drmditch Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 I've been meaning to comment on your 'big river' for a while, so a I hope you don't mind that this is so delayed. Between 1978 and 1995 ish I was quite well acquainted with the Tyne between Bill Point and Wylam. (After the mid 90s I was more concerned just with the estuary and out to sea.) Tidewater is always fascinating, and always changing. While the Stella power stations were still in operation the river was still being dredged. The ash ships (very much like traditional flat iron colliers) were up and down frequently, although I can only remember the 'Bessie Surtees' passing under my office window. Checking just now, Dunston staithes also went out of use in the late 70s. Once dredging above the Tyne Bridge ceased, the character of the river changed. The mud banks shown in the modern photographs above have grown extensively. The last time I sailed our annual race down from Ryton we touched bottom with the centre-board at about half-tide under the middle of the King Edward bridge. If you are modelling the 'working' river, there would probably be less mud! And, of course you will have to 'fix' the state of the tide! Best wishes for your magnificent railway. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted December 24, 2018 Author Share Posted December 24, 2018 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 HAPPY CHRISTMAS SCOTT AND A WONDERFUL NEW YEAR JULIAN 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 (edited) Happy New Year, everyone. I'm starting 2019 in modelling purgatory. I have a row of ~20 low relief terrace house backs running along the west wall. A board of 8, another board of 9, plus at least 3 stand alones that go around the curve of the backscene... Each house needs eight windows So to make these, I have to cut out 16 window panes.... Thats 64 cuts per house... Easily more than a thousand cuts. I cannot describe the tedium. Once the openings were cut, I struggled with how to proceed. I tried gluing acetate behind, but the dissimilar materials made that a bit ropey. And as I am fudging these, and not inserting the windows behind the walls, but pasting on top, I wasn't keen on making the lamination any thicker than it need be. In the end, I worked out I could apply glue to the curtain material, and stick that on from behind. The lack of glass wasn't a major issue Once it dried, I have a sheet of windows ready to stick on. Just another 32 cuts per building to remove them from the sheet. One hundred cuts per house. Just to add some windows. (I did think of just painting the openings black - Dave Shakespeare made that work well on Tetley Mills - but I can imagine being able to see "Cut Out" still visible under the paint, and rueing the day... so excision it was) Cheers Scott Edited January 5, 2019 by jukebox 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian D Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 This may come too late Scott but I use A4 size peal off stick on labels when maki g Scalescenes windows, printing the windows thereon and cutting out the glazed appertures before pealing off the backing and sticking onto clear film (clear report covers or overhead projector slides). The windows usually adhere well and it cuts out a lot of messy gluing. Regards, Brian. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) It's high summer, and so my modelling is curtailed somewhat - when your forearms are sweating all over the paper you are trying to slice with a knife, it's natures way of telling you to back away from the modelling desk. But I have nibbled away at the 1st row of terraces: That's art board, which I am about to skin with brick paper Production line underway. 9 up front, 8 in rear, and that just gets be to the curve on the backs scene. Here's the first 9, dropped into place: That embankment has been flocked with olive green, but it will get toned down with 4 shades of dead grass There's a 5-20mm gap that I will need to plaster in, and then I can hit the grassing along that bank. The one in front will also be a muted dead shade - but without a flock base The effect I was looking for was something like this: I've not got a lot of confidence that the colours will stay fast for more than a decade. That's one reason I made the units removable. 10 years down the road, I might have to slide them out and spring the big $$$ for some Scenecraft ones... But for now, they get the job done. Cheers Scott Edited February 9, 2019 by jukebox The horrid new web design doesn't let me preview... 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISW Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Scott, I will be using inkjet printed paper for my buildings as well, so I'm interested regarding your comment about the degree of colourfastness. Can this be improved by the application of a clear coat - basically waterproofing spray? I'm sure it will improve the 'robustness'. Or are there any other methods that would help? I got the impression that the new website was essentially WYSIWYG, and thus a preview was no longer necessary? Mind you, the necessity to use TWO vertical scrollbars (one for the 'page' and the other for your 'posting') is a little tiresome! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 I did the printed paper bit and only 5 years later, I ended up with a green wall, instead of red brick. {Some might say I shouldn't have left it outside by the hedge, but I didn't - honest, just light through the windows.} I had to replace the paper on the wall and chose Backscenes self adhesive paper. The picture shows the difference. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) Maybe a bit clearer in this one. The lighter red section, under the green Pooch tub, is the original inkjet colour, as it sits behind the goods shed wall. The green, faded sections to the right are a true colour of the fade. Regards Julian Edited February 10, 2019 by jcredfer Spelling ... again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) On 09/02/2019 at 19:06, ISW said: Scott, I will be using inkjet printed paper for my buildings as well, so I'm interested regarding your comment about the degree of colourfastness. Can this be improved by the application of a clear coat - basically waterproofing spray? I'm sure it will improve the 'robustness'. Or are there any other methods that would help? I got the impression that the new website was essentially WYSIWYG, and thus a preview was no longer necessary? Mind you, the necessity to use TWO vertical scrollbars (one for the 'page' and the other for your 'posting') is a little tiresome! Hi Ian - I know the Scalescenes instructions do recommend a clear coat over the top. I have forked out for three different brands of aerosol Matt varnish - and not one of them seems to dry matt. So I've not progressed down that path. Perversely, I know the Testors Dullcoate *will* dry matt, but that stuff costs as much for a weeny spray can as the non-hobby ones do for a fullsize aerosol.... The other thing that might work in my favour, is that these are printed on a laser printer, not an inkjet. I have access to a large colour printer at work, so ran off what I needed there. Of course they may be even worse for longevity... *** Not so sure about WYSISYG. I had it looking okay, hit "post" and all the captions ended up bunched to the side of the photos... and I can't see a way to "multiquote"... and miss having a home screen with 25+ new topics instead of the 1 or so, full of details don't need to read, that we have now... The older I get, the less tolerant I am of change. But I accept this was partly a security issue, so just have to suck it up. Edited February 11, 2019 by jukebox Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 On 10/02/2019 at 02:29, jcredfer said: Maybe a bit clearer in this one. The lighter red section, under the green Pooch tub, is the original inkjet colour, as it sits behind the goods shed wall. The green, faded sections to the right are a true colour of the fade. Regards Julian Looks like you went from red brick to Cotswold stone, Julian! I won't have direct sunlight on mine - the UV we get here down under would bleach stuff in a season - but even every day light *must* have some impact. The terrace house will be the only pre-printed card structures on Stockrington. I'll build the station, MPD, and farm from painted plasticard. I much prefer it as a construction medium, I have to admit. Cheers Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 The inkjet ones are pretty useless, they weren't even in direct sunlight. The pre-printed stuff has to be much better. I have some reservations about some of the ordinary house brick plastic efforts, as they seem to overdo the mortar depth a bit. on another Forum, someone did a little calculation on just how small the depth of Pointing would actually be at 1:76, almost invisible to the eye. I think there may be a slightly different point to make about it, on very old neglected building, 'though. I do like the stone plastic ones, which can be very realistic. Regards and enjoy the sun, it hasn't been much in evidence here for a while. Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISW Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 On 11/02/2019 at 01:59, jukebox said: Hi Ian - *** Not so sure about WYSISYG. I had it looking okay, hit "post" and all the captions ended up bunched to the side of the photos... Scott, I think what you are doing wrong is not adding a 'return' after the photograph. It is treating the photo 'as just another character', so if you miss the 'return' it word-wraps the photo+text. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 (edited) Hello all, it's time for a monthly progress update. Three weeks of doing nothing, but the sleeper has awoken. 17 relief terrace backs finished, and installed: Suitably long, and nondescript. Even a sly 75% front between the rows... I'll cobble that lane. Ropey trackwork exposed... And this morning, I batched some plaster, and bedded these in to the existing embankment: The extra plaster improves the contours at the far end. Later today... tomorrow... or maybe next week, I'll add the vegetation. Cheers Scott Edited March 9, 2019 by jukebox 7 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxokid Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Great work there Scott 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 I really like the alleyway, very clever addition of depth. Regards Julian 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted March 9, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2019 Hi Scott, I really like your Scalescenes' terraces. I have the download too and a couple might find themselves on my Derwent. Just a thought on what you can see through the gaps between the houses - would it not be the front of the row opposite rather than the back? After all they were not called back-to-backs for nothing? Another £4.99 (or Aussie $ =) for the low relief house fronts shouldn't hurt the bank balance too much would it? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 On 10/03/2019 at 03:52, Rowsley17D said: Hi Scott, I really like your Scalescenes' terraces. I have the download too and a couple might find themselves on my Derwent. Just a thought on what you can see through the gaps between the houses - would it not be the front of the row opposite rather than the back? After all they were not called back-to-backs for nothing? Another £4.99 (or Aussie $ =) for the low relief house fronts shouldn't hurt the bank balance too much would it? Tsk, tsk! An *excellent* observation, Jonathan - and one I actually was aware of, as the streets of full width terraces in the corner will be back-to-back - but just didn't think it thru. And because i have downloaded the full width Scalescenes files, I actually had the fronts and could have used them... The rows of low relief backs I have used are firmly glued in place, so I'll have to leave that one I have already done, but will certainly change the other three or four I am going to use. Well spotted! Cheers Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 (edited) And so here comes the vegetation... I started last weekend, and this morning was adding some dull flock to the open space down by the carriage sidings... Thick PVA glue, two shades of flock spread over the top, and vacuumed up with a stocking to recover 80% when it's dry. In this longer view, you can see I've started adding layers to the embankment above the sidings too... Here's a close up - the PVA glue is wet - and you can see how the static grass goes *everywhere*. Just using a single grass type creates a very flat look. So I tend to go back and add large patches of a contrasting shade. You can see that in the distance here: I'd already done that on the left hand side, so went back added a third layer of short dead grass over the top. You can see I've now vacuumed the flock here, too... The 35kV of the Greenkeeper came into play nicely this afternoon. I added a thicker strip of PVA alongside the branchline, and use the applicator to rally pull the strands vertical: That'll vacuum up tidily. It's not done - glue needs to dry, and I need to vacuum the loose deposits up and add more textures - but it's coming to life. When I look across at the rural valley on the far side of the room, which is very green, I am really liking the contrast this side shows - a gritter, less picturesque appearance. And lastly, a whinge. In doing this layering, I'm following the directions, videos, and suggestions from the WWS webpage, and spend considerable coin airfreighting two bottles of their special "layering spray". Whilst the glue performs as described, the spray nozzles on the bottles are utter rubbish. After one application, they stream, rather than mist spray. I got caught mid-decoration today, and ended up using a long bristle brush and brushing the glue on - using about 10 times as much as if I'd sprayed it. My next task will be to find a suitable spray bottle replacement. Grrrrrrr. Cheers Scott Edited March 16, 2019 by jukebox typos and missed words 5 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donington Road Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 13 hours ago, jukebox said: And lastly, a whinge. In doing this layering, I'm following the directions, videos, and suggestions from the WWS webpage, and spend considerable coin airfreighting two bottles of their special "layering spray". Whilst the glue performs as described, the spray nozzles on the bottles are utter rubbish. After one application, the stream, rather than mist spray. I got caught mid-decoration today, and ended up using a long bristle brush and brushing the glue on - using about 10 times as much as if I'd sprayed it. My next task will be to find a suitable spray bottle replacement. Grrrrrrr. Cheers Scott Maybe the nozzle is clogging up, have you tried soaking the nozzle in hot water. Sometimes you can get the nozzle off to give it a soak, vodka works very well cleaning such things. I use it a lot to clean print heads rather than the usual recommended isopropyl alcohol. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 The vodka wouldn't have worked, Mick, cos I'd have drunk it straight from the bottle to calm my attitude! The nozzle *is* clogging up, but this is even after I've removed it and soaked and flushed it immediately after use. It works fine the first time, but just once... Seems that the shape of the outlet is hyper sensitive to clogging, and once a tiny amount of the stuff has congealed, it all goes to mud. I need to solve the issue, as I want to add a number more layers - including a layer of fine earth - that absolutely needs a spray, not a sopaking, to work properly. 8am here in Perth, I shall be working on it today! Cheers Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 (edited) Still absurdly humid upstairs... and I can't turn the fan on to give myself a breeze whilst I'm apply static grass. Go ahead, ask me how I know that. But I did a couple of short stints, and here's the state of play at the close of the day: That run of straw coloured grass in the middle has tufted nicely. Just needs some contrasting material to tone it done from the monochrome look it has - despite the fact it's *not* - you can see there's a deeper shade midway along, but it still needs a bit of work. I got a spray head working - sort of - and so have gone back and applied a coat of dead grass texture over the right side of Northmoor Bank. Once it's vacuumed up, it should blend well with the left side. I also added a bead of 6mm straw to the base of the terrace house rear walls. Once I'm done with the static grass, I'll go back and add a bit of creeping vegetation on some of those walls to break it up a bit. This slightly more oblique shot shows why I have to do all this now; that's naked L-girder under there. These terrace houses will be 1200mm from the front of the layout, and in fact Northmoor MPD, Stockrington's loco shed, will be where you can see the exposed woodwork. Cheers everyone. Scott Edited March 17, 2019 by jukebox Typos 7 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NittenDormer Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 Enjoying your thread, I feel your terraced house pain. I've turned to tunnel mouths, or anything without windows. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxokid Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 On 16/03/2019 at 09:40, jukebox said: And so here comes the vegetation... I started last weekend, and this morning was adding some dull flock to the open space down by the carriage sidings... Thick PVA glue, two shades of flock spread over the top, and vacuumed up with a stocking to recover 80% when it's dry. In this longer view, you can see I've started adding layers to the embankment above the sidings too... Here's a close up - the PVA glue is wet - and you can see how the static grass goes *everywhere*. Just using a single grass type creates a very flat look. So I tend to go back and add large patches of a contrasting shade. You can see that in the distance here: I'd already done that on the left hand side, so went back added a third layer of short dead grass over the top. You can see I've now vacuumed the flock here, too... The 35kV of the Greenkeeper came into play nicely this afternoon. I added a thicker strip of PVA alongside the branchline, and use the applicator to rally pull the strands vertical: That'll vacuum up tidily. It's not done - glue needs to dry, and I need to vacuum the loose deposits up and add more textures - but it's coming to life. When I look across at the rural valley on the far side of the room, which is very green, I am really liking the contrast this side shows - a gritter, less picturesque appearance. And lastly, a whinge. In doing this layering, I'm following the directions, videos, and suggestions from the WWS webpage, and spend considerable coin airfreighting two bottles of their special "layering spray". Whilst the glue performs as described, the spray nozzles on the bottles are utter rubbish. After one application, they stream, rather than mist spray. I got caught mid-decoration today, and ended up using a long bristle brush and brushing the glue on - using about 10 times as much as if I'd sprayed it. My next task will be to find a suitable spray bottle replacement. Grrrrrrr. Cheers Scott More "top" work here Scott realy coming to life now with the different shades of grass.. cheers neil. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) It's the weekend... and mercifully, a sea breeze was in last night. So this morning I was upstairs, and vacuumed away the "dead grass" that I applied last weekend. The end result was good - but a little too lifeless for me. So I decided I needed to lift the tones uniformly across the whole Western scene. To do that, I needed to mask off all the trackwork. I use ripped up old business shirts to cover the tracks. It's not to stop the static grass, but rather, because I am spraying the glue, to stop the glue covering the area where grass isn't supposed to be. The Greenkeeper is loaded and ready to do it's thing... though I changed the nozzle to a full width mesh - it "pulls" the fibres better to get them vertical. This should give you an idea what a messy task this is. I'd say I recover 75% of what I lay down. I probably lose another 5-10% A long shot from the other side of the room - with my under layout storage rather visible! You can see the darker patches that I was adding this morning. After that was done, I removed the shirts, shaking the excess onto the layout - I'll vacuum it up this afternoon. I then turned my attention to that monochromatic row of tufts near the branch line. I used a paint brush and dabbed some of the rather watery layering glue along the row. The plan is to try and get it closer in tone to the material on the right hand side of the track. Again, an almighty mess... until I vacuum it up. But it seems to have achieved what I wanted. Fingers crossed. If not, I'll go back, and add another layer. Cheers Scott Edited March 23, 2019 by jukebox 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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