Wright writes.....

[grahame]

1 minute ago, Barry Ten said:

 

It lasts so long as it doesn't come into contact with anything glue-like. Even a tiny drop of PVA is disaster.

 

 

So how do you glue/fix it in place?

 

G

[Jesse Sim]

A question for anyone who’s built a Mailcoach coronation set, would it be better to use whitemetal bogies? If so which one would be appropriate? 

 

Thanks

 

Jesse 

[31A]

38 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

 

I've never made a J17 myself (though I helped complete one for a friend), largely because I never saw one in real life and it would be very unlikely (if not impossible?) for them to have run over Stoke Summit or through Little Bytham. However, who knows?

 

 

I have seen pictures of them working on the M&GN, in fact I believe some had tablet catchers on the tenders for that purpose, but how far west they worked on that line I don't know.

 

Edit:  Just checked the RCTS Green Book, which I should have done in the first place - apparently some went to the M&GN in 1942; eventually seventeen were fitted with vac brake & steam heat for use on that line where they were 'extensively used on all types of traffic' until they were displaced by the Ivatt Class 4s - so maybe a bit before LB's period!

Edited July 22, 2019 by 31A

[micklner]

6 minutes ago, Jesse Sim said:

A question for anyone who’s built a Mailcoach coronation set, would it be better to use whitemetal bogies? If so which one would be appropriate? 

 

Thanks

 

Jesse 

Use MJT bogies and articulated fittings .

[Barry Ten]

11 minutes ago, grahame said:

 

So how do you glue/fix it in place?

 

G

 

I should have been clearer! You glue it at the contact points (I used cyano) but if you get a drop of PVA on the thread between the posts, it hardens and shrivels, losing elasticity at that point. I guess there's just enough solvent in PVA to do harm. I've learned this the hard way...

[jwealleans]

Aren't the Coronation twins on 10' HD bogies?  I know MJT/Dart do 10' bogies, but unless they've brought them out very recently, I don't think they do the 10' cosmetic side.

 

Of course, you could use the Mailcoach sides on MJT bogies.

 

You can decide how well the MJT artic units run when I hand you your triplet over.

[jamie92208]

1 hour ago, grahame said:

 

So how do you glue/fix it in place?

 

G

I used superglue and it worked a treat. The insulators and cross arms were white metal cast from brass masters that I'd made. The poles, which were double, were turned for me by a friend, then assembled on a jig before being planted on the layout .  The lines were strung in situ starting at the south end where they went through a hole in the sky (backscene) where they were wrapped round a bit of matchstick.  Then each line was strung, and each subsequent one followed the sag of the previous one. They were terminated in a remavable piece of backscene. The poles, apart from the first one  were all removable. At the end of a show we started with the removable piece, then took the next pole out and placed it in a carrier, with the 'wires' dropped into an old plastic pill container.  The carrier, with all 14 poles was then bolted down to to the last board for transport.  It did work and loomed good.

 

Jamie

Edited July 22, 2019 by jamie92208

[Jesse Sim]

21 minutes ago, micklner said:

Use MJT bogies and articulated fittings .

Yes that’s what I was going to use, what ones but, the heavy duty ones? 

 

 

[Barry Ten]

11 minutes ago, jamie92208 said:

I used superglue and it worked a treat. The insulators and cross arms were white metal cast from brass masters that I'd made. The poles, which were double, were turned for me by a friend, then assembled on a jig before being planted on the layout .  The lines were strung in situ starting at the south end where they went through a hole in the sky (backscene) where they were wrapped round a bit of matchstick.  Then each line was strung, and each subsequent one followed the sag of the previous one. They were termi ated in a remavable piece of backscene. The poles, apart from the first o e  were all removable. At the end of a show we started with the removable piece, then took the next pole out and placed it in a carrier, with the 'wires' dropped into an o,d plastic pill container.  The carrier, with all 14 poles was then bo.ted down o to the last board fir transport.  It did work and loomed good.

 

Jamie

 

I think the problem I had was that, beause the poles were plastic, each line added a bit more tension and caused the pole to deflect slightly more.  A bit like tuning a Banjolin, if anyone's had that pleasure....

[Jesse Sim]

21 minutes ago, micklner said:

Use MJT bogies and articulated fittings .

Yes that’s what I was going to use, what ones but, the heavy duty ones? 

 

 

[grahame]

31 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

 

I should have been clearer! You glue it at the contact points (I used cyano) but if you get a drop of PVA on the thread between the posts, it hardens and shrivels, losing elasticity at that point. I guess there's just enough solvent in PVA to do harm. I've learned this the hard way...

 

15 minutes ago, jamie92208 said:

I used superglue and it worked a treat. The insulators and cross arms were white metal cast from brass masters that I'd made. The poles, which were double, were turned for me by a friend, then assembled on a jig before being planted on the layout .  The lines were strung in situ starting at the south end where they went through a hole in the sky (backscene) where they were wrapped round a bit of matchstick.  Then each line was strung, and each subsequent one followed the sag of the previous one. They were termi ated in a remavable piece of backscene. The poles, apart from the first o e  were all removable. At the end of a show we started with the removable piece, then took the next pole out and placed it in a carrier, with the 'wires' dropped into an o,d plastic pill container.  The carrier, with all 14 poles was then bo.ted down o to the last board fir transport.  It did work and loomed good.

 

Jamie

 

Thanks. Sounds like superglue it is.

 

I've got some EZ line that I was going to use for the rigging/aerials on a battleship I've been making for some time now.

 

G

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, 31A said:

 

I have seen pictures of them working on the M&GN, in fact I believe some had tablet catchers on the tenders for that purpose, but how far west they worked on that line I don't know.

 

Edit:  Just checked the RCTS Green Book, which I should have done in the first place - apparently some went to the M&GN in 1942; eventually seventeen were fitted with vac brake & steam heat for use on that line where they were 'extensively used on all types of traffic' until they were displaced by the Ivatt Class 4s - so maybe a bit before LB's period!

Thanks Steve,

 

The M&GNR bit's timescale on LB is very 'flexible', being the last decade of its existence -1949-'59 (actually, it's in 'closed-mode' at the moment, with no bridge being present). However, I've no photographic evidence of a J17 running west of South Lynn, but they might have done. Does anyone know? Evidence of D16/3s working the western section was also not-apparent, until I found pictures of two different ones, at Bourne, heading west! Anecdotal evidence even suggests an 8F at Bourne, coming in from the west, but I don't know. 

 

Which raises the question as to what should one actually model? The commonplace (which could be mundane?) or the unusual? I've got a DJH 8F kit to build, so would quite happily run it on the M&GNR bit, if it actually happened in reality. I'm building a D16/3, so that'll be one of those in the pictures mentioned (with decorative valences). As for a J17, if anyone can provide proof of their working west of Bourne, I'll order a kit!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Jesse Sim said:

Yes that’s what I was going to use, what ones but, the heavy duty ones? 

 

 

Jesse,

 

I've used the Mailcoach plastic articulated bogies on my (ex-) Coronation cars, and white metal HD ones on the outer ends; with complete success!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[stewartingram]

3 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

In my recent spate of cutting and shutting BR Mk1 coaches and DMUs I found myself short of a couple of roofs and underframes. I needed some cheap secondhand coaches so purchased two Tri-ang/Hornby Thompson coaches just for the roofs and underframes. The cut and shut bug has really caught me and I thought "What can I do with these coach sides?" "A Thompson Second (Third) Open" was the answer. I realise the limitations of the Tri-ang/Hornby sides as they are to a Mk1 profile but I still think it is worth having a go. I believed in my stash was a MJT coach roof, sadly it is a Comet so the wrong profile. As I will be having to make a new underframe, a new roof shouldn't be a problem.

 

The other day I had a play with some of the off cuts to try and improve the look of the sides. I have tried to reprofile the lower part so it looks more like an LNER profile than a BR one. What do the LNER experts think with it compared to the Tri-ang/Hornby off cut on the left.

 

Ignore the roof and underframe.....they will be going to used with a Mk1 Griddle Car I have put together from left over bits from other cut and shut exercises.

 

Is that what is known as an Open coach?

 

Stewart

[thegreenhowards]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Jesse,

 

I've used the Mailcoach plastic articulated bogies on my (ex-) Coronation cars, and white metal HD ones on the outer ends; with complete success!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

That’s more or less what I’ve done. However, if I was doing it again, I’d use the MJT 10ft CCU with the mailcoach plastic sides on the articulated bogies for extra strength. I’d also use the Comet Heavy duty 8’6” bogies rather than MJT ones as they are much better value (£8.50 instead of £12.80) and they come with brakes.

 

Andy

 

 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:

That’s more or less what I’ve done. However, if I was doing it again, I’d use the MJT 10ft CCU with the mailcoach plastic sides on the articulated bogies for extra strength. I’d also use the Comet Heavy duty 8’6” bogies rather than MJT ones as they are much better value (£8.50 instead of £12.80) and they come with brakes.

 

Andy

 

 

Thanks for that, Andy,

 

I'm sure Jesse will succeed.

 

On a non-related subject, I've just looked at a report from a prominent manufacturer claiming that the 'days of simply flicking a switch to change a signal's aspect are long-gone'. Because of DCC. 

 

I know you use DCC, and I don't, nor ever will, but what arrogance! 

 

Every main line signal on LB is operated by the flick of a simple switch - 'on' for the signal to go 'off', and vice versa. What could be simpler? 

 

When will these DCC-ites realise that their's is not the only way to operate a model railway. Long-gone? I'll bet simple on-off switches have lasted longer (and will continue to do so) and have certainly been around a lot longer than any DCC systems! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.   

[robertcwp]

18 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

All three ran beautifully. Robert took some moving footage which he says he'll post on here, including a spectacular derailment (an RTR loco, so that doesn't count!). 

 

Thank you all; to Robert and Mark for their generous monetary donations to CRUK, and to Sandra for her fantastic donation of kits to be sold on behalf or the charity and for her hospitality. 

 

What more could one ask for from a day? Wonderful friends, operating a model railway and enjoying every minute, a super lunch provided by Mo, and a pub meal in the evening!

 

 

Tony, thanks for an excellent day. 

 

As promised, here are some videos of Sandra's engines on test.

 

Firstly the Claughton, with 71000 getting in the way a bit: https://youtu.be/CU2ruXs8hbs

 

Secondly 71000: https://youtu.be/JAB54pePoso

 

46225 derailment: https://youtu.be/Vx7SEGo6a2k

 

46225 successful test run: https://youtu.be/dRkkfVT_d1M

[Chamby]

54 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks for that, Andy,

 

I'm sure Jesse will succeed.

 

On a non-related subject, I've just looked at a report from a prominent manufacturer claiming that the 'days of simply flicking a switch to change a signal's aspect are long-gone'. Because of DCC. 

 

I know you use DCC, and I don't, nor ever will, but what arrogance! 

 

Every main line signal on LB is operated by the flick of a simple switch - 'on' for the signal to go 'off', and vice versa. What could be simpler? 

 

When will these DCC-ites realise that their's is not the only way to operate a model railway. Long-gone? I'll bet simple on-off switches have lasted longer (and will continue to do so) and have certainly been around a lot longer than any DCC systems! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.   

 

This week I have been installing surface mounted Cobalt-SS turnout motors from DCC Concepts, on a club layout.  Neat little things, though they look a little delicate so I will be interested to see how durable they are.  The control unit is very well thought through: as well as having a manual throw adjustor, it includes connections for a SPDT changeover switch, indicator LED’s, live frog polarity changing and... a momentary ‘push to make’ switch, as used in conventional control panels.  So using these, you can build a conventional control panel integrated with a DCC system!

 

I initially wondered, why bother with using DCC at all if you are wiring in an analogue control panel, but then realised that you can also change every point using the accessory function on a wireless DCC handset, even if you are working on the opposite side of the layout to the control panel.  So it is genuinely a dual control system:

 

 

 

 

The bottom picture shows the control unit wired for dcc use only, with live frog turnouts (blue wire goes to the frog).   ‘Mom switch’ connectors are for optional ‘push to make’ switches, and LED connections for direction indication.  

 

So not all DCC manufacturers see analogue controls as being consigned to history!

[t-b-g]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks for that, Andy,

 

I'm sure Jesse will succeed.

 

On a non-related subject, I've just looked at a report from a prominent manufacturer claiming that the 'days of simply flicking a switch to change a signal's aspect are long-gone'. Because of DCC. 

 

I know you use DCC, and I don't, nor ever will, but what arrogance! 

 

Every main line signal on LB is operated by the flick of a simple switch - 'on' for the signal to go 'off', and vice versa. What could be simpler? 

 

When will these DCC-ites realise that their's is not the only way to operate a model railway. Long-gone? I'll bet simple on-off switches have lasted longer (and will continue to do so) and have certainly been around a lot longer than any DCC systems! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.   

 

Flicking a switch? That sounds like electricity, motors and stuff. Far too complex. How about a sliding block of wood, a bit of string and a rubber band or a spring to return the signal to danger?

 

The signals on Buckingham have worked like that for over 70 years now. If they go wrong (which none of them that I have got rigged up have yet) I will know exactly how to sort it out.

 

Cheep, reliable, very "touchy feely" and just like the real thing. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, robertcwp said:

Tony, thanks for an excellent day. 

 

As promised, here are some videos of Sandra's engines on test.

 

Firstly the Claughton, with 71000 getting in the way a bit: https://youtu.be/CU2ruXs8hbs

 

Secondly 71000: https://youtu.be/JAB54pePoso

 

46225 derailment: https://youtu.be/Vx7SEGo6a2k

 

46225 successful test run: https://youtu.be/dRkkfVT_d1M

Thanks Robert, 

 

The bouncing off at that single slip by the Hornby 'Semi' was very exciting. I think the problem was caused by those really fat bogie wheels (common in size/profile to all Hornby locos). OK on Peco track, or a poorly-laid road, but struggling a bit over 'scale' OO turnouts and crossings. Sandra says she'll replace them. 

 

I was surprised at how well it hauled that fairly-heavy load. In comparison, Hornby's LNER Pacifics usually just polish the rails. Clearly there are differences in RTR locos' haulage abilities even those of a similar size. 

 

I should have asked you to video that new K1 fitted with the new DJH gearbox. A larger one is arriving tomorrow, which I'll put into a Pacific. I'll report accordingly.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Chamby said:

 

This week I have been installing surface mounted Cobalt-SS turnout motors from DCC Concepts, on a club layout.  Neat little things, though they look a little delicate so I will be interested to see how durable they are.  The control unit is very well thought through: as well as having a manual throw adjustor, it includes connections for a SPDT changeover switch, indicator LED’s, live frog polarity changing and... a momentary ‘push to make’ switch, as used in conventional control panels.  So using these, you can build a conventional control panel integrated with a DCC system!

 

I initially wondered, why bother with using DCC at all if you are wiring in an analogue control panel, but then realised that you can also change every point using the accessory function on a wireless DCC handset, even if you are working on the opposite side of the layout to the control panel.  So it is genuinely a dual control system:

 

 

 

 

The bottom picture shows the control unit wired for dcc use only, with live frog turnouts (blue wire goes to the frog).   ‘Mom switch’ connectors are for optional ‘push to make’ switches, and LED connections for direction indication.  

 

So not all DCC manufacturers see analogue controls as being consigned to history!

Thanks Phil,

 

 'as well as having a manual throw adjustor, it includes connections for a SPDT changeover switch, indicator LED’s, live frog polarity changing and... a momentary ‘push to make’ switch'

 

' ‘Mom switch’ connectors are for optional ‘push to make’ switches, and LED connections for direction indication'

 

I now know another reason why I'll never touch DCC. I don't understand any of it! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

[Clive Mortimore]

6 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Phil,

 

 'as well as having a manual throw adjustor, it includes connections for a SPDT changeover switch, indicator LED’s, live frog polarity changing and... a momentary ‘push to make’ switch'

 

' ‘Mom switch’ connectors are for optional ‘push to make’ switches, and LED connections for direction indication'

 

I now know another reason why I'll never touch DCC. I don't understand any of it! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

Hello Tony

 

It sounds like it is only one step up from stud contact.

 

 

Switches for sections, and stud contact for point changing, oddly it works. There are also switches for the signals but these are still in their box waiting installment. 

[sandra]

20 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I've just spent a truly wonderful day in the company of good friends Sandra Orpen, Robert Carroll and Mark Jenkins, talking trains and operating LB. The layout worked fine, they did, but it's a pity I'm such a dud operator!

 

Sandra brought some goodies to run.....................

 

 

She built this DJH Claughton.

 

 

She bought this DJH DoG from Hattons' second-hand dept, for £60.00!

 

 

And she bought this Mallard 517 Class off a second-hand stall at one Scaleforum or Expo (I've forgotten the price). 

 

All three ran beautifully. Robert took some moving footage which he says he'll post on here, including a spectacular derailment (an RTR loco, so that doesn't count!). 

 

Thank you all; to Robert and Mark for their generous monetary donations to CRUK, and to Sandra for her fantastic donation of kits to be sold on behalf or the charity and for her hospitality. 

 

What more could one ask for from a day? Wonderful friends, operating a model railway and enjoying every minute, a super lunch provided by Mo, and a pub meal in the evening!

 

 

Tony,

 

Thank you to both you and Mo for a really wonderful day. The railway, as always, worked beautifully and the only problem was the rather dramatic derailment of the Duchess. I will have to change the bogie wheels for I think that these were at fault.

 

The Claughton is very much “work in progress” for there are lots of details yet to be added and she needs various minor modifications. However I was very pleased by her performance, she has a Mashima motor and High Level gearbox, a combination I have always found to work well. I will try to complete and paint her once I’ve decided what the livery will be. The last Claughtons with the small boiler were withdrawn in 1935 and I will probably paint her in LMS red livery as she would have been just before withdrawal.

 

I did not build the Duke of Gloucester so I cannot claim any credit for this locomotive but I was impressed by the performance, however I did think your photograph emphasised the poor condition of the paintwork and therefore I may repaint her. However I fear the body may have been glued together and therefore if I do strip off the paint it might fall apart and I end up with a Duke of Gloucester body kit to build.

 

The 517 class was bought from the “bring and buy” stall at Scaleforum some years ago for £30, it ran OK but the noise she made was terrible and she could achieve a scale speed I would guess of over 100 MPH. The locomotive has a D11 type motor but there is no gearbox or even a motor mount, the worm driving directly onto the gear wheel. I will therefore fit a more modern motor with a gearbox. I will probably use a High Level gearbox as I have always found them to be excellent and I will probably repaint her.

 

I think all three of us enjoyed the day immensely and I therefore once again wish to thank you and Mo for your marvellous hospitality.

 

Sandra

[Tony Wright]

16 minutes ago, sandra said:

Tony,

 

Thank you to both you and Mo for a really wonderful day. The railway, as always, worked beautifully and the only problem was the rather dramatic derailment of the Duchess. I will have to change the bogie wheels for I think that these were at fault.

 

The Claughton is very much “work in progress” for there are lots of details yet to be added and she needs various minor modifications. However I was very pleased by her performance, she has a Mashima motor and High Level gearbox, a combination I have always found to work well. I will try to complete and paint her once I’ve decided what the livery will be. The last Claughtons with the small boiler were withdrawn in 1935 and I will probably paint her in LMS red livery as she would have been just before withdrawal.

 

I did not build the Duke of Gloucester so I cannot claim any credit for this locomotive but I was impressed by the performance, however I did think your photograph emphasised the poor condition of the paintwork and therefore I may repaint her. However I fear the body may have been glued together and therefore if I do strip off the paint it might fall apart and I end up with a Duke of Gloucester body kit to build.

 

The 517 class was bought from the “bring and buy” stall at Scaleforum some years ago for £30, it ran OK but the noise she made was terrible and she could achieve a scale speed I would guess of over 100 MPH. The locomotive has a D11 type motor but there is no gearbox or even a motor mount, the worm driving directly onto the gear wheel. I will therefore fit a more modern motor with a gearbox. I will probably use a High Level gearbox as I have always found them to be excellent and I will probably repaint her.

 

I think all three of us enjoyed the day immensely and I therefore once again wish to thank you and Mo for your marvellous hospitality.

 

Sandra

Sandra,

 

Many thanks. I'll pass your thanks on to Mo. 

 

I'm glad you got home safely. 

 

I really enjoyed the day, though I wish I could operate the trainset properly. I liked your driving of the Down trains - Bill Hoole reincarnate!

 

Thanks as well for your most-generous donation of models to sell for CRUK. 

 

Kind regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hello Tony

 

It sounds like it is only one step up from stud contact.

 

 

Switches for sections, and stud contact for point changing, oddly it works. There are also switches for the signals but these are still in their box waiting installment. 

I've got stud-contact to operate the fiddle yard points, Clive.

 

Is that sophisticated electrickery?

 

Regards,

 

Tony.