where these are at now.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[jukebox]

Tonight, I spent two hours forming the river bottom.

 

That took three batches of plaster, carefully applied so as not to spoil my freshly minted scenery.

 

 

I used the plaster to form gentle slopes down from the bank walls to the invert along the middle of the river.

 

 

You can see looking at the end stop there's a fair bit of fall - probably 10-15mm to the middle

 

 

I am going to make up a test riverbed, to see what the tinted resin looks like.  I'm thinking of painting the river bottom black in the middle, fading out to brown on the edges, to exaggerate the depth.

 

Right now, wet, it looks like shiny mud

 

 

The final tint will be an olive green - so it should be dark and mysterious...

 

If I have done the plastering right, I now should have a "bowl" that is water tight, and I can fill with resin.  I'll place lots of old towels and blankets under the area when I do pour, and hopefully any leaks will be minor.

 

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

 

 

 

 

[jcredfer]

Well, just how that is all coming together now.  What a delight to see and I am really looking forward to seeing more.

 

Just a thought {probably weeks behind yours}, but is strikes me that a thin first coat of resin, or varnish, onto the plaster would have two advantages, thin being quick to dry, it would seal any smaller possible holes and any possible larger points for leaks would show up with only a minimum amount to leak through.

 

Kind regards

 

Julian

[jukebox]

Thanks Julian - yes, despite a bit of ping-pong-ing between "trades" and locations, I got a real sense of getting close to done with the scenery on at small area.  I plan to re-instate the temporary bridge for now, and won't come back to replace the span with a proper model until I have the rest of the trackwork (i.e. the MPD) down.

 

What has struck me (yet again) is the size; I was always going to add some timber baulks against the river bank, but now I can see how much open water there is, I am contemplating "something else" in the foreground, between the span and the front of the layout on or over the river, to break up the monotony.  Back to the research photos to investigate options.  (No, I won't be building a staith..., although I admit it would be eye catching...)

 

The thin resin coat is a valid idea - I've got a plan for a test section, and if I have any left over from that may put it to good use.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited December 12, 2018 by jukebox

[jukebox]

I'm working my way around the west side now, adding ground textures.

 

As I started to glue the base flocking on, I realised I need to lock down the outcrop of terrace houses that fills the North West corner, so I could grass up to them as close as possible.

 

It's an odd shape, so I drew it out, and checked on the dimensions of the Scalescenes terrace house unit, playing around to make them fit:

 

 

I then took the plan upstairs to mark out the plan on the layout - knowing my plan was only an approximation, because of the complex curve of the backscene.

 

It came out looking like this:

 

 

That helps me visualize things a lot better.  For instance, now I can see the way forward is to cut out bases from thin ply, to make the rows of houses removable - well, to be able to build them as units to install, really.

 

 

I will then build up the land to suit the empty bases, which will allow me to progress the grassing, and drop the terraces in later.

 

 

I will, however, do the run of flat terrace backs along the backscene - they will run all the way around the corner.

 

Once I had the plots of land sorted, I used the tubs I have my ground cover in, to set out how the mass of buildings will look, and see if there are any strange sight lines.

 

 

I was pleased with how they will fill the area

 

 

There's only a few houses I will have to nibble to make fit the curve, which is good.

 

 

House building isn't something I enjoy.  I guess I will need to learn to...

 

Cheers

 

Scott