richard i Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 Tighten screw when hot? Just an idea. Richard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2019 12 minutes ago, richard i said: Tighten screw when hot? Just an idea. Richard That's what I end up doing mid-way through soldering but it doesn't seem to work. Perhaps I ought to have a look at the screw to see if there's been any damage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 Two more 'Semis' in OO from a few years ago. I acquired this unfinished, scratch-built example a few years ago. I built the chassis and finished the bodywork off, asking Ian Rathbone to paint it. This one started off as a standard Hornby 'Duchess', to which I fitted all of Comet's conversion pieces and lots of detail bits to produce one of the Ivatt pair. Decent bogie wheels were also substituted, but the Hornby chassis, drivers and motion were retained. The tender is complete Comet. Again, Ian Rathbone painted it. Today, of course, Hornby makes exactly the same loco, but so what? Yes, anyone (as long as they can afford it) can have one, but no 'modelling' is involved - apart from (perhaps) junking the awful bogie wheels, couplings, and adding detail/weathering. Both these locos' construction featured in a BRM Annual. I made them as part of a barter. For these (and a couple of other loco-detailing projects) I got all of Little Bytham's baseboards built (my supplying the material). I know I got the better part of the deal! 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peach james Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 28 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: I made them as part of a barter. For these (and a couple of other loco-detailing projects) I got all of Little Bytham's baseboards built (my supplying the material). I know I got the better part of the deal! As long as both of you thought you got the better part of the deal, then it all works out in the end ! Lovely photos of the Semi's, but there's only one Pacific for me... (& that one's from Sherwood Forest) As scratchbuilt by Harry Boneham, plans vetted by Riddles and drawn by LBSC: James 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel W Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 On the subject of low-temperature irons, has anyone encountered one of these units before? https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=4033&name=3-in-1-low-temperature-soldering-station&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1125 Apparently, they can be turned down to as low as 50°C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 As a Newbie to kit building I bought one of these: http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/ About half the price of the one mentioned by Jol and has done I have asked of it so far. Plus a large number of different sized tips and shapes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) 11 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Just a few personal points on white metal soldering if I may? Tony Gee is right in saying that most white metal castings melt at around 200 degrees (C), but that is also dependent on the size of a casting. A tiny piece at 200 degrees will be a blob in an instant, but, say, a pair of boiler halves (in 4mm) can be cheerfully soldered with the iron cranked up to near 300 (but don't dwell too long!). Where two pieces of white metal of different sizes are to be soldered together, always rest the bit on the larger piece - that way, there's less chance of melting taking place. Similarly, where white metal parts are to be soldered to 'hard' metals such as brass or nickel silver, always rest the iron on those when forming a joint. I tin the brass or nickel silver with 145 degree solder first, then make the joint with low-melt. If my iron is set at 180° or 190° ad the tip is really that temperature, the tiniest whitemetal fittings can be soldered safely. The ERSA iron has a sensor in the tip that claims to be accurate to within 5°. If you are melting a metal that has a melting point of 200°, then your iron just has to be hotter than that. It is more to do with the accuracy of the temperature control of the iron than the technique. The temperature has nothing to do with the size of the part being soldered. That is all about heat, not temperature. An iron will heat up a small part to melting point much quicker than it heats up a big bit but they both melt at the same temperature. I have had temperature controlled irons that overshoot the set temperature by some way, especially when they are put on a big lump of cold metal and try to correct the cooling effect. The ERSA is much more accurate and gives no problems. Edited June 5, 2019 by t-b-g 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 27 minutes ago, The Snapper said: As a Newbie to kit building I bought one of these: http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/ About half the price of the one mentioned by Jol and has done I have asked of it so far. Plus a large number of different sized tips and shapes. That seems fantastic value for money for a temperature-controlled soldering station. If it does all you ask of it, then that's great. It's certainly cheaper than the Antex ones I use. Regards, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 2 minutes ago, t-b-g said: If my iron is set at 180° or 190° ad the tip is really that temperature, the tiniest whitemetal fittings can be soldered safely. The ERSA iron has a sensor in the tip that claims to be accurate to within 5°. If you are melting a metal that has a melting point of 200°, then your iron just has to be hotter than that. It is more to do with the accuracy of the temperature control of the iron than the technique. I have had temperature controlled irons that overshoot the set temperature by some way, especially when they are put on a big lump of cold metal and try to correct the cooling effect. The ERSA is much more accurate and gives no problems. Thanks Tony, As one who's melted many wee castings, thanks for the tip. How much does your ERSA iron cost, please? Regards, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 5, 2019 2 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: Thanks Tony, As one who's melted many wee castings, thanks for the tip. How much does your ERSA iron cost, please? Regards, Tony. Sadly lots! I got mine a few years ago from Blundells and it was over £250 then on special offer but I know they have gone up since then. They do lots of different ones but mine is an i-con model. They do a good range of bits and I have never regretted buying it for one moment. It transformed my soldering from the moment I got it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecorbusier Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 I came across this series of videos linked on the Scaleforum .... people might be interested ..... I found the process very interesting - though the series is a work in progress. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2019 1 hour ago, The Snapper said: As a Newbie to kit building I bought one of these: http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/ About half the price of the one mentioned by Jol and has done I have asked of it so far. Plus a large number of different sized tips and shapes. I also have one of these, and whilst I probably use it a lot less than some others on this thread I can certainly recommend it for all temperature ranges and applications; it also goes "to sleep" at about 100deg when not in use and then "wakes up" and regains the set temperature as soon as the iron is moved - which seems quite clever to my simple mind, and probably preserves the tip. (no connection etc). Tony 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Tony Teague said: I also have one of these, and whilst I probably use it a lot less than some others on this thread I can certainly recommend it for all temperature ranges and applications; it also goes "to sleep" at about 100deg when not in use and then "wakes up" and regains the set temperature as soon as the iron is moved - which seems quite clever to my simple mind, and probably preserves the tip. (no connection etc). Tony I bought one based on the recommendation of a poster on this thread. Can’t remember who. Maybe it was you? The reviews on the website have a couple by modellers which helped. And the “sleep” mode is very effective and probably helps preserve the tips as you say. EDIT Another feature I like is the ability to set three presets to your most used temperature settings. Edited June 5, 2019 by Guest Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 5, 2019 7 hours ago, peach james said: As long as both of you thought you got the better part of the deal, then it all works out in the end ! The eternal triangle - cost, price and value. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Hayter Posted June 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) Another owner of a circuit specialists machine here. It was bought as a replacement for a 30+ years old pot based "temperature" controlled* that gave up the ghost. The difference between these makes chalk and cheese seem very similar. * A simple potentiometer based tool is simply restricting the power input and thus crudely controlling the temperature, but suck heat out of the tip with a big chunk of metal and it takes an age to get back to temperature and melt the solder. Compare this with the CS machine that heats up to temperature in literally a few seconds and then stays there, no matter how big the lump of metal the tip comes in contact with. Soldering white metal to large lumps of brass used to be a nightmare - a nightmare no longer with the new machine. Edited to add: Delivery from Manchester to France was 47hours after placing the order. Letters take longer than that normally. Edited June 5, 2019 by Andy Hayter extra data Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 8 hours ago, St Enodoc said: The eternal triangle - cost, price and value. In this case, John, it was the perfect equilateral triangle. Norman Turner, one of my dear friends at WMRC, used to be a carpentry lecturer. Anything he doesn't know about making things in wood, from roof framing, staircases, furniture to model railway baseboards just isn't worth knowing. He's also brilliant at building wagons. However, he struggles with building locomotives. So, what about some bartering? Down the years, I've built several locomotives for him (he paying for the materials) and he's made things for me in wood (my paying for the materials). Here are a few 'exchanges'........................ As well as building all of Stoke Summit's baseboards (which was my property), he built all the boards for Little Bytham.............. I wonder what it would have cost to have a full-time carpenter (of the highest skill!) build all this? As well as the two 'Semis' featured yesterday, here are a few locos I've built for Norman in exchange down the years. In the case of the last one, 60513 DANTE, I built this for Norman for service on Stoke Summit (as with the other three). Norman's an LMR man, and a Thompson Pacific is stretching a point, especially with Stoke Summit now having been sold and no longer on the circuit. So, what can we do in exchange, since I needed no more baseboards? How about a modified/detailed/weathered RTR 'Jubilee', a modified/detailed/weathered RTR 'Patriot' and a 'simple' loco in exchange for the A2/3? These, and a kit-built Super D were the deal (I can't find the picture of the Superd D). Since Ian Rathbone painted DANTE, I think I got a very fine exchange! Geoff Haynes weathered the two above. What does all this show, if anything? That by pooling resources and working with good mates, lots of things are possible in building model railways. Of course, there's a materials cost imperative, but we've exchanged our 'time'for nothing. One friend once commented that I seemed to be lucky in that 'folk did lots of things for me', and that he wished he was as fortunate. I'm not sure if it's luck, because all he could bring to the modelling table was money, having very few 'modelling' skills himself. Regards, Tony. 16 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecorbusier Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 45 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: One friend once commented that I seemed to be lucky in that 'folk did lots of things for me', and that he wished he was as fortunate. I'm not sure if it's luck, because all he could bring to the modelling table was money, having very few 'modelling' skills himself. As they say .... you make your own luck Was it Gary Player who is meant to have said.... ....It's very strange, the harder I practice the luckier I seem to get ..... or something like that - though I think the essence of the quote goes back much earlier than Player. 3 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted June 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2019 58 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: I wonder what it would have cost to have a full-time carpenter (of the highest skill!) build all this? Apart from the fiddle yards boards the rest are all individual, in the workshop I could set up Jigs for some of the repetitious joints but the majority would need to be individually marked and cut. Including the laying out and fitting you would be looking at somewhere between £1500-2000 for a layout of that size. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 2 hours ago, chris p bacon said: Apart from the fiddle yards boards the rest are all individual, in the workshop I could set up Jigs for some of the repetitious joints but the majority would need to be individually marked and cut. Including the laying out and fitting you would be looking at somewhere between £1500-2000 for a layout of that size. That seems incredibly good value, Dave, I assume all joints would be mortice and tenon? Regards, Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted June 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2019 5 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: That seems incredibly good value, Dave, I assume all joints would be mortice and tenon? Regards, Tony. As it is ply it is more of a cross lap than M & T. If Little Bytham were meant to be portable then it would be much more substantial with each board being a robust rigid box. I recently (18 months ago?) made the remainder of the boards required for East Beds 'Finchley Road' layout. It is a supporting structure of beams on adjustable trestles that act as a tray to carry the layout boards. All made from 6mm birch ply it took in excess of 80 hours and was only 70% of what was required. I did a short piece for the club newsletter which I've attached. Making the Beams for Finchley Road.doc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 I think Gary Player said, "the more I practice the luckier I get. " 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 1 hour ago, chris p bacon said: As it is ply it is more of a cross lap than M & T. If Little Bytham were meant to be portable then it would be much more substantial with each board being a robust rigid box. I recently (18 months ago?) made the remainder of the boards required for East Beds 'Finchley Road' layout. It is a supporting structure of beams on adjustable trestles that act as a tray to carry the layout boards. All made from 6mm birch ply it took in excess of 80 hours and was only 70% of what was required. I did a short piece for the club newsletter which I've attached. Making the Beams for Finchley Road.doc 9.33 MB · 16 downloads Each board on LB is a robust, rigid box, Dave, Stoke Summit's and Charwelton's baseboards were made in exactly the same way - from high-quality, 9mm, birch ply, costing 12 years ago over £30.00 for an 8' x 4' sheet. Apart from the legs and infill ground cover support, everything on each baseboard was made from exactly the same material. There is no twisting or any warping, nor any chance of these impediments to good running occurring where boards are made of 'mixed-media'. Regards, Tony. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted June 6, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 6, 2019 5 hours ago, Lecorbusier said: As they say .... you make your own luck Was it Gary Player who is meant to have said.... ....It's very strange, the harder I practice the luckier I seem to get ..... or something like that - though I think the essence of the quote goes back much earlier than Player. An old friend, who was sales director for a well-known (full-size) locomotive manufacturer, was often accused by his competitors of having opportunities fall into his lap. His reply was always "Ah, but you have to have your lap where the opportunity is going to fall". 2 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peach james Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 Tony W, I know that Jason Shron is looking for photos of lift out sections for his home layout. (it's a travesty, being of Toronto Union Station to Kingston, Ontario...). He's looking for the best of solutions, as he has a lift out to slowly build. He uses Facebook as his homepage for the layout, I know you don't use facebook, but if you have any good images, a note to him via the Rapido page might go well appreciated. James Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chamby Posted June 6, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 6, 2019 2 hours ago, peach james said: Tony W, I know that Jason Shron is looking for photos of lift out sections for his home layout. (it's a travesty, being of Toronto Union Station to Kingston, Ontario...). He's looking for the best of solutions, as he has a lift out to slowly build. He uses Facebook as his homepage for the layout, I know you don't use facebook, but if you have any good images, a note to him via the Rapido page might go well appreciated. James Click on the link to St Enodoc’s blog, in the post above yours. There’s an excellent, well thought out lifting flap on his layout, and a video demonstrating it on page 34 of the blog. I shall be doing something similar for my own layout... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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