Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

A couple of shots illustrating how I make sure soldered-on nuts are secure......

 

 

Inside the smokebox of the new SEF A3. I've effectively 'puddled' low-melt solder around this pre-tinned brass nut. The nut was held in place by a cocktail stick poked through the chimney orifice whilst soldering took place. 

 

A white metal piece is provided in the kit, complete with 8BA 'footprint, but I find this method easier and just as secure. 

 

 

And a nut secured on the tender for holding the chassis. There is a little recess here provided, which also helps.

 

These will never come loose in service. 

 

Changing the subject.......................

 

One of the things I give to visitors to LB (not that there have been many of late) is a little A5 folded brochure, which explains all about the layout. The front cover picture of this was taken some time ago, with much still to complete. 

 

Ian Wilson is redesigning it (for me to hand out in better times) and one of the following three shots will be chosen for the cover........

 

 

 

 

I'll let him decide. They all show the completed point rodding and the proper girder bridge. 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[juke]

A while back I bought a S/H DJH Peppercorn A2 to use with my Golden Age Coaches. At that time I was still working at getting the coaches to perform so set this aside.

 

I got it out recently and it didn't run far before coming to a dead stop. The piston rod has been pulled out by a bent connecting rod, the picture shows it well enough to see, hopefully.

What I'm wondering is whether I would be likely to be able to get the bent connecting rod straightened well enough to be acceptable or if DJH sell individual parts, as the piston rod is missing on the other side!

Other thought is just to get a new set for each side.

I'd appreciate some thoughts on this as I haven't yet built up the gear on the new loco so it's a learning experience.

 

 

[Paul Cram]

5 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

My main lockdown project is nearing completion, so I thought I’d share it here. It’s a 52F models A5/1 which will become 69814, the one which was allocated to KX in 1959/60 for trials hauling sleeper ECS (amongst other things). 

 

 

 

I have a few questions for the experts on here:

1. I’m not sure what to do about wheels. The kit is designed for Gibsons but I didn’t fancy quartering them having never used them but heard it’s difficult. So at the moment it’s sitting on a motley selection from my spares box. The Romford drivers are the correct size, but have strange round ends of the spokes (near the rim) so don’t look right while the bogie and rear axle wheels are slightly too small. I looked at the markets catalogue and their A5 kit lists the wrong size of driver (5’2” instead of 5’7”) and is very expensive. I’m tempted by Scalelink  wheels which SE Finecast list - has anyone tried them? I’d be grateful for any suggestions.

2. The coupling rods are designed to have a rivet in the middle joint. I don’t have a way of riveting apart from pressing it in a vice, but I think I can make that work. However, I’m not sure whether I should aim to make them solid or leave them very or slightly floppy (the chassis is compensated).

 

Overall, the kit has taken about 4 weeks - probably around 30-40 hours in total. I found the diagrammatic instructions superb and it was a joy to put together, if an order of magnitude more fiddly than anything I’ve tried before. The fit of parts was superb. NB There are a couple of bits missing  which ‘pinged’ across the room when fitting and I’m hoping will turn up (the Smokebox door handles and a hose). 

 

Any comments welcome.

 

Andy

For the rivets I used a centre punch tapping lightly with a hammer until closed enough noy to come apart

[thegreenhowards]

5 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

If it's compensated you will have to joint the rods.

Thanks Michael, to be clear, should I leave the rods quite loose after riveting or make it tight enough that there is just some minimal residual movement?

[thegreenhowards]

Of the three pictures for the front cover, the first is the clear winner for me. It shows the sweep of the point rodding, the girder bridge and The train in a classic 3/4 front view. I hope Ian chooses that one!

[Andy Reichert]

7 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Thanks Michael, to be clear, should I leave the rods quite loose after riveting or make it tight enough that there is just some minimal residual movement?

 

I would hope it would freely pivot, but not be loose in any other axes.

 

Andy

[4069]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

That signal would look so much better if the white stripe were just a little further towards the post. It's a tiny thing, but the proportions of a signal arm can be made or marred by the position of the stripe- it's a bit like the 'face' of a loco, which looks wrong if the hinge straps are not in exactly the right place. From the end of the arm, there should be 12" of  red, then an 8" wide white stripe.

 

 

 

[Arun Sharma]

4 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

The team I was with were fitting roll bars to the Land Rovers so when PIRA exploded a mine the Rover didn't roll over and squash the guys inside. 

 

One of the best days was when a crew came back with another Rover to be modified and they personally thanked us for when they were blown up the roll bars worked. 

When we went to Southern Rhodesia in 1979 with the Commonwealth Monitoring Force we were given mine-proofed Landrovers with steel belly plates, 4 inch diameter roll bars and angled blast deflection plates welded to the sides of the vehicles. Outside air temps were around 34degC so quite comfortable. The vehicles were originally designed by the Army for use in election monitoring in Namibia but Rhodesia came along first. Amazing what kit you could get when the Foreign Office [not MOD] is paying for it!

[Theakerr]

3 hours ago, juke said:

A while back I bought a S/H DJH Peppercorn A2 to use with my Golden Age Coaches. At that time I was still working at getting the coaches to perform so set this aside.

 

I got it out recently and it didn't run far before coming to a dead stop. The piston rod has been pulled out by a bent connecting rod, the picture shows it well enough to see, hopefully.

What I'm wondering is whether I would be likely to be able to get the bent connecting rod straightened well enough to be acceptable or if DJH sell individual parts, as the piston rod is missing on the other side!

Other thought is just to get a new set for each side.

I'd appreciate some thoughts on this as I haven't yet built up the gear on the new loco so it's a learning experience.

 

 

When you do 'rebuild' the valve gear watch out for the length of the piston rod.  When I built my A2, I cut the first piston rod very close to the casting mark that I thought  was a manufacturers mark to  represent the end of the rod.  It was very fortunate that I had left a little extra because even with that little extra the rod was very close to coming out of the piston.  If the person who built this did cut it at the marking it will almost certainly  have to be replaced.   Re straightening, I have fixed several RTR by visually straightening and running a bit of solder at the back to strengthen the bent bit.

Edited May 7, 2020 by Theakerr
English

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, juke said:

A while back I bought a S/H DJH Peppercorn A2 to use with my Golden Age Coaches. At that time I was still working at getting the coaches to perform so set this aside.

 

I got it out recently and it didn't run far before coming to a dead stop. The piston rod has been pulled out by a bent connecting rod, the picture shows it well enough to see, hopefully.

What I'm wondering is whether I would be likely to be able to get the bent connecting rod straightened well enough to be acceptable or if DJH sell individual parts, as the piston rod is missing on the other side!

Other thought is just to get a new set for each side.

I'd appreciate some thoughts on this as I haven't yet built up the gear on the new loco so it's a learning experience.

 

 

Good evening Syd,

 

'The piston rod has been pulled out by a bent connecting rod,' 

 

I'm afraid you've got this statement the wrong way round. It's the piston rod coming out of its hole in the cylinder and then jamming against the end of the cylinder which has bent the connecting rod. This is a common fault with DJH piston rods/crossheads, where the piston rods end up too short. They're attached to their moulding sprues at the piston end, and it's all to easy to lop them off too short (how do I know this?). 

 

DJH do not usually sell spare parts. That being the case, you can either buy a motion set for an A2 from Comet or South Eastern Finecast. Both are suitable, and both are available. 

 

By un-soldering the eccentric crank at the big end, the connecting rod can be taken off the crankpin and then straightened. When you refix the return crank, make sure it leans forward. The way it's set at the moment, it'll impart little or no movement to the eccentric rod. 

 

If you can, I'd also move the cabside worksplate. It's way too far forwards. 

 

I hope this helps. 

 

The loco looks generally well-made, though it does display a common fault in DJH A1/A2 constructions - that of not having the top of the firebox sloping down towards the cab front. If anything, this one goes the opposite way. 

 

I hope the following picture illustrates what I mean.

 

 

DJH/Wright/Rathbone.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

[Theakerr]

My practice when soldering nuts in what will eventually become in-accessible places is to do the solder thing,  scratch it a bit and then slap a good epoxy round the entire thing.  Just defense in depth.

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, 4069 said:

 

Over to Mr Nicholson......................

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

[Manxcat]

Tony,

 

Where would your house be in relation to LB station on the layout if it were long enough? I presume the house was there in the mid-fifties.

Thanks.

 

Archie

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:

Thanks Michael, to be clear, should I leave the rods quite loose after riveting or make it tight enough that there is just some minimal residual movement?

I wouldn't rivet the rods, Andy,

 

I'd use a brass lace pin and solder. Just as you made the V4's valve gear.

 

Why? I cannot rivet. I've tried, but either end up with the components jammed-up or with way too much slop.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

Just now, Manxcat said:

Tony,

 

Where would your house be in relation to LB station on the layout if it were long enough? I presume the house was there in the mid-fifties.

Thanks.

 

Archie

Our house wasn't built until the mid-'70s Archie. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Theakerr]

Re the A2 piston rod.  When I first realized just how close the rod was to being undersized and thought it might actually be too short I had mentally devised a fix based on other bloopers over the years.  As I would have had nothing to lose I would have cut the rod right at the 'ring' do-dad just before the slide casting,    Drilled a small hole into the end, enlarged somewhat it to take a thicker steel wire.  A small hole is better for centering.  Superglue said wire into the hole as close to the centre as possible using a fairly viscous SG.  Take a piece of brass tube making sure it was the right size and diameter either as made or by sanding down in my trusty Dremel,  Now comes the tricky part.  If Lady Luck is on my side, the inside diameter of the tube is close to the piece of wire and I can use a good quality epoxy to fasten the tube to the pin.   Note sometimes Lady Luck can be charmed by inserting a smaller tube inside the larger one so the wire pin will fit.  Sounds a bit fiddly and I suppose it is but really not that difficult and in this case should work very well because there will be almost no load at the joint.

[thegreenhowards]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

I wouldn't rivet the rods, Andy,

 

I'd use a brass lace pin and solder. Just as you made the V4's valve gear.

 

Why? I cannot rivet. I've tried, but either end up with the components jammed-up or with way too much slop.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

That’s plan B, thanks for the suggestion!

 

As for the cab roof you’re right it does lean. I hadn’t spotted that until the photos, but the camera is cruel and now it’s fairly obvious. Sadly correcting it would mean dismantling most of the body as the cab is built first. So I think I may have to live with it. Oh for a simple white metal construction!

 

 

[Willie Whizz]

21 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Definitely. I use a 10 inch second-cut flat file for making point blades. If I had a 12-incher I'd use that (ooer missus).

 

Hmmm.  Oh well, here goes:  As the old joke says:  I've got a twelve-incher - but I don't use it as a rule ...

 

(Sorry - I'll get me coat ...)

[Jesse Sim]

7 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

A couple of shots illustrating how I make sure soldered-on nuts are secure......

 

 

Inside the smokebox of the new SEF A3. I've effectively 'puddled' low-melt solder around this pre-tinned brass nut. The nut was held in place by a cocktail stick poked through the chimney orifice whilst soldering took place. 

 

A white metal piece is provided in the kit, complete with 8BA 'footprint, but I find this method easier and just as secure. 

 

 

And a nut secured on the tender for holding the chassis. There is a little recess here provided, which also helps.

 

These will never come loose in service. 

 

Changing the subject.......................

 

One of the things I give to visitors to LB (not that there have been many of late) is a little A5 folded brochure, which explains all about the layout. The front cover picture of this was taken some time ago, with much still to complete. 

 

Ian Wilson is redesigning it (for me to hand out in better times) and one of the following three shots will be chosen for the cover........

 

 

 

 

I'll let him decide. They all show the completed point rodding and the proper girder bridge. 

 

 

Regarding the pictures for the front of your brochure, I think the first would be nice on the front. Isn’t it based on a real photo? 

[Michael Edge]

11 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Thanks Michael, to be clear, should I leave the rods quite loose after riveting or make it tight enough that there is just some minimal residual movement?

It has to pivot freely.

[t-b-g]

Of the three photos, I would go for the first one too. Photographs taken from where a photographer might have taken a photo "back in the day" always look more natural to me. The first one could have been taken from the top of the embankment. The others are from a viewpoint in mid air over the tracks and are not viewing angles that are familiar to people who have looked at prototype photos, so hey don't seem quite as "natural" to my eyes.   

[Tony Wright]

12 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

Of the three photos, I would go for the first one too. Photographs taken from where a photographer might have taken a photo "back in the day" always look more natural to me. The first one could have been taken from the top of the embankment. The others are from a viewpoint in mid air over the tracks and are not viewing angles that are familiar to people who have looked at prototype photos, so hey don't seem quite as "natural" to my eyes.   

Good morning Tony,

 

All three pictures were taken with the camera perched on top of Marsh Bridge's parapet (thank goodness Bytham's structures are substantial). The size of the camera means that the viewpoint is higher than that of a person's, but I think they're natural enough (if the photographer stood on steps - which several did). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

10 hours ago, Theakerr said:

Re the A2 piston rod.  When I first realized just how close the rod was to being undersized and thought it might actually be too short I had mentally devised a fix based on other bloopers over the years.  As I would have had nothing to lose I would have cut the rod right at the 'ring' do-dad just before the slide casting,    Drilled a small hole into the end, enlarged somewhat it to take a thicker steel wire.  A small hole is better for centering.  Superglue said wire into the hole as close to the centre as possible using a fairly viscous SG.  Take a piece of brass tube making sure it was the right size and diameter either as made or by sanding down in my trusty Dremel,  Now comes the tricky part.  If Lady Luck is on my side, the inside diameter of the tube is close to the piece of wire and I can use a good quality epoxy to fasten the tube to the pin.   Note sometimes Lady Luck can be charmed by inserting a smaller tube inside the larger one so the wire pin will fit.  Sounds a bit fiddly and I suppose it is but really not that difficult and in this case should work very well because there will be almost no load at the joint.

 

My 'cure' for a too-short piston rod is to solder a small piece of brass tubing where the rod goes into the cylinder, extending rearwards: the diameter of the tubing being easily able to accommodate the piston rod. It's held in place with a cocktail stick whilst soldering takes place, after being pre-tinned. 

 

DJH provide little cast 'collars' to fix in place, but these are occasionally too short. 

 

Forewarned is forearmed, of course, and now I don't cut the piston rod/crossheads off at the moulding mark, but further along the sprue. It's usually easier to shorten a component than to extend it. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited May 8, 2020 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[t-b-g]

19 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Tony,

 

All three pictures were taken with the camera perched on top of Marsh Bridge's parapet (thank goodness Bytham's structures are substantial). The size of the camera means that the viewpoint is higher than that of a person's, but I think they're natural enough (if the photographer stood on steps - which several did). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Good morning to you too Tony.

 

I would still say that Photo 1 is a much more natural viewing angle and shows the layout off better. It is very much a personal choice, as many of these things have to be but the other two are a bit too "head on" to the train for me and I can't help but think that if I had been standing there with my camera, I would have moved a bit to the side to get more of the side of the loco and the train in. The first one does that very nicely. Whether or not there was a bridge there it still looks as if the other two were taken from hovering over the tracks. My dad took a good number of rather poor quality railway photos in the 40s, 50s and 60s. Technically poor due to the quality of the light, camera and film but I don't think he ever stood pretty much over an oncoming train and took a head on shot. The side of a loco is the interesting bit and he wanted to include that.

 

The front 3/4 view may have become a bit of a cliche but it was used so many times because it works well visually. 

Edited May 8, 2020 by t-b-g
Spelling!

[Tony Wright]

6 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Regarding the pictures for the front of your brochure, I think the first would be nice on the front. Isn’t it based on a real photo? 

Good morning Jesse,

 

It is based on a prototype photograph (courtesy of the Willoughby Arms; which captions the photograph as being taken in 1953. This can't be right, and your question for the day is why not?). 

 

 

This, in fact, is the Up 'Tees-Tyne Pullman' ('The Hadrian Bar' can be made out as the fifth car). 

 

 

And my interpretation; this time the Up 'Yorkshire Pullman'.

 

The camera and physics mean I cannot get exactly the same angle, but I think it's near enough.

 

This, of course, to me, is the 'acid test' for railway modelling. That of comparing a picture of the real thing with a picture of the model; something impossible to do with 'made-up' layouts. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.