Getting Down and Dirty

[tender]

Hi Rick, nice work weathering of the clay wagons. I have a rake of these but never liked the thick material used for the covers and the stitching so I made new ones from tissue paper and dope.

 

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67862-camel-quay-a-north-cornwall-inspired-layout-in-4mm/?p=1644269

 

Ray.

[Gwiwer]

I haven't been here for a while have I?

 

Some of the weathering and detail work done in the past few months has appeared in my other topics for the Penhayle Bay and Boghouses layouts.

 

The arrival of Bachmann's class 43 Warships has prompted me to revisit this area as the first par are now detailed, weathered, fitted with Fox etched nameplates and have entered traffic.

 

First a comparison of the final release of class 42 (left) with the new class 43 (right), both of which carry my own weathering.  The new loco is fractionally larger so definitely not a retooling but an all-new product.  The difference is small enough that the two can be run side by side (or double-heading) without any real issues.

 

 

D865 "Zealous" in her weathered glory

 

 

Another comparison with class 43 to the left and class 42 to the right; the size and shape differences are visible but to my eyes don't produce an incompatible clash.  In any case the two types should not be worked in multiple and when used on adjacent tracks the difference is even less apparent.

 

 

Here's D835 "Pegasus" displaying some of that streaking which the class often featured from the lower edge of the windscreen and the grab-rails.  Also showing the detail applied from the pack which includes those minuscule roof lifting rings.

 

 

At both ends as well; this is the "inner" end with the coupler fitted rather than the plumbing

 

 

And in traffic showing the effect of the Fox nameplate standing out from the bodyside panels.

 

[Andrew P]

Very nice weathering Rick, I hadn't noticed the streaking before, its very effective.

 

I now have the Early (none DCC / hard wired) 42 in Green, the last 42, Kelly in Blue with a 21 pin chip and lights, and a Blue and Maroon new Model and I found it difficult to find major differences, I have chickened out and haven't fitted the lifting eyes YET. Yours looks better for it though, really nice modelling considering your up side down, hahaha.

 

Thanks,

[Gwiwer]

Very nice weathering Rick, I hadn't noticed the streaking before, its very effective.

 

 

 

Thank you Andrew.

 

I think of weathering as something which is sometimes "not seen" but noticed more by its absence on out-of-the-box models.  In other words it should be just enough, sometimes quite subtle, and appropriate for the prototype.  I hope I'm learning to achieve this.

[Gwiwer]

Blue Warship 842 "Royal Oak" finally arrived today.  All the bits went on quite easily this time; having done two others I almost felt like an expert as those pesky lifting rings dropped into place one after another ..... with only one lost to the floor.  That was good because the pressure was on.  Of 24 supplied for 20 required two were snapped on the sprue meaning my margin for error was only two this time around.

 

But when it came to fit the etched nameplate I struck a problem which I have heard of elsewhere.  The Fox plates for the maroon and green Warships were perfect fits over the Tampo but not this one.  It's significantly smaller so the original will have to come off.  I also agree with comments posted on other topics about the BR double-arrow logo being over-sized; I think it is.  I could do that at the same time but don't have suitable replacements.  

 

Time to put the thinking cap on and decide the best way to proceed.

[Gwiwer]

I looked around the traps for advice on removal of tampo print without harming body paintwork.  I asked in the model shop which lives in the basement at work (it's better than it sounds, actually!).  Most suggestions involved Modelstrip or T-cut.

 

So I came home and placed some hot water in a bowl with a little washing up liquid, took out a cotton bud and crossed my fingers .....

 

Tampo and etch side by side showing the need to remove the former

 

 

Rubbity-rub with just moderate pressure and hey presto!

 

 

99.95% gone - there's a very faint outline visible if you really look hard.

 

 

And the etched plate is in place.  

 

 

Apologies for the image quality.  These were taken using the phone at the workbench for record purposes only.

 

And after taking the tampo off with soap and water what did I stick the etch down with?  PVA.  It gives a little more "wriggle time" than superglue, doesn't harm the paintwork if it leaks and can be easily removed from the edges if it does.

[TrevorP1]

 

I looked around the traps for advice on removal of tampo print without harming body paintwork.  I asked in the model shop which lives in the basement at work (it's better than it sounds, actually!).  Most suggestions involved Modelstrip or T-cut.

 

So I came home and placed some hot water in a bowl with a little washing up liquid, took out a cotton bud and crossed my fingers .....

 

Tampo and etch side by side showing the need to remove the former

 

 

 

Rubbity-rub with just moderate pressure and hey presto!

 

 

99.95% gone - there's a very faint outline visible if you really look hard.

 

 

 

And the etched plate is in place.  

 

 

 

Apologies for the image quality.  These were taken using the phone at the workbench for record purposes only.

 

And after taking the tampo off with soap and water what did I stick the etch down with?  PVA.  It gives a little more "wriggle time" than superglue, doesn't harm the paintwork if it leaks and can be easily removed from the edges if it does.

 

 

 

Really useful to know that. I have no excuse now other than the 'to do' list getting longer!

 

Totally agree with your PVA method for fixing plates. I don't use anything else. Never had one come off either.

[Gwiwer]

Finally 842 "Royal Oak" paid a visit to the weathering bench and has received a light blathering of road-grime.  The intention is to present this loco as being rather closer to "ex-works" condition, though not spanking new, than some of the others.

 

 

[brushman47544]

Oh rats....if the nameplate can be fixed with washing up liquid I've no excuse.

 

And the weathering looks superb Rick, especially that streaking effect on the green version.

[Gwiwer]

It's the turn of the Westerns to parade for the camera.

 

All have been weathered to varying degrees and the Heljan ones fitted with Fox etched name and number plates over their Tampo-printed versions.  Most of those from Dapol came ready-fitted with etched plates and commissioned weathering.  

 

First the Heljan fleet.  Famous for their "baseball cap" misshapen cab window canopy this can be modified to look better when details are added such as fitting the wipers.  Some modellers have taken files to the bodywork but I'm not that assiduous!

 

D1067 Western Druid has all the details fitted and runs on Howes wheels which replaced the original Heljan brassy ones.  The new ones don't require cleaning every lap of the track!  They did require a fairly heavy weathering however achieved by applying a coat of Humbrol Rust Wash then brushing AIM Grimy Black weathering powder onto that while still wet.  This loco also has Heljan's own headcode panels fitted internally and a Bachmann crew.

 

 

D1023 Western Fusilier was the last member of the class in traffic and became a celebrity loco.  It was the only one to gain "domino" headcode panels in BR days (two white dots on a black panel where the numbers used to be ) and Heljan represent it in this form.  

 

I have also painted out the D on the number plate; around 1973 most of those locos which lasted that long had the D painted out by depot staff.  "D" for diesel and "E" for electric was no longer relevant as TOPS was replacing the old BR numbers - this class wasn't renumbered owing to their very short life and the cost of replacing cast plates.

 

This loco has later-style Heljan wheels which didn't need replacing.

 

 

D1007 Western Talisman has replacement wheels fitted.  The Heljan moulding omits what are known to aficionados as "Talisman clips".  This loco sadly ended its career by derailing at high speed through West Ealing with fatal consequences.  The cause was found to be the battery box cover being insecure and, having come loose, striking a point motor which caused the points to change beneath the train.  Survivors were fitted with a different and larger pattern of clip which of course this loco never carried ..... though all the Dapol ones do have the clips moulded despite them being a late modification to only some locos.

 

 

Broadside:

 

 

And with some detail of the wheels which as anyone who uses Howes sets will know arrive very shiny indeed.  This also shows the extent of bogie moulding on the Heljan locos including an absence of brake rodding.  That can be applied separately but as with their lamp irons the fitting is seriously oversized and I have not used them.

 

 

D1012 Western Firebrand was a second-hand purchase and arrived here in as-new condition.  It's accumulated some dirt since then.  Later-pattern wheels are fitted.

 

 

Broadside showing the effect of fitting the Fox name, number and works plates.

 

 

Firebrand and Talisman posed nose-to-nose showing the different levels of weathering applied

 

 

Moving on to the Dapol fleet here's D1042 Western Princess carrying Kernow MRC / Mercig Studios factory-applied weathering but with my additions of grille rust and oil staining.  The higher level of bogie detail including user-fitted brake rods can be appreciated.  Compare the battery box clips with those on the Heljan models.  These are "Talisman clips" which don't belong on locos in maroon livery.

 

 

D1030 Western Musketeer carries "Chromatic blue" over which debate still rages in some circles as to whether it was any different to standard rail blue. This one is just about out-of-the-box with only a wipe of black weathering powder along the roof line added.

 

 

Broadside showing again the high level of detail Dapol achieved and the quality of the weathering as supplied.  The nameplate is slightly adrift at the right-hand end but in order to prevent stray glue marks I'm going to leave it unless it comes right off.  Prising it off now to rectify might bend it.

 

 

D1056 Western Sultan.  The one Dapol loco I have which was not a Kernow MRC commission and therefore arrived pristine and requiring plates to be user-fitted is seen here with my own weathering applied and a slight seepage of nameplate adhesive.  In addition I had to replace Dapol's stick-on external headcodes with some spare internal ones in order to look better 

 

 

D1068 Western Reliance completes the fleet and shows the level of applied detail on the front end with the commissioned locos.  The pipes and roof lifting rings all had to be user-fitted on the mainstream releases such as Sultan.  I have added some rust streaking to the front end and a little more general dirt.

 

 

The "inner" end is fitted with a standard coupler which ingeniously passes through a slot in the valence meaning the overall appearance is largely retained.  It seems it's not only me who manages to glue number plates on without first filing off all of the sprue link!

 

 

And ready for action!  

 

 

Both brands run and pull superbly with very little to choose between them.  The Dapol ones are a better representation and are easier to rail.  Heljan locos have the centre wheel set unpowered and unguarded meaning it is free to lift and not rail correctly when the others are placed on the track.  Westerns seldom ran in pairs though did work paired with other classes at times; both brands run happily paired up though different gearing and current draw means they don't run as happily in a mixed pairing.  

 

I present the Westerns of Penhayle Bay.

[Gwiwer]

And the Warship fleet in its entirety.

 

As mentioned elsewhere I have recently added to stock three of Bachmann's class 43 Warship models.  These complement seven of the earlier class 42 type which range in age from the original Mainline tooling to the final version issued a few years ago.

 

All now carry Fox etched nameplates as well as varying levels of detail according to that supplied in the boxes.  Some have couplers at both ends in order to run paired up so cannot have the curved valence or pipework attached.

 

All have received varying degrees of weathering ranging from almost ex-works to absolutely filthy.  And as usual the camera takes no prisoners and there are some details which require improvement.

 

The fleet is presented below with a front three-quarters view and a side shot including the nameplate for each of the fleet.

 

I do not intend to acquire any further locos of this type though do have the five early D600-style Warships (sometimes referred to as class 41) on order and due from Kernow MRC some time next year.

 

D804 Avenger (an early Mainline-style loco fitted with more recent Bachmann power train and bogies)

 

 

 

D806 Cambrian:

 

 

 

D809 Champion 

 

 

 

812 The Royal Naval Reserve 1859-1959 (which was to have been named Despatch in the alphabetic sequence; the plates were cast but never fitted as it gained the commemorative "RNR" appellation instead)

 

 

 

D827 Kelly

 

 

 

D835 Pegasus

 

 

 

842 Royal Oak (yes I know the builder's plate has come unstuck)

 

 

 

D865 Zealous

 

 

 

D867 Zenith

 

 

 

870 Zulu

 

 

 

[BRealistic]

I dooooo like your weathering, Rick.  Always have done.  Superb's the word! ... and all achieved without the 'aid' of an airbrush. 

[Gwiwer]

I dooooo like your weathering, Rick.  Always have done.  Superb's the word! ... and all achieved without the 'aid' of an airbrush. 

 

Thank you kindly.  

 

As you say all (of mine) is done without an airbrush despite owning one.  The Dapol-applied weathering on the 52s might be airbrushed however.  Ironically I go to the other extreme and usually use a 1" house-painting brush to work the powders in and achieve some of the effects.  My other standard piece of kit is cut-up squares of old T-shirts which are the best wipe I know of.  It also helps to puff air from an old camera-cleaning puffer afterwards to remove excess powder and stray dust particles.

[Gwiwer]

The DJ Models / Kernow MRC-commissioned Adams O2-class tanks are starting to arrive.  I have three due of which 30182 is a push-pull fitted example and 30225 not so fitted.  Isle of Wight No.16 will join them very soon but the first two have been run in, had crew added, suitable bits from the bag fitted and have gained some grime.

 

This is a near-copy of posts already made in the main Adams O2 topic but belongs here as well.

 

30182, featuring the early BR logo, arrived first and gained a Bachmann crew, supplied couplers and as much of the buffer-beam pipework as it's possible to use when those couplers are fitted.  The supplied SR headcode discs are thoughtfully moulded to include both a visible handle (so not just a flat disc) and a moulded U-shape on the reverse to help attach them to the lamp irons rather than perching a flat surface on a tiny lug.

 

These views are posed in strong sunlight which usually show up any and all flaws mercilessly.

 

 

 

 

 

And with a Hornby push-pull set in tow

 

 

For comparison I then brought out another Southern 0-4-4T type, the Hornby M7, and coupled that to a recently-arrived Bachmann SR 4-wheel van in front of the push-pull set.  The M7 itself is quite small but significantly larger than the O2.

 

 

The second to arrive was 30225.  DJ Models has ensured that the detail differences between individual locos have been captured in the models so aside from the glaringly obvious absence of Westinghouse pump there are tiny detail variations around the loco.  Of note also this loco does not feature the tank reinforcement as on 30182 and which can be seen in the photos above as a line along the lower part of the tanks.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

And to show how effective the coal can look when compared with the manufacturer's plastic moulding:

 

 

These tiny locos were never intended to haul long trains.  On my layout, which has steep gradients, they run well on their own but will grumble with two or three coaches on.  30225 "picked up her skirt" slightly when starting smokebox-first with a load on.  This is a railway term meaning the weight transfer shifts away from the driving wheels causing loss of traction and spinning. She's had some air-dry clay added to the smokebox void as ballast with good results.  She starts and runs better with a modest load and the clay being inert will not affect the electrics inside.

 

Making headway with the Maunsell set

 

 

 

And tackling a short parcel train with the driver giving the photographer a jaunty wave!

 

[NHY 581]

Very nice work, Rick. I much prefer the texture and look of powders and find them a lot easier than paint to apply.

 

Rob.

[Gwiwer]

The other new arrival here is the Hornby S15, a main-line type which as far as the West of England goes was largely confined to the Waterloo - Exeter route and so far as I can find seldom ran beyond.  The discs are set for Waterloo - Plymouth (with engine changes at Salisbury and Exeter Central, of course) and the weathering on this shows it to have been more of a challenge.  

 

The Hornby plastic is shiny and powders don't grab at all readily.  I ended up wiping the first attempt off.  I'm not happy with the second as shown but it's an improvement.  This uses Carrs powders which have taken a bit better than my normal AIM brand.

 

 

 

[Barry O]

Rick, try washing the plastic with soapy water. It isn't just shiny. Lately some of the Bachmann and Hornby stock I have been weathering have had "slidy" surface to them.

Baz

[Mick Bonwick]

Rick, try washing the plastic with soapy water. It isn't just shiny. Lately some of the Bachmann and Hornby stock I have been weathering have had "slidy" surface to them.

Baz

 

Hornby locomotives are beginning to appear with the age old Bachmann problem of excessive grease and oil on the geartrain, so this might be the source of your 'slidy' surface. During their time in the box during transit, this excess creeps along and through all the body joins and forms a film over the external surface as well. I found a factory weathered J15 recently where this had badly affected the finish, straight out of the box.

 

I suggest using small quantities of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on a cotton bud to remove the oil - it has worked every time for me, so far! I have seen a vinegar solution mentioned as another way of cleaning before weathering, but have not tried this myself. I prefer the smell of IPA.

[NHY 581]

I had a similar problem with a Bachmann S&D7F. Oil everwhere. Still not convinced I got it all off. As a result the finish could be better.

 

Rob

[Gwiwer]

There is definitely excess oil on the S15.  It's already started to show through the powder weathering.  The upshot is that I'll probably have to wipe it off again but this time with soapy water then re-apply.  Hopefully third time lucky.

[NHY 581]

There is definitely excess oil on the S15.  It's already started to show through the powder weathering.  The upshot is that I'll probably have to wipe it off again but this time with soapy water then re-apply.  Hopefully third time lucky.

Apparently it is not excess oil. This is factory applied weathering in the form of "Oily rag finish"

 

Rob.

[Mick Bonwick]

There is definitely excess oil on the S15.  It's already started to show through the powder weathering.  The upshot is that I'll probably have to wipe it off again but this time with soapy water then re-apply.  Hopefully third time lucky.

 

Rick, you'll need to remove it all from the inside of the body as well, or it will just reappear. Check the area around the periphery of the flywheel area, on the interior surfaces and joins in the bodywork, because that will be where it is at its worst. The grease turns to a very thin oily substance, and that is what is drawn, by capillary action, through all your powders.

[Jlk2707]

Cool! Great Job!

[Gwiwer]

The last of my O2s arrived soon after Christmas but has had to wait until now for attention.  It's an Isle of Wight version with the enlarged bunker those locos had in order to avoid a need for daily coaling.  It is also fitted with some of the detail bits.  I have removed the front coupler and fitting entirely as this loco is unlikely to be run in both directions on a layout and is intended more as a display piece purchased because I remember them in service and chose to support the commissioning retailer in this venture.  The bunker end has the loop coupler fitted for occasional use. The head-signal disc is set for Ryde - Ventnor all stations while the number 1 plate on the bunker is the loco duty which was sometimes (but far from always) displayed on Island engines.  Its use was even less frequent in later years.

 

Etched nameplates, the duty number plate and an optional RCTS railtour plate are supplied as are fire irons, dummy couplers and pipework.  The cast number plate on the bunker is a factory-fitted detail.  As before the cab roof was removed per supplied instructions to fit a Bachmann crew and weather both them and the cab interior.

 

These photos were taken inside on the workbench and consequently suffer from poor illumination and grain.

 

 

 

 

 

[NHY 581]

Very nice job,Rick.

 

Subtle, displaying a good eye and a light touch. Essential for convincing weathering.

 

Rob