Jesse Sim Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 2 hours ago, Tony Wright said: It's with Geoff for painting. It's in the queue. Regards, Tony. I thought so, but no harm in asking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 2 hours ago, zr2498 said: GAM coach modification. This is a follow up to earlier posts re the rewheeling of GAM coaches. Here is a link to a post describing the procedure. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/40088-golden-age/page/4/ Tony / Juke I would appreciate your opinion re the GAM A4's and the apparent lack of tractive force Under 12 c) of the post Dave Good afternoon Dave, As you know I have a GAM A4, and it easily hauls the ten-car Elizabethan (though with more slipping on starting than by kit-built equivalents, though not nearly as much as a Hornby RTR one). I don't use it on anything else but the 'Lizzie', because, being Haymarket-allocated, it would only be seen on that train at LB (unless running-in from Donny). I do recall some years ago at the Glasgow Show, GAM's proprietor (who still has several books of mine which I loaned him years ago!) trying to run a rake of his Pullman cars on a layout, and none of his A4s would shift it (not a good advert). One of my kit-built A1s managed it, with ease. Thus, my experience of GAM's OO locos is limited. That said, I'm very happy with my A4 (though it cost me more to have it supplied without the DCC stuff and nonsense). Even so, I'm still puzzled why I bought it! Regards, Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chamby Posted April 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2020 2 hours ago, gordon s said: I have yet to drive an electric car, but the lack of engine noise will take a lot of getting used to. Unless you are doing long distance motorway driving, it’s all-electric every time for me now. I bought one last summer and won’t go back to an ICE. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 30 minutes ago, Chamby said: Unless you are doing long distance motorway driving, it’s all-electric every time for me now. I bought one last summer and won’t go back to an ICE. I agree. Prefer the drive and convince of refueling at home, plus the smaller fuel bill. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Manxcat Posted April 12, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 12, 2020 6 hours ago, Tony Wright said: As requested yesterday, some shots of my coupling system... It really is very simple, consisting of nothing more than some PCB sleeper strip, .45mm brass or nickel silver wire, 30Amp fusewire, some solder and some superglue. Pence really, in the grand scheme of things. Because the couplings pull off the headstocks, not the bogies (just like the real things) it's much more stable, with fewer chances of snatching and derailments. It works just as well in propulsion, never comes uncoupled, but is (obviously) non-automatic. I find it perfect for fixed rakes. For fixed rakes (not operating into termini), don't forget the rear end. Few things destroy 'realism' in my view as much as a gross, tension-lock coupling sticking out beneath the headstock of the last vehicle in a train (or underneath the front buffer beam of a loco). Archie, I hope these pictures help. Regards, Tony. Thank you Tony. That is much appreciated. Archie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
copleyhill007 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 As promised to Tony, a photo of nearly complete London Road Models J6 representing one of the two shedded at Copley Hill in Leeds. Of the 12 years I've had it (and thanks Tony) it spent 10 and a half years in its box with the lid coming off many times! The last 18 months have been a learning journey with many ups and downs (as I'm not in the same class as Tony and the awful instructions and illustrations that would hamper anyone). The kit itself is excellent. Attached is a photo of it in 1962 setting. 18 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 40 minutes ago, copleyhill007 said: As promised to Tony, a photo of nearly complete London Road Models J6 representing one of the two shedded at Copley Hill in Leeds. Of the 12 years I've had it (and thanks Tony) it spent 10 and a half years in its box with the lid coming off many times! The last 18 months have been a learning journey with many ups and downs (as I'm not in the same class as Tony and the awful instructions and illustrations that would hamper anyone). The kit itself is excellent. Attached is a photo of it in 1962 setting. Thanks Dave, Is it really that long ago that I bought if for you as a retirement present? It looks deliciously-grubby. Well done! Regards, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted April 12, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 12, 2020 Austerities always seem popular; thus, the pictures today show Bytham's trio of rather grubby ones (among others). This is a DJH one I built/painted/weathered. The only things clean about it are the slidebars, 'polished' through use. It's passing one of the Hammett/Geary DJH examples it's now my privilege to own. I got rid of the characteristic Mr. Geary squeak (sorry Tony). I also replaced the front numberplate with one of Ian Wilson's Pacific examples (the original cut-transfer one had started to fall apart). 90146 must have only had a very short train, or it was going very fast because it's no longer visible as 90299 now passes the other LB Hammett/Geary DJH Austerity clanking (not squeaking) northwards on an unfitted freight. I also replaced the front numberplate on 90040. The weathering on this pair is the most-natural I've seen. 90040 attends to some shunting in Bytham's yard. One pictorial advantage of not having a 'flat earth' layout is the opportunity to get shots like this. I suppose Bachmann's RTR WD is a good model, though it's much too clean. I don't have any. The late Dave Shakespeare made a very good job of detailing/weathering a Bachmann WD. This one now belongs to another friend. I've lost count of the number of DJH Austerities I've built for customers (they were very popular before the RTR example appeared). I built one for one of my friends in the Stoke Summit crew, making it as VULCAN. 25 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff west Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 17 hours ago, Jesse Sim said: I always enjoy sitting on the other side of the layout when I’m over, it feels different, a different perspective, plus I’m young enough to crawl under a dozen times in a session (cause I pop out for a smoke). Next time I’m over Tony, with your permission, I’d like to have a go at operating the Midland/Great Northern. I'm with Jesse on that one. I really enjoy operating from the other side, even when I operate both up and down trains (slightly confusing for my small brain). I'm also still young enough (just) to crawl under the layout. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 2 minutes ago, geoff west said: I'm with Jesse on that one. I really enjoy operating from the other side, even when I operate both up and down trains (slightly confusing for my small brain). I'm also still young enough (just) to crawl under the layout. It's one of the many things missed at the moment, Geoff; the opportunity to operate the railway with very good friends. Still, compared with the suffering being endured by many right now, not being able to 'play' trains is insignificant. Anyway, here's to the next time. Regards, Tony. 1 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff west Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 6 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: It's one of the many things missed at the moment, Geoff; the opportunity to operate the railway with very good friends. Still, compared with the suffering being endured by many right now, not being able to 'play' trains is insignificant. Anyway, here's to the next time. Regards, Tony. Very true Tony, I couldn't agree more. Regards' Geoff. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 45609 Posted April 12, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted April 12, 2020 2 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Austerities always seem popular.... I've lost count of the number of DJH Austerities I've built for customers (they were very popular before the RTR example appeared). So it seems Tony. A nice collection of Dub-dees you have there. There is one on my work bench now getting quite close to being finished. A few jobs still to do on the chassis and a variety of pipe work. I’m not looking forward to the AWS conduit and brackets along the edge of the running plate. I’ve also fabricated a couple of items to “lift” the finished model that aren’t in the basic DJH kit. This loco will be 90012 in early 1960s condition. Smoke box door handle Vacuum pipe grease trap Cheers...Morgan 22 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted April 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2020 10 hours ago, gordon s said: You really can't beat the sound of a V8. There's something about that bauble noise that really is music to a petrol head. I still drive a V8, but feel under pressure from the change in society in terms of climate change and electric cars. Daft really as I only do around 6,000 miles a year and the roads are choc a block or cameras snap you if you move more than a few mph over the limit. As soon I hit a 30 or 40 limit, on goes the cruise control as it's so easy to creep over the limit when your eyes are on the road all the time. I said this would be my last car, but I suspect a VW Golf or similar may be just round the corner. I have yet to drive an electric car, but the lack of engine noise will take a lot of getting used to. I hadn't appreciated the fact about glass windows in the cab. It took a while, but found one in Edward Talbot's book on the Standards....90025 with glass. It was the only one mind you.... My car was one of the last homes for the Rover V8 when in petrol form. I have the Diesel though. A bit more economical, similar performance (really!) and also quite a good engine note. The Rover V8 was really at the limit of its development and Tony did well to get 11 years trouble free. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted April 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2020 Well it seems that Tamaya primer may be pretty good. Just sprayed the grey on 4 aircons today (started a DMU but the paint sploged then the rain started after I had cleaned it,) Will give my full opinion after the blue. My aircons are all Airfix based with Shawplan frames and glazing, and correctly turned out as D E or F as required, I even have a 2C from Airfix under way (for 4 years waiting on frames Brian!). I like to get usage from older basically accurate models and when you need different types in one set better to convert than use Airfix 2D, Hornby 2E, Lima 2F. I do need to take a mould of a Lima aircon fan for a 2F conversion to do soon. I do have one mix set of LIma 2B C and Triang 2A and the differences are a bit annoying but too far gone to use just one make unfortunately. Of interest the older Triang model is more accurate. Lima are a bit too high. That set though is half Lima 2BC, couple Triang 2A, Triang RMB and Triang based BG, behind a Mainline Peak. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 8 hours ago, MJI said: Well it seems that Tamaya primer may be pretty good. Just sprayed the grey on 4 aircons today (started a DMU but the paint sploged then the rain started after I had cleaned it,) Will give my full opinion after the blue. My aircons are all Airfix based with Shawplan frames and glazing, and correctly turned out as D E or F as required, I even have a 2C from Airfix under way (for 4 years waiting on frames Brian!). I like to get usage from older basically accurate models and when you need different types in one set better to convert than use Airfix 2D, Hornby 2E, Lima 2F. I do need to take a mould of a Lima aircon fan for a 2F conversion to do soon. I do have one mix set of LIma 2B C and Triang 2A and the differences are a bit annoying but too far gone to use just one make unfortunately. Of interest the older Triang model is more accurate. Lima are a bit too high. That set though is half Lima 2BC, couple Triang 2A, Triang RMB and Triang based BG, behind a Mainline Peak. Good morning Martin, Please forgive my ignorance of post-steam nomenclature, but I assume 'aircorns' mean air-conditioned carriages? I believe everything from Mk.2 Ds onward was air-conditioned? The 2Ds, I believe, were introduced on ECML services in the early-'70s. When Stoke Summit ran in diesel-mode, this set was used, which was made-up by my elder son (many years ago when he was still at school) using modified Airfix and Mainline products. The Deltic is modified Lima. Regards, Tony. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 On the last page, I commented on a non-working trap point on LB. Well, just to prove that WMRC could make working trap points, here's the one at the end of the Down slow at the top of Stoke Summit. There's even an Austerity waiting for the road after the passage of the Pullman. Point rodding was present on the layout as well, but there really should be a facing-point lock. Another Austerity we ran was this modified Bachmann example. It was immediately christened 'The Flying T*rd'! Take a bow, Richard I. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg1 Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 On 12/04/2020 at 09:58, St Enodoc said: Am I alone in not wanting to watch a replay of any sporting event of which I already know the result? I feel exactly the same way about watching The World At War. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Its so nice to see 90040 and 90299 still in service, and how could anyone forget the flying turd! Regards Tony 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 5 minutes ago, dibateg said: Its so nice to see 90040 and 90299 still in service, and how could anyone forget the flying turd! Regards Tony Alas the flying turd is laid up at the moment as it’s mechanism is playing up. It was meant to represent one of the really filthy ones, which it did in spades. It was a real no holds barred weathering project. Youthful enthusiasm, hopefully my weathering has become more restrained, it certainly has on all the pregrouping stock. In Tony’s eyes the pregrouping stock needs far more weathering. richard ps. The predictive text offered me realistic when I was typing restrained, perhaps it wants to be more honest in its appraisals than I am. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Tony Wright said: On the last page, I commented on a non-working trap point on LB. Well, just to prove that WMRC could make working trap points, here's the one at the end of the Down slow at the top of Stoke Summit. There's even an Austerity waiting for the road after the passage of the Pullman. Point rodding was present on the layout as well, but there really should be a facing-point lock. Another Austerity we ran was this modified Bachmann example. It was immediately christened 'The Flying T*rd'! Take a bow, Richard I. That picture has pride of place in my eldest ( or should it be elder as the others are the same age) son’s room. It is his only picture and he got a free choice of what he put up on his walls. I hope he has it up for inspiration from the whole scene rather than the loco itself. richard 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted April 13, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Good morning Martin, Please forgive my ignorance of post-steam nomenclature, but I assume 'aircorns' mean air-conditioned carriages? I believe everything from Mk.2 Ds onward was air-conditioned? The 2Ds, I believe, were introduced on ECML services in the early-'70s. When Stoke Summit ran in diesel-mode, this set was used, which was made-up by my elder son (many years ago when he was still at school) using modified Airfix and Mainline products. The Deltic is modified Lima. Regards, Tony. Hello Tony Aircons are the mark 2D E F stock. 2D as you know were the mainstay of the ECML behind Deltics and early ETH 47s. 2E the altered the interiors and TSO toilet window layouts, these were mainly Midland region and Western Region, door bumpers wre removed, and door windows shrunk after the first few. 2F they changed the aircon gear on most (single fan the most obvious) and the roof panel, rest of body same as late 2E, were mainly west coast main line. Then of course BR went to the Mark 3 (HST) and 3A (WCML). Of the pre aircon Mark 2s the 2 and 2A are very similar, obvious differences being brakes and gangway doors, in the middle of a train just add air brake reservior and correct number will do. 2B and 2C were longer bodies with no centre doors B were WR, C MR but some WR. Early C look very similar to B later C look like D with normal windows. For an East Coast layout detailed Airfixs are essential, 2E and 2F are just wrong. West coast Bachmann 2F are great but they have a mix of 2E 2F and 3A so choose your victims and detail away. I have a few Lima 2F and they look OK on their own if you ignore the glazing (can be fixed easily) Airfix look fine as well, but together very jarring. Airfix turnunder is not good and Lima is too tall in body side. Until someone invents a universal Mark 2 body reprofiler better to convert to the other type than mix brands. That said I wil be mixing a Triang 2 BFK into an Airfix based set I reckon a pair of Airfix bogies and fixing the Airfix turnunder combined with Shawplan bits and spraying same batch will merge it in well, All this since as a teenager I noticed the differences, and now I am in 50s. Edited April 13, 2020 by MJI 1 1 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 (edited) Having got 4 midland 5 planks ready for the paint shop this morning I decided to do theinterior for the P4 hopper that has been part built for longer than I can remember. Just need to decide which is the best glue to fix it all in place. Edited April 13, 2020 by Paul Cram 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted April 13, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2020 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Paul Cram said: Having got 4 midland 5 planks ready for the paint shop this morning I decided to do theinterior for the P4 hopper that has been part built for longer than I can remember. Just need to decide which is the best glue to fix it all in place. I presume that's a white metal body with plastic sheets. I would use Thixofix as long as it doesn't attack the plastic but only after trying it on some scrap first. Otherwise something like UHU. The advantage of Thixofix over Evostick is that you have more time to adjust the fit. Jamie Edited April 13, 2020 by jamie92208 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Unfotunately I don't have any thixofix so it is Evostick, Epoxy or superglue of which the modern stuff seems to breach trade descriptions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted April 13, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2020 58 minutes ago, Paul Cram said: Unfotunately I don't have any thixofix so it is Evostick, Epoxy or superglue of which the modern stuff seems to breach trade descriptions. I would test some evostick on a piece of scrap then. To apply it I would spread it on the White metal, let it go off then press the plastic on it it should stick OK. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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