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2mm Layout, based in South Wales


Trevor H

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The two main couplings are DGs are AJs, for 2FS.

 

I have gone the DG route, as I have used them in N gauge previously and was very happy with them. Stephen Harris also uses them, so you can be sure that they will fit onto his kits. Also, most 2mm Association kits come with mounting points also. I would suggest you fit these with the bottom of the buffering plate 4.5mm above the rail head.

 

AJs look much finer, but a much more work. I ahve never used them so can't go into detail.

 

Hi Bryn,

 

Thanks for the Info on DG's, this will probably be my route as a lot of people seem to recomend them, I had a play with AJ's in 4mm before going the 3 link route.

 

Looking on your thread I see you was working on etches for the Herring, has this progressed any further, would be interseted in some myself.

 

Cheers

Trevor.

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Trevor,

 

Slow down a bit. You'll put the rest of us to shame when yours is the only finished Challenge layout at the Expo! blink.gif

 

Regards,

David

 

Hi David,

 

I'm sure I'll come to a grounding halt before long and I still got to look at build some stock for it.

 

Just i had a few days holiday over Christmas so decided to get stuck in and have really been enjoying it, got to go back to work in the morningsad.gif

 

Trevor.

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OK a bit of an update and a few images before I go back to work in the morningsad.gif

 

All the pointwork is now in, just needing the odd cosmetic chair and sliding chairs to be fitted, which I'll leave for a few days until it's all settled down, the mainline and crossover is also completed and has worked well with it's sweeping curve. I stiil need to lay the plain track for the five sidings but I want to work out the building sizes first so I can work around them.

 

post-6909-12621347204618_thumb.jpg

post-6909-12621347628779_thumb.jpg

 

And for those not familiar with 2mm, a few tools available from the 2mm Association to make the job a lot easier:

Various track gauges

Jig for making Vee's available in various angles

Crossing Jig for holding parts together whilst soldering the crossing together

And finally although I used individual sleepers you can make your points directly on to these milled sleeper tunouts which are available for various points.

 

post-6909-12621347992795_thumb.jpg

 

Some links from the 2mm Association on assembling Easitrak

 

http://www.2mm.org.u...trac/index.html

 

http://www.2mm.org.u...ction_Guide.pdf

 

http://www.2mm.org.u.../TOU/index.html

 

Cheers

Trevor

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Looking on your thread I see you was working on etches for the Herring, has this progressed any further, would be interseted in some myself.

 

It should be going off for it's first full test etch in February, all being well. It's looking more like a scratch aid than a kit, to be honest rolleyes.gif I doubt I am going to sell them in large quantities, due to their complex nature, but if you're will to have a play I'm sure something can be arranged.

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Hello again,

 

Have you curved the turnouts to match the sweeping curve or have you left them straight as the curve appears shallow enough? I think my next endeavour in 2FS will have to be in easitrack its so much faster and than having to solder each sleeper of both straight track and on the turnouts.

 

Inspirational speed!

 

Wyvern

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The progress you've made shows just how quick track building is with easy track. It took me much longer to build the 4 points and 3m of track for the main part of Avonwick.

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Trevor - 6 turnouts completed straight off and I am still faffing about with my first.

 

Truly impressive progress - I like the use of the pcb sleepers around the frog too - I might have to 'make reference' to that if you don't mind ;-)

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It should be going off for it's first full test etch in February, all being well. It's looking more like a scratch aid than a kit, to be honest rolleyes.gif I doubt I am going to sell them in large quantities, due to their complex nature, but if you're will to have a play I'm sure something can be arranged.

 

 

Thanks Bryn,

 

Would be interested in giving them a go, but I'll be in no rush and would much prefer you concentrate your time on Colwyn Bay Goodswink.gif , on another note the last time I saw Stoney Lane Depot, Grahame Hedges had some Mermaids running around, you wouldn't know whose kits they were by any chance.

 

Trevor.

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Hello again,

 

Have you curved the turnouts to match the sweeping curve or have you left them straight as the curve appears shallow enough? I think my next endeavour in 2FS will have to be in easitrack its so much faster and than having to solder each sleeper of both straight track and on the turnouts.

 

Inspirational speed!

 

Wyvern

 

Hi Wyvern,

 

The curve in the photo is probably a bit exagerated by the camera, but the turnouts are curved to follow the curve, when building the points the rail was a single continuation of the approach rail so the stock rail, normally the straight rail was fixed first and then the rest built from this with the normal track gauges.

 

I am one who prefers to build points in situ than transfer it to the layout once built, hope this all makes sense.

 

Trevor

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The progress you've made shows just how quick track building is with easy track. It took me much longer to build the 4 points and 3m of track for the main part of Avonwick.

 

 

I can't empathise how much quicker using Easitrac was than laying individual sleepers and I doubt I'd of gone the 2mm route without them, were really a joy to work with.

 

If I can progress to what you've reached with Avonside I'll be more than happy.

 

Trevor

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Trevor - 6 turnouts completed straight off and I am still faffing about with my first.

 

Truly impressive progress - I like the use of the pcb sleepers around the frog too - I might have to 'make reference' to that if you don't mind ;-)

 

 

No problem Barcaneatpete thats what sharing is all aboutwink.gif I must say the work I put in those three days of laying track was probably getting on for 30hrs work, so probably not quite that quick.

 

I'm now looking at what to build for a goods shed and knowing my luck it'll probably take as much time again trying to find some ideas, this is when I would prefer building something prototypical as all the ideas are already their for yousmile.gif , just a case of a lot of research.

 

Cheers

Trevor.

 

ps. love the planning and work you've put into your thread.

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On another note the last time I saw Stoney Lane Depot, Grahame Hedges had some Mermaids running around, you wouldn't know whose kits they were by any chance.

 

No idea what Grahame has, but Stephen Harris does a kit. I've got 11 in my gloat box, resin bodies on the usual etched chassis. One can been seen on his layout below;

 

http://newimages.fotopic.net/?iid=ygjw3j&outx=600&noresize=1&nostamp=1

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No idea what Grahame has, but Stephen Harris does a kit. I've got 11 in my gloat box, resin bodies on the usual etched chassis. One can been seen on his layout below;

 

http://newimages.fot...ize=1&nostamp=1

 

Thanks Bryn,

 

Their is some lovely wagons in that shotcool.gif .

 

I really need to give Stephen Harris a call and see what he has available, but I must admit I'm so nervous of talking to people I don't know on the phoneicon_redface.gif , apart from direct family I never seem to use the phone, geuss that is down to conversing via the internet nowadays.

 

Cheers

Trevor.

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Seeing your excellent 4mm stuff, i hate too think what you could do in 2mmsmile.gif

 

That's very kind of you Trevor!

 

It would be interesting to know how much impact Easitrac has had on converting people to 2mm, I for one would probably just of had my Farish cl37 & Warship sat on the shelf if it hadn't come along.

 

Easitrac could well tempt me back at some point, though with Thomas and Botanic Gardens will I doubt I'll be able to start a new scale for some time! :lol:

 

Also the 2mm Association shop has everything to make it so much easier, they will also have drop in wheelsets for diesels from Januarycool.gif

 

The drop in wheelsets deserve to be very popular! If someone produces sets like Neil Balantine used to do for the new generation of Farish and Dapol steam locos, I think any more people would be tempted to move from N to 2mm FS.

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Todays update!

 

No further progress on my search for a prototype for the goods shed, so the sidigs have not been laid as yet. But that wasn't a problem and It gave me the chance to start fitting the Tortoise point motors. These are fitted in my normal way and not too disimilar on how Bryn has done his, although his are a lot posher with his been adjustablesmile.gif . http://www.rmweb.co....__fromsearch__1

 

As mentioned earlier I fixed nickel silver wire to the point blades, which drop through the baseboard and connect to the point motors. In larger scales it is easy to solder these to the sides of the blades, but in 2mm their Is'nt as much area to solder too, I opted for 0.5mm rod and with a bit of tidying up their is enough clearance for the wheel flanges.

post-6909-12624703430198_thumb.jpg

 

The next job was to fit the Tortoise adaptor plates, these are a really simple/clever idea available from Exactoscale and are only about a fiver for a pack of five, they have got me out of a few tricky corners in the past when the Tortoise wouldn't fit into the available space and again have proved their worth today.

 

The Tortoises and adaptor plates were from an old 7mm layout I once had, so a saving was made on outlaying for new ones, problem was I'd opened the holes to fit a larger gauge piano wire, so when fitting the original piano wire it was too sloppy and just didn't work, so I opted for something in between.

 

First job was too fit two pieces of 1/16" brass tube in the slider bar these would go up through the base board and sit about 1mm below trackbase, then the 0.5mm rod fitted to the point blades would fit inside the tube. With the brass rod'd ID been about 0.9mm, this gave it a bit of play which was good as I wanted to have a bit of sideplay and not put all the pressure on the 0.5mm rod which would be the most fragile point of the operation.

post-6909-12624728392596_thumb.jpg

 

Before fitting the Tortoise motors I always elongate the the screw mounting slots, this allows the Tortoise too have about 2mm of sideplay adjustment, which is helpful in getting the points blades in a central posistion, I have also made the hole in the slider bar a bit oversize to give me a touch more play, although this would probably not be needed if using the original piano wire as it is quite flexible.

post-6909-12624733742661_thumb.jpg

 

Another problem I had was the lack of space available to fit the Tortoises, due to the baseboards been at different levels. Thankfully before starting baseboard construction I glued the Templot trackplan down, this gave me the chance to workout where the point motors could be fitted and where the baseboard bearers could go.

 

But even then I knew a couple would not fit in the normal way and instead of been able to fit the Tortoises to the side of the point with the slider, they would have to be fitted directly over the point itself.

 

I got around this by shortening the slider bar so it operates inside the base, this also required lengthening the slot in the adaptor base, an easy modification.

post-6909-12624741972004_thumb.jpg

 

And finally a shot of the baseboard with the trail of Tortoises fitted.

post-6909-12624742781633_thumb.jpg

 

Just got to remember when I get to the ballasting stage to remove them all, otherwise the PVA will get into every moving partrolleyes.gif

 

Trevor.

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Hi Trevor,

 

Ref to:-

 

"No further progress on my search for a prototype for the goods shed,"

 

Have you decided if the layout is to be ex LNWR or ex GWR in N Wales?

 

Then the rest of us know what sort of goods shed you are looking for.....

 

Thanks

 

Hi Phil,

 

It's South Wales, but actual location is still undecidedsad.gif

 

I have thought of ex LNWR somewhere out of Swansea, Taff Vale around Cardiff, ex GWR would be the easiest but everyones done GWR.

 

This has always been my problem with not doing something prototypical, I seem to end up doing a lot more searching for ideas, where as a prototype has it all their for you. Before starting I had two actual locations I wanted to do, but felt for a first attempt in this scale I wouldn't do them justice.

 

Apologies for being so vauge.

 

Trevor

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Top work Mr Hale,

 

I do like the simplified method of putting a screw through the Tortoise and the Exacto base, I'm not too keen on the nut and bolt method suggested in the instructions. It's all coming together quite nicely now, keep that ball rolling.

 

I've just seen your Presflo on Kier's site and it looks spot on mate, any more stock on the go?

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Well Trev, what can I say? It's South Wales in the late 60's in 2mm finescale - it's right up my street! I'll be keeping a close watch on this.

 

What's your views on motive power? There's no doubt that the new Bachmann stuff is a massive step up from the Farish days but I still think there's room for improvement. I've been scrutinising the new 37 recently, the body on the whole is nice but I'm pretty certain that they've made the same errors with the headcode box as the 4mm one. The D lights seem a bit big as well, but I wonder if that's to do with the limitations of the moulding process. Perhaps some new resin ones are on the cards. Lowering it helps a lot too.

 

I think there's a lot of scope for 2mm in the future, so much so I've been musing with Bryn about my 'magnum opus'. It's far too early to say anything yet, but the current thinking would allow me to include a model of yourself at one end... wink.gif

 

Pix

 

 

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Top work Mr Hale,

 

I do like the simplified method of putting a screw through the Tortoise and the Exacto base, I'm not too keen on the nut and bolt method suggested in the instructions. It's all coming together quite nicely now, keep that ball rolling.

 

I've just seen your Presflo on Kier's site and it looks spot on mate, any more stock on the go?

 

Thanks Bryn,

 

I've never understood the reasoning of using small nuts n bolts either, it seems to be a lot of extra work and I found that by just elongating the slots, you get the side adjustment for fine tuning to throw the blades evenly.

 

Latest progress on the layout has included tweeking the points, so now stock is running a lot more smoother, I've also fitted the droppers ready for wiring, although at this time the work has stalled as the skies have been throwing down white stuff for the past few hours, so can't see me been down their tonight.

 

I went on Kier's site New Years day as he had said he was putting some updates up of his new layout "Hornsey Broadway" and I was suprised to see the Presflo on their, especially it been only 2mm on a site dedicated too 4mm!

 

The kit was a joy to put together, which was suprising been the complexity of the prototype, but as with all the 2mm Association kits so far (touch wood), they seem too of been well thought and go together really well. I'm tempted to have a go at the coke wagon as that would fit in with the layout nicely.

 

I have about a dozen wagons on the go at the moment, basicaly some vans, 21t hoppers (NGS), highfits, grampi, etc. but have just had adelivery of some more 2mm Association chassis's to get some more kits goingsmile.gif Will also have to contact Stephen Harris, so hopefully will have some of his range, especially the minerals, also thought of trying some of the Fencehouses 21t hoppers, the NGS ones are ok but I think I'd prefer the brass version and it'll have a bit more weight to it.

 

On the subject of weight do you add anything to your wagons? or do you find them ok as they are.

 

Cheers

Trevor.

 

ps. any progress your way.

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Well Trev, what can I say? It's South Wales in the late 60's in 2mm finescale - it's right up my street! I'll be keeping a close watch on this.

 

What's your views on motive power? There's no doubt that the new Bachmann stuff is a massive step up from the Farish days but I still think there's room for improvement. I've been scrutinising the new 37 recently, the body on the whole is nice but I'm pretty certain that they've made the same errors with the headcode box as the 4mm one. The D lights seem a bit big as well, but I wonder if that's to do with the limitations of the moulding process. Perhaps some new resin ones are on the cards. Lowering it helps a lot too.

 

I think there's a lot of scope for 2mm in the future, so much so I've been musing with Bryn about my 'magnum opus'. It's far too early to say anything yet, but the current thinking would allow me to include a model of yourself at one end... wink.gif

 

Pix

 

 

 

Hi Pix,

 

Nice to see you on hearsmile.gif hopefully I won't dissapoint.

 

I still have a problem with location, the area will be urban grot and I know exactly how the layout of what/where all the buildings will be, the problem is I wanted to add a small goods shed but I just can't find anything suitable, they all seem to be the larger ones and I'm starting to wonder if they actually had anything, so this is holding me back a bit at the moment.

 

My feelings on the Bach/Farish loco's are probably very similar to yourself, infact the other day I was trying to find that shot of the cl37 you did. As you suggest the Bach/Far model has the same failings as it's big brother, the headcode box i can probably accept as my eyesight is not that good, but the D lights to me are the biggest let down been far too large, but as you mention it could be down to the limitations in the moulding process. Do you think their is a opening for the resin noses, I know the 4mm ones were well worth the effort, still owe you by the way, I will be adding the handrails and lamp brackets to suit my chosen prototypes, along with repainting the yellow, but otherwise N gauge has taken a massive leap forward in the last few yearssmile.gif

 

My other traction for the layout is:

cl08, hopefully I can get it running a bit slower and smoother than what it is.

cl14, looking forward to this one

cl35, have a GSY one which is OK, but not 100% sure about the front end so have left the BFY for now.

cl37s, as mentioned and the signature loco for the area.

cl42, I have two of these to do but would like to do an NBL & 803-12 version, so a few bits to do.

cl47, I'm happy with this one and once lowered I think it'll make a nice model.

 

We just need a decent Western and some cl25's nowtongue.gif

 

I nearly posted that picture of me in 1972, but realised that would give the game away, are you seriously planning to do a layout on that said stationrolleyes.gif blink.gif icon_drool.gif

 

Trevor

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Nice to see you on hearsmile.gif hopefully I won't dissapoint.

 

Thanks Trev - I tend to lurk quite a lot at the moment as I'm (meant to be) revising for my first set of finals.

 

My feelings on the Bach/Farish loco's are probably very similar to yourself, infact the other day I was trying to find that shot of the cl37 you did.

 

I've got a feeling the photo is buried in the old forum which I think is down at the moment. I'll have a dig about on my hard drive and see if I've still got the snaps.

 

As you suggest the Bach/Far model has the same failings as it's big brother, the headcode box i can probably accept as my eyesight is not that good, but the D lights to me are the biggest let down been far too large, but as you mention it could be down to the limitations in the moulding process. Do you think their is a opening for the resin noses

 

Once Roath is done and I'm ready to really get my teeth into a 2mm project I will really look into doing new ends. The headcode box should be quite easy to move down but I think that the best option for the D lights would be to etch some surrounds for the master and make a new recess behind it. I guess they're a tricky thing to do as they're quite small on the real thing, which is magnified 148 times in N.

 

I know the 4mm ones were well worth the effort, still owe you by the way, I will be adding the handrails and lamp brackets to suit my chosen prototypes, along with repainting the yellow

 

Don't worry about the dosh for now - I'm sure our paths will cross in the next couple of months at somepoint. I still need to work out how to mount the lamp brackets on mine, although I'm lucky as most of my prototype had lost 3 of the 4 by '71.

 

cl08, hopefully I can get it running a bit slower and smoother than what it is.

 

There's always the association kit... wink.gif

 

cl35, have a GSY one which is OK, but not 100% sure about the front end so have left the BFY for now.

 

The profile around the middle looks a little rounded to me but I've never handeled one up close. Having the wheels reprofiled would probably help the looks no end as they look very Lima-pizza-cutterish, as would replacing the glazing to get rid of those windscreen whipers. What's the running like?

 

cl42, I have two of these to do but would like to do an NBL & 803-12 version, so a few bits to do.

 

They sounds tasty! Doing all the roof variations could be fun - I chickened out and went for 821 so getting hold of reference photo would be a lot simpler. The Farish one does look very nice, there's one in Antics at the moment which keeps singing to me.

 

We just need a decent Western and some cl25's nowtongue.gif

 

Can't agree more. Sadly I think the 25 will just be scaled down from the 4mm one (like the 24) but I think there might be something in using the cabs off the old 25/3 with some improved details. Still looking forward to getting my mits on a couple anyway.

 

I nearly posted that picture of me in 1972, but realised that would give the game away, are you seriously planning to do a layout on that said stationrolleyes.gif blink.gif icon_drool.gif

 

Not all of it - I don't think I'd have the commitment or impetus to do something quite of that scale! A bit of playing on GoogleEarth and looking at old OS maps has made me think about doing the east approach from where the Valley lines cross over the main upto the tips of the platforms, using the Central Hotel as a scenic break. To scale is around 15' by 2' so it's not massive, but it's still a large undertaking. Although if I were to extend it another couple of foot I could include the station building which would be impressive. The big hole at the moment for me is the lack of decent RTR Mk.1s and 2s, if they occur then I could be in trouble...

 

Pix

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Once Roath is done and I'm ready to really get my teeth into a 2mm project I will really look into doing new ends. The headcode box should be quite easy to move down but I think that the best option for the D lights would be to etch some surrounds for the master and make a new recess behind it. I guess they're a tricky thing to do as they're quite small on the real thing, which is magnified 148 times in N.

 

I did very small ones for my Farish 40 splitbox nose, but decided against it on the old 37 noses so they'd sit alongside the standard Farish end. However, new model, new standards. It can be done. Their sand filler recess on the side isn't so great either.

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ps. love the planning and work you've put into your thread.

 

Trevor - Thanks - Must admit, the new blog format has grown on me as the indexing allows instant access to previous posts without having to trawl back through threads - it also now gives a little structure to my postings.

 

Really enjoying seeing your layout progess, and just found the presflo kit Bryn was refering to - very nice work indeed.

 

Keep up the great work - its very inspirational :icon_thumbsup2:

 

Pete

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I've got a feeling the photo is buried in the old forum which I think is down at the moment. I'll have a dig about on my hard drive and see if I've still got the snaps.

 

 

Trevor - Sorry to jump in on your thread, but if you [Pix] can find that pic of the 37 I would also be interested to see and hear how you lowered it as it made a significant improvement. TIA - Pete

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