Clem Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Talking about articulated carriages, why did the LNER use them so much? The simple answer is that Gresely became CME of the LNER and he had already used them successfully on the GNR. It was found that a simple and cheap solution of dealing with that companies ageing fleet of six wheelers was to convert them into articulated sets. This vastly improved the riding of these carriages and extended their service life. The principal reason for continue with articulation on the LNER was for the same reason, they rode better than conventional carriages. On the matter of length, many of the LNER non gangway twins were longer than the equivalent non articulated, non gangway carriages. Just by pure chance, diag 210 twin BT(6) - CL (2-5), seen in the photo below, is intended to be my next build. They were 55' 6 3/4'' over the body compared to 51' 1 1/2'' for the standard non gangway stock of the type produced by Hornby. Hopefully, I shall do my utmost not to build it wonky. The photo shows a York B16/1 heading north from Woodford to Nottingham, with one of New Basfords non gangway sets. The Thompson CL (carriage 3 in the formation) has already been constructed, and is up on this thread somewhere many pages back. Morning Andrew, I've long been a fan of the D210s, the 55'6" articulated twins that were used mainly by the GN lines in Lincolnshire and Notts. I've built one set so far - out of Ian Kirk kits. Yo need three to do it. A brake third, an 8 compartment third and a 7 compartment first. The main problem doing it this way is matching up the beading which seemed to vary a little on the 3 kits used for components. I've got a small number of Bill Bedford sides for the D210 also, but his earlier ones had an error on the Brake third since corrected. I think it will be much easier doing the Bill Bedford ones but the Kirk ones can give you a reasonable result, too. I've shown this recently so apologies for the re-run. Also apologies for the slightly blurred early version but it shows quite well the different components cut and shut together. The darker section in the middle of the CL is from the full first and is actually 3 pieces - the middle section is 2 complete compartments plus half the window of the next compartment on each side, and the outside two are each made up of a dividing panel and half the window of an adjacent compartment. Outside of them, the third class compartments are made up from parts of the 4 compartment brake third kit. The full third kit makes up the 6 compartments of the brake third with the van section coming from the brake third. Right that's everyone confused now! Finally at this stage of the build, I was still intending to use the Kirk roofs but in the end I opted for MJT roofs. . 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 Great stuff about the artics. Thanks for posting. Some lovely LNER articulated stock was running on LB three months ago............... If you'd like to see this stock (and much, much more), may I suggest you get to Wakefield, please? It'll be on show on Grantham. The LNER articulated stock was long-lived............. I think this pair might well be ex-GNR. And, a pair of the steel-sided artics BTK/TK in an Up express at Eaton Wood. Catering twins RTO/TO, survivors from the pre-War streamliners in an Up express at Peascliffe. Please, keep them coming........................ 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahame Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 And, of course, it's not just coaches/passenger stock that have articulated examples. Here's a cartic 4 car carrying wagon in N/2mm built from a NGS kit (and typically for me is not completed): G. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted November 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2018 Articulated twin sleeping cars. I scratch built these from Plasticard many years ago. ArthurK 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted November 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2018 And of course articulated units have returned to the old eastern region. The first new unit for Anglia from Stadler was delivered last week and the power car in the centre is on two articulated bogies that join it to the adjacent coaches. Jamie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2018 In the spirit of getting away from the dreary but sticking obliquely with H & S Fascinating, incredible to think about what he achieved at such heights, but as far as I am concerned, just thinking about it brings on the collywobbles! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Manxcat Posted November 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2018 "A fairly recently recruited member of our model railway club, called Campbell Russell, has created a very nice layout modelled on the Pass of Killiecrankie. It is modelled in T gauge. He was kind enough to exhibit it on behalf of our club at the Renfrewshire exhibition last weekend. It drew a surprising number of comments and enquiries, all of them very positive." Sounds very interesting - do you have any images of this layout? Ben, Here is the only image I currently have of The Pass of Killiecrankie. You can just make out the HST set. It has a motor in both driving ends plus one in the buffet car. Like most T gauge stock, the wheels are magnetic for better adhesion on the tiny steel rails. The photo was taken at one of its later visits to the art exhibition. In front of it you can see some of the photographs taken by Campbell as the build progressed to illustrate the various stages to viewers. At the Renfrewshire show there was a supply of Alan Ramsay's business cards for his T gauge business in front of the layout. Why? Because they have a plastic magnifying lens in the middle to allow anyone picking one up to get a closer look! 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headstock Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) Andrew May I suggest you have your own build thread ? It would make it much easier for everybody to look at your excellent builds. Thanks Mick, I'm wary of starting a thread, I suspect that it would gobble up far too much time if it was to be done properly, and have a negative effect on actual modelling output. Besides, Wright Writes is the coolest place to be. Morning Andrew, I've long been a fan of the D210s, the 55'6" articulated twins that were used mainly by the GN lines in Lincolnshire and Notts. I've built one set so far - out of Ian Kirk kits. Yo need three to do it. A brake third, an 8 compartment third and a 7 compartment first. The main problem doing it this way is matching up the beading which seemed to vary a little on the 3 kits used for components. I've got a small number of Bill Bedford sides for the D210 also, but his earlier ones had an error on the Brake third since corrected. I think it will be much easier doing the Bill Bedford ones but the Kirk ones can give you a reasonable result, too. I've shown this recently so apologies for the re-run. Also apologies for the slightly blurred early version but it shows quite well the different components cut and shut together. The darker section in the middle of the CL is from the full first and is actually 3 pieces - the middle section is 2 complete compartments plus half the window of the next compartment on each side, and the outside two are each made up of a dividing panel and half the window of an adjacent compartment. Outside of them, the third class compartments are made up from parts of the 4 compartment brake third kit. The full third kit makes up the 6 compartments of the brake third with the van section coming from the brake third. Right that's everyone confused now! Finally at this stage of the build, I was still intending to use the Kirk roofs but in the end I opted for MJT roofs. . Afternoon Clem, your diag 210 is a cracking model, very creative. They were very attractive and distinctive, with the double double toilet blocks, a reasonable size van area and lots of compartments. The kind of thing a smart modeller would put on one of those Wishy washey lists in preference to flipping quads. Mine is a brass kit, not Bedford, it was ordered some years back when a friend ordered two for himself. I know little about it, apart from it being a superb set of etches that requires MJT parts to complete, and it came from France. I'm just waiting for some parts from Dart casting and it will be out with the heat stick and off we go. Edited November 17, 2018 by Headstock 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted November 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) HELP! I’m stuck building a high level gearbox which I’m hoping is going to allow me to convert my tender drive kit built V4 into loco drive. I’m taking it to see Tony next week for some help scratchbuilding valve gear, but would like to have it running poroperly first. The gearbox is designed to fit in the firebox vertically driving the rear axle. Anyway, the problem is that the worm gear provided with the gearbox kit is a very sloppy fit on the CCT/ John Isherwood motor which I’m hoping to provide the drive. The motor has a drive shaft of 1.5mm whereas the worm gear hole seem to have a diameter of c.1.85mm? The Mashimas I have in stock also seem to have 1.5mm shafts. So my question is ‘ do I glue the worm gear onto the shaft with all that slop, or should I be using a different sort of worm gear?’ Thanks in advance for any help. Andy Edited November 17, 2018 by thegreenhowards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Contact High Level they do a 1.5mm worm, it sounds like you have duff one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) Contact High Level they do a 1.5mm worm, it sounds like you have duff one. Certainly contact Highlevel - Chris is very helpful. I find the worms, nominally for either 1,5 or 2mm shafts, are usually tight and need careful reaming, so I suspect you may have an undersized 2mm. Edited November 17, 2018 by rowanj Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2018 Yes, they are usually a tight fit, I'm sure Chris will get you another one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 HELP! I’m stuck building a high level gearbox which I’m hoping is going to allow me to convert my tender drive kit built V4 into loco drive. I’m taking it to see Tony next week for some help scratchbuilding valve gear, but would like to have it running poroperly first. The gearbox is designed to fit in the firebox vertically driving the rear axle. Anyway, the problem is that the worm gear provided with the gearbox kit is a very sloppy fit on the CCT/ John Isherwood motor which I’m hoping to provide the drive. The motor has a drive shaft of 1.5mm whereas the worm gear hole seem to have a diameter of c.1.85mm? The Mashimas I have in stock also seem to have 1.5mm shafts. So my question is ‘ do I glue the worm gear onto the shaft with all that slop, or should I be using a different sort of worm gear?’ Thanks in advance for any help. Andy12752B30-4614-484A-A868-EF89CA245571.jpeg Scratch-building valve gear? That's news to me. I haven't scratch-built a set of valve gear for must be nigh-on 40 years! I'll have to dig out my Jamieson frets, unless you have an etched set, Andy? See you next week. Regards, Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted November 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2018 Good morning Andy, A challenge? Fix a time up in the future and I'll help you make a set of motion. I've got lots of spares/frets which will be suitable. Regards, Tony. Tony, I probably got the wrong end of the stick when I said ‘scratchbuilding’. I was remembering the post above which followed on from comments about how the old Hornby valve gear on my V4 is pretty horrible. Is this still on? If so do you need me to bring some bits? I can raid various kits to get some valve gear bits - V2, B1, 02. Regards Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 (edited) Great stuff about the artics. Thanks for posting. Some lovely LNER articulated stock was running on LB three months ago............... Trains running 03 ROBERT THE DEVIL on Down express.jpg Trains running 05 ROBERT THE DEVIL on Down express.jpg Trains running 30 D3 on local.jpg Trains running 41 Klondike.jpg If you'd like to see this stock (and much, much more), may I suggest you get to Wakefield, please? It'll be on show on Grantham. The LNER articulated stock was long-lived............. artics 01.jpg I think this pair might well be ex-GNR. artics 02.jpg And, a pair of the steel-sided artics BTK/TK in an Up express at Eaton Wood. artics 03.jpg Catering twins RTO/TO, survivors from the pre-War streamliners in an Up express at Peascliffe. Please, keep them coming........................ Hi Tony, I seem to remember seeing articulated stock running south towards Irvine about sixty years ago. I wonder if the LMS used artics, or were these from another region on their way to be scrapped at Troon? Pretty much unrelated, other than I happened to see the artics from my grandparent's house in Irvine, three of our grandchildren will be here in a bit over a month and I'm trying to crank-out some track so they can see a bit of grandpa's railway actually working. My initial plan was to use the tried and tested rail soldered to copper-clad for the turnouts, but that was before I stumbled into 3-D printing. My 3-D printer is now running most of the day to try to catch up. Here is a turnout with matching track panel. Andy Edited November 18, 2018 by AndyID 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 18, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2018 (edited) The LMS had several sets of articulated stock from local slam door stock through to the super trains for the Coronation Scot. No region of the MMS particularly seemed to like them, the LNER banned the corridor stock from most of their lines(!). They used standard bogie on a much redesigned lightweight undergrad. Comet do kits for the standard corridor stock. Baz Edited November 18, 2018 by Barry O Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Re Artics a couple of photos of my Silver Jubilee Set , lots more photos of the builds on my workbench thread, from page 1. 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Sim Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 I made an articulated set out of Hornby coaches and an MJT bogie. It has been painted now, this photo was taken a few months back. Still need to clean up where I cut the buffers off. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted November 18, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2018 HELP! I’m stuck building a high level gearbox which I’m hoping is going to allow me to convert my tender drive kit built V4 into loco drive. I’m taking it to see Tony next week for some help scratchbuilding valve gear, but would like to have it running poroperly first. The gearbox is designed to fit in the firebox vertically driving the rear axle. Anyway, the problem is that the worm gear provided with the gearbox kit is a very sloppy fit on the CCT/ John Isherwood motor which I’m hoping to provide the drive. The motor has a drive shaft of 1.5mm whereas the worm gear hole seem to have a diameter of c.1.85mm? The Mashimas I have in stock also seem to have 1.5mm shafts. So my question is ‘ do I glue the worm gear onto the shaft with all that slop, or should I be using a different sort of worm gear?’ Thanks in advance for any help. Andy12752B30-4614-484A-A868-EF89CA245571.jpeg Are you sure that shaft is 1.5mm? Looks like it could be smaller although I am not familiar with motor. ArthurK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markeg Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 It is the Mitsumi motor from China. I have half a dozen. They are definitely 1.5mm. Mark in Oz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 18, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2018 and lo.. an ex LMS articulated pair.. Comet kit Bodged by me Baz 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted November 18, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2018 Are you sure that shaft is 1.5mm? Looks like it could be smaller although I am not familiar with motor. ArthurK Thanks Arthur, but Markeg is right and I checked it with my digital callipers. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 I made an articulated set out of Hornby coaches and an MJT bogie. It has been painted now, this photo was taken a few months back. Still need to clean up where I cut the buffers off. 8E6130AC-68A6-4542-A7B6-665A5486C337.jpeg Very nice looking set. Could you please tell / show us how the two coach bodies "sit" on the central bogie. Brit15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2018 Anyway, the problem is that the worm gear provided with the gearbox kit is a very sloppy fit on the CCT/ John Isherwood motor which I’m hoping to provide the drive. The motor has a drive shaft of 1.5mm whereas the worm gear hole seem to have a diameter of c.1.85mm? The Mashimas I have in stock also seem to have 1.5mm shafts. So my question is ‘ do I glue the worm gear onto the shaft with all that slop, or should I be using a different sort of worm gear?’ Is it possible that you have inadvertently obtained/been sent a worm with a 2mm shaft? Knowing the excellence of Chris's products and customer service, that seems to be to be the most likely cause. At any rate, a quick call or e-mail to Chris will no doubt result in him sending you a replacement worm with a 1.5mm shaft. It will no doubt pay you to make clear what gear ratio you are using with your gearbox. I had cause to request a replacement worm from Chris recently and it arrived very quickly indeed. He is an excellent fellow. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 Tony, I probably got the wrong end of the stick when I said ‘scratchbuilding’. I was remembering the post above which followed on from comments about how the old Hornby valve gear on my V4 is pretty horrible. Is this still on? If so do you need me to bring some bits? I can raid various kits to get some valve gear bits - V2, B1, 02. Regards Andy Sorry Andy, I really should remember what I posted. It was your term 'scratch-building' which threw me. Don't worry, I've got plenty of spare valve gear frets here. Regards, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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