Rabs Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Looking good! Assuming that you are usign Windows, you take a screenshot by pressing the Print Screen button on your keyboard. This puts the image in the clipboard, and you can then Edit/Paste or Ctrl-V, to put it into whatever image editor you like. Alternatively in Sketchup you select File/Export/2D image. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Thank You Rads. Here's the better quality pictures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Looking good. One thing to be aware of is getting flat faces truly flat. In sketchup is it easy to deform a polygon slightly so that it is no longer flat. This results in diagonal lines across the surface, as you have on your cab sides. This means that the surface has been split into separate faces at slightly different angles. This in turn means that you can't do actions like extrusion on the face, because it is now more than one face. You can avoid this by making sure that when you draw the outline you draw it on a single flat surface. For example, for your cab sides I would draw a rectangle of the correct height and length to fully enclose the shape. In your case that would be the full height and from the buffer beam to the back of the cab. By starting with sketchup's built in rectangle you can be sure that it is a flat surface. I would then draw on the diagonal lines starting above and below the buffer beam and delete the excess material in the corners. Internal features like the windows can also be drawn onto the shape and then deleted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 I did exactly as you described. When I was doing my final detailing something happened and I got all those criss-crossing lines. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Something else to be sure of if you want this to print is that all the surfaces are oriented in the same way. It seems one side is purple and the other white. You need all purple to the outside, and white to the inside (or vice versa). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 I'm redoing it because I don't know what was the mistake I made with the first one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted November 7, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2012 In Blender you would invert the normals of any faces that were the "wrong" way round. No idea if Sketchup has a similar command. Shouldn't need to re-draw things. On Rabs point about deforming polygons - does Sketchup have snaps to lock to x/y/z axis? That way you can constrain extrusions (push/pull?) to a particular plane. Cheers, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Here's what I am re-doing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 Something else to be sure of if you want this to print is that all the surfaces are oriented in the same way. It seems one side is purple and the other white. You need all purple to the outside, and white to the inside (or vice versa). Thanks. I hadn't know it if you did'nt point it out. I re-did the entire thing. Here's how it looks now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 On Rabs point about deforming polygons - does Sketchup have snaps to lock to x/y/z axis? That way you can constrain extrusions (push/pull?) to a particular plane. It does - hold the shift key when moving parts and it will constrain the motion to the current direction. It also snaps motion to nearby axes or perpendicular/parallel lines. It usually works well but sometimes you have to move the view to persuade it to snap to the right thing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Half painted example. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Boar Fell Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Hello Jeremiah, Well done with the design work its looking good, especially for a first project. Just thought I would lend a hand, you have drawn the outside skin of the cab, but in order for the print to work you need to draw an inside too, this is because at the minute the printer would see it as a collection of 2D shapes, rather than 3D. One fairly easy way of doing this is to draw a scaled down cab shape inside the cab leaving about a 1mm gap between the outside wall and the inside wall (this could be less depending on the material you are planning on using, then join inside shape upto the outside so that all of what is visible is white and inside the model (not inside the cab) is blue. Secondly, save the painted file as a different file to your working drawing (you may have done this already), as I have found that sketch up can get confused with the interior/ exterior colours if you add others to the file you wish to upload. (If your printing file is saved with colours, the use the no fill tool on the paint bucket to recolour them). Hope this helps and good luck with the project! Regards, Wild Boar Fell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I am new to this forum, and also new to 3D modelling, having started about 2 months ago. While I don't want to discourage anyone from 3D modelling, I would just like to say that is would not be that hard to model the curves of this particular locomotive in styrene, particularly if it is only a 1-off model. The "classic" method would be to build up layers of styrene (say 0.5 mm thick) based on "slices" of the curved shape, then scrape with a sharp knife (with the blade at 90 degrees to the styrene) to remove the extra styrene back to the desired curved profile. If the slices are fairly accurate, you just need to scrap back until the grooves disappear and you will be pretty close to the correct shape. Minor imperfections can be filled with modelling putty and finished with fine sandpaper. As there are large "flattish" surfaces, you can also fabricate these from flat pieces of styrene, and glue in extra thickness on the inside of the corners to allow the curved corners to be shaped as above. I have used the layering approach in the past to build curved roof profiles and also a Belpaire firebox for a steam loco. Vacuum forming would also work and does produce quite a strong shell (e.g. in 1 mm styrene) but it does need special equipment and skills. I have several models on my layout made by vacuum forming but I have not done it myself (and I don't have any plans to), but it does work well for certain shapes, particularly rounded corners. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Hmmm! Yes we all know that is possible. But my plan is changed that's why I have a different cab. The initial plan was a WDP-4B and the new one is a WDP-4. But thanks anyways. When I do want to make a WDP-4B I would resort to scraping. BTW can scraping be done on resin? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.