Wright writes.....

[96701]

On 06/02/2019 at 19:50, Tony Wright said:

With my most grateful thanks to Andy York, I'm now inserting (I hope) the second 1958 LB DVD. If you want to know more, may I suggest you buy the current issue of BRM, please? 

 

May I ask, please, if anyone 'likes' it, they make a donation on their own behalf to Cancer Research UK?

 

Many thanks in anticipation.  

 

The road into the goods yard reminds of a time some years ago when i got a call that Little Bytham generator was running at about 20:00. It was of course dark by the time I got there. My son had come along for the ride, and as I swept into the goods yard entrance, I didn't realise that the chap who had leased it had put a chain across the entrance. The people who were standing around outside the Willoughby Arms took a great deal of interest in my Mondeo hitting the chain, flipping it onto the roof and taking off the roof mounted aerial as it scraped over the car from bonnet to boot.  

 

https://www.google.com/maps/uv?hl=en&pb=!1s0x487826d539cf4391:0x43294187795e340b!2m22!2m2!1i80!2i80!3m1!2i20!16m16!1b1!2m2!1m1!1e1!2m2!1m1!1e3!2m2!1m1!1e5!2m2!1m1!1e4!2m2!1m1!1e6!3m1!7e115!4s/maps/place/willoughby%2Barms%2Blittle%2Bbytham/@52.7435945,-0.4924935,3a,75y,25.68h,90t/data%3D*213m4*211e1*213m2*211s0UPkvPzL1KV7chjmZV5sfw*212e0*214m2*213m1*211s0x487826d539cf4391:0x43294187795e340b!5swilloughby+arms+little+bytham+-+Google+Search&imagekey=!1e2!2s0UPkvPzL1KV7chjmZV5sfw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjW7MiT8rTgAhUKQRUIHb8yDf0Qpx8wCnoECAYQCw

 

[St Enodoc]

5 hours ago, 96701 said:

The road into the goods yard reminds of a time some years ago when i got a call that Little Bytham generator was running at about 20:00. It was of course dark by the time I got there. My son had come along for the ride, and as I swept into the goods yard entrance, I didn't realise that the chap who had leased it had put a chain across the entrance. The people who were standing around outside the Willoughby Arms took a great deal of interest in my Mondeo hitting the chain, flipping it onto the roof and taking off the roof mounted aerial as it scraped over the car from bonnet to boot.  

 

https://www.google.com/maps/uv?hl=en&pb=!1s0x487826d539cf4391:0x43294187795e340b!2m22!2m2!1i80!2i80!3m1!2i20!16m16!1b1!2m2!1m1!1e1!2m2!1m1!1e3!2m2!1m1!1e5!2m2!1m1!1e4!2m2!1m1!1e6!3m1!7e115!4s/maps/place/willoughby%2Barms%2Blittle%2Bbytham/@52.7435945,-0.4924935,3a,75y,25.68h,90t/data%3D*213m4*211e1*213m2*211s0UPkvPzL1KV7chjmZV5sfw*212e0*214m2*213m1*211s0x487826d539cf4391:0x43294187795e340b!5swilloughby+arms+little+bytham+-+Google+Search&imagekey=!1e2!2s0UPkvPzL1KV7chjmZV5sfw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjW7MiT8rTgAhUKQRUIHb8yDf0Qpx8wCnoECAYQCw

 

I feel your pain Phil. I once drove into New Cross Gate Yard around midnight in my MG Midget to see to a derailment. All the usual suspects were already there, so I swung round through 90 degrees intending to pull up just in front of them and leap out, ready for action. I pulled up all right - when the sump hit the remains of a telegraph pole sticking up about six inches out of the ground. It took me a long while to live that down - in fact I'm not sure that I ever did.

[jwealleans]

Jesse,

 

Snap!

 

 

Using LRM tenders to make some more is a bit of a pricey way to go - you'd be better off (IMHO) using those with locos like your D2 and making the NuCast one into the carrier.  I have a feeling this one started behind a Stephen Poole E4 which now tows a Gibson tender.  Brass tenders are lighter and (usually) roll more freely, so your loco isn't working so hard to move itself before you hang all your heavy kit built vehicles behind it.

 

Andrew, are you sure all you've done to those sides is use the MJT droplights?  I don't really look at Comet for LNER carriages any more as having built their and the MJT versions of the same carriage side by side, the MJT was greatly superior to my eye.  I find the Comet sides look slightly squat and their beading can be very wide.  Bill's sides can go to the other extreme - beading like razor blades - but they work well with the MJT components and (minor point, but it helps) he etches in the hinge holes for you.  Those are lovely, as i'd expect from you.

 

 

 

 

[jamie92208]

11 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Could Jamie Guest get in touch with me, please?

 

I seem to have 'lost' your email Jamie, and I've tried sending you a PM but I keep on getting 'inbox' full' (despite my having just deleted dozens of messages).

 

The reason is, I had a chat with a chap at Doncaster who'd like to obtain a set of etchings for the MR/M&GNR girder bridge you so kindly designed. I told him it would be courtesy to ask you first before contacting Grainge and Hodder.

 

Many thanks in anticipation,

 

Tony. 

No problem Tony, I'll get in touch.

 

Jamie

[Jesse Sim]

3 hours ago, jwealleans said:

Jesse,

 

Snap!

 

 

Using LRM tenders to make some more is a bit of a pricey way to go - you'd be better off (IMHO) using those with locos like your D2 and making the NuCast one into the carrier.  I have a feeling this one started behind a Stephen Poole E4 which now tows a Gibson tender.  Brass tenders are lighter and (usually) roll more freely, so your loco isn't working so hard to move itself before you hang all your heavy kit built vehicles behind it.

 

Andrew, are you sure all you've done to those sides is use the MJT droplights?  I don't really look at Comet for LNER carriages any more as having built their and the MJT versions of the same carriage side by side, the MJT was greatly superior to my eye.  I find the Comet sides look slightly squat and their beading can be very wide.  Bill's sides can go to the other extreme - beading like razor blades - but they work well with the MJT components and (minor point, but it helps) he etches in the hinge holes for you.  Those are lovely, as i'd expect from you.

 

 

 

 

Well I purchased the 2 kits over 2 years ago as a starting point to kit building, if they turned out horrible I was going to use them for the sludge tenders, but you make a good point. The D2 is at Tony’s at the moment, I think it needs a new chassis, thought I’d let Sir fix it, rather then me break it! 

[Bucoops]

10 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Good evening Rich and apologies.

 

I shall type elsewhere and paste and post. My standard gangway Gresleys are a cross mix between MJT and Hornby. I can get the Hornby carriages cheap enough that the components that I use gives a considerable saving over sourcing the individual items separately. This is despite effectively scrapping the sides and the underframes. Up until the present time I have constructed around about forty five carriages in this manor plus five full MJT builds.

The basis is the MJT floor pan, these are produced in standard, brake and full brake configurations. The Hornby underfame is dimensional incorrect and is far too much work to make it right. I constructed the carriages like a Comet kit rather than the recommended MJT way so that the body separates from the underframes. I started off building full MJT kits, they are very good, not cheap and very heavy. A friend of mine has had a couple running for many years, he had to replace the original white meal bogies because they sagged under the weight. Much of this weight is in the domed roof ends, the carriage ends, the bogies and the angle iron.

 

My problem, bearing in mind I had no experience of such things, was getting a kit built locomotive to haul ten of these behemoths plus a Tavern car up a continuous 1/75 gradient. When the Hornby Gresleys came out, I thought great, problem solved, a simple brass side job. Imagine my disappointment, having bought one, to discover what a pig in a pope it turned out to be. Eventually I decided to experimentally rebuild my unwanted purchase. It turned out to have quite a silver lining as it was virtually indistinguishable from the MJT builds but had a number of advantages. These were in no particular order, a considerable saving in weight, Quicker to build and cheaper to purchase in the first place. In addition, I had established a standard way of doing things so that all my Gresley used an identical set of components and looked like the product of one companies workshops, rather than a hotch potch of different models purporting to be the same type of carriage.

 

I use the MJT Floorpan and inner ends, the underfame components ( the Hornby components such as battery boxes are dimensionally wrong) and some small white metal components such as roof and door ventilators. From the Hornby I use the ends and roof as one unit, the interior, often remodeled, the bogies and the underfame trussing. The latter is remodeled as Hornby cocked up the dimensions here, a bit of brass angle widens out the distance between the queen posts and two cross trusses are soldered to the top of it  to join the narrowed dimensions between the sole bars. This makes the whole thing nice and solid. I reuse some items such as the vac brake cylinder and the extended buffers on the end of brake carriages but some components such as the gangway is so dimensionally hopeless that they are better chucked in the bin. The sides come from almost any manufacturer depending on the diag required, though MJT are the best IMO. Hopefully this little lot will post and will be of some interest to yourself.

 

Very interesting thank you, and no need for apologies - thank you for taking the time to run through. It's interesting that you have used plastic coaches as a donor - I've seen it mentioned of course. I think I had also come to the conclusion that the Comet parts weren't what I want to build - but as I am doing the GE section I am quite limited with regards to choice as I need the gangwayed stock on the 51' underframe. RDEB does a few, as does Worsley.

[Headstock]

2 hours ago, Bucoops said:

 

Very interesting thank you, and no need for apologies - thank you for taking the time to run through. It's interesting that you have used plastic coaches as a donor - I've seen it mentioned of course. I think I had also come to the conclusion that the Comet parts weren't what I want to build - but as I am doing the GE section I am quite limited with regards to choice as I need the gangwayed stock on the 51' underframe. RDEB does a few, as does Worsley.

 

Afternoon Rich,

 

I will use anything that gets the effect I want. For example, the Hornby 8'6'' standard bogie is a superb representation of the prototype, I would be foolish to use anything else, especially if it costs more money for a clunkier finish. If I require an 8'6'' heavy duty bogie, or a fox or other Gresley 8' types, then out comes a kit.

 

I wouldn't build complete Comet kits for Gresley carriages, there are better options for many of the parts but I don't have a problem with using their sides. I have only built one RDEB carriage, I found the beading very clunky. Worsley works look pretty good but I haven't built anything of theirs myself. The crucial thing with getting Gresley carriages to look right is getting the end and roof profiles right, and watch out for manufactures who make a hash of the vertical window and lower panel dimensions, Get a good drawing and shop around as many manufactures don't bother with proper drawings. This is why my preferred way of working is to mix and match from various sources to get things looking right. MJT do a 51' underframe that includes the false ends that are to the correct end profile, stick some Hornby bogies under it, source some sides, MJT roof and cosmetic ends and your are well on your way.

[Headstock]

7 hours ago, jwealleans said:

 

Andrew, are you sure all you've done to those sides is use the MJT droplights?  I don't really look at Comet for LNER carriages any more as having built their and the MJT versions of the same carriage side by side, the MJT was greatly superior to my eye.  I find the Comet sides look slightly squat and their beading can be very wide.  Bill's sides can go to the other extreme - beading like razor blades - but they work well with the MJT components and (minor point, but it helps) he etches in the hinge holes for you.  Those are lovely, as i'd expect from you.

 

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Jonathan,

 

the brake has comet sides on MJT, the compo is MJT only. Nobody etches hinge holes for me, unfortunately. I drill them out and file a slot. I don't have too much of a problem with Comet sides, the beading is a little clunkier than MJT but because the etching is quite deep it doesn't really show on the painted model. I've only used the sides of the end door thirds and the above two brakes from the Comet range, ooh and one compo, the only cross over with the MJT range. I will always use the MJT components if I have the choice.

 

With regard to the drop lights, there is a half etch cusp in the window opening on the comet sides, I file this out, allowing the larger MJT droplights to fit in the opening. It makes a big difference. The Comet sides compo mentioned earlier, lacks the airy appearance of this new build because of the little windows and armor plated droplights. I have moor issues with some of the Bedford sides, obviously working off the same drawings as Kirk. Below is one of the Comet end door thirds, when painted I think that the beading looks fine.

Edited February 12, 2019 by Headstock

[Bucoops]

2 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Afternoon Rich,

 

I will use anything that gets the effect I want. For example, the Hornby 8'6'' standard bogie is a superb representation of the prototype, I would be foolish to use anything else, especially if it costs more money for a clunkier finish. If I require an 8'6'' heavy duty bogie, or a fox or other Gresley 8' types, then out comes a kit.

 

I wouldn't build complete Comet kits for Gresley carriages, there are better options for many of the parts but I don't have a problem with using their sides. I have only built one RDEB carriage, I found the beading very clunky. Worsley works look pretty good but I haven't built anything of theirs myself. The crucial thing with getting Gresley carriages to look right is getting the end and roof profiles right, and watch out for manufactures who make a hash of the vertical window and lower panel dimensions, Get a good drawing and shop around as many manufactures don't bother with proper drawings. This is why my preferred way of working is to mix and match from various sources to get things looking right. MJT do a 51' underframe that includes the false ends that are to the correct end profile, stick some Hornby bogies under it, source some sides, MJT roof and cosmetic ends and your are well on your way.

 

Thank you again, Andrew, most helpful!

[micklner]

4 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Afternoon Jonathan,

 

the brake has comet sides on MJT, the compo is MJT only. Nobody etches hinge holes for me, unfortunately. I drill them out and file a slot. I don't have too much of a problem with Comet sides, the beading is a little clunkier than MJT but because the etching is quite deep it doesn't really show on the painted model. I've only used the sides of the end door thirds and the above two brakes from the Comet range, ooh and one compo, the only cross over with the MJT range. I will always use the MJT components if I have the choice.

 

With regard to the drop lights, there is a half etch cusp in the window opening on the comet sides, I file this out, allowing the larger MJT droplights to fit in the opening. It makes a big difference. The Comet sides compo mentioned earlier, lacks the airy appearance of this new build because of the little windows and armor plated droplights. I have moor issues with some of the Bedford sides, obviously working off the same drawings as Kirk. Below is one of the Comet end door thirds, when painted I think that the beading looks fine.

Beautiful work !!!

[Lecorbusier]

5 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Afternoon Jonathan,

 

the brake has comet sides on MJT, the compo is MJT only. Nobody etches hinge holes for me, unfortunately. I drill them out and file a slot. I don't have too much of a problem with Comet sides, the beading is a little clunkier than MJT but because the etching is quite deep it doesn't really show on the painted model. I've only used the sides of the end door thirds and the above two brakes from the Comet range, ooh and one compo, the only cross over with the MJT range. I will always use the MJT components if I have the choice.

 

With regard to the drop lights, there is a half etch cusp in the window opening on the comet sides, I file this out, allowing the larger MJT droplights to fit in the opening. It makes a big difference. The Comet sides compo mentioned earlier, lacks the airy appearance of this new build because of the little windows and armor plated droplights. I have moor issues with some of the Bedford sides, obviously working off the same drawings as Kirk. Below is one of the Comet end door thirds, when painted I think that the beading looks fine.

Nothing really to say but how much I am enjoying these wonderful bits of modelling ... inspirational stuff.

[Tony Wright]

Just for information, and to give thanks, I've just received a large box full of Lima, Hornby and Bachmann locos and loads of bits and pieces donated by Juke (Syd) for me to sell on behalf of CRUK.

 

I'm checking each one, and then I'll find new homes for them via shows or this thread. 

 

Juke's generosity is totally humbling, and it shows that generosity of spirit is alive and very well. Than you ever so much, Syd.

 

And, on the subject of generosity and thanks - a friend visited today and we ran every one of LB's trains. All went well until I cocked-up on the MR/M&GNR bit, but it was good fun. Michael, thank you so much for your most-generous donation to CRUK. 

[mdh1950]

Tony,

 

Very many thanks for your and Mo’s hospitality today. As always great fun and a privilege to run the trains on LB, also thank you for your help with the footplate.

 

Michael

[jwealleans]

Thank you, Andrew, I'll bear that in mind for the next Comet kit I'm given to make up.  I also have to thank you for reminding me that MJT did one of the Gresley Composites (I have one of each configuration to make for the Easterling).

 

Beautiful teak as always.  Where do you obtain your destination boards?

[Jesse Sim]

11 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Just for information, and to give thanks, I've just received a large box full of Lima, Hornby and Bachmann locos and loads of bits and pieces donated by Juke (Syd) for me to sell on behalf of CRUK.

 

I'm checking each one, and then I'll find new homes for them via shows or this thread. 

 

Juke's generosity is totally humbling, and it shows that generosity of spirit is alive and very well. Than you ever so much, Syd.

 

And, on the subject of generosity and thanks - a friend visited today and we ran every one of LB's trains. All went well until I cocked-up on the MR/M&GNR bit, but it was good fun. Michael, thank you so much for your most-generous donation to CRUK. 

Anything worthy for Brighton Junction Tony? 

[Headstock]

1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

Thank you, Andrew, I'll bear that in mind for the next Comet kit I'm given to make up.  I also have to thank you for reminding me that MJT did one of the Gresley Composites (I have one of each configuration to make for the Easterling).

 

Beautiful teak as always.  Where do you obtain your destination boards?

 

Thanks Jonathan,

 

when I come to think about it, there may be some discrepancies in the quality of Comet brass sides, with the later products being generally better than some of the early efforts, I may have just got lucky. With regard to the destination boards, I make my own. I've been fortunate in being able to track down some good reference material for the Manchester expresses, The Master Cutler (LNER style, white on blue), The York - Bournemouth (Southern) and the South Yorkshireman. The Eastterling sounds an interesting project, I shall look forwards to that.

[grahame]

Skipping though some electronic photo folders I came across these. I'm not sure if I've posted them before (memory not what it was or maybe on another thread) but hopefully they are of interest as a step by step of my efforts . . . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's N/2mm (as usual for me) and still not finished. I wasn't sure whether to detail the end of the building with internal decoration, fireplaces, etc., but I think the damage was caused by a German bomb in WW2 and didn't get cleared and built on until 50 years later. I seem to recall that the end was patched up (rendered?) as weather-proofing when I saw it in the 80s but I could be wrong (that memory) and it's still possible to add more details when I get around to finishing it.

 

G

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Chamby]

Can I ask a basic question please?  I am having a little trouble with a Peco bullhead rail turnout that shorts out occasionally.   If you are familiar with the product there are some notable design differences with their previous streamline offerings, mostly to do with their new ‘Unifrog’ concept which appears rather more sensitive to shorting out around the throat.

 

As a result I am looking more closely at the back-to-back’s of both my loco and rolling stock wheelsets, and as expected have found some variance across RTR stock.  Can I ask the more experienced builders on this thread what back-to-back measurement you normally use?  14.5; 14.75 or 14.82mm?   The latter is for RP25 standards, I believe.

 

My layout currently has a mix of Peco & C&L bullhead rail trackwork, but also some code 100 streamline used off-scene, which probably doesn’t help matters!

 

Thanks in anticipation,

 

Phil.

 

 

[Atso]

That teak coach is absolutely brilliant Headstock! Your teak effect is exceptionally good!

 

I've just taken the third generation test print of the Howlden coach off the printer. I've been forced to integrate the roof with the body and add the interior to the under frame section (not visible in the picture!). The under frame needs a couple of minor revisions to the design. I tried to represent the beading that is present at the very bottom of the body (below the lowest panel beading) but this is very thin and prone to warping so I think it'll be better if I remove it from the CAD - will anyone notice as it trundles along the layout? I also need to remember to add some supports for the tops of the windows on the next one (notice the slight curves!). Not as nice as an etched coach, but much lighter and I think, once I've finished playing with the design, it'll serve as a suitable 'layout coach'.

 

 

Now I just need to be patient and wait for the drawings for the other coaches to arrive!

 

Edited February 13, 2019 by Atso

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Anything worthy for Brighton Junction Tony? 

I'm afraid not Jesse,

 

There's some excellent stuff, though; including Lima diesels of types 40, Warship and Westerns, plus a WR DMU in green.

 

There's also an old Triang-Hornby three-car Metro Cam DMU, boxed. It was a non-runner when it arrived, but it works fine now. Value, anyone? 

 

There a few Bachmann or Hornby steam-outline locos, but nothing LNER apart from a tender drive Hornby Shire/Hunt in BR black. 

 

I've gone through every loco, and every one works fine now. Three were wired the wrong way round, but they now all go the same way. 

 

May I ask generally, what sort of prices might I ask for the likes of a new Bachmann Jinty or Ivatt 2-6-2T? Or a new Hornby Rebuilt Merchant Navy with DCC on board? Or a Lima Ltd Edition Class 26 from Harburn Hobbies, in mint condition with a certificate? Or a Hornby NB Type 2 D61XX Class? 

 

As I say, Syd has been incredibly generous. Having already this year sent not far off £800.00 to CRUK, the £3,000.00 target for this year should be on. 

[jwealleans]

Phil,

 

I find mosT RTR has the back to back set too tight.  I use a 14.45mm gauge from Wizard Models.  My stock is tested on handbuilt OO track, but runs on Grantham and occasionally Little Bytham with no trouble.

[grahame]

3 hours ago, Atso said:

That teak coach is absolutely brilliant Headstock! Your teak effect is exceptionally good!

 

I've just taken the third generation test print of the Howlden coach off the printer. I've been forced to integrate the roof with the body and add the interior to the under frame section (not visible in the picture!). The under frame needs a couple of minor revisions to the design. I tried to represent the beading that is present at the very bottom of the body (below the lowest panel beading) but this is very thin and prone to warping so I think it'll be better if I remove it from the CAD - will anyone notice as it trundles along the layout? I also need to remember to add some supports for the tops of the windows on the next one (notice the slight curves!). Not as nice as an etched coach, but much lighter and I think, once I've finished playing with the design, it'll serve as a suitable 'layout coach'.

 

 

Interesting.

 

Is there a specific reason for not having the roof separate as originally planned?

 

G

[Atso]

1 hour ago, grahame said:

 

Interesting.

 

Is there a specific reason for not having the roof separate as originally planned?

 

G

 

Yes, the toplight positions make for a very weak top edge which leads to more warping of the sides. Also, trying to convince the roof to maintain its shape sufficiently to get a good fit in the real world has turned out to be a right old pain. Also, the compartment partitions lead to some deformity of the body when printed as one part. I could have made the interior a separate, third component but it would have required another cycle on the printer which would have been another eight hours and I would have still had the issues with the roof.

 

I'd have been happier with a separate roof but not to be.

[Tony Wright]

Another splendid day's operating on LB, this time with four members of the Melton Mowbray Club. Many thanks chaps for driving so diligently. 

 

One problem - another Seep point motor failure in the fiddle yard. That's about 11 now in as many years. Too many, or am I expecting too much?

 

I know I'll never use them again, and the replacement will be a Peco surface-mounted type. 

[Ben Alder]

12 hours ago, Chamby said:

Can I ask a basic question please?  I am having a little trouble with a Peco bullhead rail turnout that shorts out occasionally.   If you are familiar with the product there are some notable design differences with their previous streamline offerings, mostly to do with their new ‘Unifrog’ concept which appears rather more sensitive to shorting out around the throat.

 

As a result I am looking more closely at the back-to-back’s of both my loco and rolling stock wheelsets, and as expected have found some variance across RTR stock.  Can I ask the more experienced builders on this thread what back-to-back measurement you normally use?  14.5; 14.75 or 14.82mm?   The latter is for RP25 standards, I believe.

 

My layout currently has a mix of Peco & C&L bullhead rail trackwork, but also some code 100 streamline used off-scene, which probably doesn’t help matters!

 

Thanks in anticipation,

 

Phil.

 

 

My track is a mix of C&L with Peco Code 75 points and Code 75 rail offscene  plus a couple of bullhead points installed as they came in the goods yard as a trial. No problems with them but as mentioned, I check the BtoB of everything with a brass gauge block I have had for years now - it is set at 14.45mm and everything runs well at that - I did try a 14.8 setting a long while ago but got some problems with it - whether it would reoccur now I don't know. I was using Code 100 points then,IIR. I also fit all wagons and coaches with Romfords, or whatever they are called now, from Markits.