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1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

 

Direct trains from Ely to Brum International and twenty quid if you book early enough.  Couldn't be more convenient.

That’s what my mum and I did last year. I think we’ll probably drive this year. I have mock exams in November so that will affect what I can and can’t do.

 

Regards,

Jamie

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6 hours ago, 31A said:

 

Quite agree; here's one I made earlier:

 

P1020781.jpg.411c049f102ebf8b139ae39d56a9ea9c.jpg

 

Although the 4 wheeled brake is from a Chivers plastic kit.

Yea. I recognise the curse dents and swearing stripes on that magnificent item Steve. :)

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On 09/10/2018 at 11:23, Lecorbusier said:

Roger Daltrey is one of the great and the good involved in this ... The Aimrec model railway museum, Ashford, Kent.

 

https://www.thelondoneconomic.com/news/ashford-on-track-to-get-4-million-model-railway-centre/25/05/

 

Don't know where things have got to since the article. This is the web site

 

http://www.aimrec.co.uk/

 

Just found this recent article ... so still alive and kicking!

 

https://www.kentonline.co.uk/ashford/news/historic-sheds-could-house-ambitious-159198/

 

Is there any further update on this project?

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3 minutes ago, ScRSG said:

 

Is there any further update on this project?

 

I spoke with Cliff Parsons about AIMREC at the recent Railex show.

 

There is lots happening behind the scenes but after a couple of raised and dashed hopes for premises, I don't think he wants to say anything until he is certain that the latest plan is going ahead.

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18 hours ago, 31A said:

 

Quite agree; here's one I made earlier:

 

P1020781.jpg.411c049f102ebf8b139ae39d56a9ea9c.jpg

 

Although the 4 wheeled brake is from a Chivers plastic kit.

This is splendid work, Steve,

 

Thanks for posting.

 

Isinglass also makes an LNER milk van kit.

 

659234325_Isinglassmilkvan18.jpg.fd33e98012dc754e401be78cde04a860.jpg

 

There's something about sheet brass models which makes the completed things look very attractive in my opinion. In fact, several commentators at shows (often women) I attend with models in this condition think it's a 'shame' to paint them. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

 

 

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Thanks Tony, glad you like it!  It seemed to be a well designed kit in general as with most D&S models, and a nice kit to put together on the whole although as you say some fiddly bits.  In particular the door runners were very small and difficult to solder neatly.  I 'spaced out' the upper ones away from the body sides (with square wire), as I thought they should be flush with the outer edges of the doors.  Nevertheless, looking at that picture again I think the lower runner on the door nearest the camera isn't on quite straight!

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3 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

This is splendid work, Steve,

 

Thanks for posting.

 

Isinglass also makes an LNER milk van kit.

 

659234325_Isinglassmilkvan18.jpg.fd33e98012dc754e401be78cde04a860.jpg

 

There's something about sheet brass models which makes the completed things look very attractive in my opinion. In fact, several commentators at shows (often women) I attend with models in this condition think it's a 'shame' to paint them. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

 

 

Back in the 60s a lot of Korean brass models never got painted - and then there was the Tri-ang TT "gold" plated Merchant Navy sold by Kays.

 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-akXBz8qLvds/VWr9tp7w9eI/AAAAAAAABjc/M_H7ILL0NYg/s1600/Tri-ang%2BTT%2BGolden%2BTrain%2B01.jpg

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1 hour ago, 31A said:

Thanks Tony, glad you like it!  It seemed to be a well designed kit in general as with most D&S models, and a nice kit to put together on the whole although as you say some fiddly bits.  In particular the door runners were very small and difficult to solder neatly.  I 'spaced out' the upper ones away from the body sides (with square wire), as I thought they should be flush with the outer edges of the doors.  Nevertheless, looking at that picture again I think the lower runner on the door nearest the camera isn't on quite straight!

Th464279957_DSLNERMilkVan.jpg.be220cb909d48a2d183b43ddce0d5ebe.jpg

 

Thanks Steve,

 

Here's the D&S milk van I built.

 

It would appear I have a bit more branding to do......................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

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2 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Back in the 60s a lot of Korean brass models never got painted - and then there was the Tri-ang TT "gold" plated Merchant Navy sold by Kays.

 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-akXBz8qLvds/VWr9tp7w9eI/AAAAAAAABjc/M_H7ILL0NYg/s1600/Tri-ang%2BTT%2BGolden%2BTrain%2B01.jpg

Don't forget the Jubilees from Hong Kong which were gold plated - and very difficult to paint according to Larry Goddard. I've got No. 063 but I don't really know what to do with it.

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46 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Th464279957_DSLNERMilkVan.jpg.be220cb909d48a2d183b43ddce0d5ebe.jpg

 

Thanks Steve,

 

Here's the D&S milk van I built.

 

It would appear I have a bit more branding to do......................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Hold the horses there Tony, before adding any more branding, it's worth pointing out that all the photographs that have been posted are all of the General van. The Milk van, though similar, had a different arrangement of the ventilators, the groupings in the middle being located up under the cornice.

Edited by Headstock
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On 29/05/2019 at 08:12, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Jamie,

 

It was a pleasure to see you at Ely, and thank you for showing me the wagon you'd made and also those fantastic signals you'd made for Wickham Market. How old are you, again? 16 - 17? If I'd have been making what you're making a decade later in my life, I'd have puffed out in pompous, personal praise and pride (how's that for alliteration?). You, my young friend, represent the future of this hobby. I think it's fantastic to see - you're not RTR-reliant (you're becoming entirely self-reliant) and you certainly don't ask others to do your modelling for you.

 

Regarding D&S kits, they're among the finest on the market. However, out of necessity, they're complex. That doesn't mean they're inherently-difficult (far from it), but there are so many (often small) components supplied that patience and care are prerequisites for construction. Soldering is essential, too. I offer these words, not to put you off but because I know you'll make a fantastic job of it.

 

When finished, they do make lovely models.............................

 

1272944724_Isinglassmilkvan19DSDia.jpg.461b8369e2dfa4af944d42c444c24112.jpg

 

D&S Dia. 86 Milk Van built/painted by John Houlden.

 

325953963_PigeonVan.jpg.98ac59d53b8e328c98c8206c195fb8b6.jpg

 

D&S pigeon van, built by me painted by Geoff Haynes.

 

234932835_MGNRRU19.jpg.b5a6f4b10637f2f8d0d22d8324d50275.jpg

 

1123456303_MGNRRU22.jpg.a039d60e99dc87767cc033023eaa8326.jpg

 

D&S ex-GE RF, built/painted by me. 

 

Build that D&S kit, and I've got another one here for your next birthday!

 

If nothing else in this hobby, it shows how, given practical encouragement, younger modellers can succeed at a level way above what 'we' might have been achieving well over 50 years ago! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

 

Morning Tony,

 

What a lovely collection of vehicles, I especially like the ex GE Restaurant car. Pre grouping stock often had long lives, not enough of it is represented, often excluded from, late fifties early sixties layouts. A shame, as there are bags of modeling opportunities there.

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2 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

Don't forget the Jubilees from Hong Kong which were gold plated - and very difficult to paint according to Larry Goddard. I've got No. 063 but I don't really know what to do with it.

Why not chip it, convert it to EM and run it on Carlisle?

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22 hours ago, Chamby said:

 

Complete with a bus on a bridge...  good to see you holding up the hobby's traditions, Jesse!

 

The scale of the cutting is impressive, it will set your models into their environment very well.

 

Phil

Many thanks, I actually have a photo of a silver a4 with the Coronation passing under a bridge, with, a bus on a bridge, I’ll see if I can find it! 

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Progress on the Bird class, for what it's worth:

 

bird4.jpg.b984f8cee349cdbe035777872449a5bf.jpg

 

Following Sir's advice, I found that the motor/gearbox ran better in reverse than forward, so I swapped it around last night so that it's driving on the forward axle, and orientated the other way around. It's now lovely and smooth in forward gear, and a fair bit improved going backwards too. It was a bit of a faff (all the outside brake rods had to be unsoldered) but I'm glad I took the plunge.

 

There's been some discussion of the economics of kit construction compared to RTR, so while these plastic-bodied projects won't be to everyone's taste, and involve some inaccuracies and compromises, they're excellent value for money. Branchlines sell the complete package, including wheels and motor, and all detailing parts, for only about 107 pounds which I think is fantastic value.

 

Al

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Could I ask for some advice please?

 

The chassis for my A4 has been built on a jig (chassis squared lite), the upright rods were set using the conrods as a guide, before adding the bearings and soldering the frame spacers in place.   Now testing the rods in position they bind at three and nine o-clock.  Clearly I have done something wrong, but I am not sure exactly what.  The axles spin nice and freely on their own. 

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12 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Could I ask for some advice please?

 

The chassis for my A4 has been built on a jig (chassis squared lite), the upright rods were set using the conrods as a guide, before adding the bearings and soldering the frame spacers in place.   Now testing the rods in position they bind at three and nine o-clock.  Clearly I have done something wrong, but I am not sure exactly what.  The axles spin nice and freely on their own. 

I'm not sure of your nomenclature here, Rich,

 

What are the 'upright' rods? 

 

And, why would you set up a chassis using the con-rods? These have nothing to do with erecting a set of frames. Do you mean the coupling rods?

 

If any binding takes place, it's almost without exception at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, both sides. Just open out the bearing holes a bit at a time.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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1 hour ago, St Enodoc said:

Why not chip it, convert it to EM and run it on Carlisle?

In order to make it run it needs new wheels and a more modern motor, if I do that I'll run it myself on Chapel en le Frith - it will still be a b****r to paint though.

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50 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I'm not sure of your nomenclature here, Rich,

 

What are the 'upright' rods? 

 

And, why would you set up a chassis using the con-rods? These have nothing to do with erecting a set of frames. Do you mean the coupling rods?

 

If any binding takes place, it's almost without exception at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, both sides. Just open out the bearing holes a bit at a time.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thanks,

 

Poor explanation on my part, I mean of course the coupling rods.  The jig looks a little like this https://eileensemporium.com/images/com_hikashop/upload/avonside_press_release_c2p_2.jpg although mine is the simpler version which has a few less bells and whistles on it.  the spacing of the 3 vertical rods is set with the coupling rod.

 

So leave the coupling rods alone and tweak the brass bearings on the loco chassis until it runs ok?  I assume that it would be best to remove the rear wheelset and focus first on the lead two axles, then add the third axle back once the first two are running freely? 

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Rich, possibly daft suggestion, but (based on my own experience!) make sure you haven't inadvertently swapped the rods around.

 

Binding's a bit hard to diagnose without knowing whether it's just a tight spot or something more serious.

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28 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Thanks,

 

Poor explanation on my part, I mean of course the coupling rods.  The jig looks a little like this https://eileensemporium.com/images/com_hikashop/upload/avonside_press_release_c2p_2.jpg although mine is the simpler version which has a few less bells and whistles on it.  the spacing of the 3 vertical rods is set with the coupling rod.

 

So leave the coupling rods alone and tweak the brass bearings on the loco chassis until it runs ok?  I assume that it would be best to remove the rear wheelset and focus first on the lead two axles, then add the third axle back once the first two are running freely? 

 

Afternoon Fatadder,

 

I hate to get involved with someone else's conversation. However, I am intrigued to find out what the vertical rods are? Also, what dose 'chassis squared lite' mean? I may be reading this wrong but the way you seem to be going about the chassis construction would seem to guarantee that the coupling rods will bind.

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7 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

There's something about sheet brass models which makes the completed things look very attractive in my opinion. In fact, several commentators at shows (often women) I attend with models in this condition think it's a 'shame' to paint them. 

Hi

 

Both my wife and father in law would agree with the above. They always complain when I paint my etched models. I did build the RT Models Hudson Tipper wagon for my father in law and he has it mounted on his lounge wall varnished but unpainted.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Tony and other experienced modellers probably do this, but it's an obvious tip for anyone new to chassis. Make the first pair of rods as a pair back to back and ream them through so they are the same.

 

As you separate them put a spot of paint of different colours ( I use red and green for port and starboard) on the back face of the rods. That way you can tell which side of the chassis they go on right up to final assembly, and you don't accidentally swap them over. 

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18 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

Afternoon Fatadder,

 

I hate to get involved with someone else's conversation. However, I am intrigued to find out what the vertical rods are? Also, what dose 'chassis squared lite' mean? I may be reading this wrong but the way you seem to be going about the chassis construction would seem to guarantee that the coupling rods will bind.

No problem at all,

I am referring to the design of chassis jig that I am using from Avonside, 

https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=2959&name=avonside-chassis2lite-4mm-xp&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1118 

 

I think I am using it in the right way, though I am planning to rewatch the instruction videos tonight and double check that I am not making a silly mistake.

 

5 minutes ago, Dave John said:

Tony and other experienced modellers probably do this, but it's an obvious tip for anyone new to chassis. Make the first pair of rods as a pair back to back and ream them through so they are the same.

 

As you separate them put a spot of paint of different colours ( I use red and green for port and starboard) on the back face of the rods. That way you can tell which side of the chassis they go on right up to final assembly, and you don't accidentally swap them over. 

 

A very good idea, that I will most certainly be copying going forwards.

Edited by The Fatadder
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38 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

No problem at all,

I am referring to the design of chassis jig that I am using from Avonside, 

https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=2959&name=avonside-chassis2lite-4mm-xp&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1118 

 

I think I am using it in the right way, though I am planning to rewatch the instruction videos tonight and double check that I am not making a silly mistake.

 

 

A very good idea, that I will most certainly be copying going forwards.

 

Good gravy,

 

for that amount of money I would expect it to self assemble, add a motor and gearbox, paint itself and do the shopping while I was away having a nap. Anything that looks like a medievil torcher device is far to complicated for me, best of look.

Edited by Headstock
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