Wright writes.....

[micklner]

12 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Mick,

 

I do that.

 

I have to say, other than their ease and speed of use, I'm not a great user of waterslide transfers, preferring 'Pressfix' or 'Methfix' types, because of the 'halo' inherent with the carrying film. 

 

But then, perhaps I'm not applying them properly.....

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Tony

      I agree re Pressfix useage as a prefered decal, I cannot get on with Methfix however, I find them a real pain to position and avoid like the plague.

     I use Microsol on Pressfix as well, if appling the decal on a uneven surface, or Microset which is the stronger solution if needed too.

 

cheers

 

Mick

[uax6]

Colin Parks used to remove the carrier for the transfers that he used on his excellent models, I will have to see if I can find his method in one of his posts.....

 

Andy G

[Erichill16]

Thanks to both Jonathan and Trusrtykev for their  informative replies. I think I’ve seen some nice pictures of chained containers on conflats, Clems I think. Something to aspire to.

regards Robert

 

[Tony Wright]

As promised,

 

Shots taken of Little Bytham goods shed by Ian Wilson in 1972...........

 

Though not all taken on the same day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 17, 2020 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[uax6]

Finally found something by Colin Parks that's shows how to remove that film:

 

 

I'd be careful about wetting the back of Modelmaster decal sheets with white spirit as it is a solvent for the carrier film over the top of the transfer. When white spirit comes into contact with the carrier film it could well turn it to a gel-like consistency. This is a very useful thing when the transfer is on the model (i.e you can remove the carrier film) but you don't want a gooey mess beforehand!

 

Regards,

 

Colin Parks

 

And another post:

 

You mentioned trouble with the silvering effect ontransfers in one of the posts. Well, here is something that might be of interest: I have found out that with Modelmaster transfers (and this might work for other makes) that the carrier film can be removed with a little white spirit on a fine brush - once the transfer has dried out over night. I discovered this when actually attempting to bed-in some transfers which had not adhered too well. The film turned to a gel-like consistency when it came into contact with the white spirit and could be taken off with the tip of the brush leaving the transfer behind. It seems that the adhesive of the transfer is not affected by this technique (and I am talking about small amounts of spirit applied with a 000 brush). You have to varnish over the area afterwards in the normal way of course, but the difference is worth the effort.

 

This method has worked even with tiny lettering and it doesn't affect the paint finish - as long as the paint is not fresh and you don't scrub madly at the area around the transfer.

 

Colin Parks

 

I have no idea if it works on other makes, but it might be worth a try!

 

Andy G

[St Enodoc]

1 hour ago, micklner said:

I agree re Pressfix useage as a prefered decal, I cannot get on with Methfix

Interesting. Given a choice I go for Methfix.

[Theakerr]

21 hours ago, micklner said:

For anyone who is'nt already aware.

 

Add Microsol to the surface of the decal , it will the settle into the grooves and flatten onto the main surface of the model. Once dry then seal with the prefered varnish.

See my comment about Microsol and a (water based) tender lining decal that curled up on itself (long direction) in my post on my A2 finish

[micklner]

1 hour ago, Theakerr said:

See my comment about Microsol and a (water based) tender lining decal that curled up on itself (long direction) in my post on my A2 finish

What make ? Old or new decals ? In water too long ?

[micklner]

11 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Interesting. Given a choice I go for Methfix.

What is the advantage of Methfix ?

 

Pressfix easy to adjust before wetting the paper and stay in place when the paper releases.

 

Methfix my experience, they takes ages to release from the paper and then move all over the place when they finally release from the paper or they refuse to move at all when the paper releases ? Dont try use them on top Acrylic varnish because the Meths melts the Acrylic , one guess how I found that one out !!

[Paul Cram]

I prefer methfix. Wetting and then adjusting before pressing down I find them easy to place. Much cleaner finish when backing taken off.

[Jesse Sim]

Very pleased with how this photo turned out. The leading vehicle is a DS NER luggage brake, my first brass kit I built only a year or so ago, I know I am missing a few bits of it, they are on the to do list. More photos on the Brighton Junction thread. 

[Tony Wright]

5 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Very pleased with how this photo turned out. The leading vehicle is a DS NER luggage brake, my first brass kit I built only a year or so ago, I know I am missing a few bits of it, they are on the to do list. More photos on the Brighton Junction thread. 

Lovely stuff, Jesse,

 

Thanks for posting. 

 

However, please paint those coach roofs grey/black. 

 

And now for something completely different! 

 

 

 

My ignorance of this particular loco was absolute. It's a London Brighton & South Coast Railway 'Dieppe' Class 2-2-2 (has such a thing ever appeared before on RMweb?), built in EM Gauge. 

 

It was lined (though not painted) by Geoff Haynes, and I've taken pictures of it for his portfolio.

 

I thought I'd share them on here.........

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

 

 

[Compound2632]

20 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

(has such a thing ever appeared before on RMweb?),

 

 

O ye of little faith:

There's a kit for it: http://www.mjwsjw.co.uk/ex_craven_singles.html

 

[2750Papyrus]

On ‎17‎/‎02‎/‎2020 at 08:23, Tony Wright said:

As promised,

 

Shots taken of Little Bytham goods shed by Ian Wilson in 1972...........

 

Though not all taken on the same day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks very much for posting those images, just what I wanted to know. 

 

What a substantial structure this goods shed was, for a comparatively small wayside station.  It is pity it was demolished having initially survived the closure, but at least we can preserve it in our models.

 

I am afraid my detailing won't include the broken windows and the boxes and sacks, etc, stacked round the building but what character they would add.

[Jesse Sim]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Lovely stuff, Jesse,

 

Thanks for posting. 

 

However, please paint those coach roofs grey/black. 

 

And now for something completely different! 

 

 

 

My ignorance of this particular loco was absolute. It's a London Brighton & South Coast Railway 'Dieppe' Class 2-2-2 (has such a thing ever appeared before on RMweb?), built in EM Gauge. 

 

It was lined (though not painted) by Geoff Haynes, and I've taken pictures of it for his portfolio.

 

I thought I'd share them on here.........

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

 

 

They are on my big to do list, as well as buying lamps. I thought you would have spotted that first...

[St Enodoc]

14 hours ago, micklner said:

What is the advantage of Methfix ?

 

Pressfix easy to adjust before wetting the paper and stay in place when the paper releases.

 

Methfix my experience, they takes ages to release from the paper and then move all over the place when they finally release from the paper or they refuse to move at all when the paper releases ? Dont try use them on top Acrylic varnish because the Meths melts the Acrylic , one guess how I found that one out !!

 

14 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

I prefer methfix. Wetting and then adjusting before pressing down I find them easy to place. Much cleaner finish when backing taken off.

Same as Paul. Much easier to see what you're doing before pressing down. I've never found that they move about if you leave them long enough before soaking the paper off. I seem to find the printing finer and flatter too. I don't generally use acrylics but if I do I'll remember the tip about meths!

[Anglian]

I have limited experience of Methfix but I like working with waterslide. I can design the decals on my computer and have a sheet printed. This way all the alignment and kerning (letter spacing) is all done precisely then it's a case of applying one decal. Being waterslide you have an endless amount of time to get it positioned exactly. Using both Micro Set and Micro Sol gives a perfect result, that when done well looks as if the decal has actually been painted on the surface.

 

I tend to notice when lettering isn't straight, well spaced or the baselines aren't correct. For example, the base of a cursive character eg an 'S' will sit slightly lower than a letter with a straight lower stroke like an 'L'. Using waterslide in the way I've described solves these problems.

 

Edited February 18, 2020 by Anglian

[polybear]

I feel a challenge for Tony's next Loco Clinic coming on...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254513678441?_trksid=p11021.c100851.m5053&_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170803121420%26meid%3Dd911df15a5cb4a189730301673603ae0%26pid%3D100851%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dnone%26b%3D1%26sd%3D392691066916%26itm%3D254513678441%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D11021&ul_noapp=true

[Tony Wright]

Taking pity on old, unfinished models, I've now completed (build-wise) the 3F which Trevor Page gave to me at the Stafford Show. 

 

It was given to his dad years ago, and it then came to him. The frames were originally to EM Gauge.

 

 

On first inspection, I thought it was scratch-built (there is some evidence of scratch-building), but I now think it's an MPD kit from donkey's years ago. 

 

I've built a South Eastern Finecast 4F chassis for it, and it runs very well. Final patch-painting and weathering await...........

 

Anyone want a 3F chassis in EM Gauge?

[MarkC]

12 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Taking pity on old, unfinished models, I've now completed (build-wise) the 3F which Trevor Page gave to me at the Stafford Show. 

 

It was given to his dad years ago, and it then came to him. The frames were originally to EM Gauge.

 

 

On first inspection, I thought it was scratch-built (there is some evidence of scratch-building), but I now think it's an MPD kit from donkey's years ago. 

 

I've built a South Eastern Finecast 4F chassis for it, and it runs very well. Final patch-painting and weathering await...........

 

Anyone want a 3F chassis in EM Gauge?

It certainly looks like an MPD kit, Tony.

 

You have a PM

 

Cheers

Mark

[TrevorP1]

26 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Taking pity on old, unfinished models, I've now completed (build-wise) the 3F which Trevor Page gave to me at the Stafford Show. 

 

It was given to his dad years ago, and it then came to him. The frames were originally to EM Gauge.

 

 

On first inspection, I thought it was scratch-built (there is some evidence of scratch-building), but I now think it's an MPD kit from donkey's years ago. 

 

I've built a South Eastern Finecast 4F chassis for it, and it runs very well. Final patch-painting and weathering await...........

 

Anyone want a 3F chassis in EM Gauge?

 

That's wonderful to see Tony. That poor thing has been in a box for 30 odd years, endured six house moves and has even survived a flood. All being well I'll be able to take up your kind invitation for an LB visit in the summer and what a day it would be to see the 3F running as well. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

23 minutes ago, TrevorP1 said:

 

That's wonderful to see Tony. That poor thing has been in a box for 30 odd years, endured six house moves and has even survived a flood. All being well I'll be able to take up your kind invitation for an LB visit in the summer and what a day it would be to see the 3F running as well. 

 

 

Thanks for giving it to me in the first place, Trevor.

 

I'll probably finish it tomorrow, and post further pictures.

 

What I'll also do is sell the Wrenn box it came in. It's in good condition, and I'm told collectors like them, though why anyone would want to pay for bits of cardboard from 40-odd years ago beats me! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Theakerr]

On 17/02/2020 at 15:50, micklner said:

What make ? Old or new decals ? In water too long ?

Water base..  Dont think they were in the water too long because they slid off in a nice controlled manner and I did do some more using the same companies decals with no problem.  Transfers were nearly new.  Microsol is old.   I have used the same companies decals with microsol before and no problem but they were relatively big decals like loco cab numbers and BR Totems.  I prefer not to name company publicly because they were very responsive to another issue but can send you a PM.  Further, I have to suspect it was me but for the life of me I dont know what.  Very strange and all I can do is advise people to test a small length.   This weekend I have few 'scrap' pieces around that I prepared for other test purposes, I will see if I can replicate the problem.

[petrovich]

23 hours ago, 2750Papyrus said:

 

Thanks very much for posting those images, just what I wanted to know. 

 

What a substantial structure this goods shed was, for a comparatively small wayside station.  It is pity it was demolished having initially survived the closure, but at least we can preserve it in our models.

 

I am afraid my detailing won't include the broken windows and the boxes and sacks, etc, stacked round the building but what character they would add.

Now they are what you call cavity walls!  Was that a standard thickness on that part of the network?

 

Regards

 

Peter

[thegreenhowards]

On 14/02/2020 at 21:26, Tony Wright said:

Regarding the colour of LNER teak, or brown, I don't really feel qualified to give an accurate description.

 

 

I've shown this shot before, having acquired this lovely pair of ex-NE carriages last October. They were built/painted by Dave Scott, using D&S kits. They look convincing to me.

 

Speaking of convincing, or a lack of it, the MR/M&GNR bit of LB is much more flexible in the timescale depicted than the main line - really Nationalisation until the line's closure 11 years later.

 

I can thus run trains in LNER colours.........

 

 

 

 

Like this one......

 

My antipathy towards Hornby's Gresleys is well known, particularly in the BR colours of carmine/cream or maroon. I simply won't tolerate them in those guises, because of their shortcomings. 

 

However, faced with my making of some LNER Gresley gangwayed stock for the little trainset, I acquired a couple of Hornby teaks at Doncaster last weekend for only £18.00 each, second-hand. For some reason, they don't look quite so wrong in teak, apart from the 'plastic' finish. 

 

So, using a mixture of dry-brushing, and a wash of satin varnish, let down with some matt black/matt brown, all applied with a sable, I think these look much more natural, especially after the repainting of the shiny white roofs - can you think of anything less-realistic on a working steam railway? The solebars are still in teak paint, just more heavily-weathered.

 

Acceptable as 'layout coaches'? I hope so.

 

The non-gangwayed BT is an ancient Kirk kit, painted light brown, then weathered. The loco is a renumbered/weathered Hornby D16/3. 

 

I must stop this. I'm becoming too much of an RTR user! 

 

 

 

 

Tony,

 

I’ve been meaning to respond to this since Friday, but I’ve been away and time/ WiFi have not been available simultaneously to manage one. The thread has moved on since then, but I hope you’ll forgive me pulling it back.

 

Your ‘RTR’ train certainly looks good, but it got me thinking about post war liveries so I did a bit of research. I’m surprised by the choice of engine. My understanding is that only the two royal D16s were painted green after the war and indeed in 62618’s case, Yeadon states that it was in wartime black until Oct 1949, by which time it would have presumably not have had ‘LNER’ on the tender. I know Yeadon is not perfect, but he normally gets this sort of thing right. Also as one of the Royal engines, I would have thought it was an unlikely loco for a local train on the M&GN. You might be better off with one of Hornby’s excellent black version, but even then I suspect you’d need to add tablet catching apparatus for the M&GN.

 

With regard to the Hornby Gresleys, I’ve always taken the view that their ‘tubbiness’ is made up for by all the other detail and the finish which is better than I could achieve. I’d rather spend my effort in producing models of the 100+ diagrams which Hornby don’t produce (especially catering and end vestibule stock) rather than the six which they do.  This is especially true in teak and yours look good - the weathering certainly makes them look less like toy trains.

 

However, again I have a question about the livery. My understanding is that the use of ‘3’s on doors and (most) lining ended pre (or during?) the war. If I’m right, then while you could get away with ‘LNER’ on the sides up until the early ‘50s, the doors need some attention and the lining needs weathering away. Personally I prefer to use the limited editions of British Railways liveried teak Gresleys which Hornby did a few years ago with no ‘LNER’ and ‘E’ numbers as seen here on my layout. Gresley Jn.

 

 

These were available initially as part of train packs (Kingfisher and Olympics) and they then did the FK,RB and SLF separately. They are available second hand from time to time.

 

I know that I need lamps for the loco (this has since been rectified) and having seen yours, the coaches and loco will now enter the weathering shop.

 

I send this email in the spirit of learning and I’ll be genuinely interested in the responses as I have a few vehicles with ‘3’s on the doors which I don’t run while waiting attention.

 

Andy

 

PS I love the D&S stock. I’m really hoping that Danny will reintroduce some of his NE carriages as several came south.