Tony Wright Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 22 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: Yes, that one's mine, here are most of the others on Carlisle. 46206 and 46207 are K's kits by unknown builders, the others are mine from our etches, painted by Graham Varley, weathering on 46208 by Barry Oliver. We also have 46204 and 46209 but I can't find photos of these. Thanks Mike, Lovely models. Will there eventually be the whole dozen on Carlisle? Regards, Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2019 I do often find that, whatever you are making, searching out the information, and then working out just how to make them, what materials/parts etc, can be by far the largest aspect of construction. Often the time stretches out due to frequent hiatus when you stall over some detail or other. For some time I though that the year I spent in the distant past making a 7mm Manning Wardle class I tank was a very long time, but this has now paled a bit compared to the two taken to produce a 2mm class 15, (if I recall the actual main body construction just took a week), and the five to complete a 2mm class 309 4-car EMU , a class which has been mentioned on here in the not too distant past, and which is, just, on the finishing straight now. However, as is often said, the journey can be as pleasurable - the satisfaction of overcoming problems - as reaching the finish, as good as that feels. Izzy 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 28 minutes ago, Izzy said: I do often find that, whatever you are making, searching out the information, and then working out just how to make them, what materials/parts etc, can be by far the largest aspect of construction. Often the time stretches out due to frequent hiatus when you stall over some detail or other. For some time I though that the year I spent in the distant past making a 7mm Manning Wardle class I tank was a very long time, but this has now paled a bit compared to the two taken to produce a 2mm class 15, (if I recall the actual main body construction just took a week), and the five to complete a 2mm class 309 4-car EMU , a class which has been mentioned on here in the not too distant past, and which is, just, on the finishing straight now. However, as is often said, the journey can be as pleasurable - the satisfaction of overcoming problems - as reaching the finish, as good as that feels. Izzy Thanks Izzy, The 'journey' has just as much importance as the reason for making it. Regards, Tony 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Barry O Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted June 4, 2019 In addition to the Princesses a number of Duchesses have passed through en route to Carlisle. Certain Mike will be identify who built what...Just a few for your "big LMS locos question Tony Mostly very light weathering. I know that Duchess of Rutland was built by Mike and painted by Larry Goddard many moons ago. The weathering hides one or two paint scuffs it obtained over the years. I need to visit and rework the weathering on the motion on some of these as my techniques for doing this have changed a lot over subsequent years. and of course a very clean City of Carlisle Baz 17 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 As at present a few Princess photos are being aired , thought I would put up two of mine ..... 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2019 3 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Thanks Mike, Lovely models. Will there eventually be the whole dozen on Carlisle? Regards, Tony. I'm not sure about that, David doesn't like some of the names and we do have 204 locos on the layout at the moment. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2019 Graham Varley built the other big Lizzies in Barry's post above from DJH kits, 46228 is scratch built from 1980 and two others are even older. I built City of Glasgow (as repaired after the Harrow crash - without the "utility front") in 1979, painted by Larry Goddard and now weathered by Barry, this is the most powerful steam loco we have on the layout 13 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 4, 2019 These Stanier pacifics are gorgeous. Such magnificent, well-proportioned machines. Thanks for the photos, one and all. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2019 I think the future of railway modelling and preservation is in the hands of the broadcasters. Recently we have Chris Tarrent around the world. Michael Portillo of course. The model engineering through Great Glen. The model railway challenge programme. The NYMR programme. All is generating interest. BR Blue, people knock it but it was an interesting era. Overlapping end of steam to sectorisation. Quite a pleasant livery. Vacuum brakes to air brakes. Huge variety of locomotives and stock. (22 classes over a few years at one area). Steam locos are very clean and shiny. But then I also like other older eras such as late 50s MR and WR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 5 hours ago, Barry O said: In addition to the Princesses a number of Duchesses have passed through en route to Carlisle. Certain Mike will be identify who built what...Just a few for your "big LMS locos question Tony Mostly very light weathering. I know that Duchess of Rutland was built by Mike and painted by Larry Goddard many moons ago. The weathering hides one or two paint scuffs it obtained over the years. I need to visit and rework the weathering on the motion on some of these as my techniques for doing this have changed a lot over subsequent years. and of course a very clean City of Carlisle Baz 7 hours ago, Michael Edge said: Yes, that one's mine, here are most of the others on Carlisle. 46206 and 46207 are K's kits by unknown builders, the others are mine from our etches, painted by Graham Varley, weathering on 46208 by Barry Oliver. We also have 46204 and 46209 but I can't find photos of these. Those are stunning - I'm tempted to do a City of London or City of Nottingham on a Rail tour after seeing those! 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2019 (edited) Bit late but I would like to mention a Soldering Station that I purchased some time back. Circuit Specialists CSI Premier 75W Multi Function, 3 Channel S.S. See my model: http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/ About half the cost of an Antex Station and more versatile IMO. The bits are a bit weird but available as spares of course. General site http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/ Phil Edited June 4, 2019 by Mallard60022 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2019 Carlisle doesn't have this Princess though One of the other victims of the Harrow crash, I built 46202 many years ago from a modified K's kit and a Hornby Dublo tender. Not much point in getting this one weathered too much - it was nearly new when it was written off. I've since discovered that the tender steps are wrong but they wouldn't be easy to change on this. 8 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2019 21 hours ago, Tony Wright said: I don't know, John, It's certainly different from my TC Antex, which has a great big box to control the temperature. The one you've shown is also cheaper. I don't think mine (660 TC) is made any more. Regards, Tony. Hi I think this is its replacement https://cpc.farnell.com/antex/660a/soldering-station-analogue/dp/SD01909?mckv=sLE6qeuBW_dc|pcrid|224654335881|kword||match||plid||slid||product|SD01909|pgrid|50784539401|ptaid|pla-588765687098|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrdjnBRDXARIsAEcE5YkzAu0ZkqQ2w3oSRgZs7g_aFHXrDHIUm864BbCSlnD6be6HFxQh8MMaAn0EEALw_wcB There is also a digital version https://cpc.farnell.com/antex/690d/soldering-station-digital/dp/SD01910?mckv=sLE6qeuBW_dc|pcrid|224654335881|kword||match||plid||slid||product|SD01910|pgrid|50784539401|ptaid|pla-588765687098|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrdjnBRDXARIsAEcE5YkYK_cRkogT66Kxv3GlAI31EotWygRGN0JwdUPzYwCP9Oi4_mi1vacaApnvEALw_wcB When I bought mine a few years ago it had a range of 180C to 450C but I notice that the lower limit is now 200C Cheers Paul 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headstock Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 23 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: Carlisle doesn't have this Princess though One of the other victims of the Harrow crash, I built 46202 many years ago from a modified K's kit and a Hornby Dublo tender. Not much point in getting this one weathered too much - it was nearly new when it was written off. I've since discovered that the tender steps are wrong but they wouldn't be easy to change on this. My favourite 'LMS' Pacific and the best looking one in my opinion, but did it ever get to Calisle ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted June 4, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 4, 2019 On 03/06/2019 at 18:54, Tony Wright said: I don't know, John, It's certainly different from my TC Antex, which has a great big box to control the temperature. The one you've shown is also cheaper. I don't think mine (660 TC) is made any more. Regards, Tony. I also have the Antex 660 TC which serves me well. I see the equivalent analogue and digital replacements have been posted. I would very much like to mention how much I have been impressed with the RSU (from London Road Models). It's got to the state where I often have both operational and switch between them depending on the task in hand. When I first used the RSU I guess it was a bit scary, but over time it been an enormous help with difficult tasks. It has been especially useful for soldering tinned (with the Antex) joints where there is limited access. Below are a couple of applications - sorry about the untidy working area! The last photo shows a method to solder two parts back to back which are clamped via pieces of balsa (for heat and electrical isolation). In this instance 2 probes are used instead of one probe and a connected plate. David 3 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrovich Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 19 minutes ago, zr2498 said: I also have the Antex 660 TC which serves me well. I see the equivalent analogue and digital replacements have been posted. I would very much like to mention how much I have been impressed with the RSU (from London Road Models). It's got to the state where I often have both operational and switch between them depending on the task in hand. When I first used the RSU I guess it was a bit scary, but over time it been an enormous help with difficult tasks. It has been especially useful for soldering tinned (with the Antex) joints where there is limited access. Below are a couple of applications - sorry about the untidy working area! The last photo shows a method to solder two parts back to back which are clamped via pieces of balsa (for heat and electrical isolation). In this instance 2 probes are used instead of one probe and a connected plate. David The Antex is not available anymore except on Ebay where I managed to obtain one that had hardly been used. It is a very good unit and was recommended to me by Tony at the Woking show I believe Regards Peter. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, zr2498 said: I also have the Antex 660 TC which serves me well. I see the equivalent analogue and digital replacements have been posted. I would very much like to mention how much I have been impressed with the RSU (from London Road Models). It's got to the state where I often have both operational and switch between them depending on the task in hand. When I first used the RSU I guess it was a bit scary, but over time it been an enormous help with difficult tasks. It has been especially useful for soldering tinned (with the Antex) joints where there is limited access. Below are a couple of applications - sorry about the untidy working area! The last photo shows a method to solder two parts back to back which are clamped via pieces of balsa (for heat and electrical isolation). In this instance 2 probes are used instead of one probe and a connected plate. David That's superb work, David, It looks very much like the MR/M&GNER girder bridge at the north end of Little Bytham. In fact it looks exactly like it! Regards, Tony. Edited June 4, 2019 by Tony Wright to clarify a point 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted June 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 4, 2019 (edited) 9 hours ago, Michael Edge said: Graham Varley built the other big Lizzies in Barry's post above from DJH kits, 46228 is scratch built from 1980 and two others are even older. I built City of Glasgow (as repaired after the Harrow crash - without the "utility front") in 1979, painted by Larry Goddard and now weathered by Barry, this is the most powerful steam loco we have on the layout Thanks Mike, Here she is doing just the kind of job you built her for................... And another Semi on crack duties on Carlisle................... This shot appeared on the front cover of RM some two years ago. I think these are great layout locos. They'll stand close-muster, but they really work as well. Is there a larger EM Gauge layout than Carlisle? It's bigger than Retford. Like Retford, though, what's needed are lamps and crews! Finally, the 'shiny' one. CITY OF CARLISLE passing Carlisle Cathedral and shortly to enter Carlisle Citadel, with at least 11 heavy-metal, kit-built vehicles in tow. It's my immense privilege to have been invited to photograph Carlisle on two occasions so far, with a further trip scheduled for 2020. Is it one of the greatest model railways ever built (or being built)? Oh yes! It's got the work of some of the finest exponents of the craft of model railways in it and on it. What today has proved to me (I've been visiting Ian Rathbone) is how dynamic this thread is. My thanks to all those who've contributed in the last 24 hours; and not an LNER/ER loco mentioned! Regards, Tony. Edited June 4, 2019 by Tony Wright to clarify a point 18 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 12 hours ago, petrovich said: The Antex is not available anymore except on Ebay where I managed to obtain one that had hardly been used. It is a very good unit and was recommended to me by Tony at the Woking show I believe Regards Peter. It's been replaced by a newer, metal cased, version. https://www.rapidonline.com/antex-u7825f0-660a-analogue-soldering-station-85-4752 There are many alternatives, often with digital displays and varying widely in price. Weller (now top end pricies), Xytronic, ERSA, Hakko, Atten, etc. As always, it is worth buying an established brand such as Antex where alternative tips, spare elements, etc are available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnarcher Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 19 minutes ago, Jol Wilkinson said: It's been replaced by a newer, metal cased, version. https://www.rapidonline.com/antex-u7825f0-660a-analogue-soldering-station-85-4752 There are many alternatives, often with digital displays and varying widely in price. Weller (now top end pricies), Xytronic, ERSA, Hakko, Atten, etc. As always, it is worth buying an established brand such as Antex where alternative tips, spare elements, etc are available. I'm looking at getting something like this. My old basic Antex is fine, but I think I will want something useful for white-metal soldering. The minimum temp on this one appears to be 200, which seems a bit high for that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2019 I'm still learning whitemetal soldering, but what I have done has been around the 230c mark - including some finer detail like brake shoes. Not melted anything *yet*... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 5, 2019 Depending on the exact mix of metals in the whitemetal, the melting point is somewhere around 200°C. If you have a soldering iron set accurately at that sort of temperature, you should be OK as you will never transfer the full temperature of the iron to the metal. I bought an ERSA soldering station a while ago. Variable down to 150° and 150 watts. Not cheap but a superb bit of kit, fully capable of everything from laminating 3 layers of 18 thou on a 7mm smokebox to the most delicate work. For whitemetal I set it at 180° and it is as easy as soldering brass and I can use 145° solder to attach whitemetal to brass/nickel silver with no problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) Nice photos & model of Carlisle. I never got there in the days of the Duchesses, it was Jubs Brits & Black 5's for me - 5 August 1967 45562 Alberta brought us up over Ais Gill from Leeds on the 10-17 Birmingham - Glasgow relief (long way round !!). 70028 Royal Star took the train forward to Glasgow. Black 5 44911 took us over Shap to Preston. I think the gantry signal in the shots below are the same one modelled in Tony's photo above. Near the end for all these locos. Pity Alberta was not preserved, she gave us a good run over the Settle & Carlisle. Brit15 Edited June 5, 2019 by APOLLO Typo 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 Just a few personal points on white metal soldering if I may? Tony Gee is right in saying that most white metal castings melt at around 200 degrees (C), but that is also dependent on the size of a casting. A tiny piece at 200 degrees will be a blob in an instant, but, say, a pair of boiler halves (in 4mm) can be cheerfully soldered with the iron cranked up to near 300 (but don't dwell too long!). Where two pieces of white metal of different sizes are to be soldered together, always rest the bit on the larger piece - that way, there's less chance of melting taking place. Similarly, where white metal parts are to be soldered to 'hard' metals such as brass or nickel silver, always rest the iron on those when forming a joint. I tin the brass or nickel silver with 145 degree solder first, then make the joint with low-melt. 1 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2019 I bought one of these Weller units about 12 years ago and have found it good for all my soldering needs: For normal brass soldering, it's always set to the maximum temperature, which is 6 on the dial. When I started white metal soldering, I dialled the temperature control down from 6 to 4 as a guess, tested it on a scrap piece of white metal, and found that I'd hit on a pretty good setting for general white metal work. Now all I ever do is dial from 6 to 4 and back again. I've changed the tip several times over the years but there's an annoying snag I keep encountering, which is that the tip works loose during soldering. It's retained by a screw in the side of the iron, but no matter how many times I tighten it, it'll work loose after a few minutes. I suppose it's to do with metal expansion/contraction but it's very irritating! I wonder if anyone else has experienced something similar with their irons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now