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Wright writes.....


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1 hour ago, polybear said:

 

The only thing you haven't mentioned is flux...

I always use flux . I am doing my normal technique and it is just not responding as normal. I have never known a tip to refuse solder once it has melted it.

it has totally perplexed me. 

Richard

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4 minutes ago, richard i said:

I always use flux . I am doing my normal technique and it is just not responding as normal. I have never known a tip to refuse solder once it has melted it.

it has totally perplexed me. 

Richard

 

Is it a plated tip that has lost its plating?

 

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2 hours ago, richard i said:

Quiz question if I can to all who solder.

i have fired up my temperature controlled iron after a 6 month hiatus. It would not solder joins. Why?

i thought it was the heat setting, tried hotter and colder it did not affect it. 

I tried changing the tip

i changed the solder and tried low melt too.

i cleaned the brass with a file.

all it would do was melt the solder into small balls but the iron would not tin or pick it up. 

If I fed the solder on to the brass it struggled to flow. 

 

Any ideas what what am I doing wrong? 

Many thanks

Richard .

Its odd that it is happening on different tips ?

 

I had this with one of my tips and I managed to sort it by using Powerflow flux. First I put the tip into the powerflow and let it sizzle for a while. I then put a decent blob onto the solder itself and melted the solder through the flux and this seemed to do the trick allowing me to re tin the tip. .... might be worth a try.

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Back in the summer I posted some pictures of my under-construction SE&CR E1 class. The loco has now moved through the paint shop (Railmatch light olive) and awaits only lining, lettering, and final details:

 

E1.jpg.9a5e389dd2524f5571cd20a7c6f5ae36.jpg

 

Al

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18 minutes ago, richard i said:

I thought that might be it, so I changed the tip and changed the solder after it still did it.  Problem continued.

richard

Hi Richard

 

Take it down the club on Monday night I am sure Jim will fix it.

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2 hours ago, richard i said:

Quiz question if I can to all who solder.

i have fired up my temperature controlled iron after a 6 month hiatus. It would not solder joins. Why?

i thought it was the heat setting, tried hotter and colder it did not affect it. 

I tried changing the tip

i changed the solder and tried low melt too.

i cleaned the brass with a file.

all it would do was melt the solder into small balls but the iron would not tin or pick it up. 

If I fed the solder on to the brass it struggled to flow. 

 

Any ideas what what am I doing wrong? 

Many thanks

Richard .

 

Silly question Richard, since all of the sensible ones have been asked:  Is your unit set to 110V US or 220V EU?

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10 hours ago, Lecorbusier said:

Thought I would  post an update on where I have got to on my first etched loco kit attempt .... the Craftsman 1F 0-6-0 tank (I have built an etched wagon and etched 3 wheel coach prior to this). Compared to Sir, the progress is shall we say leisurely !!!!  :blush: .... but then all of this is pretty new to me and I can't dedicate as much time as I would like to modelling. The upside is that it is a great way of unwinding after a busy or stressful day :victory:

 

As I am working to P4, the craftsman chassis was no good, so I am working from a pair of Gibson milled frames .... in the end the only parts of the original kit I have used for the chassis are the cast white metal sandboxes. I am using this as my first bash at CSB springing and have decided to have a go at building it as a set of sub assemblies so I can take it apart for painting and maintenance... the wheels drop out by sliding the CSB wire out of the horn-block tags.

 

Here are the various assemblies. The brake gear springs into the capillary tubes set into the frames and the sand pipes locate into holes set in the base of the sand boxes. The ashpan and spring etches were kindly sent to me by John Redrup at LRM from his spares/scrap bin. I have made them into two separate assemblies which bolt directly to the chassis. The gear box is a high-level offering and the horizontal in line restraint a design suggested by Dave Bradwell. The horn blocks and guides are also by High Level.

1844984452_1f0-6-0T_Brakegearassembled-complete-4small.jpg.e59f926acba0e33c462d6ac5ca19cb45.jpg

Here is a picture of everything assembled onto the chassis - I notice from the photo that the pull rods at the back need a tweak to set them level :unsure:... luckily this is easily done. The coupling rods are the universal inside motion etch which Dave Franks has recently added to his arsenal.

1100531233_1f0-6-0T_Brakegearassembled-complete-6small.jpg.761f794b5ef315e22b3379f987d3206a.jpg

And finally a couple of pictures with the body ... as far as I have currently got ... mounted on the chassis. In the second pic the chimney, dome etc have just been loosely placed in position. A bit rough here and there ... but overall I think its ok .... the photos are pretty unforgiving - which is why I find the work posted here by experienced modellers so inspirational. :good:

2022800634_1f0-6-0T_Brakegearassembled-complete-7small.jpg.58af6bd8a859b96a45b0d9c29c41677e.jpg386478737_1f0-6-0T_Brakegearassembled-complete-8small.jpg.3cdbe238b5023bb1a571d4f7bcddda39.jpg

If this is your first etched locomotive kit, Tim,

 

Then all I can say is 'wonderful work'.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

If this is your first etched locomotive kit, Tim,

 

Then all I can say is 'wonderful work'.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thanks Tony ... that means a lot.

 

Of course I don't post all the mistakes and cock ups I have had to undo on the way :unsure:... just those pictures when I have got to a stage that I am happy to move forward with. :victory:It is the 3rd set of coupling rods, the frames have been together twice to ensure no binding and there were a few different attempts at the sub assemblies ... but all is running smoothly now! :good:It will all be quicker and easier the next time round ..... hopefully.:dance_mini:

 

List of my builds to date:-

 

A Nucast Y7 - first bought in 1991 and returned to in 2014 on discovering the Right track videos ... not a great outcome but I keep it none the less.

DJH Barney ... which I have posted before.

51L, MR Diagram 351 8T Open Goods Wagon in white metal

Mousa  MR 7 plank wagon in etched brass

51L 6 wheel Clayton 3rd in etched brass.

MR D299 scratch built from Plasticard

MR 3 plank wagon scratch built from plasticard.

 

.... And I have now started the Johnson 1F above.

1f_0-6-0_T___Brake_gear_assembled_-complete_-_1_(1).jpg.b33b6a2118ae6dcaa852484586e12eef.jpg

...... That's the lot so far .... at this rate I shall be dead before I have enough stock for Monsaldale :sarcastichand:

Edited by Lecorbusier
Added list of builds to date
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36 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

It's been decided that the LB pictures in the BRILL model railway supplement will be in B&W, it being more in keeping with 'Those Black & White Days'. 

 

So, they'll look like this (a selection). 

 

2143846424_LittleBytham0860156onDownFlyingScotsman.jpg.790883a3460d8d013991c379f68e7d51.jpg

 

1019945434_LittleBytham0960156close-upthreequarter.jpg.f3f5c079c2068bbe4ffa1c16453510cf.jpg

 

1415095173_LittleBytham114FonMGNR.jpg.931709909e478233f3cb5bcac02545af.jpg

 

730353929_QueenofScots02.jpg.8e02ee9fb69396d4d90296d11b0d54f0.jpg

 

I hope readers will find it of interest.................

 

 

Good Evening Tony 

 

Your  photos above look superb in Black & White, very realistic especially in my opinion the going away photo of the A1 Class.
 

Looking forward to seeing the supplement when it’s issued 

 

indecently the Pacific Models smokebox printed sheets arrived and already applied to my PDK A2/1 which I have recently renamed 60510 Robert The Bruce plus to other models as well. 

 

Regards

 

David

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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks for that David,

 

It's very kind of you.

 

I'm inclined to agree about the 'appeal' of B&W images, especially as they're far more redolent of the period depicted by LB than colour. That being the case, perhaps a few more? 

 

Most of these will already have appeared in colour, though I'm interested to hear what others think. 

 

277626590_16216V2s.jpg.e98fbc82c8f7120c7029cd3fd78c4476.jpg

 

60077.jpg.546951464578493c91b94590c1a3ca8b.jpg

 

60501.jpg.f0a6e233d7408a722f16a458f192cfa8.jpg

 

60513.jpg.58756fd68f7f9878d511b0bc31cdd688.jpg

 

60516.jpg.32babe05539c02a68708c332f6977f9e.jpg

 

1173189298_A1DJH60156GREATCENTRAL01.jpg.707bf11ad47cac2b2e4dbb26202f0f86.jpg

 

702256868_A1DJH60156GREATCENTRAL03.jpg.7a7eb43304ef05951ac25e3f1334ffae.jpg

 

716561669_A2260504onDownFlyingScotsman.jpg.ebb3455d037e2c3b35765c4cd7cb0abc.jpg

 

1922853342_CrownlineV260800GA.jpg.0ba185cb9c5e816dc1667ec3408fbaf5.jpg

 

1800543761_Elizabethan02.jpg.ef832758b07bde94df894900caeb5c29.jpg

 

1165094215_Nu-CastV260943.jpg.a63eb4c49f01e8b473ca3f145c6279e1.jpg

 

1778628798_V260982onfittedgoods02.jpg.022cef7d18e497626800017423ef5ffa.jpg

 

971877973_V260982onfittedgoods03.jpg.ec2ac145d670a1133eb6c4cd1d2185dd.jpg

 

I hope you like the Pacific Models' front 'plates. Will you show us pictures of them on your models, please?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Hi Tony

 

Yes thank you I am very pleased with the Pacific Models front number plates, I also like the additional B/W images you have posted as well.

 

I enclose a photo of my PDK A2/1 60510 Robert the Bruce, which I have just recently renamed and renumbered previously being 60509 Waverley.

 

The remainder of locomotives in the background are all either Hornby or Bachmann RTR models, with the exception of A2/3 60521Watling Street which is a Bachmann/Graeme King conversion.

 

I also had a go at a Black and White version of the same photo, but I am not sure about this one for some unknown reason, maybe it needs a little adjustment in Photoshop to bring out the monochrome qualities. 

 

Regards

 

David

60510_IMG_0001B.jpg

60510_IMG_0001BW.jpg

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2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

......

I'm inclined to agree about the 'appeal' of B&W images, especially as they're far more redolent of the period depicted by LB than colour. That being the case, perhaps a few more? 

 

Most of these will already have appeared in colour, though I'm interested to hear what others think. 

......

 

 

 

Are you sharing your model of the real thing, or trying to replicate a photographer’s record of the real thing to share with us?  

 

The real thing had colour, so It’s colour every time, for me.

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As well as playing with the contrast, one of the things I have done when converting colour to B&W is to experiment to simulate the effects of orthochromatic film, e.g. Victorian and Edwardian photographs with union flags make the red look much darker than the navy.  Another effect is the simulated use of colour filters - do you remember using yellow filters to enhance clouds - by adjusting the colour channels?  These only go so far though.  The geometry and resolution of the large format cameras of yesteryear cannot be replicated easily, nor can the fact that many photographs taken in the mid-twentieth century were taken from waist level rather than eye level. 

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15 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

If Jim can't fix it, when you come over here bring it with you.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Richard didn't bring his soldering iron to the club so it was down to suggestions much as on here.

 

Also mentioned was perhaps he had been sold one with an aluminium bit!

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