RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 12, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 12, 2012 (edited) Hi everyone I keep getting questions about the "technique" so I hope the attached makes sense.... If it doesn't make sense shout!! Edited September 1, 2022 by Barry O added title 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 (edited) Nothing wrong at all with those techniques, but I'd also say 'be aware of what you're weathering'.... that rusty coach side is actually made of wood. (Ed - which I'm sure the OP knew, but you still see wagons with rusty wooden sides or solebars). Edited November 12, 2012 by jwealleans 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 12, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 12, 2012 (edited) I know its a piece of Ian Kirk O gauge Gresley wooden paneled stock so it should be teak, crimson and cream or red but hey ho its a good size to use as a demo piece. I do ensure wood doesn't get the full rust treatment but do wash down off metal work onto wooden bodies - its that bloke Newton and his gravity again Edited August 8, 2022 by Barry O 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 16, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 16, 2012 Apologies - missed out a couple of important bits: 1 Try to get good quality colour photos of the loco/stock you are weathering - this helps 2 Tap off surplus powder into a large box ( I use an O gauge coach kit lid) - that way you can re-use powder - if you think Yorkies are tight with dosh then Durham lads after 25 years in Yorks can really show how to be tight(!) And please - try to avoid bright colours - it is rare to see these in real life - most of the locos I can remember (Q6, J27, WD) were greasy and never cleaned by West Hartlepool Shed - but didn't have anything bright in colour on them apart from wheel treads) Hope this helps 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Some good techniques..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 couple of loco's Barry weathered for me at Warley, straight out of the box Bachmann. ROD.. Super D 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 3, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 3, 2012 (edited) Nice photos Mike nearly exactly like the loco photos in the book! (Photos Copyright Mike Delamar) ROD G2 Edited August 8, 2022 by Barry O 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlw Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Barry, Could you please remind me what you said to do if the model still has some release agent left on it and the ink pools? Thanks Carl 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 14, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 14, 2012 Barry, Could you please remind me what you said to do if the model still has some release agent left on it and the ink pools? Thanks Carl Carl either 1 continue to work with the ink and water - the water washes away the release agent or 2 if it is really bad a quick scrub up with some washing up liquid/cif seems to work Most of the time method 1 gets the job done Hope this helps Barry 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Hi Barry! Watched you demo-ing at the NEC and was impressed with both your technique and your patience! That gresley coach side's seen some action... Can the same methods be used to apply lighter coloured weathering on to darker panelling? I have some 7mm scale Ex LBSCR BR southern green coaches and will need to apply the usual assorted brake dust/soot colours. I fancy trying the methods you use but not sure what the best starting point would be. The coach sides are varnished with a mix of satin and gloss biased towards the gloss as Ryde (IOW) coachpainters were quite particular about their finish in steam days! The coaches were well scrubbed but as time went on they gathered a lot of dirt in the crevices and on the beading but the middle of the panels still had a bit of a sheen. It's that look I'd like to replicate but as I said I'm not sure where to start. Cheers Jon Fitness 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 17, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2012 Hi Jon apologies I missed your post yes you can use the same approach - in this instance use a paint brush to put a little ink/water mix around the edges of the panels/ door openings use the soft sponge to make sure its around the panel edges - let it dry and then use the weathering powders (not too much) on the whole of the coach body - you can then remove any in the centre of the panels using a cotton wool bud with some water on it to wash the powder away - normally I would just leave the powder as is and let time and motion get rid of the powder from the centre of the panels I will try and do a Gresley panel and photo it to give you a bit more help Barry 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium southern42 Posted December 17, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2012 Hi Barry! Watched you demo-ing at the NEC and was impressed with both your technique and your patience! That gresley coach side's seen some action... .... Just to let you all know that's my Warley 2012 Toad in the foreground on that ther workbench in Barry's avatar. I've reworked the roof. Just waiting for the Christmas holiday to do the rest of it. Will post a pic or two here when it's done. A very valuable Warley demo, Barry. Excellent idea to follow up with this thread, too. I must keep an eye on this one. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 17, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2012 No problem and thanks for the photo! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 Hi Jon apologies I missed your post yes you can use the same approach - in this instance use a paint brush to put a little ink/water mix around the edges of the panels/ door openings use the soft sponge to make sure its around the panel edges - let it dry and then use the weathering powders (not too much) on the whole of the coach body - you can then remove any in the centre of the panels using a cotton wool bud with some water on it to wash the powder away - normally I would just leave the powder as is and let time and motion get rid of the powder from the centre of the panels I will try and do a Gresley panel and photo it to give you a bit more help Barry Thanks Barry, I'll keep an eye out for it! Cheers JF 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 22, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 22, 2012 Jon waiting for some light to get some shots but 1 Use ink/water on a soft fine paint brush around the edges of the panel. 2 Add powder ( black) around the edges while the ink is still wet 3 Let it all dry then blow off the powder you don't need 4 Polish the centre of the panel with a cotton wool bud with a little water - take off any excess powder and shine up the varnished centre with a dry cotton wool bud to get the right affect I've got it done just haven't enough Daylight(!) to get decent shots 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Thanks Barry, My local modelshop has some Tamiya powders in stock so I'm going to give it a go over xmas. It'll be more fun than the telly.... Jon F. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Williams Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Barry, are we talking Indian Ink here or 'bog standard' drawing ink? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 23, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2012 Steve currently I am using Rotring ink for Black and a variety of Windsor and Newton drawing inks ( and others) for browns, greens etc. I buy them at my local artist shop. best regards Barry 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Williams Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Thanks Barry. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 23, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2012 Apologies for the focus on the attached (camera having a pre-Christmas wobble!) - its for Jon Fitness - its just about good enough to show the way to do just the edges of a coach panel Once I have sorted the camera I will add a new photo 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 23, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) I have recently completed Carlisle gas Works No1 - hopefully this shot is OK I had a good photo of the subject and used powder added to wet ink to get the sides and top "greasy oil" Edited November 18, 2022 by Barry O 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsrail Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Hello Barry, Just had a read through this and was wondering, because i've never used inks, powders or the two combined.....does this seal with a coat of matt varnish ? or does the ink make it pretty much permanent anyway please ? Thanks Terry. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 23, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2012 Hello Terry I don't seal them as whatever varnish i have tried it changes the effects. By leaving it "loose" the weathering changes with time - until the ink stays on the bits which didn't get too dirty and the powder sticks to the ink where it should do ( ie where we can't get our grubby mits on!) If you add the powder to wet ink it produces a surface finish which you can feel and doesn't rub off for some time ( I have stock I weathered 20 years ago at the first Warley NEC show and it hasn't needed a reweather yet.) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redsrail Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Thanks for the tip Barry. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlw Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 (edited) Hi, Having watched Barry and be allowed to have a go with his help i decided its time to have a go. So off to Hobbycraft for some inks and armed with the powders that Barry recommended at Warley i dug out one of my old American wagons. I thought that after watching one of Monster railroads videos on hand painted graffiti. I would add have a go at that using just normal artist acrylic paints, so i found a picture of some graffiti on this type of car on the net and tried to copy, it didnt come out exactly the same but im no artist. I think this has turned out ok http://www.flickr.com/photos/16445093@N03/4305686944/ What do you think of the results? Edited December 24, 2012 by carlw 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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