richard i Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 1 hour ago, polybear said: The only thing you haven't mentioned is flux... I always use flux . I am doing my normal technique and it is just not responding as normal. I have never known a tip to refuse solder once it has melted it. it has totally perplexed me. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted December 1, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2019 4 minutes ago, richard i said: I always use flux . I am doing my normal technique and it is just not responding as normal. I have never known a tip to refuse solder once it has melted it. it has totally perplexed me. Richard Is it a plated tip that has lost its plating? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecorbusier Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 2 hours ago, richard i said: Quiz question if I can to all who solder. i have fired up my temperature controlled iron after a 6 month hiatus. It would not solder joins. Why? i thought it was the heat setting, tried hotter and colder it did not affect it. I tried changing the tip i changed the solder and tried low melt too. i cleaned the brass with a file. all it would do was melt the solder into small balls but the iron would not tin or pick it up. If I fed the solder on to the brass it struggled to flow. Any ideas what what am I doing wrong? Many thanks Richard . Its odd that it is happening on different tips ? I had this with one of my tips and I managed to sort it by using Powerflow flux. First I put the tip into the powerflow and let it sizzle for a while. I then put a decent blob onto the solder itself and melted the solder through the flux and this seemed to do the trick allowing me to re tin the tip. .... might be worth a try. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 1 minute ago, 31A said: Is it a plated tip that has lost its plating? I thought that might be it, so I changed the tip and changed the solder after it still did it. Problem continued. richard 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted December 1, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 1, 2019 Back in the summer I posted some pictures of my under-construction SE&CR E1 class. The loco has now moved through the paint shop (Railmatch light olive) and awaits only lining, lettering, and final details: Al 16 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted December 1, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2019 18 minutes ago, richard i said: I thought that might be it, so I changed the tip and changed the solder after it still did it. Problem continued. richard Hi Richard Take it down the club on Monday night I am sure Jim will fix it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Hayter Posted December 1, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2019 2 hours ago, richard i said: Quiz question if I can to all who solder. i have fired up my temperature controlled iron after a 6 month hiatus. It would not solder joins. Why? i thought it was the heat setting, tried hotter and colder it did not affect it. I tried changing the tip i changed the solder and tried low melt too. i cleaned the brass with a file. all it would do was melt the solder into small balls but the iron would not tin or pick it up. If I fed the solder on to the brass it struggled to flow. Any ideas what what am I doing wrong? Many thanks Richard . Silly question Richard, since all of the sensible ones have been asked: Is your unit set to 110V US or 220V EU? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 1 hour ago, Lecorbusier said: (I have built an etched wagon and etched 3 wheel coach prior to this). The latter sounds interesting 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lecorbusier Posted December 1, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 1, 2019 (edited) 10 minutes ago, richbrummitt said: The latter sounds interesting Etched wagon and etched clayton coach behind DJH Barney painted in Midland colours as a trial painting experiment. Edited December 1, 2019 by Lecorbusier 19 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 8 hours ago, Andy Hayter said: Silly question Richard, since all of the sensible ones have been asked: Is your unit set to 110V US or 220V EU? 240 uk and it worked here before I left and over there for low melt solder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 9 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said: Hi Richard Take it down the club on Monday night I am sure Jim will fix it. I was warned about Jim I’ll fix it! 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 10 hours ago, Lecorbusier said: Thought I would post an update on where I have got to on my first etched loco kit attempt .... the Craftsman 1F 0-6-0 tank (I have built an etched wagon and etched 3 wheel coach prior to this). Compared to Sir, the progress is shall we say leisurely !!!! .... but then all of this is pretty new to me and I can't dedicate as much time as I would like to modelling. The upside is that it is a great way of unwinding after a busy or stressful day As I am working to P4, the craftsman chassis was no good, so I am working from a pair of Gibson milled frames .... in the end the only parts of the original kit I have used for the chassis are the cast white metal sandboxes. I am using this as my first bash at CSB springing and have decided to have a go at building it as a set of sub assemblies so I can take it apart for painting and maintenance... the wheels drop out by sliding the CSB wire out of the horn-block tags. Here are the various assemblies. The brake gear springs into the capillary tubes set into the frames and the sand pipes locate into holes set in the base of the sand boxes. The ashpan and spring etches were kindly sent to me by John Redrup at LRM from his spares/scrap bin. I have made them into two separate assemblies which bolt directly to the chassis. The gear box is a high-level offering and the horizontal in line restraint a design suggested by Dave Bradwell. The horn blocks and guides are also by High Level. Here is a picture of everything assembled onto the chassis - I notice from the photo that the pull rods at the back need a tweak to set them level ... luckily this is easily done. The coupling rods are the universal inside motion etch which Dave Franks has recently added to his arsenal. And finally a couple of pictures with the body ... as far as I have currently got ... mounted on the chassis. In the second pic the chimney, dome etc have just been loosely placed in position. A bit rough here and there ... but overall I think its ok .... the photos are pretty unforgiving - which is why I find the work posted here by experienced modellers so inspirational. If this is your first etched locomotive kit, Tim, Then all I can say is 'wonderful work'. Regards, Tony. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 45 minutes ago, richard i said: I was warned about Jim I’ll fix it! If Jim can't fix it, when you come over here bring it with you. Regards, Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecorbusier Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, Tony Wright said: If this is your first etched locomotive kit, Tim, Then all I can say is 'wonderful work'. Regards, Tony. Thanks Tony ... that means a lot. Of course I don't post all the mistakes and cock ups I have had to undo on the way ... just those pictures when I have got to a stage that I am happy to move forward with. It is the 3rd set of coupling rods, the frames have been together twice to ensure no binding and there were a few different attempts at the sub assemblies ... but all is running smoothly now! It will all be quicker and easier the next time round ..... hopefully. List of my builds to date:- A Nucast Y7 - first bought in 1991 and returned to in 2014 on discovering the Right track videos ... not a great outcome but I keep it none the less. DJH Barney ... which I have posted before. 51L, MR Diagram 351 8T Open Goods Wagon in white metal Mousa MR 7 plank wagon in etched brass 51L 6 wheel Clayton 3rd in etched brass. MR D299 scratch built from Plasticard MR 3 plank wagon scratch built from plasticard. .... And I have now started the Johnson 1F above. ...... That's the lot so far .... at this rate I shall be dead before I have enough stock for Monsaldale Edited December 2, 2019 by Lecorbusier Added list of builds to date 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted December 2, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 2, 2019 It might be of interest to some, but British Railways Illustrated now has a railway modelling section attached inside. I've been asked to submit a piece for this, describing some of the trains seen running on Little Bytham. Including this one, the 'Queen of Scots'. It'll feature in the next issue, with a comment to link it to the next issue of the RM. Joined-up thinking? With me involved, I doubt it! 23 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted December 2, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 2, 2019 It's been decided that the LB pictures in the BRILL model railway supplement will be in B&W, it being more in keeping with 'Those Black & White Days'. So, they'll look like this (a selection). I hope readers will find it of interest................. 29 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
landscapes Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 36 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: It's been decided that the LB pictures in the BRILL model railway supplement will be in B&W, it being more in keeping with 'Those Black & White Days'. So, they'll look like this (a selection). I hope readers will find it of interest................. Good Evening Tony Your photos above look superb in Black & White, very realistic especially in my opinion the going away photo of the A1 Class. Looking forward to seeing the supplement when it’s issued indecently the Pacific Models smokebox printed sheets arrived and already applied to my PDK A2/1 which I have recently renamed 60510 Robert The Bruce plus to other models as well. Regards David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted December 2, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 2, 2019 1 hour ago, landscapes said: Good Evening Tony Your photos above look superb in Black & White, very realistic especially in my opinion the going away photo of the A1 Class. Looking forward to seeing the supplement when it’s issued indecently the Pacific Models smokebox printed sheets arrived and already applied to my PDK A2/1 which I have recently renamed 60510 Robert The Bruce plus to other models as well. Regards David Thanks for that David, It's very kind of you. I'm inclined to agree about the 'appeal' of B&W images, especially as they're far more redolent of the period depicted by LB than colour. That being the case, perhaps a few more? Most of these will already have appeared in colour, though I'm interested to hear what others think. I hope you like the Pacific Models' front 'plates. Will you show us pictures of them on your models, please? Regards, Tony. 28 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
landscapes Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 1 hour ago, Tony Wright said: Thanks for that David, It's very kind of you. I'm inclined to agree about the 'appeal' of B&W images, especially as they're far more redolent of the period depicted by LB than colour. That being the case, perhaps a few more? Most of these will already have appeared in colour, though I'm interested to hear what others think. I hope you like the Pacific Models' front 'plates. Will you show us pictures of them on your models, please? Regards, Tony. Hi Tony Yes thank you I am very pleased with the Pacific Models front number plates, I also like the additional B/W images you have posted as well. I enclose a photo of my PDK A2/1 60510 Robert the Bruce, which I have just recently renamed and renumbered previously being 60509 Waverley. The remainder of locomotives in the background are all either Hornby or Bachmann RTR models, with the exception of A2/3 60521Watling Street which is a Bachmann/Graeme King conversion. I also had a go at a Black and White version of the same photo, but I am not sure about this one for some unknown reason, maybe it needs a little adjustment in Photoshop to bring out the monochrome qualities. Regards David 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chamby Posted December 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 2, 2019 2 hours ago, Tony Wright said: ...... I'm inclined to agree about the 'appeal' of B&W images, especially as they're far more redolent of the period depicted by LB than colour. That being the case, perhaps a few more? Most of these will already have appeared in colour, though I'm interested to hear what others think. ...... Are you sharing your model of the real thing, or trying to replicate a photographer’s record of the real thing to share with us? The real thing had colour, so It’s colour every time, for me. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 Re: B&W photos Tony, perhaps a tad more contrast. They look too grey (y) to me. My recollection of prototype photos is that they were more Black and White than 50 shades of grey. Have a play and see what you think. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahame Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 The upgrade to some Farish N/2mm 4-wheel coaches is starting to drag on a bit . . . . . . . . . . apologies. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam88 Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 As well as playing with the contrast, one of the things I have done when converting colour to B&W is to experiment to simulate the effects of orthochromatic film, e.g. Victorian and Edwardian photographs with union flags make the red look much darker than the navy. Another effect is the simulated use of colour filters - do you remember using yellow filters to enhance clouds - by adjusting the colour channels? These only go so far though. The geometry and resolution of the large format cameras of yesteryear cannot be replicated easily, nor can the fact that many photographs taken in the mid-twentieth century were taken from waist level rather than eye level. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted December 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 2, 2019 B&W was more contrasty especially if Tri-X was used. My best ever colour piccies were from home developed C41. Favourite film was colour slide. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimwal Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 15 hours ago, Tony Wright said: If Jim can't fix it, when you come over here bring it with you. Regards, Tony. Richard didn't bring his soldering iron to the club so it was down to suggestions much as on here. Also mentioned was perhaps he had been sold one with an aluminium bit! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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