Jump to content
 

Please use M,M&M only for topics that do not fit within other forum areas. All topics posted here await admin team approval to ensure they don't belong elsewhere.

Wright writes.....


Recommended Posts

19 minutes ago, chris p bacon said:

 I now have a vision of John Inman building a DJH kit in my head.....:D

Camping?

 

Not under any circumstances, whatever the usage of the word! 

 

To change the subject, I've got six very fine P4 modeller visiting LB today (though is that tautology, since all users of the finest gauge must be 'fine'?). Obviously, my trainset has to work perfectly, so we'll check how things go.................... In my defence (do I need a defence?), it's much, much bigger than anything they've ever built, the locos are much larger (with outside valve gear), the trains are far more numerous and they're much longer, and they go much faster! We'll see.................

  • Like 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 18/06/2019 at 08:51, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Clem,

 

My own memories of A5s are from Manchester London Road, where they'd take outer-suburban trains from the 'ER' side to far-flung places such as Macclesfield. 'Ancient & Modern' side by side, adjacent to the big EM2s (though I took much more interest in the expresses headed by the ex-LMS 4-6-0s!). They'd also be alongside Gorton-based L1s, sharing very similar duties. Both classes seemed to disappear together in the late-'50s from London Road - the A5s to withdrawal and the L1s to places elsewhere?

 

1226419960_A569825Colwick18.6.592046.jpg.a9dabf1eaacb3ed356bef7a312c3eccd.jpg

 

Definitely withdrawn. 69825 dumped at Colwick in 1959. 

 

1509298355_A569832DarlingtonShed24_04.5543H83.jpg.9bc07b8c62197e6080a23ad84cbd69a9.jpg

 

Did the Nu-Cast kit cater for the contract-built locos, with their lower fittings? Even down to round front buffers in some cases? The Craftsman kit didn't. 

 

Is the box above the front steps a feature of the contract-built ones, I wonder; not on the GC-built types? Ah, those joys of loco-picking! I think the BR lined black livery (ex-L&NWR-style) suited just about every loco type it was applied to. In some cases (in my opinion) far better than some of the originals, whatever their origins.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

You won't get a better model of the A5 , judging from the attached photos I ever seen.

https://www.52fmodels.org/gcr-class-9n-lner-br-class-a5-1

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, micklner said:

 

You won't get a better model of the A5 , judging from the attached photos I ever seen.

https://www.52fmodels.org/gcr-class-9n-lner-br-class-a5-1

It looks wonderful, Mick,

 

But, shouldn't the pony wheels have the same number of spokes as the bogie wheels?

 

I could well be wrong, but I thought they had ten.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
17 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

It looks wonderful, Mick,

 

But, shouldn't the pony wheels have the same number of spokes as the bogie wheels?

 

I could well be wrong, but I thought they had ten.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

The rear pony truck has 11 spokes on the A5. If you look at the prototype photos earlier in the thread you can't easily count 11 but you can see it is an odd number as the spokes are not opposite each other.

Edited by t-b-g
typo!
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

 I now have a vision of John Inman building a DJH kit in my head.....:D

Did I say 'camping'? Have I been a victim of the dreaded auto-correct again? Gets me in all kinds of trouble! (The fact that I used the word 'penchant' with it probably didn't help! ;) )

  • Funny 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Why not put them on here as well, Jesse? 

 

This thread covers many topics......................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

That is a very good idea, it will have to wait till tomorrow when I’m at work. Don’t have my computer at home. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote
1 hour ago, Clem said:

Did I say 'camping'? Have I been a victim of the dreaded auto-correct again?

 

 

We can but speculate on the appearance of a properly camped up locomotive. I certainly won't be camping up any of mine.

Edited by gr.king
  • Like 1
  • Funny 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, micklner said:

How do you hold the lamps whilst drilling?. I have managed to destroy 50% of the handles on the Lanarkshire LNER version I have whilst holding them. Very nice castings, and as said very good value.

 

I use a vice like the ones in the pics.

Easy to clamp and hold to ensure drill is true to the lamp and unlike trying to hold the lamp in tweezers or even between fingers when the drill catches it doesn't twist it round and remove the handle..as I presume was what happened!

 

IMG_4381.jpg.eeeb0bdf108e4767202a6bfad8d3b6a1.jpg

 

 

IMG_4386.jpg.d25f8b007de9cedd9c8e2bbc14288180.jpg

 

IMG_4384.jpg.f22620491418043a77ff09d1ee2c9019.jpg

 

IMG_4389.jpg.7270a1d246a243fb4ff54a4d69364210.jpg

 

IMG_4391.jpg.95ea1a7e1a9dca1fb4f31128eef4ecb5.jpg

  • Like 8
  • Informative/Useful 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, vitalspark said:

 

I use a vice like the ones in the pics.

Easy to clamp and hold to ensure drill is true to the lamp and unlike trying to hold the lamp in tweezers or even between fingers when the drill catches it doesn't twist it round and remove the handle..as I presume was what happened!

 

IMG_4381.jpg.eeeb0bdf108e4767202a6bfad8d3b6a1.jpg

 

 

IMG_4386.jpg.d25f8b007de9cedd9c8e2bbc14288180.jpg

 

IMG_4384.jpg.f22620491418043a77ff09d1ee2c9019.jpg

 

IMG_4389.jpg.7270a1d246a243fb4ff54a4d69364210.jpg

 

IMG_4391.jpg.95ea1a7e1a9dca1fb4f31128eef4ecb5.jpg

Very good idea , I have similar clamps , many thanks !!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

It looks wonderful, Mick,

 

But, shouldn't the pony wheels have the same number of spokes as the bogie wheels?

 

I could well be wrong, but I thought they had ten.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Tony

 

As already said by t-b-g above  , I have now looked at the relevant Yeadon volume, all the A5's in the photos had 10 spokes on the bogie and  11 spokes on the rear truck. Gibson do not do a 11 spoke wheel , no idea about any other makers ? In view of this the builder didn't have much choice other than use the 12 variety I presume . Either way he has made a lovely looking Loco.

 

edit , it has now been confirmed the model has the correct rear truck 11 spoke wheels fitted believed made by  Ultrascale .

Edited by micklner
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, micklner said:

Tony

 

As already said by t-b-g above  , I have now looked at the relevant Yeadon volume, all the A5's in the photos had 10 spokes on the bogie and  11 spokes on the rear truck. Gibson do not do a 11 spoke wheel , no idea about any other makers ? In view of this the builder didn't have much choice other than use the 12 variety I presume . Either way he has made a lovely looking Loco.

 

Looking closely at Tim Peacock’s excellent A5/1 I think the trailing radial truck wheel is Ultrascale

 

D759D074-097E-43CE-A134-2C6BE4065EE5.jpeg.21093d89a136fc6c83dd39ce629388d7.jpeg

 

https://www.ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/view/CAT021/116

 

It has a Stanier pattern bevelled rim but it is not that noticeable. I’d spot an incorrect number of spokes first. An acceptable compromise? I’d say so. Not all P4 lads/lasses are “hairshirt” you know :o)

 

Morgan

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, 45609 said:

 

Looking closely at Tim Peacock’s excellent A5/1 I think the trailing radial truck wheel is Ultrascale

 

D759D074-097E-43CE-A134-2C6BE4065EE5.jpeg.21093d89a136fc6c83dd39ce629388d7.jpeg

 

https://www.ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/view/CAT021/116

 

It has a Stanier pattern bevelled rim but it is not that noticeable. I’d spot an incorrect number of spokes first. An acceptable compromise? I’d say so. Not all P4 lads/lasses are “hairshirt” you know :o)

 

Morgan

Thanks Morgan,

 

I'm glad you've mentioned that not all P4 modellers are 'hairshirts'. A few came today, and none of them is.

 

We had a great time, running LB - very fast at times! - and it worked impeccably (even if I didn't). Jeff Day (of Dartley fame) actually brought two OO locos which he'd built for a friend many years ago. Sadly, his friend died and Jeff now has them. 

 

408969678_SEFinecastA260534.jpg.7e6c8bc9ff0daf752c99b05b8c48a167.jpg

 

First to run was this old Wills/SE Finecast A2. It ran very well (if a little light-footed) but it illustrates the problems of building a kit as supplied. Jeff's a GWR modeller (in P4), so he just built this loco as supplied. The kit was designed using the Roche drawing, which means the cab is wrong, the dome is wrong and the tender is wrong (among several other errors). No matter, it won't be altered now, and it stands as a memory to a friend. A product of its time I think, and good to see. 

 

1503761830_ModifiedHornbyBritannia.jpg.fd8d4e76e0157530f0b4e2a146e67273.jpg

 

The other one was this modified (ex-tender-drive) Hornby 'Britannia'. Another lovely runner, this one romped away with a quite-heavy train. 

 

It's a real privilege and pleasure to have such great chaps, the like of which came today to see and run LB. Thank you, gentlemen; for your hospitality, wit, tolerance and donations to CRUK. And thanks, Jeff, for bringing these models. It's always good to have visiting locos running on LB.

  • Like 16
Link to post
Share on other sites

For drilling out lamps, legs on figures ( to insert a pin) lampposts etc etc etc I use dental drills, suitably scrounged, in a pin chuck.

 

Far more controllable than using any sort of powered device, and having broken many a drill bit, leg, lamp and lamppost find this the most easiest way bar none.

 

If a larger hole is required than I just treat the dental drill hole as a pilot and open it up accordingly.

 

I've found it fine on plastic, resin, cured Milliput, Brass, whitemetal and numerous other materials.

Edited by BlackRat
  • Agree 2
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, BlackRat said:

For drilling out lamps, legs on figures ( to insert a pin) lampposts etc etc etc I use dental drills, suitably scrounged, in a pin chuck.

 

Far more controllable than using any sort of powered device, and having broken many a drill bit, leg, lamp and lamppost find this the most easiest way bar none.

 

If a larger hole is required than I just treat the dental drill hole as a pilot and open it up accordingly.

 

I've found it fine on plastic, resin, cured Milliput, Brass, whitemetal and numerous other materials.

 

I find that a Minidrill has so little power that switching it on then squeezing the chuck between first finger and thumb you can control it from zero to any speed and allows you to concentrate on lining up the lamp squarely.

There is no danger of it running away or damaging the casting if you regulate the speed as suggested.

 

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

 

1503761830_ModifiedHornbyBritannia.jpg.fd8d4e76e0157530f0b4e2a146e67273.jpg

 

The other one was this modified (ex-tender-drive) Hornby 'Britannia'. Another lovely runner, this one romped away with a quite-heavy train. 

 

 

Presumably it didn't have a limp like this real one:

 

DSC_9229cr.jpg.395f93233f5106b9df1fd2f1b0da56e6.jpg

 

G

 

  • Like 4
  • Funny 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, davefrk said:

Thanks to Mr Spark LMS have run out of certain lamps and will have to do a casting session next week which was going to be a busy week anyway.

 

Dave.

Sorry about that. It was my question that Mr Spark answered...

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, vitalspark said:

 

I find that a Minidrill has so little power that switching it on then squeezing the chuck between first finger and thumb you can control it from zero to any speed and allows you to concentrate on lining up the lamp squarely.

There is no danger of it running away or damaging the casting if you regulate the speed as suggested.

 

Dave.

 

I use my Minidrill in exactly the same way. I do this when drilling a precisely positioned 'dimple' before then drilling a pilot hole. 

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Good evening Tony,

 

I would like to present some RTR locomotives that are presently being modified.

 

First up is A3 2573 Harvester in c. 1928-34 condition complete with a Westinghouse pump. I need to do some additional research, but I believe that the locomotive should really be paired with a corridor tender. I have most of the bits for one of these but it will need to be assembled and painted before it is fit for service with this loco. The locomotive started life as a Dapol A3 2744, Grand Parade, but has been altered to right hand drive and had some corrections to the original livery. The Westinghouse pump came from a Dapol Terrier but I scratch built the mounting bracket. Vacuum pipes and couplings will be added in due course.

 

584644986_2573Harvester.jpg.dc1e1d3edd926b1aa206e640992fd0da.jpg

 

Next is 2562 Isinglass, again using a Dapol Grand Parade model as the starting point. This one has been backdated into A1 condition by sanding off the super heater header covers from the smokebox and converting to right hand drive. Since I took the (bad!) photograph, I've noticed that I've not transplanted the reversing rods yet - I'll do this tomorrow. You can just see where I've filled and patch painted the boiler following the removal of the pipe from this side. Both locomotives will end up being lightly weathered, so hopefully this will get hidden. Both locomotives should really have large cutouts to the cab sides but I decided it was best to draw the line at that one (at least for the moment!).

 

Isinglass.jpg.ef0667b076e31fc5f4fd05a207705752.jpg

 

However, Hadley Wood will require several A1s and A3s and I've still got a few more to work through. Nearly all of these have been purchased as non-runners or assembled out of various spare parts acquired over a number of years. The total roster for Hadley Wood will ultimately total twelve of these locomotives (five, other than weathering are already available for service), all with subtle differences. The locomotive on the far left hand side is a Flying Scotsman that is being repaired and detailed for a friend.

 

727663520_A1A3Projects.jpg.f247601fba9b087176752c915bb31f8f.jpg

  • Like 19
Link to post
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

As Tony mentioned, demanded, asked, pleaded, I'll never know? That I post these pictures from a running session a few weeks ago on here, so here goes. 

 

 

Here we have a Raven A2 heading south with a parcels train. I purchased this loco through Tony on behalf of a deceased estate, shes beautifully built and painted, some may remember it being posted on this thread back in November 2016. In the foreground is the half completed engineers train, with one of three kit bashed LNER Dolphin wagons. 

 

91960108_A2Parcels.JPG.4a996489c959974305129b79a3a38623.JPG

 

Looking North and we see an A4, '4491' Commonwealth of Australia, romping past south towards Grantham. I really like this shot, really shows the small incline on the road and embankment. A better view of the partially completed engineers train. 

 

180223651_A4Express.JPG.b889f34eaaef4fea1796579da12bdb42.JPG

 

Another favourite, this photo is actually my laptop screen saver. We have a C1 heading south with an ECML stopper, whilst a J11 heads towards Nottingham with a goods train, having come of the mainline. 

 

1721911559_C1J11.JPG.bc02d60b8f7503e5592b3aa7b8b7af5b.JPG

 

Another C1 heading north with the Yorkshire Pullman, coming round the curve into Brighton Junction. The private Ironstone line is being worked with a small sentinel, however there is a peckett that will be used for that line. 

 

1404189365_C1QUEENOFSCOTS.JPG.9b7d605bd4fe35393f32c8219532b55b.JPG

 

Lastly an O4 working hard with a heavy coal train on the Up line. I do need to change that post 40's number!!!!!!

 

1004847921_RODcoal.JPG.f19c86de11e5e4294f556bb855f8979c.JPG

Thanks Jesse,

 

Great stuff!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...